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  #1  
Old 09-10-2018, 7:02 PM
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Default Very minor stock repair - how to go about it

I'm hoping this one will be fairly straightforward. I know a number of y'all will likely tell me to just leave it as-is, it's really not a big deal. I know it isn't, but it's something that really aggravates my OCD at the most random of times.
It woke me up in the middle of the night nagging at me last night, which is why I've decided to do something about it.

https://imgur.com/a/q490Oj2

It's a really minor ding in the stock, in the ball of a Yugo 98/48's pseudo pistol grip (tl;dr a captured/abandoned and repurposed K98) I wasn't present when it happened, I loaned the rifle to a family member, and she returned it to me with this new ding. Unfortunately, it's actual material missing, so it's not something that I'll be able to use steam/heat to draw out.

What I've come here to ask for is suggestions on the best way to go about filling and best color-matching whatever I might repair it with. I've searched through Google, but not been super happy with what I've found. It's not a collectors piece, it's a shooter through and through, so it doesn't have to be perfectly matched/expertly repaired, I just want to put my OCD at ease with "close enough". I've considered replacing the stock as a whole (yes, it really bothers my OCD that much), but would prefer to seek cheaper alternatives first. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 09-10-2018, 7:24 PM
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Sand down and refinish.
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Old 09-10-2018, 7:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Sand down and refinish.
Wouldn't that mean changing the entire geometry of the stock itself?

The ding is minor, but it spans the depth of three layers of the laminate.
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Old 09-10-2018, 7:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SSGTSemperFI View Post
Wouldn't that mean changing the entire geometry of the stock itself?

The ding is minor, but it spans the depth of three layers of the laminate.
Yep.
And after it's all refinished, you would not be able to tell.
Anything that you fill it with is going to stick out like a sore thumb after refinishing.
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  #5  
Old 09-10-2018, 7:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Yep.
And after it's all refinished, you would not be able to tell.
Anything that you fill it with is going to stick out like a sore thumb after refinishing.
I'll get to figurin' the best way to go about it then!
Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2018, 7:45 PM
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The problem is much more about your OCD than it is about the actual gouge.
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Old 09-10-2018, 8:14 PM
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Sand and refinish really is best option, I think you could get away with adding filler, but you'd still have to refinish to blend. You could manually color, line in grain etc if you really wanted.

If you're careful you should be able to fix it without dimensionally making that big a difference. Use a good fine finish rasp like the Nicholson (49 I think) it'll be done so fast you'll be amazed, don't sand too find. Use tru oil which takes a hell of a long time to set right IMO but is easy to setup and pretty matte.

Good luck.

Red
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Old 09-10-2018, 8:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
The problem is much more about your OCD than it is about the actual gouge.
It is.
It's not necessarily as you'd expect though. It's only about very specific things. I've tried to let it go, but every once in a while it creeps back into my mind (this happened a solid year or so previous). Most everything else like this will bother me for a week or so, and then I'll be over it.

I guess what bothers me most is that even though she's rearsenaled and not completely in her original configuration, she made it through the war being mostly matched. Obviously it'd be next to impossible to discover her full history, but she was built (or rebuilt) on a pre-1942 base as she has small elements that are serialized (cleaning rod, firing pin, screw heads, ETC). The only things that don't match are the extractor claw, and safety flag. Flash forward 70 years and I loan her to someone and get it back with more superficial damage than she's ever seen. I feel it a disservice to an inanimate object, which has to be as absurd as it sounds.
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Old 09-10-2018, 8:23 PM
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Dings can be raised with steam... it looks like that was a scrape and wood was removed.

How nuts do you want to be with the repair?

Midway USA has several videos on fixing stock damage on you tube
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  #10  
Old 09-10-2018, 8:31 PM
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Originally Posted by hermosabeach View Post
Dings can be raised with steam... it looks like that was a scrape and wood was removed.

How nuts do you want to be with the repair?

Midway USA has several videos on fixing stock damage on you tube
I referred to it as a ding as it ultimately is relatively minor (it causes no structural weak points/instability,/necessary repairs for operation), but it is indeed material that has been removed from several layers of laminate (three full layers, part of a fourth).

I ran through the gamut of Larry/Midway's videos that I could find on the subject, and the best I could find when it applied to using a filler like I had originally planned was using shellac to fill in knots, ergo, it wasn't going to work.

I'm going to do some poking around and see if I can find the plan that would best fit a "good-enough" fix. As I said, it doesn't need to be professionally done to the point of being indistinguishable. She's not a collector piece. I just need to set my OCD at ease.

Last edited by SSGTSemperFI; 09-10-2018 at 8:34 PM..
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  #11  
Old 09-11-2018, 12:39 AM
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Put a bit of oil on it with a Q tip so it's not as visible and call it a day.

Thank me later
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Old 09-11-2018, 1:20 AM
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I would probably do it in stages so you have nothing to lose.

First steam out the dents/gouges as best you can and lightly sand.... and then fill them with an acrylic wood filler, some of these products come in different colors to aid in matching..... and then again lightly sand.... and then use a finish like Dem-bart checkering oil (dries fast, looks nice, not too shiny).

If you hate it, then as per Randall....re-contour and refinish.
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Old 09-11-2018, 6:22 AM
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That ding is there for life. And its a Yugo.

Hit it with the shellac stick and rub some grime in it before it cools and it will blend with the other character marks and look like it was done during an arsenal overhaul before you were born. They didn't take a lot of time with these, and if you want it to look right neither should you.

Last edited by kendog4570; 09-16-2018 at 9:43 AM..
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Old 09-11-2018, 7:13 AM
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Shellac stick.

Or see if Rick Borecky is still doing work. He can make it disappear.

Last edited by God Bless America; 09-11-2018 at 7:19 AM..
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  #15  
Old 09-12-2018, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saki302 View Post
Put a bit of oil on it with a Q tip so it's not as visible and call it a day.

Thank me later
This is what I originally did (BLO), Sadly, the wood appears to not want to hold it. I've done it a number of times now (the times I've taken her out - 5-6 since it happened) and she seems to dry up within a few days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtenenhaus View Post
I would probably do it in stages so you have nothing to lose.

First steam out the dents/gouges as best you can and lightly sand.... and then fill them with an acrylic wood filler, some of these products come in different colors to aid in matching..... and then again lightly sand.... and then use a finish like Dem-bart checkering oil (dries fast, looks nice, not too shiny).

If you hate it, then as per Randall....re-contour and refinish.
I may end up trying this, all depends on what I boil down to liking best come this weekend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kendog4570 View Post
That ding is there for life. And its a Yugo.

Hit it with the shellac and rub some grime in it before it cools and it will blend with the other character marks and look like it was done during an arsenal overhaul before you were born. They didn't take a lot of time with these, and if you want it to look right neither should you.
This is definitely where my whole "good enough" comes in. The stock has a few much smaller repair points that were filled with some type of filler, notable under the barrel band, and just forward of the bolt handle (when closed), as well as my "not a collector" stance comes from. She's a shooter, has some character and age. Bluing is in terrible condition (honestly though, that's one of the things I love most about it, honest wear). Out of all my milsurps though, she groups the best consistently. Tack driver for an 80-year-old (ish) battle rifle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by God Bless America View Post
Shellac stick.

Or see if Rick Borecky is still doing work. He can make it disappear.
The only reason I've been hesitant to use shellac is that so far as I can tell, it's going to stick out like a sore thumb. I've still got some lying around that I used when I refinished my 91/30, and it's definitely much more of a cherry red relative to what I believe to be layers of linseed darkened by use and time that the 98/48 has.
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Old 09-13-2018, 8:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSGTSemperFI View Post
I referred to it as a ding as it ultimately is relatively minor (it causes no structural weak points/instability,/necessary repairs for operation), but it is indeed material that has been removed from several layers of laminate (three full layers, part of a fourth).

I ran through the gamut of Larry/Midway's videos that I could find on the subject, and the best I could find when it applied to using a filler like I had originally planned was using shellac to fill in knots, ergo, it wasn't going to work.

I'm going to do some poking around and see if I can find the plan that would best fit a "good-enough" fix. As I said, it doesn't need to be professionally done to the point of being indistinguishable. She's not a collector piece. I just need to set my OCD at ease.
You must be fun at party's LOL JK. It's a gun. Unless it's a collectors piece or something you plan on selling it's a tool. Who cares. Tools get dings and scratches. Go shoot the crap out of it. Beat it up. After it looks like crap in a few years then refinish it. It's like crying over a piece of dust that lands on your car after a car wash.
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Old 09-13-2018, 8:41 AM
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I've had good luck filling small gouges with a mixture of wood glue and sawdust. Make some sawdust from the stock, taken from behind the butt plate or some other internal wood surface. Mix it with wood glue, fill and let set.

You'll still have to finish sand and blend, though. With that particular gouge, I'd just do as was earlier suggested - sand it out, blend and refinish.
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Old 09-14-2018, 1:16 PM
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If you use tung oil or Tru oil it will help make it less visible.

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Old 09-16-2018, 9:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSGTSemperFI View Post
The only reason I've been hesitant to use shellac is that so far as I can tell, it's going to stick out like a sore thumb. I've still got some lying around that I used when I refinished my 91/30, and it's definitely much more of a cherry red relative to what I believe to be layers of linseed darkened by use and time that the 98/48 has.
That shellac stick is made to hide dings and gouges. Not refinish 91/30s.

I bet it blends right in. If not, it looks like amber shellac will. I have some left over if you want to come by and see. I am in the 951.
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:45 PM
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Considering the location and depth of the damage, I wouldn't try to fill it. Glue mixtures or wood fillers will likely crumble, dry or vibrate out under recoil or through handling the rifle.

The only decent filler is Brownell's Accu-glass, and it will stand-out badly with a partial or full refinishing job.

I would not refinish the stock. I would (maybe) carefully sand or carefully dish-out the damage to remove any splinters or split ends. Then I'd purposely use a lighter stain and dab the damage with the stain until it blended in.
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:14 PM
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That one step polyurethane with stain would probably work.

Clean the hole well first with acetone or rubbing alcohol.

Apply with a Q-tip.

-Dave
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Old 09-21-2018, 1:12 AM
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Meh. Leave it. It adds character.

JMHO
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