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  #1  
Old 05-09-2019, 1:41 PM
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Default Chamber is damaging brass and bullet

BCA says this is normal for all new barrels and to shoot more to wear the sharp lug corners. Problem is i reload and Beowulf brass isn't cheap. These cuts are pushing into the case walls and if i continued to use them like this i feel like a cut in the same area could puncture the case. Not to mention the carving of my bullet from the feed ramp.

Could anyone give me some tips; tools needed, videos, instruction on how to round/polish this chamber?




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Old 05-09-2019, 1:55 PM
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wow I would think a Dremel with a soft polishing rubber stone could touch all the sharp areas but then may messup feeding or headspace?
ask Randall
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Old 05-09-2019, 2:26 PM
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Get a dremel, an arbor, and a handful of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-3...EaAibqEALw_wcB.

Use mother's aluminum wheel polish and go over all the edges/corners/points lightly.
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Old 05-09-2019, 2:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Get a dremel, an arbor, and a handful of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-3...EaAibqEALw_wcB.

Use mother's aluminum wheel polish and go over all the edges/corners/points lightly.
thanks man! ill swing by HD tomorrow. Its just the pointy corners of the lugs and the back end of the feed ramp im targeting right? i'll try to look for a before/after pic so i know how far i should go and how much.
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Old 05-09-2019, 3:00 PM
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i've heard these work well. No doubt Randall will know best. You might also want to check with Brownells.

https://www.brownells.com/UserDocs/M...nformation.pdf
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Old 05-09-2019, 3:18 PM
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^^flexhones are good for uniform cylindrical cavities. For lug edges and flute edges....not so much. Can't really be used for "pinpoint" small area polishing. And the flexible wound wire shaft on those things would make it difficult to control over non-uniform surfaces.
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Old 05-09-2019, 3:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mtenenhaus View Post
i've heard these work well. No doubt Randall will know best. You might also want to check with Brownells.

https://www.brownells.com/UserDocs/M...nformation.pdf
i dont see one for the beo or for a .500,
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Old 05-09-2019, 4:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskyBusiness View Post
i dont see one for the beo or for a .500,
Just as well, it's the wrong tool for the job. Those are for rough chambers...

You need a rubber polishing point such as a Cratex tip. They have mild abrasive mixed in the rubber. The Home Depot page has some:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-C...-203362605-_-N

Cratex polishing points:
https://www.cratex.com/tools-fits-dremel

Last edited by smoothy8500; 05-09-2019 at 4:07 PM..
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Old 05-09-2019, 4:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
^^flexhones are good for uniform cylindrical cavities. For lug edges and flute edges....not so much. Can't really be used for "pinpoint" small area polishing. And the flexible wound wire shaft on those things would make it difficult to control over non-uniform surfaces.
Would a jewlers file work or should i just stick to a dremel stone/polish
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Old 05-09-2019, 4:19 PM
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I use jewellers files. I deburr all my new AR barrels when new.
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Old 05-09-2019, 4:19 PM
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A jeweler's file would work if you have a light touch. If you have one, try it lightly to round those sharp points on the lugs and the front edge of the feed ramp maybe.

Just remember to go slow, it's easier to take off a little more material (slowly) than it is to put a little more material back on.
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Old 05-09-2019, 4:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskyBusiness View Post
Would a jewlers file work or should i just stick to a dremel stone/polish
A very light pass with a fine 1/2 round file to knock off the sharp edge, followed by polishing. Or wrap #320 wet/dry on a small rod or dowel instead of the file. You only need one or two passes.
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Old 05-09-2019, 4:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
A jeweler's file would work if you have a light touch. If you have one, try it lightly to round those sharp points on the lugs and the front edge of the feed ramp maybe.

Just remember to go slow, it's easier to take off a little more material (slowly) than it is to put a little more material back on.
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A very light pass with a fine 1/2 round file to knock off the sharp edge, followed by polishing. Or wrap #320 wet/dry on a small rod or dowel instead of the file. You only need one or two passes.
yeah i already have these so ill try this out very slowly. i also have wet/dry paper up to 3000 to clean it up.
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Old 05-09-2019, 4:54 PM
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Referencing your first pic of the chamber, I would start on those three "half-lugs that intersect the feed ramp. I. E. the lugs at 5:00, 6:00, and 7:00 in your photo. Lightly break the points and sharp edges there to start.
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Old 05-09-2019, 5:32 PM
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just because you asked, i did a quick search and Amazon has it in stock for Prime in both 400 and 800 grit: https://www.amazon.com/Research-0741...y&sr=8-1-fkmr2


Midwayusa offers it as well (but it's not in stock currently) for .50 BMG caliber...

Flex-Hone Rifle Chamber Hone 50 BMG 12" 800 Grit
Product #: 159673 | Shipping Weight: 0.243 lbs
Flex-Hone Rifle Chamber Hone 50 BMG 12" 800 Grit
$37.99
Est. In-Stock: Overdue

I don't have sofbak and smoothy's experience...i just did the search for fun in case it might help

Last edited by mtenenhaus; 05-09-2019 at 5:37 PM..
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Old 05-09-2019, 8:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce381 View Post
wow I would think a Dremel with a soft polishing rubber stone
could touch all the sharp areas but then may messup feeding or headspace?
ask Randall
No feeding or headspace difficulty. Bolt lugs engage FRONT of barrel lugs. Breaking and polishing sharp rear edges of barrel lugs would serve to improve feeding.

Underlined...........I believe you are describing "cratex" points.
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Old 05-10-2019, 5:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Referencing your first pic of the chamber, I would start on those three "half-lugs that intersect the feed ramp. I. E. the lugs at 5:00, 6:00, and 7:00 in your photo. Lightly break the points and sharp edges there to start.
for a reference and to be more specific lets call the top lug at 12:00 #1 and clockwise the next #2 and so forth with a total of 8 lugs. You're saying to start with lugs 4, 5 and 6? The train track marks are coming from in between 2-3 and 7-8. However i will start on lug 5 which is the feed ramp because deforming the bullet is the top priority needed to be fixed.
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Old 05-10-2019, 8:05 AM
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Yes, lugs 4,5, and 6. Sorry for my confusion between 8 and 12 "stations".

What has me scratching my head now is this: "The train track marks are coming from in between 2-3 and 7-8."

I'm having trouble visualizing how the case wall could get high enough (or mis-aligned) to contact those lugs.
Does the contact occur during extraction?
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Old 05-10-2019, 9:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Yes, lugs 4,5, and 6. Sorry for my confusion between 8 and 12 "stations".

What has me scratching my head now is this: "The train track marks are coming from in between 2-3 and 7-8."

I'm having trouble visualizing how the case wall could get high enough (or mis-aligned) to contact those lugs.
Does the contact occur during extraction?
well when i manually push a empty case down the chamber and close the bolt, i only get burs on the bottom of the brass. i then slowly pull the bolt back until ejection and see no train tracks. The marks appear when feeding from a magazine and the bolt closes on a dummy cartridge. I would assume its happening on the feeding since that motion is a lot faster and more violent. Im guessing it rides up the ramp and hits a vertical angle until hitting the top lugs and corrects itself into the barrel. i know its those lugs because they match the distance from where the lead was shaved off so if you follow the lead shaved to either marks it points to the top lugs not the bottom ones. The brass shavings left on the lugs backs this up.

edit: okay after inspecting the feeding very slowly i see why 4 and 6 are the ones causing the tracks not the upper ones, my apologies. I still dont know why the brass shavings are more heavily shown on the top ones though. Well i got done using a jewelry file for about 10min and saw very minor improvement to the ramp cutting the head. I think i will need a dremel, but because its a side charging upper, my ar receiver block wont house it so ill have trouble pulling off the barrel nut and reassembling it if i cant use a vice to hold it down. Ill shop for a dremel attachment that is flexible if not how much do you think a local gunsmith would charge for this service?
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:27 PM
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Ok-that clears my confusion on where those marks were being made.

WRT to how to deal with the side-charger, costs etc. etc. -it's getting out of my league on both. You might pm ar15barrels (aka Randall) on this site and ask him. He forgets more in his sleep about these ar's than I will hope to know.....
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Old 05-10-2019, 6:03 PM
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Okay thanks to everyone, picked up a dremel from HD and came with a kit of various tips one was that felt mentioned. Funny thing the pieces were all used up lol but it didnt matter i was still able to polish the chamber and now theres barely any notice of lead scraping on the ramp.

Also want to mention, i called a local gunsmith before hitting up HD and the dude would not give me an estimate on this job. Kept insisting i come in and wouldn't take the picture i provided here. Then said he cant say because he doesnt know what handguard i might have, how much material he would need to take off, assembly/reassembly etc. I told the guy... listen its just a quick polish job Ive seen it done in 5min on YT by guys that know what their doing. He still wouldn't give me an estimate high or low so i just hung up and said **** it ill do it myself. He missed out on easy money, i didnt even have to take the receiver apart.
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Old 05-11-2019, 3:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskyBusiness View Post
BCA says this is normal for all new barrels and to shoot more to wear the sharp lug corners. Problem is i reload and Beowulf brass isn't cheap. These cuts are pushing into the case walls and if i continued to use them like this i feel like a cut in the same area could puncture the case. Not to mention the carving of my bullet from the feed ramp.

Could anyone give me some tips; tools needed, videos, instruction on how to round/polish this chamber?

Go at them with a cratex wheel that's the same shape as your bullets.
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Old 05-11-2019, 3:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Get a dremel, an arbor, and a handful of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-3...EaAibqEALw_wcB.

Use mother's aluminum wheel polish and go over all the edges/corners/points lightly.
That is not aggressive enough.
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Old 05-11-2019, 3:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiskyBusiness View Post
for a reference and to be more specific lets call the top lug at 12:00 #1 and clockwise the next #2 and so forth with a total of 8 lugs. You're saying to start with lugs 4, 5 and 6? The train track marks are coming from in between 2-3 and 7-8. However i will start on lug 5 which is the feed ramp because deforming the bullet is the top priority needed to be fixed.
The track marks are happening during EXTRACTION and are from the locking surfaces of the locking lugs, NOT from the feedramp sides of the lugs as circled in your picture.
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Old 05-11-2019, 3:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
What has me scratching my head now is this: "The train track marks are coming from in between 2-3 and 7-8."

I'm having trouble visualizing how the case wall could get high enough (or mis-aligned) to contact those lugs.
Does the contact occur during extraction?
The case has the ejector pushing it to the side and slides against the locking side of the lugs during extraction until such time that the case clears the back of the barrel extension and ejection port and springs out of the ejection port.
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Old 05-11-2019, 4:02 PM
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I know... That's why I asked if the markings occured during extraction. With a complete round being extracted (as in his photo) I would have expected the bullet would have held the case wall off the locking lug surfaces. Additional confusion came from his description of marks coming from contact with lug 8.
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Old 05-11-2019, 4:05 PM
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I know... That's why I asked if the markings occured during extraction.
With a complete round being extracted (as in his photo) I would have expected the bullet would have held the case wall off the locking lug surfaces.
You apparently didn't know when you made the original post.
Unfortunately the bullet is smaller in diameter than the case so the case is what contacts the lugs.
The bullet will be floating free within the chamber if you did not choose to send it down the barrel via powder/primer.
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Old 05-11-2019, 4:26 PM
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"Unfortunately the bullet is smaller in diameter than the case so the case is what contacts the lugs."

I don't believe that's the situation with a beowolf cartidge/bullet. And I don't see how the marks would be that far down the length of the case-he was showing an un-fired round with the marks.

But
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Old 05-11-2019, 5:29 PM
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Quote:
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"Unfortunately the bullet is smaller in diameter than the case so the case is what contacts the lugs."

I don't believe that's the situation with a beowolf cartidge/bullet.
Think about what you are saying.
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Old 06-01-2019, 1:12 AM
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forgot to update this, had some help from castboolits guys as well. I used a dremel and those felt tips recommended. AR15barrels was correct, it was happening during extraction. The bullet itself was getting carved up on the feed ramp, who knows if that was during extraction or while hitting the ramp. Anyways its polished now and there is no more deep scratches on the brass or the bullet. thanks all
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