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straykiller
08-10-2010, 9:48 PM
I've been saving up for awhile and finally made the necessary purchase to start getting into the AK building hobby, can you let me know if I've missed anything, also possibly once i build a few ill roll up the garage doors and let a few nearby calguners use them to finish up there builds, thanks alot.



7.62 x 39 Headspace Gauge
Code: C6-21
Options: Type: GO
$32.50 1 - $32.50

7.62 x 39 Headspace Gauge
Code: C6-22
Options: Type: NO-GO
$32.50 1 - $32.50

AK Barrel Pin
Code: A3-31
$5.95 1 - $5.95

AK Center Support for 1mm Receivers
Code: A1-31
$7.00 1 - $7.00

AK Trunnion Rivet Hole Drilling Fixture
Options: Mandrel: 7.62 Red and 5.45 Blue Mandrels (+$15.00)
$80.00 1 - $80.00

AK-Builder AK Rivet Set
Code: AKB-RS
Options: Options: AKM Fixed Stock
$9.00 1 $3.00 $6.00

AK-Builder Barrel Press Kit
Options: Ram Adapter Size: 1" Ram - B3-21
$95.00 1 - $95.00

AK-Builder Flat Bending Die Set
Options: Options: 1mm or .040" Punch
$150.00 1 - $150.00

AK-Builder Lower Bolt Guide Rails
Code: A2-11
$8.95 1 - $8.95

AK-Builder Rail Alignment Fixture
Code: C3-61
$22.50 1 - $22.50

Ak-Builder Rivet Tool
Code: AKB-RTOOL
$250.00 1 - $250.00

AK-Builder Selector Stop
Code: A2-21
$7.95 1 - $7.95

AK47 7.62 Flat With Trunnion Holes
Code: B2-61
Options: Flat options: Top Rail Bent, Stepped and Trimmed
$19.95 1 - $19.95

Gas Port Drill Bit
Code: C7-21
$4.95 1 - $4.95

Red Star Arms FCG Pin Retaining Plate
Code: A1-21
$4.95 1 - $4.95

Tapco G2 Single Hook Trigger
Code: A1-61
$28.50 1 - $28.50

Trigger Guard Screw Plate
Code: A1-32
$4.00 1 - $4.00

valleyrat
08-10-2010, 9:53 PM
Looks good man. Its nice to see someone buy all the proper tools rather than cheaping out and then complaining about their crappy their AK is lol. Study up on how to properly use the AKbuilder rivet jig. Follow the instructions for setting the long rivets WORD FOR WORD and you will end up with really nice long rivets. Use those little rubber spacers to support the receiver around the bucking tool. Have fun!

straykiller
08-10-2010, 10:13 PM
thanks alot man im pretty excited, i figured it was worth the extra money for tools that have great reviews and are known to give great results. I've been reading as much as i can find using my google skills concerning build threads and proper use of the tools, if u know of any good ones you could point me towards I'd appreciate it, ill check it out and see if i haven't discovered it yet. Thanks

SJgunguy24
08-10-2010, 10:29 PM
Does the OP have access to a lathe? I cut my own buck bars from some 1.25" rod stock. Much more stable then that "volcano and rubber bumpers" that comes with the AKBuilder set up. I also made a plate (out of HDPE) that holds the receiver dead flat for the long rivets.
How are you going to attach the lower rails?

straykiller
08-10-2010, 10:40 PM
unfortunately i don't have lathe(yet),i was planning on using a Hf spot welder with modified tips, if you have any advice for me id love to hear it, thanks

TURBOELKY
08-10-2010, 10:46 PM
Sounds fun man. If your close enough, at least join an AK build party for some techniques and some directions, you'd be a step ahead for sure!

valleyrat
08-10-2010, 10:47 PM
They served me well but there's certainly more than one way to skin a cat.

Does the OP have access to a lathe? I cut my own buck bars from some 1.25" rod stock. Much more stable then that "volcano and rubber bumpers" that comes with the AKBuilder set up. I also made a plate (out of HDPE) that holds the receiver dead flat for the long rivets.
How are you going to attach the lower rails?

SJgunguy24
08-10-2010, 11:08 PM
unfortunately i don't have lathe(yet),i was planning on using a Hf spot welder with modified tips, if you have any advice for me id love to hear it, thanks

Instead of dropping the funds for a resistance welder that you'll use 2-3 times. I would invest in a MIG machine and plug weld the rails. You will get more use out of a MIG that you ever will a resistance welder.

straykiller
08-10-2010, 11:23 PM
hmm ill have to look into that, thanks. i have a little cheap HF gas-less type, idk if that would work tho because of all the splatter, plus i need a little more practice time lol not the best at it

SJgunguy24
08-10-2010, 11:41 PM
hmm ill have to look into that, thanks. i have a little cheap HF gas-less type, idk if that would work tho because of all the splatter, plus i need a little more practice time lol not the best at it

Flux core would work, you might be able to find someone with s MIG set up and have them do it.

straykiller
08-10-2010, 11:46 PM
i think i know someone who has access with a mig and who's good at welding ill have to look that method up on attaching the rails maybe with some practice i can do it by myself, thanks again.

motorhead
08-11-2010, 9:45 AM
i noticed you had a predrilled flat listed. if so you can omit the drilling jig. you will still need to fit but it usually only involves egging the predrilled holes with a dremel. the jig is for undrilled recievers/flats.

motorhead
08-11-2010, 9:48 AM
oh, you should add the ak-builder t/g drilling block. everyone should have one. very useful and speeds demil enormously. they're only like $25.

CSACANNONEER
08-11-2010, 9:53 AM
oh, you should add the ak-builder t/g drilling block. everyone should have one. very useful and speeds demil enormously. they're only like $25.

I tried one and did not like it! I can demill the TG faster with a 3" cut off wheel.

valleyrat
08-11-2010, 11:04 AM
W/O the wheel touching the tg? That I would have to see.

I tried one and did not like it! I can demill the TG faster with a 3" cut off wheel.

SJgunguy24
08-11-2010, 11:16 AM
W/O the wheel touching the tg? That I would have to see.

Use the zip wheel to cut the rivets flat on he top, center punch and drill. That's how I always did it.

straykiller
08-11-2010, 11:21 AM
i noticed you had a predrilled flat listed. if so you can omit the drilling jig. you will still need to fit but it usually only involves egging the predrilled holes with a dremel. the jig is for undrilled recievers/flats.

ya i figured i could but i know i plan on doing a ak74 in the near future and it will help with that, and i figured it would help me demill my kit if i ever need to drill out the trunnon rivets

CSACANNONEER
08-11-2010, 11:27 AM
W/O the wheel touching the tg? That I would have to see.

Start from the receiver side. Grind down until you can pull the receiver piece off. Then, regrind untill flush with selector stop. Use a cold chisel to remove selector stop. Regrind until flush with underside of TG. Romove with punch. The whole prosses takes less than 5 minutes and I've done it about 20 times without damage to anything.

valleyrat
08-11-2010, 11:32 AM
Thats clever, ill have to give it a shot. Thanks for the tip.

The TG demill tool is good for other things, like centering a drill on a poorly set rivet you need to demill from a complete receiver. Works great for that.

Start from the receiver side. Grind down until you can pull the receiver piece off. Then, regrind untill flush with selector stop. Use a cold chisel to remove selector stop. Regrind until flush with underside of TG. Romove with punch. The whole prosses takes less than 5 minutes and I've done it about 20 times without damage to anything.

straykiller
08-11-2010, 11:54 AM
Start from the receiver side. Grind down until you can pull the receiver piece off. Then, regrind untill flush with selector stop. Use a cold chisel to remove selector stop. Regrind until flush with underside of TG. Romove with punch. The whole prosses takes less than 5 minutes and I've done it about 20 times without damage to anything.

nice thanks for the advice ill be doing this on friday

BLD
08-11-2010, 9:12 PM
Start from the receiver side. Grind down until you can pull the receiver piece off. Then, regrind untill flush with selector stop. Use a cold chisel to remove selector stop. Regrind until flush with underside of TG. Romove with punch. The whole prosses takes less than 5 minutes and I've done it about 20 times without damage to anything.

I used a similer method to demill my TG. I used a drum sander and ground off the back of the rivets from the inside of the receiver. From there I drilled out some more of the rivets from the back side of the selector stop until the rivets just popped out. It worked out great, and I didn't damage either part.

motorhead
08-12-2010, 10:08 AM
csa i did my first 2 that way. burnt up a $15 dremel also.
evidently there was a bad batch of those blocks that went out. lots of folks had issues. mine is old. it's always worked great for me and all the folks who've used it.

cdownin
09-07-2010, 8:33 AM
I didn't want to start a new thread but I rather ask the OP for updates on his build because i want to see how it came out. I am from the other side of the tracks and can't or choose not to afford all the pricey equipment because thats jus the way I am. DIY FTW

Okay so this thread is label AK build tools so I have been bit with the disease so I started working on a tool to build a parts kit but ran out of wire but the HF wire sucks anyway so I guess it's a good thing I figured I would post what I started before I head out and grab some more wire... I have never seen it posted but Im sure someone has done it... It is a bender jig/barrel press I am making to build my ak tell me what you guys think of the idea...

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/cdownin/photo-1.jpg

chuckdc
09-07-2010, 5:04 PM
I've been saving up for awhile and finally made the necessary purchase to start getting into the AK building hobby, can you let me know if I've missed anything, also possibly once i build a few ill roll up the garage doors and let a few nearby calguners use them to finish up there builds, thanks alot.


Oh, cool. Someone in my neck of the woods getting into it. When's the first build party???:chris::D

Now all I need is the bucks to buy the parts.

straykiller
09-07-2010, 8:08 PM
Oh, cool. Someone in my neck of the woods getting into it. When's the first build party???:chris::D

Now all I need is the bucks to buy the parts.

soon i hope, i just finished up my first build, will probably do one more before i host a small build party, if your interested let me know.

I didn't want to start a new thread but I rather ask the OP for updates on his build because i want to see how it came out. I am from the other side of the tracks and can't or choose not to afford all the pricey equipment because thats jus the way I am. DIY FTW

Okay so this thread is label AK build tools so I have been bit with the disease so I started working on a tool to build a parts kit but ran out of wire but the HF wire sucks anyway so I guess it's a good thing I figured I would post what I started before I head out and grab some more wire... I have never seen it posted but Im sure someone has done it... It is a bender jig/barrel press I am making to build my ak tell me what you guys think of the idea...




http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/cdownin/photo-1.jpg


im pretty interested to see how you set up turns out, keep us posted if u can, my build turned out pretty good i learned a few things that will help me on the next build, i posted another thread with some pics of it, but i will throw some up here tomorrw also, finally got to test fire it on sunday and it functioned flawlessly, granted i only put 60 rounds through it, but not one problem and the extractor had no sign of wear so im pretty happy over all. only thing i need now is a sand blaster and a park tank to refinish it, but i can wait on that

heres the link with pics of when i finished the build

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=336878

cdownin
09-07-2010, 8:59 PM
Thanks for not bashing me for posting in your thread... I saw your new thread about your first AK build but didn't look at your username but dam yeah Im hella jealious I hope to get done with this dam build soon so I can make a youtube video or at least post pictures... I was trying to finish this dam JIG/PRESS tonight and my mig tip **** on me so maybe tomorrow when I get new tips I will press my flat and post more pics... i got a rivet and screw kit so I just need get this **** rollin so I don't look like a tool... LOL

straykiller
09-07-2010, 9:14 PM
Thanks for not bashing me for posting in your thread... I saw your new thread about your first AK build but didn't look at your username but dam yeah Im hella jealious I hope to get done with this dam build soon so I can make a youtube video or at least post pictures... I was trying to finish this dam JIG/PRESS tonight and my mig tip **** on me so maybe tomorrow when I get new tips I will press my flat and post more pics... i got a rivet and screw kit so I just need get this **** rollin so I don't look like a tool... LOL

lol no problem man, if you ever need any help/advice let me know im new to the sene but ill do my best to help, and there's alot of other people that can help also, keep us updated im always interested in ak builds, its going to be well worth the wait trust me, when you pull that trigger and dump that first mag it the best feeling in the world. what kit are you building from if you dont mind me asking.

cdownin
09-08-2010, 7:33 AM
That Romy G kit from centerfire I got pretty luck everything looks pretty new and all part numbers match.. You should take some more close up build pics of the inside of your gun and when you paint it or make a video ....

straykiller
09-08-2010, 9:08 AM
ill get some inside pics later today, and those 100 dollar kits are a pretty good deal i think mine was in good shape to. might have to buy another one after i build a underfolder. do u have head space gauges yet, if not your going to need them for the new barrel, i know your making all your tools but those are a must have, if you already have them just ignore this last part lol

cdownin
09-08-2010, 2:15 PM
ill get some inside pics later today, and those 100 dollar kits are a pretty good deal i think mine was in good shape to. might have to buy another one after i build a underfolder. do u have head space gauges yet, if not your going to need them for the new barrel, i know your making all your tools but those are a must have, if you already have them just ignore this last part lol

Okay cool I wanna see em.. I'm done with this press/gig might paint it later but its done now
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/cdownin/photo-3.jpg

and I was thinking about doing this for the No go/Go gauges...
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk170/fredieusa/Second/AK/Virgin%20Stamped%20Yugo%20M70AB2/Bolt%20and%20Barrel/100_1002.jpg

I think im going to do mostly rivets and screw the trigger gard on but now I am waiting for the pressing block to get drilled and I will start modding the 24" bolt cutters im going to use to rivet it and I got a propane torche to heat treat wish me luck im "blazin" a trail... LOL

Waiting to see tha pics:D

straykiller
09-08-2010, 10:54 PM
good luck post a pic when your done bending your flat, i wanna see how it turns out, and that method for head spacing should work i remember seeing that done in a tutorial some where, never tried it myself personally. how are you going to attach your side rails? here a a few more pics there not exactly what i wanted but my gf was taking the pics and she was a bit rushed.


http://i1031.photobucket.com/albums/y372/straykiller/guns/014.jpg

http://i1031.photobucket.com/albums/y372/straykiller/guns/017.jpg

http://i1031.photobucket.com/albums/y372/straykiller/guns/019.jpg

http://i1031.photobucket.com/albums/y372/straykiller/guns/018.jpg

cdownin
09-10-2010, 9:43 AM
Those are some great pictures I really appreciate them...

As far as the side rails go I will be plug welding them with my mig welder I have a small peice of copper pipe I will be cutting up slightly to back the weld up so I don't burn through as an emergency precation cause I want a good bond but I know personally how easy it is to burn through sheet metal because I have done panel replacement and exhaust welding on my vehicles.. From what I have read you should drill a 1/8 hole in the rail and a 1/4 inch hole in the reciever but probably won't drill a complete 1/4 inch whole but will counter sink it pretty good to give the weld more bonding surface between the two pieces...

Im waiting on the machine shop to get me my bending block back so I can bend the receiver and get this on the road they have had it for 3 days now and I all I needed was the 4 holed drilled so I can bolt the receiver between the two pieces for a good bend, I will get pics up as soon as I get her done I will probably just do it myself and let the machine shop keep those pieces...

I got the bolt cutters modded to do the front rivets and I got the front rivets demilled and one of the rear rivet out which are pretty hard to get out

Roccobro
09-10-2010, 12:11 PM
I just tack welded my rails in 5 places. No rosette welds yet. I just don't want to swiss cheese my receiver. :)

Justin

cdownin
09-10-2010, 6:52 PM
okay so the machine shop told me after three days of waiting they couldn't do it because I said it was for building a gun b*tches anyway so i just went on base to the arts and crafts center and used their drill press and the results were favorable but two whole didn't line up on my pressing block but I will just redrill on monday but I got the trunions done which is what was really hard so I'm happy I could try pressing it will the two bolt holes holding the top plate but im not gonna press my luck on this ghetto build I know the receiver needs to be straight and I don't want to risk it moving over something so simple so until monday but it all seems like down hill from this point.....

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/cdownin/photo-4.jpg

cdownin
09-11-2010, 6:11 AM
I just tack welded my rails in 5 places. No rosette welds yet. I just don't want to swiss cheese my receiver. :)

Justin

did you tack them on the outer edges?

Roccobro
09-11-2010, 7:12 AM
Yes, front and back first, then three at various spots that provide easy access and good strength.

Justin

cdownin
09-14-2010, 2:55 PM
Here is how the flat came out i'm pleased but it is bowed slightly because my jig doesn't release the flat without bending it back out slightly but hopefully this doesn't affect the aim. Im glad to have taken up a new hobby....
calguns4life:cool2:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/cdownin/photo-9.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/cdownin/photo-8.jpg

straykiller
09-14-2010, 3:26 PM
congrats man looks good im sure you could get that bow out if you wanted to, have fun with your new found addiction lol, keep us updated on your build progress.

nicoroshi
09-14-2010, 3:48 PM
Okay cool I wanna see em.. I'm done with this press/gig might paint it later but its done now
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/cdownin/photo-3.jpg

and I was thinking about doing this for the No go/Go gauges...
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk170/fredieusa/Second/AK/Virgin%20Stamped%20Yugo%20M70AB2/Bolt%20and%20Barrel/100_1002.jpg

I think im going to do mostly rivets and screw the trigger gard on but now I am waiting for the pressing block to get drilled and I will start modding the 24" bolt cutters im going to use to rivet it and I got a propane torche to heat treat wish me luck im "blazin" a trail... LOL

Waiting to see tha pics:D

Propane will not get hot enough to heat treat (don't ask me how I know :p).
Buy a bottle of MAPP gas that will screw right onto the torch head you use for the propane. MAPP gas will get hot enough.

I have also found that 3 layers of scotch tape is .005" when measured but still smaller than the NO-GO gauge I have. The issue is the tape can compress some whereas the actual NO-GO gauge cannot.
I now use a live round (without firing pin, and extractor installed of course) as a GO gauge, and the Forster NO-GO gauge to set headspace on a barrel.
The NO-GO gauge is worth the investment IMHO.

I also use a mig welder to weld my interior rails in.
I have found that a tack on the interior at the front, back, couple places in the mag well area, and one or two places at the bottom below the center support hold the rail nicely, and doesn't muck up the exterior of the receiver too bad.
I get some penetration on the weld that shows on the exterior but it cleans up easily with a file.
Any weld bleed over above the interior rail can be cleaned up (flattened to the top of the rail) with a dremel. HINT: The bolt does not go all the way across the interior rails from receiver side to side so a bit of the weld can be left above the top rail at the front, and back of the interior rail without affecting function.

(slightly out of focus [stupid camera] but you get the idea. Do the same on the back):
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/489/dscn4380p.jpg

Interior places I mig weld for interior rails:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7526/dscn4383x.jpg

cdownin
09-14-2010, 5:02 PM
congrats man looks good im sure you could get that bow out if you wanted to, have fun with your new found addiction lol, keep us updated on your build progress.

Your right I could probably just heat it and tap it slightly... Thanks will do:D

cdownin
09-14-2010, 5:12 PM
Propane will not get hot enough to heat treat (don't ask me how I know :p).
Buy a bottle of MAPP gas that will screw right onto the torch head you use for the propane. MAPP gas will get hot enough.

I have also found that 3 layers of scotch tape is .005" when measured but still smaller than the NO-GO gauge I have. The issue is the tape can compress some whereas the actual NO-GO gauge cannot.
I now use a live round (without firing pin, and extractor installed of course) as a GO gauge, and the Forster NO-GO gauge to set headspace on a barrel.
The NO-GO gauge is worth the investment IMHO.

I also use a mig welder to weld my interior rails in.
I have found that a tack on the interior at the front, back, couple places in the mag well area, and one or two places at the bottom below the center support hold the rail nicely, and doesn't muck up the exterior of the receiver too bad.
I get some penetration on the weld that shows on the exterior but it cleans up easily with a file.
Any weld bleed over above the interior rail can be cleaned up (flattened to the top of the rail) with a dremel. HINT: The bolt does not go all the way across the interior rails from receiver side to side so a bit of the weld can be left above the top rail at the front, and back of the interior rail without affecting function.

(slightly out of focus [stupid camera] but you get the idea. Do the same on the back):
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/489/dscn4380p.jpg

Interior places I mig weld for interior rails:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7526/dscn4383x.jpg

Thanks so much for the pictures of the rails I didn't know you could do them on the top I will have to get busy tomorrow and get that done,

About the Mapp gas thanks for that hint too I would have been burning for hours wondering why its not turning orange:43:

As for the No go/Go gauges I'm sure they are worth the money I will probably break down and buy one but it will just take me some more time...

DREADNOUGHT78
09-14-2010, 5:22 PM
Propane will not get hot enough to heat treat (don't ask me how I know :p).
Buy a bottle of MAPP gas that will screw right onto the torch head you use for the propane. MAPP gas will get hot enough.

I have also found that 3 layers of scotch tape is .005" when measured but still smaller than the NO-GO gauge I have. The issue is the tape can compress some whereas the actual NO-GO gauge cannot.
I now use a live round (without firing pin, and extractor installed of course) as a GO gauge, and the Forster NO-GO gauge to set headspace on a barrel.
The NO-GO gauge is worth the investment IMHO.

I also use a mig welder to weld my interior rails in.
I have found that a tack on the interior at the front, back, couple places in the mag well area, and one or two places at the bottom below the center support hold the rail nicely, and doesn't muck up the exterior of the receiver too bad.
I get some penetration on the weld that shows on the exterior but it cleans up easily with a file.
Any weld bleed over above the interior rail can be cleaned up (flattened to the top of the rail) with a dremel. HINT: The bolt does not go all the way across the interior rails from receiver side to side so a bit of the weld can be left above the top rail at the front, and back of the interior rail without affecting function.

(slightly out of focus [stupid camera] but you get the idea. Do the same on the back):
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/489/dscn4380p.jpg

Interior places I mig weld for interior rails:
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7526/dscn4383x.jpg

On my AK74 I did something similar to this as I still have not got my tong for my spot welder. I drilled 1/4 inch holes (after scribing the locations) in the receiver and using the MIG welder to plug weld the rails in. Worked real nice but if your not careful and patient you could warp the crap out of the receiver.

nicoroshi
09-14-2010, 5:34 PM
I have plug welded a few also but never could get the side of the receiver smooth again (ended up dimpling in around the plug weld because of the heat, and I didn't want to grind too much on a 1mm receiver). Welding from the inside like this I end up with a little penetration on the exterior of the receiver but I am able to smooth that out.

cdownin,
What's your location?
If in the Bay Area I'll let you borrow my No-Go for 7.62x39 when you need to use it.

Roccobro
09-14-2010, 5:53 PM
Nico, You scared the $h..crap out of me! I saw those pictures and COULD HAVE SWORE you pulled those from my photobucket account! Those rail welds are IDENTICAL to those I did a few weeks ago on 2 builds. :D

Now back to our regularly scheduled AK fun!

Justin

nicoroshi
09-14-2010, 5:57 PM
Nico, You scared the $h..crap out of me! I saw those pictures and COULD HAVE SWORE you pulled those from my photobucket account! Those rail welds are IDENTICAL to those I did a few weeks ago on 2 builds. :D

Now back to our regularly scheduled AK fun!

Justin

ROFLMAO!
Great minds think alike I guess.
If your build doesn't look like this>>>>>>>>>>

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/4039/dscn4379f.jpg

Then you have nothing to worry about (BTW images uploaded to imageshack on my end as well).

straykiller
09-14-2010, 6:05 PM
[QUOTE=nicoroshi;4957939]Propane will not get hot enough to heat treat (don't ask me how I know )/QUOTE]

i used propane to heat treat my rails and fcg holes, but i also bought a big *** screw on torch head lol, i heated the rails up until they were bright orange and held it there for a bit, quenched and then to anneal them i put them in a little metal bowl and covered em up with dot 3 brake fluid and burned it off, the brake fluid burns off at around 750 degrees and takes about 30 min so it anneals evenly, it seemed to work real well so far, not a bit of wear showing on the ejector tip

Roccobro
09-14-2010, 6:09 PM
ROFLMAO!
Great minds think alike I guess.
If your build doesn't look like this>>>>>>>>>>

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/4039/dscn4379f.jpg

Then you have nothing to worry about (BTW images uploaded to imageshack on my end as well).

Not yet. Park arrives tomorrow in the mail and I Still need to tig my stainless tank ends on.

Justin

nicoroshi
09-14-2010, 6:18 PM
Propane will not get hot enough to heat treat (don't ask me how I know )

i used propane to heat treat my rails and fcg holes, but i also bought a big *** screw on torch head lol, i heated the rails up until they were bright orange and held it there for a bit, quenched and then to anneal them i put them in a little metal bowl and covered em up with dot 3 brake fluid and burned it off, the brake fluid burns off at around 750 degrees and takes about 30 min so it anneals evenly, it seemed to work real well so far, not a bit of wear showing on the ejector tip


Perfect way to get an even and correct temperature anneal.
With my first build (although I warned you not to ask :p) I tried, and tried with propane but the ejector would always peen after about 100 or so rounds.
It was suggested to me that propane would not get hot enough, and also recommended that I use MAPP gas.
No issues since.
I would love to see that torch head you're using as I was convinced that propane just couldn't do the job (from personal experience as well as web research).
I have been known to be wrong before though.....Darn 'only human' thing keeps holding me back.:(

cdownin
09-14-2010, 7:11 PM
Nicoroshi
Im out in the no man lands of Utah I just heard about this site and thought i would join cause Im going to move back to cali if I get this job at the new Ontario home depot distribution center....

That all black pistol build is pretty sick I like it alot :drool5:

Roccobro
Wish I could Tig thats a whole other addiction/hobby...


And I just want to confirm that the spot welds won't ruin the heat treating? I hear alot of this rumor but maybe you guys heat treat it after you tack them in I dunno I have read to many different things...

tujungatoes
09-14-2010, 8:10 PM
And I just want to confirm that the spot welds won't ruin the heat treating? I hear alot of this rumor but maybe you guys heat treat it after you tack them in I dunno I have read to many different things...

shouldn't be a problem. but if you get it too hot, it's easy enough to touch up the ejector in place.

straykiller
09-14-2010, 8:20 PM
Perfect way to get an even and correct temperature anneal.
With my first build (although I warned you not to ask :p) I tried, and tried with propane but the ejector would always peen after about 100 or so rounds.
It was suggested to me that propane would not get hot enough, and also recommended that I use MAPP gas.
No issues since.
I would love to see that torch head you're using as I was convinced that propane just couldn't do the job (from personal experience as well as web research).
I have been known to be wrong before though.....Darn 'only human' thing keeps holding me back.:(

ya that method seemed to have worked pretty well, ill throw up a pic here in a bit of the torch head, its nothing crazy but defiantly bigger than the other torch heads I have used on a propane bottle

Nicoroshi
Im out in the no man lands of Utah I just heard about this site and thought i would join cause Im going to move back to cali

DOOOOOONTTT Do it lol, after i finish college im moving to utah and never looking back.

cdownin
09-14-2010, 8:30 PM
shouldn't be a problem. but if you get it too hot, it's easy enough to touch up the ejector in place.

Thanks for clearing that up

By the way nice build I researched the 2xtm and its pretty cool...

Roccobro
09-14-2010, 10:08 PM
Nicoroshi
Im out in the no man lands of Utah I just heard about this site and thought i would join cause Im going to move back to cali if I get this job at the new Ontario home depot distribution center....

That all black pistol build is pretty sick I like it alot :drool5:

Roccobro
Wish I could Tig thats a whole other addiction/hobby...


And I just want to confirm that the spot welds won't ruin the heat treating? I hear alot of this rumor but maybe you guys heat treat it after you tack them in I dunno I have read to many different things...

If that happens, we will be neighbors. No, you can't borrow my new AK tools! :p

Justin

cdownin
09-15-2010, 12:30 PM
lets hope so!!!