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View Full Version : Welding Markings on Lower Reciever.


PachecoFTW
03-13-2012, 8:43 PM
Hello Calguns I have a question regarding on welding in the letters and names on AR-15 lower recievers. i saw it on a thread on the AR15.com forum but there a bunch of arses so i thought i would ask here. I saw it on the thread about building Dissapator Colt 605 Clones i just want to weld in the name ETC.
No not the Serial #. Any tricks on sanding and mostly do i just weld and grind or What?

Thanks.

Plisk
03-13-2012, 8:48 PM
Why do you feel the need to cover up markings on a lower?

PachecoFTW
03-13-2012, 9:00 PM
Why do you feel the need to cover up markings on a lower?

just feel like it. No real Answer.

tujungatoes
03-13-2012, 9:31 PM
Have you considered just getting a retro lover from NoDak Spud?

PachecoFTW
03-13-2012, 10:23 PM
Have you considered just getting a retro lover from NoDak Spud?

yeah but just not feeling it.

arsilva32
03-13-2012, 10:23 PM
ive heard of people using solder before, don't know how well it works but the nodak retro receiver route seems way easier and allot less work.

bohoki
03-13-2012, 10:55 PM
pretty sure that would fall under obliterating firearm markings and i'm pretty sure there is a law about firearm markings and it is not only the serial number i cant quite find it but last time i read it it was not very specific it was almost it may be intrepreted to include fixing a scratch on a stock

jbk
03-13-2012, 11:06 PM
with all due respect, How much Aluminum welding experience do you have? If that is what is made of, I dont own any AR's.

repoman1984
03-13-2012, 11:42 PM
I've thought about the idea of getting little plate engraved with my firearms engravings and just tack welding it onto my naked homemade receiver. I figure theres a calgunner out there who would do it for a few bucks.

I've never tried but Aluminum is supposedly a ***** to weld, I would look into industrial adhesives

uxo2
03-14-2012, 9:37 AM
would it be easier to just go this route.

Buy a 80%..
have it engraved.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_123/549978_80__A1_lower.html
and modified to A1 patteren.

Then finish it out.......
All legal and not playing games with factory markings...It can go either way.

darthnugget
03-14-2012, 9:47 AM
would it be easier to just go this route.

Buy a 80%..
have it engraved.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_123/549978_80__A1_lower.html
and modified to A1 patteren.

Then finish it out.......
All legal and not playing games with factory markings...It can go either way.

^^ This

jbk
03-14-2012, 9:54 AM
Repoman.....it not that it is a a..... To weld, however aluminum does take practice. Al. Has to be extremely clean to get a nice weld and u have to have a good machine to do a good job. The HF models I wouldn't bet on. Also you have to know what series of aluminum you are welding. Some aluminum can't be welded.

Intimid8tor
03-14-2012, 1:27 PM
You could use alumaweld rods if just filling in. But, there is a risk that the original serial number will be damaged and I am not sure how that would be viewed.

For that matter, I don't know how filling in the original markings would be viewed.

I would go with an 80% and have it engraved how you like.

PachecoFTW
03-14-2012, 7:51 PM
Repoman.....it not that it is a a..... To weld, however aluminum does take practice. Al. Has to be extremely clean to get a nice weld and u have to have a good machine to do a good job. The HF models I wouldn't bet on. Also you have to know what series of aluminum you are welding. Some aluminum can't be welded.


No Harbor Freight tools as important as a welder in my shed. well just asking if anyone could inform me a little.

PachecoFTW
03-14-2012, 7:53 PM
You could use alumaweld rods if just filling in. But, there is a risk that the original serial number will be damaged and I am not sure how that would be viewed.

For that matter, I don't know how filling in the original markings would be viewed.

I would go with an 80% and have it engraved how you like.

I have read to cover serial# with damp rag and aluminum duct tape.

jbk
03-14-2012, 8:21 PM
I'm not positive but I think jb weld makes aluminum. I would think you could clean area and apply the use a file and sandpaper.

CHAD PEZZLE
03-15-2012, 9:06 AM
Most newer AR lowers are 7075. 7075 is not easily welded with a tig welder, most info on the internet says to not even try it cause it's prone to cracking. Confirming what type of aluminum the lower is made from before welding is key. Even if it's 6061, I still wouldn't recommend it. Also if the welded area is on the magwell, that is an extremely thin area which would probably warp. Even worse, if you're not an experienced tig welder you'd likely weld a hole right through the magwell.


I'd use some sort of industrial epoxy to fill and then duracoat or cerakote the entire lower. Welding is just not a good idea, especially if you lack experience.

Chad

REH
03-15-2012, 10:00 AM
The manufacture is required by ATF to put, the name of manufacture, city, state and serail number on the receiver. Removing anyone of them could cause you some problems.

ptoguy2002
03-15-2012, 11:34 AM
Re-marking the model number to a different model is commonly done on HK guns.
For example, changing HK94 to MP5, or HK93 to HK33.
On the 21 conversions, the mfg's information is also removed as it is on the magwell which is cut off, but usually it goes back on in a different spot with the same info.
IDK about removing it and keeping it removed, might be asking for trouble, but I am by no means an expert.
The serial number is sacred though, you don't touch it, change it, alter it or anything. That is 100% guaranteed prison time (with a couple exemptions that get into NFA stuff, but not applicable for what your talking about).

ke6guj
03-15-2012, 12:01 PM
Re-marking the model number to a different model is commonly done on HK guns.
For example, changing HK94 to MP5, or HK93 to HK33.
On the 21 conversions, the mfg's information is also removed as it is on the magwell which is cut off, but usually it goes back on in a different spot with the same info.
IDK about removing it and keeping it removed, might be asking for trouble, but I am by no means an expert.
The serial number is sacred though, you don't touch it, change it, alter it or anything. That is 100% guaranteed prison time (with a couple exemptions that get into NFA stuff, but not applicable for what your talking about).federally, that is normally OK, but CA law is more strict and even changing the model number is a no-no


23900. Any person who changes, alters, removes, or obliterates the
name of the maker, model, manufacturer's number, or other mark of
identification, including any distinguishing number or mark assigned
by the Department of Justice, on any pistol, revolver, or any other
firearm, without first having secured written permission from the
department to make that change, alteration, or removal shall be
punished by imprisonment pursuant to subdivision (h) of Section 1170.


23920. Except as provided in Section 23925, any person who, with
knowledge of any change, alteration, removal, or obliteration
described in this section, buys, receives, disposes of, sells, offers
for sale, or has in possession any pistol, revolver, or other
firearm that has had the name of the maker or model, or the
manufacturer's number or other mark of identification, including any
distinguishing number or mark assigned by the Department of Justice,
changed, altered, removed, or obliterated, is guilty of a
misdemeanor.
[/U]

ptoguy2002
03-15-2012, 1:27 PM
federally, that is normally OK, but CA law is more strict and even changing the model number is a no-no


23900. Any person who changes, alters, removes, or obliterates the
name of the maker, model, manufacturer's number, or other mark of
i........
[/U]

Hum, yeah, Jack's right.

kcstott
03-15-2012, 8:18 PM
Besides the legal side of things
7075 is a pain to weld and still have decent strength left. It fouls up the heat treat big time. Did you know that 7075 is not allowed to be used as a component that is load bearing if it has been welded according to the AWS and the UBC?? This is why 6061 is the stuff to use for structural aluminum.

I'll say it again welding 7075 fouls it up.
Now you will say "well there not the much load on a lower. Yeah you're right. But would you want a part that cracked all on it's own right after welding?? That is what usually happens to 7075 T6 or above

milotrain
03-15-2012, 8:56 PM
I wouldn't do this for the legal reasons but likely your best bet is to you Bondo or JB weld to fill the gaps, sand it down and hit it with gunkote or some similar product.

You don't want to learn to weld on an anodized, 7075 chunk that cost you money and a 10 day wait.

milotrain
03-15-2012, 8:56 PM
I wouldn't do this for the legal reasons but likely your best bet is to you Bondo or JB weld to fill the gaps, sand it down and hit it with gunkote or some similar product.

You don't want to learn to weld on an anodized, 7075 chunk that cost you money and a 10 day wait.

JNunez23
03-16-2012, 1:52 PM
NoDak has a couple of lightly scratched ones for $50 right now.

http://nodakspud.com/AR%20Lowers.htm