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View Full Version : Incipient Case Separation or Ejector Scribe Marks


gsparesa
02-26-2012, 9:48 AM
I was inspecting .357 brass that I shot yesterday with my 627 and 686 revolvers. This is the third time this brass has been used. I shoot the 627 without the aid of moon-clips. The 686 does not support moon clips. I noticed rings about the head on most of the brass. The rings do not go completely around the case but extend for maybe 1/4" the diameter of the case. The lines are approximately 0.14" below primer side of the rim. The lines do not display the "bright ring warning sign" of case separation but rather look like scribed cuts made with a blade.

See pic (http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/gsparesa/guns/Ejector_marks_2_800X600.jpg)
http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/gsparesa/guns/Ejector_marks_2_800X600.jpg



I placed an empty case in the cylinder. It appears to me that the cuts were made from the ejector. The ejector has a wedge shaped edge. The edge is sharp. The marks on the case appear to coincide with the sharp edge of the ejector. It appears that as the gasses expand the case, the case imbeds itself into the sharp edge of the ejector. The mark is then imprinted or cut into the case. Side Note: Notice there is a portion of the case that is not supported? Something to keep in mind.
See Pic (http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/gsparesa/guns/Shell_seated_in_cyclinder_2_800X600.jpg)
http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/gsparesa/guns/Shell_seated_in_cyclinder_2_800X600.jpg


See Pic (http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/gsparesa/guns/Ejector_out_800X600.jpg)
http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh481/gsparesa/guns/Ejector_out_800X600.jpg



Apparently, this has to weaken the head of the case. Does anyone have more information? Would you keep reloading these marked or scribed cases?

Bill Steele
02-26-2012, 11:20 AM
I can't tell you if the exterior marks will lead to a near term case head seperation. If I see bright rings starting to form down by the head (and anytime I start getting up there in load count), I check the case by taking a paperclip bending it 90 degrees on the end and using it to feel for lines and cracks inside the case. Any of these present are cause for me to scrap the brass. Exterior dents that don't appear to have anything to do with the integrity of the inside of the case I usually ignore.

I have never had a revolver do that to any case I shot. I think I would go back to using moon clips on the 627 to avoid the denting. It is only happening on the 627, right?

Abenaki
02-26-2012, 11:41 AM
+1 on the paper clip trick.
On 357 brass, you can shine a light down in it and see if there is a ring that is thinning in that area.

I don't think that you have a problem.

Take care
Abenaki

gsparesa
02-26-2012, 2:09 PM
Bill Steele, you had a good idea and I ran with it.
I made the scribe gauge tool (90 deg bent paper-clip) and found that I could not get deep enough in the case to feel for any breaches (cracks) in the case. So, I did some measurements with a digital caliper on my Remington cases with the scribed lines. One of the cases I measured (mouth to Rim) had a case length of 1.2815". I then measured from the mouth to the scribed line on the outside of the case on the head. I got ~1.138". I then measured from the mouth to the case head (web) from inside the case. I measured ~1.125". It appears that the scribed line made by the 627 is on the "meaty" part of the head and below the web. Using the calculator, it looks like my head thickness is ~ 0.1565". I think these cases are good to reload. I don't believe it's head separation either. As a precaution, I sent email to Smith and Wesson. Thanks guys .