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View Full Version : 80% Lower Anodizing ? ?


hylander
08-16-2010, 3:50 PM
I'm planning on buying an 80% from Colfax Tactical.
Already Black Anodized
Question:
Will I need to re-anodized it after I finish Milling of the:

A) Fire control pocket
B) Drill trigger pin hole
C) Drill hammer pin hole
D) Cut trigger slot
9) Selector hole

Mainly I am conserned if the Pins cause more wear,
or is it something to not worry about ?

Stunnason
08-16-2010, 5:00 PM
only if you care about those areas being silver...for some they just leave it the way it is. If you do decide to reanodize it..you will most likely be charge an extra fee for removing the original anodizing. I've seen some pre anodized lowers after they were milled and personally..I don't it looks bad at all.

desertdweller
08-16-2010, 5:26 PM
Mine was like that too and after milling, you can't tell on the outside, just when you break it open and look. I just used a sharpie on the inside and it cut down the contrast. Since nothing really moves in there, the only time a touch up would be needed is if you cleaned inside.

croc4
08-16-2010, 6:06 PM
Just mask off the outside and paint the exposed ALu areas, that's what I plan on doing with mine, mask off the finish, then hit the pocket with moly paint.

Croc4

hylander
08-16-2010, 6:07 PM
Mainly I am conserned if the Pins cause more wear,
or is it something to not worry about ?

Fot
08-16-2010, 6:32 PM
Mainly I am conserned if the Pins cause more wear,
or is it something to not worry about ?

I have heard that as well, can't say if it is fud or not.

VaderSpade
08-16-2010, 6:44 PM
I have yet to see anyone show a picture of worn hammer and/or trigger pin holes, and I have thrown out the challenge on several threads.
I never anodized my first build, I don't shoot it much any more but it was still perfect after 1000 rounds.

couch
08-16-2010, 6:47 PM
If the pins cause more wear compared to what?

nagorb
08-16-2010, 7:07 PM
From what I've heard is the anodizing creates a hardened surface which prevents wear, but I've never seen any evidence that it truly does anything.

desertdweller
08-16-2010, 9:03 PM
I have pins from KNS Precision. I doubt you could wear them out, and they work really good if you drill the holes a hair too big. You can see an example of them on an M16

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=184188481

hylander
08-16-2010, 9:49 PM
If the pins cause more wear compared to what?

More wear to an unAnodized Lower than an Anodized one.

I have pins from KNS Precision. I doubt you could wear them out

Not the Pins wearing, but the Pins wearing the Pin holes in the receiver.

couch
08-16-2010, 11:00 PM
More wear to an unAnodized Lower than an Anodized one.

Gotcha.

It all really depends on what Type of anodize you will go with. If you go with a Type III Hard Anodize it will harden the surface and resist wear obviously than if the material was raw. Keep in mind this anodize builds up the surface so you will have to ream/bore the holes slightly larger than you would if you aren't going to Hard Anodize it. Type I is basically just a dye and will not really help reduce wear. It is mainly cosmetic. Type II is thicker than I and III is thicker as well as harder than II. Type III will be the most wear resistant and hardest since it actually penetrates the material, again just keep in mind the buildup on the surface.

One thing about Hard Anodize is though, while it is harder than the base material it can still deform. You will still be able to ding the part but the anodize shouldn't come off the surface.

If you plan to anodize it after the machining you may as well buy the raw one and save a few bucks. Hard Anodize isn't cheap though. Unless you know someone that does it or can throw it in with a bunch of other stuff, you will be paying more for the Hard Anodize than the lower itself. Regardless, enjoy your build!

IrishPirate
08-16-2010, 11:08 PM
hate to thread jack, but what EXACTLY do you need to mill out the rest of an 80% lower? (pics would be AWESOME!)

thevic
08-16-2010, 11:27 PM
^^
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=271990

found this last night. i have everything except a lower, jig, and anodize kit( i got a pro buddy to do that anyways)

i think this is my first project when i rebuild my new work/smith/reload shed in a fewweeks!

desertdweller
08-17-2010, 11:29 AM
Not the Pins wearing, but the Pins wearing the Pin holes in the receiver.

Right, if you look at the picture from the link you will see that there are rods keeping the distance so if the holes are a little worn, this will fix that. It will also help prevent wear because the pins won't rotate. It's hard to see in the picture from KNS, but the hammer pin has a slot preventing movement and the trigger pin is screwed. The pins come in standard .154 and over sized at .155. Here is a link, BTW - they ship fast:

http://www.knsprecisioninc.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=KNS1&Product_Code=NRTHPMOD2&Category_Code=AR15GP

Seesm
08-17-2010, 8:19 PM
For extended fire of a m-16 I get the hard ano but for what we all use these for no ano is fine... Most of the lowers I have looked at do not look like they are even anodized with type 3 (hard) just saying.

ElectronWrangler
08-22-2010, 12:11 PM
On the subject of anodizing your own lowers, does anyone know offhand the surface area of a stripped lower?

craneman
08-22-2010, 1:28 PM
Hey ElectronWrangler, I can't give you an exact area for anodizing calculations, but my anode was a strip if .125" thick, 3in. wide, 6061 aluminum bar stock that was long enough to reach the top of the 5gal. bucket on both sides when bent in a "U" shape. The anodizing was with a 12v battery charger (non-automatic) set at 35 amps (start low and ramp up the amperage to 35) and it took about 50 min to anodize. This was with 4 gallons of the 15% acid and distilled water mixture, and temp was regulated by ice water in a tub that the bucket sat in and a few floating water bottles with ice in them. The temp never exceeded 70deg.F. Worked liked a charm. Beautiful anodizing.

ElectronWrangler
08-22-2010, 10:05 PM
thanks craneman
EW

VaderSpade
08-23-2010, 7:50 AM
On the subject of anodizing your own lowers, does anyone know offhand the surface area of a stripped lower?

I've seen .58 somewhere but I can't find it or confirm it.

ucb
08-23-2010, 1:59 PM
The mount of force and lack of rotation from the fire control pins and selector won't ever be a real issue when it comes to fatigue wear on those parts, anodized or not