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Centerfire Rifles - Manually Operated Lever action, bolt action or other non gas operated centerfire rifles.

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  #41  
Old 03-25-2019, 4:31 PM
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Thanks Randall.

bought this to mount the vise onto.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-x-8-Steel...72.m2749.l2649

what do you all think? will/should this work?
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  #42  
Old 03-25-2019, 5:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDRH View Post
...

I was gonna mount it to a wooden cutting board and then clamp it down to my workbench, for easy removal...anyone know if this may be an issue? Issues with flex?



Maybe flex, maybe not. Just be sure and film it the first time you use it so at least you have a submission for Rob Dyrdek's show.
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  #43  
Old 03-25-2019, 6:10 PM
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Ahaha . Ended up buying the hitch mount, hope it's strong enough.

I have no idea who Rob Dyrdek is
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  #44  
Old 03-25-2019, 6:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
All you need is a piece of flat bar with two tapped holes that will accept the cap screws that fit through your vise's baseplate.
I have the same vice I got on pre-order. It is nice especially with the QR dove tail mounted to my bench and another to use at the range. But You can'y really use flat bar stock you need square tubbing or channel to clear the nuts than mount the QR dovetail.
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  #45  
Old 03-25-2019, 6:49 PM
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I made a barrel vise from a piece of firewood. I tried pine but it wouldn't clamp tight enough. Almond wood is harder and did the trick. I know it's crude, but it worked great for installing a new barrel on my M1 Garand. I already had the harbor Freight 20 ton press and the large Crescent wrench so my total outlay for the vise was zero! I had to rent a pull through finish reamer and a set of headspace gauges to complete the job.







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  #46  
Old 03-25-2019, 6:57 PM
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Default Tools for barrel install

Here it is going thru 3/4 ply plus a metal layer under the wood work surface


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  #47  
Old 03-25-2019, 8:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver160651 View Post
I have the same vice I got on pre-order. It is nice especially with the QR dove tail mounted to my bench and another to use at the range. But You can'y really use flat bar stock you need square tubbing or channel to clear the nuts than mount the QR dovetail.
Quote:
Originally Posted by diver160651 View Post
Here it is going thru 3/4 ply plus a metal layer under the wood work surface


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Thanks Diver. I think I can stack one or two 2x4 and bolt it to the hitch.

How thick is your mounting surface total? 3/4" + metal?


Nice setup StanCo
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  #48  
Old 03-25-2019, 9:18 PM
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3/4” deck is used for mounting rails into, so my various presses, can slide on and off. The rails are the gold things.

Below that deck is a 12 gauge steel plate that sits on 1/2” ply. Those make up the total thickness.

The main reason other than make things strong, is that it dampens vibration for my scale.




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  #49  
Old 03-25-2019, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver160651 View Post
You can'y really use flat bar stock you need square tubbing or channel to clear the nuts than mount the QR dovetail.
You don't need nuts when you have tapped holes.
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  #50  
Old 03-26-2019, 4:23 AM
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DDRH
My hitch looks like yours only it's homemade.
Instead of the steel baseplate mine is a chunk of aluminum.
After work I will try and take a picture.
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  #51  
Old 03-26-2019, 7:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
You don't need nuts when you have tapped holes.
We'll thats smart - although I don't think it is going to work for the guys cutting board idea.. lol..

What thickness of plate did you use and do you remember the tap size? I would not mind saving some space over my Channel
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  #52  
Old 03-26-2019, 10:51 AM
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Thanks Lynn!

ahaha, as for the cutting boards, i was gonna use 2 of them, stacked, roughly 1" thick each, bamboo. Drill and bolt the base down on it and use a few table clamps. My workbench is roughly 2" thick. i think the cutting boards can handle it...but the clamps...not too sure. Either way, i have no way of finding out unless i change barrels, and that won't be for a long time.

the setup works fine for my reloading press, but that's much less force/energy.

Question:
If i were to drill and perhaps tap a 2" steel hitch, what type of bit is recommended?

I have bits for wood and a couple cheap Sears power drills, but steel is tough.
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  #53  
Old 03-26-2019, 2:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver160651 View Post
We'll thats smart - although I don't think it is going to work for the guys cutting board idea.. lol..

What thickness of plate did you use and do you remember the tap size? I would not mind saving some space over my Channel
3/8" is thick enough.
Use the same thread as your bolts have.
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  #54  
Old 03-27-2019, 11:44 AM
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@Diver, @Randall, @Lynn for the SAC barrel vise, for an M24/M40 profile, the shank is 1.200" but it's tapered, do you still use the 1.200" insert?

looking at M24/M40 profiles, doesn't look like there's a "Flat" shank, looks tapered all the way to the muzzle.

Is the insert tapered too?

Bought some carbide bits for drilling steel.

Last edited by DDRH; 03-27-2019 at 11:46 AM..
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  #55  
Old 03-27-2019, 8:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDRH View Post
@Diver, @Randall, @Lynn for the SAC barrel vise, for an M24/M40 profile, the shank is 1.200" but it's tapered, do you still use the 1.200" insert?

looking at M24/M40 profiles, doesn't look like there's a "Flat" shank, looks tapered all the way to the muzzle.

Is the insert tapered too?
You will want a tapered bushing to match the taper of your barrel.
I would think SAC should sell one if they are selling the vises.

Most people with lathes just make their own.
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  #56  
Old 03-28-2019, 7:27 PM
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Sac sells most of the common sizes and tapers. I have the entire kit but really only use 2 for my riles..


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  #57  
Old 03-29-2019, 11:57 AM
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Thanks Fellas,

check the SAC website. they mention the M40 (and M24?) bbl profile uses the 1.200" straight taper bushing.
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  #58  
Old 04-04-2019, 8:03 PM
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So I got the barrel vise...I thought it came with mounting bolts. My bolt/screw/nut/thread knowledge is limited.

Can you guys recommend what type of bolt and nuts to use? Washer size?

@Diver
Did you use washers for the mounting bolts (top side of vise mount)? What I mean is, are there washers under that bolt inside the mounting holes?

If so what recommended size?

Links to bolts, nuts, washers would be great thanks!
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  #59  
Old 04-04-2019, 8:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDRH View Post
So I got the barrel vise...I thought it came with mounting bolts. My bolt/screw/nut/thread knowledge is limited.

Can you guys recommend what type of bolt and nuts to use? Washer size?

Links to bolts, nuts, washers would be great thanks!
What's the hole size in the plate?
Buy the largest bolt that will fit.

The plate might be setup for allen socket cap screws.
In that case, you would want to get allen socket head cap screws.

No matter what bolts/washers/nuts you need, www.mcmaster.com has it.
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  #60  
Old 04-05-2019, 4:59 PM
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Default Tools for barrel install

Quote:
Originally Posted by DDRH View Post
So I got the barrel vise...I thought it came with mounting bolts. My bolt/screw/nut/thread knowledge is limited.



Can you guys recommend what type of bolt and nuts to use? Washer size?



@Diver

Did you use washers for the mounting bolts (top side of vise mount)? What I mean is, are there washers under that bolt inside the mounting holes?



If so what recommended size?



Links to bolts, nuts, washers would be great thanks!


I don’t have the size off the top of my head, but it is the same size as the clamping bolt.

You need to buy the length that works for your mounting surface and yes put a large washer below the mounting surface only, between the mounting surface’s button and the nut.

The cap head (Allen) need to be below the surface of the QR


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  #61  
Old 04-07-2019, 4:09 PM
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Attachment 793929
Quote:
Originally Posted by diver160651 View Post
I don’t have the size off the top of my head, but it is the same size as the clamping bolt.

You need to buy the length that works for your mounting surface and yes put a large washer below the mounting surface only, between the mounting surface’s button and the nut.

The cap head (Allen) need to be below the surface of the QR


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Thanks @Randall!

@LynnJr
I was able to return the plated trailer hitch and will be getting the straight 2" bar. I bought some Carbide bits:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...KIKX0DER&psc=1


@Diver
You mean washer on the nut side? So no washer needed on the bolt side?

Attached photo is the bolt and nuts from McMaster, correct bolt and nuts?

One more question:
Which washer do I choose?

There are so many on McMaster, I don't know which one is correct and what inside diameter?

Thanks again!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot_20190407-171136.jpg (16.2 KB, 11 views)

Last edited by DDRH; 04-07-2019 at 4:12 PM..
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  #62  
Old 04-07-2019, 4:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDRH View Post
Thanks @Randall!

@LynnJr
I was able to return the plated trailer hitch and will be getting the straight 2" bar. I bought some Carbide bits:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...KIKX0DER&psc=1

Attached photo is the bolt and nuts from McMaster, correct bolt and nuts?

One more question:
Which washer do I choose?

There are so many on McMaster, I don't know which one is correct and what inside diameter?
Photo is unreadable.
If you need a washer, use the same size washer as the bolt.
Bolts will be smaller than nominal and washers will be larger than nominal.
So for example, say you need 3/8" bolts.
You would use 3/8" washers.

I would drill and tap that steel bar and not run washers or a nut.
Simply tighten the bolts into the steel bar.
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  #63  
Old 04-07-2019, 6:05 PM
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Default Tools for barrel install

Quote:
Originally Posted by DDRH View Post
Attachment 793929



Thanks @Randall!



@LynnJr

I was able to return the plated trailer hitch and will be getting the straight 2" bar. I bought some Carbide bits:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00...KIKX0DER&psc=1





@Diver

You mean washer on the nut side? So no washer needed on the bolt side?



Attached photo is the bolt and nuts from McMaster, correct bolt and nuts?



One more question:

Which washer do I choose?



There are so many on McMaster, I don't know which one is correct and what inside diameter?



Thanks again!




No washers under the cap head and dovetail~ two shown, first there is not enough width and the extra height would not let the vice slide in cleanly.

The cap heads are the same size and thread pitch as the clamping bolt that cam with your vice.



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  #64  
Old 04-07-2019, 6:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver160651 View Post
The cap heads are the same size and thread pitch as the clamping bolt that cam with your vice.
He does not seem to be able to measure.
What exact size are the screws?
3/8"?
1/2"?
Coarse or fine thread?
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  #65  
Old 04-07-2019, 8:56 PM
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threads:
1/2"-20
-Partial thread
-3.5" length

3/8" allen/hex drive
-3/4" head diameter
-1/2" head height

Don't know if that photos any better
Attached Images
File Type: jpg McMaster_Bolts-Nuts.jpg (16.8 KB, 16 views)
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  #66  
Old 04-08-2019, 7:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDRH View Post
threads:
1/2"-20
-Partial thread
-3.5" length

3/8" allen/hex drive
-3/4" head diameter
-1/2" head height

Don't know if that photos any better
Why not skip the nuts all together and just drill and tap the steel bar and then use 1" long bolts?
Seems so much simpler and then you don't need such long bolts or nuts on the bottom or to drill holes all the way through 2" of bar.
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  #67  
Old 04-08-2019, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Why not skip the nuts all together and just drill and tap the steel bar and then use 1" long bolts?
Seems so much simpler and then you don't need such long bolts or nuts on the bottom or to drill holes all the way through 2" of bar.
I thought about it, but i needed some longer bolts any way.

i actually got this trailer hitch mount:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The other one was solid steel, woulda been a helluva time drilling that.

Bought the bolts and nuts. Description says the flange nuts didn't need washers.

think i got all the tools needed (except the action wrench - brownells - for a factory 700 receiver and barrel.). But this will be enough for me to switch PVA barrels for my Nucleus and Archimedes action.
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  #68  
Old 04-08-2019, 3:55 PM
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Can you guys recommend some anti-seize or high temp lube (automotive) grease for the threads?

for my ARs, used some high temp. automotive grease on the bbl extensions. can i use the same one? it's red in color. forgot what brand, bough a tube from Walmart years back.
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Old 04-08-2019, 4:30 PM
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DDRH
Mount it the right wayr the barrel will hit the bumper.
Don't ask how I know that.
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  #70  
Old 04-08-2019, 6:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnJr View Post
DDRH
Mount it the right wayr the barrel will hit the bumper.
Don't ask how I know that.
AhahaLoL , now I have to ask. What happened?

I hope the 11" hitch adaptor is long enough.
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Old 04-08-2019, 7:29 PM
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That is plenty long. Make sure you mount it so the barrel is parallel to the bumper.

I mounted a press to my hitch as well and you would be shocked how much you can move a truck up and down full length sizing brass
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  #72  
Old 04-11-2019, 11:53 AM
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Hears a pic when I did mine.



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  #73  
Old 04-11-2019, 12:49 PM
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Nice setup 2shotjoe.

Anyone use Lucas Red N' Tacky grease with anti seize?

https://m.lowes.com/pd/lucas-oil-pro...BoCVGAQAvD_BwE

I've used it for a few AR15 upper assembly. Barrel extension and on threads on the receiver.

Any issues using this for bolt rifles?
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