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wash
11-07-2011, 12:47 PM
I've got a kit and a receiver and I'm going to an AK build party next weekend.

The receiver has some surface rust and a little pitting. I think it will clean up.

I'm thinking that I might want to try electrolytic rust removal and then park it at the build party.

Is there any reason not to do that in preparation for a future build?

Secondly, if anyone in the silicon valley area has the receiver wrenches and other gauges required for a Garand build and doesn't mind lending them to me, I would appreciate it.

I've found a couple sources of build info but if anyone has tips on national match type Garand builds, let me know.

Thanks.

big103
11-07-2011, 1:24 PM
Sounds like your on the right track. Just don`t use a pipe wrench and a vise to put it together seen many epic fails done this way.

You going to want to gauge your parts before you start building the gun stuff like the gas cylinder and the piston are 2 big thing that ware out and need to be replaced on the garand. You might also want to gauge the barrel to make sure your not sticking something on the gun a high throat erosion or high muzzle ware, if it is a surplus barrel.

Instead of electrolytic removal you could just sand blast the receiver and other parts. You want to wrap tape or something around the barrel threads and receiver barrel threads. If I remember there are a couple parts on the garand that you don`t want to park or you cant park I cant remember which way. The gas cylinder I think is one of them. Also make sure you plug the barrel that way nothing can get into it.

As for making a match gun prepare to spend some money big money.


Hope this helps.

hawkeye
11-07-2011, 1:35 PM
Where did you get the receiver and kit?

wash
11-07-2011, 3:08 PM
I bought the kit from an estate sale, it's a Danish kit with a VAR barrel full of cosmolene and a mix of Italian and US parts for the rest.

The receiver is a Winchester that I bought elsewhere.

I think they are a good match because evidently the Danish and Italians bought their tooling from Winchester.

The kit is in excellent shape from what I can tell but I haven't checked the bore.

The receiver has just about 0% finish, blasting would certainly clean up the surface rust but maybe not get all the way in to the pitting. I'm worried that blasting out the rear sight area might mess up the clicks or something. I'm not a big fan of the really coarse parkerizing look either (I think they get that way from aggressive sand blasting).

Any way I want to make sure I don't screw up anything before I get to the hard part.

From what I understand a national match Garand was made with hand picked and modified USGI parts, specifically the barrel, gas cylinder, op-rod, handguard and a bedding job. The VAR barrel is supposed to be a good one, the NM gas cylinder mod seems like something I could do, the op-rod just gets bent to eliminate drag in the gas cylinder and I need to learn how to do a good steel bed job any way. I don't see where that will get expensive if I use all of the parts I've already got. I don't plan on a national match rear sight so I'll save some money there.

Since it's a mutt build, I don't have to worry about being correct and I think having a nice accurate Garand will trump the problem of making a non-original Garand even less original...

Orlando
11-07-2011, 3:37 PM
I bought the kit from an estate sale, it's a Danish kit with a VAR barrel full of cosmolene and a mix of Italian and US parts for the rest.

The receiver is a Winchester that I bought elsewhere.

I think they are a good match because evidently the Danish and Italians bought their tooling from Winchester.

The kit is in excellent shape from what I can tell but I haven't checked the bore.

The receiver has just about 0% finish, blasting would certainly clean up the surface rust but maybe not get all the way in to the pitting. I'm worried that blasting out the rear sight area might mess up the clicks or something. I'm not a big fan of the really coarse parkerizing look either (I think they get that way from aggressive sand blasting).

Any way I want to make sure I don't screw up anything before I get to the hard part.

From what I understand a national match Garand was made with hand picked and modified USGI parts, specifically the barrel, gas cylinder, op-rod, handguard and a bedding job. The VAR barrel is supposed to be a good one, the NM gas cylinder mod seems like something I could do, the op-rod just gets bent to eliminate drag in the gas cylinder and I need to learn how to do a good steel bed job any way. I don't see where that will get expensive if I use all of the parts I've already got. I don't plan on a national match rear sight so I'll save some money there.

Since it's a mutt build, I don't have to worry about being correct and I think having a nice accurate Garand will trump the problem of making a non-original Garand even less original...


Everytime you repark any metal your blast first. You will not hurt the receiver, I would suggest bead blast
I strongly suggest you get a book and do some reading on Garand buidling. It takes more than a barrel vice , wrench and headspace gauges
It sounds as though you know enough to get yourself into trouble. JMO

wash
11-07-2011, 10:26 PM
I know way more than enough to get myself in to trouble...

I realize that you have to blast everything before you park, I just don't want to have to blast through rust and screw up the surface finish by being to aggressive in the blast cabinet.

I also don't want to park or blast anything that may interfere with the barrel timing or headspace.

I've built FALs, they are pretty easy. I know a Garand will be more difficult but it can't be that much harder.

Orlando
11-08-2011, 2:24 AM
Bead blast dont use sand

kendog4570
11-08-2011, 7:13 AM
I know way more than enough to get myself in to trouble...

I realize that you have to blast everything before you park, I just don't want to have to blast through rust and screw up the surface finish by being to aggressive in the blast cabinet.

I also don't want to park or blast anything that may interfere with the barrel timing or headspace.

I've built FALs, they are pretty easy. I know a Garand will be more difficult but it can't be that much harder.


Proper blasting of parts will not affect any of the items you mention.


Assembling an M1 is no more difficult than any other service rifle (FAL, etc.) Putting together a match grade gun is a whole different proposition. I have the tooling, knowledge, and expertise for putting together a good shooter, and I am just over the hill in Santa Cruz Co. PM if interested.
20+ years experience with US service rifles, FFL licensed and insured.
Thanks,
Ken

mycrstuff
11-08-2011, 7:54 PM
Like the guys above have said use a glass bead blast. The 70-80 grit Harbor Freight blast media that they use at the AK build parties actually textures the steel with little indentations. I compared my AK receiver to my Garand receiver and the Garand is super smooth. The 80 grit will destroy that finish.

ElvenSoul
11-08-2011, 7:57 PM
Garand at a AK Build Party :) Now that is Epic!

Seriously contact Shuff

http://shuffsparkerizing.com/

mycrstuff
11-08-2011, 7:57 PM
You also need a barrel vise and a receiver wrench. The CMP used to sell them. You might check the for sale section of the CMP forum to see if anyone is selling their old ones.

mrlonewolf
11-08-2011, 8:38 PM
You also need a barrel vise and a receiver wrench. The CMP used to sell them. You might check the for sale section of the CMP forum to see if anyone is selling their old ones.

^^^ And/or:

The good old 12 ton press and barrel jaws, don't forget the infamous 36" cheater bar FTW....;)

mrlonewolf
11-08-2011, 8:46 PM
http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt96/mrlonewolf/Receiver%20wrench/ReceiverW.jpg

... ;)

wash
11-08-2011, 9:12 PM
Garand at a AK Build Party :) Now that is Epic!

Seriously contact Shuff

http://shuffsparkerizing.com/
I'm only thinking about it because I'll have access to a park tank.

I plan on doing all of the work and making the tooling I can't beg or borrow but I don't know the entire scope of that. Hence, I just want to park it to remove the oxidation and protect the metal. I can figure out the rest later.

mrlonewolf
11-10-2011, 5:31 PM
When the time comes...

I can help you to build the da..n thing.... :43:

chibitodd
12-04-2011, 11:45 PM
Aluminum oxside spelled right? Or glass bead before reparking

general_disarray_prk
12-05-2011, 7:35 AM
This book is the "bible" for building and maintaining a Garand.
You should purchase it before going any further, because as Orlando said in this thread, it sounds like you know enough about building to get yourself into trouble ;-)
Fulton and Smith Armorers refer to this book constantly, because Kuhnhausen has been there and done that.
The book has all the measurements, pictures, and tool references you will ever need. It'll be the best $45 you ever spend on your Garand.
As a side-note, my bro-in-law maintains CNC Machines, and after returning from the range and shooting my Garand, he found my copy of "the bible" on the shelf in my man cave. He was amazed at how much detail the book goes into - he couldn't put it down - even brought it to the dinner table until his wife put the Kaibash on him and instructed him to "put it down and conversate at the dinner table." ;-)

"The U.S. .30 Caliber Gas Operated Service Rifles: A Shop Manual Volumes 1 & 2"
By Jerry Kuhnhausen

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/582340/the-us-30-caliber-gas-operated-service-rifles-a-shop-manual-volumes-1-and-2-book-by-jerry-kuhnhausen

wash
12-05-2011, 8:13 AM
I've got his 1911 manuals, if they are as good as that, it will be well worth the price.

I ran out of time before the build party and didn't actually get to the electrolysis or blasting. I did get to see the blast and park process and I think I'm a little more comfortable with it now.

I just have to ask if the blasting was done with aluminum oxide or glass beads. The park I saw there was less coarse than I was expecting so my guess is glass beads.

Any way, I'll get to parking it one of these days.

kcstott
12-05-2011, 12:46 PM
One thing to keep in mind is the way a Garand is headspaced. You have to use a pull through reamer to headspace the rifle. New barrels are supposed to be short chambered. You then clock the barrel and finish ream to proper headspace.
Garand's are not tough to build they are just finely crafted pieces of machinery and if not assembled correctly they will never function correctly. But once assembled correctly they will damn near last for ever with just a modest amount of attention.

There are a gazillion books and web sights out there. I'll send you a pm with a list.