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bzzz
07-18-2013, 10:00 PM
Don't know if this tip was mentioned before, but I just wanted to share my findings with the reloading community.

I'm just getting used to the 650 I just setup. I was able to load 9mm fine without any issues.

However, after I converted it to .357 Magnum, the range brass was constantly partially inserted into Station #1 and the partially inserted brass would get ruined by the decapping/sizing die.
http://i.imgur.com/a2VjDYN.jpg

Here's a pic of the gap between the shell plate and brass.
http://i.imgur.com/g4MTkJR.jpg

I looked online to find workarounds: clean and lube the case insert slide, adjust the camming pin, tighten the shell plate bolt, and etc… None of those worked. For awhile, I ended up manually pushing the case insert more with my right hand after pushing in on the 650 handle (after priming) or I would use my left hand and pull in the case towards the shellplate on the downstroke.

Then I thought the case just needed a little more push from the case insert mechanism. I thought of of adding a band-aid because it is padded and self-adhesive.
http://i.imgur.com/LaLlkot.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HKaxKwG.jpg

Here's a pic of the fully inserted case into Station #1, no more gap. One band aid helped a little in fully inserting the case, so I added a second one on top of the first one and now I get 100% case insertion in Station #1.
http://i.imgur.com/QDE1W7M.jpg

Now I can crank out the ammo without babying the case insert. Now, reloading on the Dillon 650 XL is pretty smooth and low maintenance.

Happy Reloading!

sjd78
07-18-2013, 10:15 PM
Maybe the case insert slide is out of spec? Maybe a call to Dillon is in order.

ar15barrels
07-18-2013, 10:35 PM
The case insert slide should stop AGAINST the cartridge when it is slid into the shellplate.
Without a cartridge, the case insert slide should actually move FURTHER than when there is a cartridge.
I'm guessing you have something out of adjustment or some plastic flashing on the case insert slide causing an issue.

bzzz
07-18-2013, 10:44 PM
@sjd78: I might call Dillon if I experience the same problem when I switch over to 9mm. I was able to load 9mm fine.

Before the band-aid fix, I was able to occasionally fully insert the .357 brass if I pushed the handle pretty fast. I think the momentum helped in inserting the case.

@ar15barrels: I might fully strip/dis-assemble the case insert mechanism this weekend to see if there is any rough surface/dry area/adjustment that help the case insert mechanism with the last 1 or 2 mm of travel. Without the band-aid, it just needs a tiny nudge to fully insert the brass.

ar15barrels
07-18-2013, 11:14 PM
@ar15barrels: I might fully strip/dis-assemble the case insert mechanism this weekend to see if there is any rough surface/dry area/adjustment that help the case insert mechanism with the last 1 or 2 mm of travel. Without the band-aid, it just needs a tiny nudge to fully insert the brass.

Any chance you put your station 1 case locator in backwards?
One end has a tab that sticks out and might limit the case inserter travel.

Also, check your index ball and the indexer piece on the ram underneath to make sure the indexing is correct.
If the indexing is off, the case will get hung up going from the station 1 locator into the shellplate.

milw50717
07-19-2013, 12:57 AM
Definitely not right. Have a peek at the below and call Dillon support.

http://www.dillonprecision.biz/support-xl650/

Davisje011
07-19-2013, 7:41 AM
The tall ramp thing is adjustable back and fourth, you need to back off the screw and push it back and then retighten.

milw50717
07-19-2013, 9:06 AM
The tall ramp thing is adjustable back and fourth, you need to back off the screw and push it back and then retighten.

Also check that it is correctly orientated for pistol calibres. One side (either the long or the short slope, I forget which so check the manual) is for pistol and the other is for rifle.

Edit - Just checked and the long slope is for pistol.

ar15barrels
07-19-2013, 2:23 PM
The tall ramp thing is adjustable back and fourth, you need to back off the screw and push it back and then retighten.

I'm not in front of my press, but the rod that actuates the ramp should come all the way down the ramp at the top of the ram travel and the ramp should lift off the rod when a case is in place in the shellplate and the ram is at the bottom of its travel.
If the rod is still on contact with the ramp at the bottom of the ram travel, the case insert slide or the rod height are out of adjustment.
The case insert slide is the easier one to adjust.

bzzz
07-19-2013, 7:05 PM
Definitely not right. Have a peek at the below and call Dillon support.

http://www.dillonprecision.biz/support-xl650/
whoa, that's a crazy in-depth troubleshooting guide. i'll reference it when I work on the 650.

The tall ramp thing is adjustable back and fourth, you need to back off the screw and push it back and then retighten.
i will try adjusting it and see if it works.

I'm not in front of my press, but the rod that actuates the ramp should come all the way down the ramp at the top of the ram travel and the ramp should lift off the rod when a case is in place in the shellplate and the ram is at the bottom of its travel.
If the rod is still on contact with the ramp at the bottom of the ram travel, the case insert slide or the rod height are out of adjustment.
The case insert slide is the easier one to adjust.
I will look at the adjusting the rod too.

I think the case insert mechanism is ideal for 9mm, that was the original configuration I ordered from Dillon. When I did the conversion to .357 mag, I didn't touch anything with the case insert mechanism because I figured it would work fine.

Maybe, I should just a get another Dillon for .357 (ie-one for 9mm and the other dedicated for .357). :)

Thanks Calgunner's for all the tips/resources, I'll keep you guys posted once I get more progress with this.

Rwnielsen
07-19-2013, 8:13 PM
Raise the rod. lose the band aid. The machine is well made and fully adjustable for chrissakes. The caliber conversion kits come with all the case feed parts specific to that caliber.

Malthusian
07-19-2013, 8:24 PM
nobody mentioned lubing the glide rails on the case insert slide

ar15barrels
07-19-2013, 8:50 PM
nobody mentioned lubing the glide rails on the case insert slide

They are plastic and should be left dry.
If you lube them with anything wet, they just get gummed up.
Graphite dry lube would be fine.

Malthusian
07-20-2013, 5:00 AM
They are plastic and should be left dry.
If you lube them with anything wet, they just get gummed up.
Graphite dry lube would be fine.

I beg to differ:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=34354

located within this link:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=108839

Feature word is "grease"

Although, I do like the idea of graphite better. Kinda hard to get graphite to stay on the angle cam though. I wipe the press down after
each session, remove the old grease and re-lube per the diagram

I use white grease

The press runs super smooth, compared to running it dry, particularly the angle cam, slide cam assembly

ar15barrels
07-20-2013, 12:52 PM
I beg to differ:

Differ all you want.
I'm speaking from my own experience, not from what someone else posted on the Internet.
Find out what works best for yourself.
Don't listen to me or anyone else on the Internet...

milw50717
07-20-2013, 10:42 PM
FWIW I grease some of the plastic bits on my XL650 and have not had an issue.

A and O
07-21-2013, 9:01 PM
I only lube the parts that were lubed at the factory

jrw711
11-06-2013, 7:15 PM
Had this same problem, i.e., case would not fully feeding into station 1. I loosened the camming pin and now it works great!