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View Full Version : if you annealed brass a little too much...


bsumoba
06-19-2014, 10:02 AM
you can throw it through the sizing die and work harden it a little bit, then fire and re-size again and it will go back to normal correct?

seating the bullets is a little easier than normal, but it is still holding the bullet well as indicated by the bullet not being able to be moved back when pressing the bullet against a wood block by hand.

CEDaytonaRydr
06-19-2014, 10:30 AM
you can throw it through the sizing die and work harden it a little bit, then fire and re-size again and it will go back to normal correct?

Yes, but the brass will probably stretch more than usual.

You should really only have to anneal about every 5-7 reloadings, or if you're doing some craziness, like turning 30-06 into 308, or something. ;)

mark501w
06-19-2014, 10:46 AM
Not a problem unless you got the base, then they're junk.

CEDaytonaRydr
06-19-2014, 11:02 AM
Not a problem unless you got the base, then they're junk.

...which is why you should use some type of heatsink when you anneal. I see a lot of people screwing that up. That cordless drill method is garbage...

bubbala
06-19-2014, 3:59 PM
depends on how much is too much. if you see the torch flame begin to turn orange, you're burning zinc out of the brass. that's a real good indication of when to stop heating. just before it goes orange that is.
if you've turned the brass orange they're pretty much toasted and tossed.:eek:

bsumoba
06-19-2014, 4:20 PM
they are not turning orange and i am using 700 degree tempilaq to help aid in telling me when i am about there. i am using the old school torch, chuck the brass in a drill and hold it over the flame and it works well for me.

i actually annealed first, then resized. i still have decent neck tension. the last batch i did, I had 1 piece where I went a little over and it would not hold the bullet. a couple times through the resizing die and the tension came back. after i anneal, i also dunk it in water right away to stop it from heating the case head

manny
06-19-2014, 6:39 PM
You can use a cakepan filled about a third to half way up the case with water and quench. They only need to turn a bluish color to anneal necks, red is too much.

J-cat
06-19-2014, 7:47 PM
Use a smaller torch. I anneal with a mini torch. It takes a little longer, but you have better control over the temperature.

bubbala
06-19-2014, 9:44 PM
they are not turning orange and i am using 700 degree tempilaq to help aid in telling me when i am about there. i am using the old school torch, chuck the brass in a drill and hold it over the flame and it works well for me.

i actually annealed first, then resized. i still have decent neck tension. the last batch i did, I had 1 piece where I went a little over and it would not hold the bullet. a couple times through the resizing die and the tension came back. after i anneal, i also dunk it in water right away to stop it from heating the case head

sounds good:thumbsup:

Metal God
07-04-2014, 3:00 PM
I did some testing last month or so and found out some interesting things when it comes to annealing . Check out this thread at TFL . I'm Metal God there as well . later in the thread is my testing and pics to show what was going on .

The thread is long but quite informative I think
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=545128

Pauliedad
07-04-2014, 3:57 PM
Tag. I'm up to four reloadings so I'll be real interested in this soon.
Same 5-7 loadings or so for .308?
Thanks guys

mjmagee67
07-04-2014, 4:03 PM
Brass gets SOFTER when you anneal, brass splits when you work harden it and it looses it's elasticity. So if you over anneal it you will loose neck tension. There are 2 possible things one, there is not enough neck tension to hole the bullet firmly or the tension is too low and it releases the bullet too soon and you get incomplete powder burning crappy accuracy.

If you anneal the base of the case the case could rupture because the brass in too soft.