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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles. |
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#1
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Hello.
I plan on getting a 556 AR-15 100% lower from an FFL. My goal is to build one that is as cost effective (inexpensive, but decent) as possible. It will also be featureless so I can use detachable magazines with it. Below is a list of things I would greatly appreciate feedback with. Feel free to answer any or all, thank you! Do you have any recommendations for a completed full upper assembly? Preferably with bolt and charging handle included. Since a flash hider is no go for featureless, a muzzle brake is good, right? If not, would it be better to just get all the upper parts seperately? Since there is such a huge variety of triggers, what is the best I can get for my money? Or is a standard military spec trigger okay? Any spring/part kits so I can fully assemble the lower? Lastly, any decent stock options and non-pistol grip recommendations? All help is greatly appreciated! |
#2
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What will the rifle be for/what is its purpose?
Aero Lower and parts kit. Large mbt2s or ALG QMS or ACT (2 stage vs 1 stage). Sparrow dynamics grip or strike industries mega grip fin (preference). Any stock you want + strike industries stock stop. |
#3
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Palmetto State Armory has lots of complete uppers and rifle kits to complete your lower. It fits the bill of "inexpensive but decent"
Muzzle brakes are good. A complete upper is ready to go and easier if you dont have the few tools required If your lower is a complete, you wont need springs. Look at Sparrow Dynamics for a featureless grip, the best featureless option out there imo. Magpul stocks are good, pick your flavor and pin it so it wont collapse, or just get the non-collapsible magpulstock. make sure to keep us updated! |
#4
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Any lower build kit will work. For your reference, "lower parts kit" + "stock kit" = "lower build kit" LPK is the trigger parts, mag release, all the misc parts that go in the lower receiver. Stock kit is all the parts for the stock, like buffer tube, buffer spring, retaining plate. A lower build kit + a stripped receiver+ your elbow grease = a complete lower. Mated with a complete upper, that will get you a fully functional AR (minus magazines and ammo) Quote:
There's even more non-grip options. Fins (either home made or bought), Strike Industries fin grips, Thordsen again, HERA again, Magpul MIAD gen2+Exile Machine fin, Sparrow grips, and a whole bunch more. You didn't ask this, but it's a common confusion. The length of the gas system on the upper i.e. "carbine length" "midlength" "rifle length" is independent of the "length" of the buffer tube on the lower. In other words, it's possible to have a 16" carbine length upper mated to a rifle length (that M-16 style rifle stock) lower, and conversely you can mate an upper with a 20" barrel which has a rifle length gas system with a M-4 carbine style collapsible stock lower. As long as all the upper parts are consistent within the upper, and the lower parts are consistent within the lower, the upper and lower will work with each other. [Isn't the AR system great?]
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--------------------- "There is no "best." If there was, everyone here would own that one, and no other." - DSB Last edited by kcheung2; 06-23-2022 at 12:56 AM.. |
#5
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"Find out just what the people will submit to and you have found out the exact amount of injustice and wrong which will be imposed upon them and these will continue until they are resisted with either words or blows, or with both. The limits of tyrants are prescribed by the endurance of those whom they oppress." -- Frederick Douglass -- “I didn’t know I was a slave until I found out I couldn’t do the things I wanted.” – Frederick Douglass -- |
#7
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Depends on how much "build" you want to do and are you welling to spend for some specialized tools for the build.
Simplest build would be buy the complete assembled lower from local FFL then order a complete upper from any reputable on-line dealer. Then replace the pistol grip with any assortment of featureless variety and make sure the stock is fixed. As for cost, unless you wait for special sales and buy parts from multiple on-line vendors, there will not be much savings buying complete upper/lower vs assembling your own. And during sales, you can get some really good deal on complete uppers that's cheaper than what you can source parts for. The benefit of buying individual parts to assemble is you get to select parts you want and enjoy the labor putting it together. |
#8
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Note: Riflegear has their excellent stripped lowers in stock. Always buy two at once to avoid wait times and extra DROS costs. Same with lower parts kit. Two at once.
Buy them online and drop in for DROS on their appointment AP. I personally like Thordo’s stocks and the .223/5.56 is a mild cartridge so I never put a brake on my ARs. Just a thread protector. You’re mileage may vary… ![]() Some ideas above are spot on. Start investing in ammo. Be a hoarder. Hahaha. Bob
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May the Bridges I burn light the way. Life Is Not About Waiting For The Storm To Pass - Its About Learning To Dance In The Rain. Fewer people are killed with all rifles each year (323 in 2011) than with shotguns (356), hammers and clubs (496), and hands and feet (728). |
#9
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Most cost effective or rather cheapest would be psa with a fin on the grip and have the stock blocked then remove the flash hider for a thread protector
Last edited by Angrysnarf; 06-23-2022 at 1:22 PM.. |
#10
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VG6 Gamma = GOOD |
#11
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Hey guys. I appreciate the feedback so far!
My intention with this build is to make a AR15 that is good from close to mid range, with good enough reliability if SHTF scenario. I plan to add an EOTECH for rapid target acquisition. Will mostly be used for target shooting, and kept for home defense when not in use. Not including the 100% naked lower and target sight, I'd like to ideally spend around $500 or less for all the other components. Will consider increasing budget if benefits justify the cost. |
#13
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This ^
|| Or Radical/Durkin ( If it's your first/only AR ) I have not read a lot of complains about Anderson upper , mostly lower that are out-of-spec. Lowest brand you should go with is PSA, but most will recommend to start with Aero If you don't mind front sight block & plastic hand guard https://ar15discounts.com/products/a...id-length-fde/ If you want full rail free float https://www.schuylerarmsco.com/june-...dguard-3472296 These do not come with BCG/CH (and some other brand as well) BCH/CH = another $100-$150 You can remove the A2 flash hider and replace with this https://www.schuylerarmsco.com/june-...ma-9mm-1373657 Or this https://www.sparrowdynamics.com/Barr...R-p/btp-15.htm If you can wait until July 4th (or holidays), there will probably be better deals. |
#14
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What I did was get a PSA kit, pinned the stock, got a linear sound forward muzzle brake and MIAD grip and a backfin for it. Have also done same thing except used Strike Industries simple featureless finned grip. Have also tried MonsterMan grip and hammerhead grip, but the best for me is the MIAD with backfin.
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#15
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Thread protector BETTER. Cheaper and less noisy.
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#16
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#17
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You made very good points.
Therefore I suggest OP to go with these https://lmtdefense.com/product-category/parts/uppers/ Or these https://www.knightarmco.com/12530/sh...el-urx-4-m-lok Then optic-to-rifle price ratio will be close to balance. ![]() ![]() |
#19
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Not to mention I could always add the EOTECH to a better rifle in the future. |
#20
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If you want to save some money and get a somewhat reliable rifle, just get a m&p sport. Think they're around $700. Then when funds allow you can replace the upper with one you want and then buy a stripped lower for the extra upper that you'll now have.
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#22
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#23
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![]() The advice are wise and true, you can't shoot what you can't see. ButI don't know anyone with 100 yards hallway. In home defense situation, you can just point and shoot ![]() |
#24
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Check out some of these. Maybe get one with an A2 stock.
https://palmettostatearmory.com/ar-15/kits.html
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It takes a lot of balls to play golf the way I do. Happiness is a warm gun. MLC, First 3 |
#25
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Wait for the July 4th sale can land you some deals. Below is what I did recently over the Memorial Day sale
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#26
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For a lower, you can get the KE Arms polymer lower that goes into the WWSD rifle. It has an integral A1 length fixed stock. You don't have to install a buffer tube or takedown pins or a trigger guard. These are the trickiest parts of building a lower. They have a kali version that includes a fin for $150.
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#27
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What are your guy's thoughts on this combo?
https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-...ight-set1.html Right now I feel like I am leaning towards this one. For that butt stock, is it adjustable or fixed? I am not sure. |
#28
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That stock is the standard M4 collapsible stock that comes with probably 95% of all ARs sold. There's literally dozens of ways to make it a fixed stock, ranging from the 10˘ paperclip method to the $10 stock stop.
__________________
--------------------- "There is no "best." If there was, everyone here would own that one, and no other." - DSB |
#29
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There are many cheap companies who do uppers. But I recommend aero precision and palmetto.
They're trusted brands even though they're on the economic side. Featureless for the front end you can get any muzzle brake or a thread protector for like ten bucks. Fix stock either the Magpul fix stock for like 25$ or the milspec stock with a stock stop from strike industries. The grip you should find the one that feels more comfy. So try a few. |
#30
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Kyle "Kenosha Kid" Rittenhouse did nothing wrong |
#31
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#32
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Aero lower.
Colt 6920 upper https://www.armsunlimited.com/Colt-A...p/le6920ck.htm Replace flashider with brake or thread protector. Replace A2 grip with featureless grip of your choice. Fix stock using a pin or or stock stop or a featureless stock like this one: https://www.opticsplanet.com/mission...buttstock.html
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CRPA and NRA member. DONT FEED TROLLS! Remember, some random fool's opinion of what kind of person you are, means absolutely nothing. |
#33
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I built one out last week, I went with a complete upper from Primary Arms in .223 Wylde that shipped with a muzzle brake.
For Grip I went with a Sparrow Industries grip (feels like a traditional stock to me). Magpul fixed stock, but I drilled the buffer tube to allow me to fix it at a longer LOP. I have another build that uses the Cross Armory Stock Lock. Went with Rise Armament Flat trigger, Bolt and lower parts kit.
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"Okay, just one more gun......." |
#34
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Hard pass Cheapest I'd go is PSA...
__________________
Kyle "Kenosha Kid" Rittenhouse did nothing wrong |
#35
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Does PSA offer a sub-moa guarantee with an enhanced BCG for $350? https://ar15discounts.com/products/d...roup-223-5-56/ Don't let the name full you just because you think it's funny. |
#36
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![]() They are based out of Bakersfield, supposedly moved their HQ to North/South Carolina ? Still have warehouse in Bakersfield though. |
#37
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Their HQ is still in Bakersfield. They moved their main warehouse and future manufacturing facility to Raleigh NC. Their Bakersfield location is now a retail store right across the street from the Turners store/range.
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#39
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if you don't care about looks, the original thordsen has always been a no frills fixed stock and you can get a full thumb-over grasp. wrist angle is comfortable too when compared to the sparrow - I have to chicken wing more with the sparrow grip.
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