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View Full Version : I guess I need a LEE factory crimp die


JagerDog
07-05-2011, 4:59 PM
Tried my new to me 1911 Gold Cup this w/e. Shot great, but didn't care for my lead reloads. Typical bulge is too much for the match chamber. 1 caught the cast edge on the bullet too. My Sig 220 eats the stuff up. Should be pretty easy to seat them a bit deeper and run through the Lee "post sizer".

Cowboy T
07-05-2011, 5:46 PM
That will work. That's the situation my cameralady's in with my cast boolits. The resulting rounds work great in my Security-Six, but they're a bit tight in her gun's chambers and on occasion won't fit. She now uses the FCD to post-size 'em down.

However, the really best solution is to size down your cast bullets first, before loading, for rounds intended for your 1911's match chamber.

Briancnelson
07-05-2011, 5:49 PM
I use mine in several calibers a lot, after having some issues with my first batches. It eliminates feeding problems for me.

30Cal
07-05-2011, 5:58 PM
I never ran into a case mouth flare that a standard seating die couldn't iron out.

JagerDog
07-05-2011, 10:20 PM
I never ran into a case mouth flare that a standard seating die couldn't iron out.

This isn't the at the mouth. They've already seen a Hornady taper crimp die. feed and fire fine in the Sig (sloppy chamber?). The lead bullets (.452) bulge out the brass a bit to the seating depth. That slight bulge interferes with the rather tight NM chamber. Slide won't go all the way back into battery and you can see the shiny part on the brass where it hangs up...maybe 3/16" in back of the mouth.

Could resize the bullets to .451, but my guess is it wouldn't develop as good of seal. That's one reason lead is typically 0.001" over their jacketed counterparts. NM's were basically "wad guns" designed for lead bullets. I don't see any need to reinvent the wheel. LEE's already done it, so I just need to add a step. On new production, it won't even be an added step as the LEE also taper crimps (per LEE).

30Cal
07-06-2011, 12:07 AM
Seating depth is pretty important to get 45ACP semi-wadcutters to feed reliably. You should be showing just a little (no more than 1/16") lead above the case mouth. If you don't have that set right, it'll never feed well.

Bill Steele
07-06-2011, 7:02 AM
I understand the problem you are having. I load a lot of .452 MBC 200gr LSWC's. Sizing the bullet down through a .451 die will likely solve your chambering issues when using thicker cases but will likely also result in more lead in your barrel. Unfortunately, so will the LFCD.

Chris (XDRox) was the first person I read on these boards to point this problem out. I used LFCD's on many of the rounds I was loading and the carbide sizing ring never touched anything, so I could not understand what problem he had with the LFCD.

When I started loading thicker lead bullets, I ran into the problems he pointed out. When you load .452+ lead, many of the headstamps that you may pick up at the range have brass with walls too thick to load thicker bullets in and chamber properly in a tighter chamber.

The LFCD will size your round down so it will chamber, but in doing so, it is just sizing your bullet down (and doing it in a far less controlled manner than a bullet sizing die). So what you will get is bullets of various final dimensions (depending on the thickness of your brass on the case it happens to be loaded in).

I solved this problem for lead by sorting headstamps. I match headstamp (and wall thickness) with the bullets and gun I am loading for. If I want a smaller finished diameter and I am also using larger lead bullets, I use a headstamp like Remington-Peters and it will chamber fine in my tightest gun.

I favor Winchester brass when loading my MBC 200gr LSWC (.452) for my favorite target 1911 as it chambers it perfectly.

If I am loading a jacketed .451 bullet, I will use up my Magtech headstamps as their thickness won't be an issue.

If your accuracy requirements are not high, probably just throwing your tumbled brass into the case hopper and loading away with the LFCD will get the job done, but if you want more consistency than what that approach will offer, then sorting headstamps and matching dimensions will improve your results. You can still use the LFCD with this approach, just stop and inspect what is going on when the lower sizing die is actually doing some sizing when the lever is coming down (kind of like a chamber gauge on the press).

Just my $.02.