PDA

View Full Version : How to Refinish an AK stock


AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:41 AM
Ok guys, this is my first ever tutorial I've done on anything, ever so I hope it turns out ok and you guys are able to use some of the info provided here. This is only my second stock that I've refinished, the first one came out so nice I wanted to share with everyone so here goes.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/1JPG.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/1.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/2.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/3.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/4.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/5.jpg

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:42 AM
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/6.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/7.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/8.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/10.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/11.jpg

It has been recomended by another member that you not use your wife or GF's toothbrush, do so at your own risk! Personally I like my wife when she's mad, it's kinda hot.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/94JPG.jpg

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:43 AM
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/95JPG.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/96JPG.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/97JPG.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/98JPG.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/99JPG.jpg

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:43 AM
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/1-1.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/2-1.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/3-1.jpg
After this 30-40 minute "soak period" I recommend scrubbing the entire surface with the toothbrush to loosen up and remove any remaining varnish that didn't come off the first time around. THEN rinse with HOT water as before and the stock should be completely clean.


If you have any dents in the wood this is the point where you would steam them out. Steaming is a simple process, you will need a bucket of water, a nice, clean, cotton rag (I use the ones from Costco), and an iron. Just completely soak the rag in the water and then fold the rag in half so you have two layers and set it right over the dent, press the hot iron onto the rag and hold it there for 20 seconds or so. Check your progress and repeat as needed untill all dents are lifted out. Remember to keep the rag wet so it will steam every time and set the iron to the highest setting too. Allow to dry for 24 hours after this step before sanding. Here's some pics of the process.

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/Seaworld025.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/Seaworld026.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/Seaworld028.jpg

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:52 AM
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/Seaworld033.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/AKstock001.jpg
Here it is after it has completely dried for 24 hours, it has not yet been sanded at this point.

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/AKstock005.jpg
Here's a side by side with the first one I refinished.

And another of the first one I did.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/AKstock003.jpg
I should have taken pics while working on that one but didn't know how it would turn out so I didn't.

Sand the entire stock going with the grain with 100 or 120 grit being very careful not to remove much wood near any edges where metal buts up against the wood and also near the vents of the handguards. If you aren't careful you could cause the wood to not line up nicely with the metal parts and it will be noticeable. If you are going to refinish the metal parts you may want to put them back on for the sanding stages but beware, they will need to be refinished if you do this.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/akstocks013.jpg

After sanding the entire stock with 100 to where the colors, grains and imperfections are how you want them switch to 220 grit and again sand the entire stock going with the grain as much as possible. If you try to just sand problem areas with 100 and then the entire stock with 220 it will not look as good when your done.
Once sanding is done remove all dust with a clean rag or compressed air.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/akstocks011.jpg

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:53 AM
Next step is to pre treat the wood for staining, for this I used the Minwax wood conditioner. The idea is to make the wood absorb the stain more evenly. Apply with a strip of an old t shirt and let soak for at least 15-20 minutes and then apply the first coat of stain within 2 hours (directions on the can).
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/akstocks014.jpg


For the stain I used minwax Gunstock #231 but there are lots of different shades available. I used another strip of the t-shirt to apply a nice heavy coat of stain to the entire stock.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/akstocks021.jpg

After 20 minutes I used another clean strip of the shirt to wipe off the excess stain and then allow the stock to dry for 6 hours before the next coat of stain.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/akstocks018.jpg

Just wanted to point out the numbers here, if you have numbers you want to preserve be very carefull around them while sanding or tape over them with painters tape. It is ok to sand over them a little but just be very gentle and only use the finest sandpaper you intend to use on the rest of the wood. I think the numbers are actually easier to see/read after the refinishing process.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/akstocks019.jpg

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:54 AM
I did 5 coats to get it to the color I wanted. For the clear coat I used Minwax wipe on poly.

For the wipe on poly it went like this, first coat with t-shirt strip then wait at least 3 hours.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/AKTutorials006.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/AKTutorials005.jpg

Here it is with i nice thick wet coat of the poly.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/AKTutorials007.jpg

After each coat of clear is completly dry, sand entire stock with 0000 steel wool.
Steel wool sanding pic here....Notice the dull finish after the dried poly has been sanded.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK%20stocks%202/001.jpg

Next blow off with air and wipe down with clean t-shirt strip then apply another coat of wipe on poly. I did 5 coats and I really like the way it looks.
Applying 2nd coat of clear here.....

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:55 AM
Please note that there are other options including true oil from birchwood casey and lin seed oil which are both highly recommended from others who have used them to refinish stocks. Whatever you choose, just follow the directions and you'll be fine.

UPDATE
Here's a Bulgarian AK74 stock I've been working on. One thing I'll mention is I was able to skip the scraping with the buisness card step on this set. I went straight to the tooth brush and did the citristrip twice.

Original used condition
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks1000.jpg

After stripping and sanding
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks1001.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks1002.jpg

After 4 coats of stain and 4 coats of poly
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks1004.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks1005.jpg

Completed Rifle
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/CCBP2010/CCBP018.jpg

AIMSMALL
07-14-2010, 12:56 AM
First time using Tung oil, this is after 4 coats. The process is a little more tedious then the wipe on poly in my opinion and I think I like the way the poly looks a little better too. For the Tung oil you do everything the same up untill the staining is all done then you wipe it on and wait 5-15 minutes then buff it off with a clean strip of an old t-shirt. I found that the tung oil would get very tacky after 6 or 7 minutes making it really hard to buff off so I immediately added a fresh coat of tung oil and then buffed it right away. That made buffing easy and worked very well.

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks040.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks1006.jpg

The thing I liked better about the process for the poly was that you just wipe it on and let it dry, no buffing off wet sticky oil. The trade off is that you will need to buff the dry poly coats with steel wool before each additional coat can be applied, with the tung oil you just add another coat. The poly process seemed to be easier overall because I was able to work for a few minutes then walk away and come back to it whenever I wanted. With the Tung oil you have to commit to the time it takes to get thru first coating the furniture, then waiting 5-15 minutes, then re-coat to break the stickyness, then buff.

8bitnintendo
07-14-2010, 9:07 AM
Curse you, this makes it look easy enough (though time consuming) that I want to refinish my stocks now! I was content with them originally, but they've got a few dings to the finish...

Rem222
07-14-2010, 9:12 AM
Thanks for the information. I have a old stock I will try this on.....

WTSGDYBBR
07-14-2010, 9:16 AM
Good thread . I want to re stain my Draco to a cherry deep wood color . Thanks for the pictures.

NorCalDustin
07-14-2010, 10:39 AM
Great tutorial! I wonder if this could count as a 922r part now that you have made a good deal of changes... Probably not... dunno


Also, for those who want a custom finish or different finish on their AK Stock but dont really want to carve out a new set or strip what they already have... Checkout this CA based company: http://www.ironwooddesigns.com

Z ME FLY
07-14-2010, 10:43 AM
Great tutorial! I wonder if this could count as a 922r part now that you have made a good deal of changes... Probably not... dunno


Also, for those who want a custom finish or different finish on their AK Stock but dont really want to carve out a new set or strip what they already have... Checkout this CA based company: http://www.ironwooddesigns.com

No it would not count as 922r parts because he is just refinishing the stock and not making a new one. If he had make a new one out of a piece of wood then I can see it being used for the 922r parts.

NorCalDustin
07-14-2010, 10:59 AM
No it would not count as 922r parts because he is just refinishing the stock and not making a new one. If he had make a new one out of a piece of wood then I can see it being used for the 922r parts.

I figured... So, is there anything that I should do to the stock I am making to prove it was made in the US? It may sound silly, :D but how would I prove that I made it in the US? Thoughts?

Z ME FLY
07-14-2010, 11:06 AM
I figured... So, is there anything that I should do to the stock I am making to prove it was made in the US? It may sound silly, :D but how would I prove that I made it in the US? Thoughts?

I am honestly not sure about it. Maybe email Ironwood to see if they have any markings on the inside. Or just make it out of some different kind of wood the aks didn't use. I'm sure someone will come up with a lot better answer than me.

E-120
07-14-2010, 11:16 AM
No way to prove it if there are no markings. On the other hand you can't prove it is us made. Us compliance parts all seam to have a us stamp on them.

Z ME FLY
07-14-2010, 11:20 AM
No way to prove it if there are no markings. On the other hand you can't prove it is us made. Us compliance parts all seam to have a us stamp on them.

I mean no one has EVER gotten busted over 922R parts and probably the DA or legal system doesn't care but you never want to be THAT GUY who got charged..

NorCalDustin
07-14-2010, 12:01 PM
True that...

Norm222
07-14-2010, 8:19 PM
Very nice. I'm going to want to do mine now.

AIMSMALL
07-19-2010, 4:10 PM
Did a few updates on the tutorial today. It's still got a few more things needed to finish it but I guess I'll just have to wait for the stain to dry before I can proceed.

7,62x39
07-20-2010, 9:46 PM
Awesome aimsmall....i havent refinished my romy kit yet, and this will help a lot....i definitely want to keep the black stripe on the buttstock though, do you have any recommendations of paint to use for that?

AIMSMALL
07-20-2010, 10:40 PM
I would measure the black stripe before stripping then tape it with blue painters tape after the first coat of clear. Next I would do a few coats of spray paint, gloss black duplicolor from the autoparts store. Then I'd go thru the clearcoat process as described already.

I haven't tried this method yet because I didn't really care about the black stripe but thats how I would do it.

Maybe I'll throw a stripe down on one that I'm working on just for fun...I'll keep you posted.

Good luck with your project, post a pic after you get it all done!

Hey E-120 whats your take on the stripe?

E-120
07-20-2010, 10:55 PM
I have done a few Romy G stocks. My trick is to stain the wood then apply a coat of clear. After it dries adequately I mask off the stripe and paint it on with a semi gloss black. I then re clear the stock 2 to 3 more times.
The real rifles appear to be simple flat black stripes that are dipped. I say this because if you look inside of the stock with the butt plate off you should see a black ring of paint in it. If you have all ready removed the paint on the outside this is a easy way to figure out how far to go to repaint.
If the entire process is to much for you I do have finished Romy G stocks for sale.
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq147/dhc-60/stock3.jpg

7,62x39
07-21-2010, 1:13 AM
thanks for the help guys, its probably gonna be about a month before i get a chance to work on it, but as soon as its done i'll let you guys know and post a picture here

AndrewMendez
07-21-2010, 10:09 AM
Nice. I refinished my mosin is almost the same exact fashion. I never knew you could remove the dents like that though, I have to try it.

AIMSMALL
07-21-2010, 10:53 AM
Nice. I refinished my mosin is almost the same exact fashion. I never knew you could remove the dents like that though, I have to try it.

Yeah, I did that on the first one and it worked great, the second one did not have any dents in it so I was unable to take pictures of that part of the process. If I get anything with dents I plan to update the post above with pics.

Edit: added dent removal to post #4

AndrewMendez
07-21-2010, 12:34 PM
Yeah, I did that on the first one and it worked great, the second one did not have any dents in it so I was unable to take pictures of that part of the process. If I get anything with dents I plan to update the post above with pics.

Thanks!! I appreciate it! I am thinking about doing an AK and finishing it with a purple-ish finish for my GF.

CSACANNONEER
07-21-2010, 12:47 PM
Awesome write up! Great pics! This needs to be a sticky!!!! The only thing I'd add is that you should not use your wife's or GF's toothbrush unless you like caustic chemicals in her mouth. I would not want those caustic chemical to be there when she put other things in her mouth. I'd use an ex's brush but not a current one.

AIMSMALL
07-21-2010, 1:01 PM
Awesome write up! Great pics! This needs to be a sticky!!!! The only thing I'd add is that you should not use your wife's or GF's toothbrush unless you like caustic chemicals in her mouth. I would not want those caustic chemical to be there when she put other things in her mouth. I'd use an ex's brush but not a current one.

Thanks for the advice! I'll make the changes :D

hypnoman
07-25-2010, 6:59 PM
Awesome work!!

AIMSMALL
07-25-2010, 9:39 PM
Awesome work!!

Thanks!, Stay tuned, there will be more pics coming this week. :)

johnthomas
07-25-2010, 10:46 PM
This past month I refinished a sears 22 semi-auto rifle, 22 bolt action rifle, 12 gauge bolt action shotgun and a Mosin Nagant 91/30.
I myself, use Birchwood Casey Trueoil. I use spray orange stripper.
On all the weapons I used birchwood Casey cold blue.
A few years ago I refinished a huge oak table using Minwax wipe
on finish and have thought about trying it on guns. I like the wood to shine, your finish looks semi gloss which looks perfect.
Your project tutorial is great, thanks for all the extra work you did with the pictures and text. I'm thinking I will try the minwax on my next project.

ALSystems
07-26-2010, 10:22 PM
Great work!:cool: I look forward to more photos.

Thanks!, Stay tuned, there will be more pics coming this week. :)

AIMSMALL
07-27-2010, 1:15 AM
Added pics to post #7, two more needed for that section will be added tomorrow.

luckystrike
07-27-2010, 2:17 AM
nice, I just got done with my romy stocks a few weeks ago, I shaved off the vertical grip. did you use 'early american' minwax too?

AIMSMALL
07-27-2010, 2:40 AM
nice, I just got done with my romy stocks a few weeks ago, I shaved off the vertical grip. did you use 'early american' minwax too?

I used " Gunstock #231" for the stain. Feel free to post up a pic of your work!

NorCalDustin
07-27-2010, 7:59 PM
Have you ever bleached a stock?

AIMSMALL
07-27-2010, 10:08 PM
Have you ever bleached a stock?

No I haven't, PM E-120, maybe he has but I'd be surprised, it's not common practice to bleach these types of stocks.

johnthomas
07-28-2010, 12:54 AM
I looked up wood bleaching. It is an interesting idea. Here is a few bleaching solutions I found.

Oxalic Acid Bleach. Oxalic acid can be secured from any drug store and from paint store stocks in dry crystal form. Usually a saturated solution is made by dissolving as much of the acid crystals in a gallon of water as the water will take up. Hot water is best and the solution is more effective when put on to the surface to be bleached while it is very hot. Use an old flat wall brush or calcimine brush to apply the solution and let it dry on the surface. For bleaching weather stains and also dark sap streaks in wood 8 ounces of oxalic acid in two quarts of water is about right. If the first application of bleach does not remove the dis-colorations or make the whole surface as light as you want it, apply the same solution hot a second time or repeat several times.

When sap streaks or whole surfaces to be bleached are greasy, wipe them off by rubbing with denatured alcohol and let dry before the bleaching solution is put on.

Chlorinated Soda Bleach. When dissolved in water chlorinated soda makes an effective bleach, especially if followed by a solution of peroxide of hydrogen. To make chlorinated soda proceed as follows:

Solution A.

10 ounces sal soda, dissolved in 20 ounces of water.

Solution B.

5 ounces ordinary chloride of lime (household).
12 ounces of water.

Mix well by stirring and allow the solution to settle.
Pour off the clear liquid into another vessel and there will be a sediment in the bottom of the first container.
Add to the first container 12 ounces more of water; stir well; let settle and pour off the clear liquid again into the second vessel.
Now add a little more water, an ounce or two, to the sediment remaining- in the first vessel and strain the solution after mixing through filter paper or silk into the second vessel.

Solution C.

Mix solutions A and B together and you should have a clear liquid bleach of a greenish color having a faint odor of chlorine and a strong alkaline taste.
Use this bleaching solution hot and brush on with an old flat wall brush; let dry; wash up with clear water.

Peroxide of Hydrogen Bleach. This chemical is a positive acting bleach when freshly made. It is a little expensive when large quantities are needed for large areas of surface. For small stains on patches and spots it is entirely practical. Brush on and allow to dry. Wash up with clear water.

Hydro-Sulphite of Soda Bleach. When used in a 10 per cent solution,10 ounces of this chemical to 90 ounces of water, it makes an excellent bleach. Brush on one or several coats to the wood to be bleached. Let each coat dry, however, before another is put on. Wash up with clear water.

Chlorinated Lime Bleach. For bleaching walnut especially, as well as other woods, the ordinary household chloride of lime dissolved in water and brushed on to wood is excellent.

Permanganate of Potash Bleach. This chemical dissolved in water and used of varying strengths makes a good bleach. The wood will have a purple hue when dry. Apply with a brush. When the above solution is dry put on a second wash made by dissolving hyposulphite of soda in water, a saturated solution. This is the solution used by photographers for a fixing bath. A 5 per cent solution of oxalic acid in water is also effective as a second wash over permanganate of potash.

NorCalDustin
07-28-2010, 1:12 AM
I've used 2 part hydrogen peroxide for certain projects in the past... But never on a gun stock... So, I dunno...

AIMSMALL
07-28-2010, 2:45 AM
Have you ever bleached a stock?

If you try it, please take some pictures along the way, I know this slows down the project quite a bit but it seems that it might benifit some other calgunners.

NorCalDustin
07-28-2010, 4:02 PM
Yeah... I'll probably do that.

I was craving out my stock but when I was stepping the holes inside the butt-stock it cracked it apart on both sides. I could save it, but it's just not going to look as amazing so I'll have start over at a later date. I was so disappointed when it happened, but that's the risk I was running..


Anyway, I already started stripping my original stock... I've done 5 stripping runs so far and the wood is still really dark. I'll probably get what I need to do a 2 part hydrogen peroxide bleach tomorrow.

munkeeboi
07-28-2010, 4:12 PM
I just happened to have bleached a Bulgy furniture last night. just used 25% bleach (clorox) to 75% hot water...soaked it for a few hours until I got the results that I wanted. Didn't take pictures of the pre-bleached wood, but it was a darker stained furniture set. Went through the 2 citristrip processes and it was still a bit "stained". It is a spare set, so I figured I'd try bleaching now. pics up when I get home.

NorCalDustin
07-28-2010, 5:38 PM
Sweet...

So you did do the 2 Citristrip's BEFORE bleaching right?

AIMSMALL
07-28-2010, 8:32 PM
Sweet...

So you did do the 2 Citristrip's BEFORE bleaching right?

Yeah he did, at least that what I read. Can't wait to see the pics!

NorCalDustin
07-28-2010, 9:08 PM
Yeah he did, at least that what I read. Can't wait to see the pics!

Yeah, thats how i read it too...

Anyway, I cant wait to see it either... I'll do before/afters of mine as well... I'll get what I need tomorrow.

munkeeboi
07-29-2010, 5:45 PM
sorry been having internet problems at home today...Yes...citristrip first then bleach. gets the varnish or shellac off so you can bleach the wood. keep in mind that these were hardwood pieces, not sure how laminates would hold up to being soaked for hours. May be fine, but I havn't tried it.

Now it's time to sand.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/munkeeboi/bang/IMG_7692-1.jpg

AIMSMALL
08-02-2010, 8:51 PM
AIMSMALL, THE WIPE ON POLY, IS THAT SATIN, SEMI GLOSS OR GLOSS?

It is "clear satin".

AIMSMALL
08-02-2010, 8:52 PM
Also just a heads up, I have a top hand guard that has some dents in it so I will be adding the dent removal with the iron steps in the next few days.

AIMSMALL
08-07-2010, 11:39 PM
Ok pics of dent removal are up on post #4 and #5.

69Mach1
08-07-2010, 11:46 PM
Great Job! I love Citristrip.

AIMSMALL
08-08-2010, 12:01 AM
Thanks Mach, I have aspirations of adding some bakelite refinishing on here too. Once I finish my top handguard I'll throw it on the rifle you helped me with last weekend and throw some pics of the completed rifle on here.

69Mach1
08-08-2010, 12:02 AM
Thanks Mach, I have aspirations of adding some bakelite refinishing on here too. Once I finish my top handguard I'll throw it on the rifle you helped me with last weekend and throw some pics of the completed rifle on here.

bakelite refinishing! can't wait.

BLD
09-10-2010, 9:32 PM
Great tutorial. I'm using your method to do my Romy stock. I cut off the donkey dong since my rifle is featureless, and am using the cutoff portion to test out different stain. The first coat is drying as we speak. After looking at samples I bought a can of the Gunstock 231, and a can of Sedona Red 222. Right now I like the way the Red looks, but I may use the Gunstock as a base coat and go over it several times with the Red to try and simulate a nice dark Russian Red kind of color. Hopefully I'll be finished in a couple of weeks. My schedule is pretty hectic right now.

Thanks again for the great tutorial which gave me the inspiration to try this.

AIMSMALL
09-10-2010, 10:29 PM
:) please feel free to post some pics of your project.

Travis8128
09-11-2010, 10:51 AM
:) please feel free to post some pics of your project.
just finished coat four.

Once its all done i will post it.

Your guide has been very helpful. I feel like a professional haha.

BLD
09-11-2010, 4:12 PM
Here's a pic of it after 2nd coat of Sedona Red. In the sun the pic shows more red than you see in person. I'm thinking of using some Rit Dye in Scarlet Red to finish it. What do you think.

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll375/BigB01/005.jpg

For the wipe on poly, did you just wipe it on and wait for it to dry, or did you actually rub the poly into the wood?

AIMSMALL
09-11-2010, 8:03 PM
Here's a pic of it after 2nd coat of Sedona Red. In the sun the pic shows more red than you see in person. I'm thinking of using some Rit Dye in Scarlet Red to finish it. What do you think.

For the wipe on poly, did you just wipe it on and wait for it to dry, or did you actually rub the poly into the wood?

If you want to change the color a bit more with the rit dye go for it, it's your gun. I think it's looking real nice so far!

The poly needs to be "wiped on" with an old t-shirt and then let it dry, hit it with steel wool between coats too. I think the "rubbing in" is more for the stain then the poly coats.

BLD
09-16-2010, 5:00 PM
As promised here are the pics of the finished furniture. 3 coats of Sedona Red 222 and 5 coats of Clear Satin Wipe on Poly and voila...

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll375/BigB01/001-1.jpg

This pic doesn't show as much red as you see in person. I was going to try and get a more reddish color, but when I compared it to my 91/30 the color was very close. They turned out so nice I'm not sure my AK is worthy of them. I may just have to build another. :43:

Thanks again Aimsmall, your method worked out great.

AIMSMALL
09-16-2010, 5:31 PM
Looks Good!

Shady
09-16-2010, 5:50 PM
thanks AIM
next time you refinish a set try using a wood scraper
instead of sandpaper
it opens the pores of the wood more
and lets it absorb the stain better

cabinetguy
09-27-2010, 11:22 AM
great post, as a guy who spends most of his days working with and finishing wood, i would like to add one step and one emphasis. when you steam wood, as you said, make sure the wood is completely dry before sanding/staining. if you dont, the wood will shrink and you are left with a bigger dent. second, after using steel wool there will be all sorts of tiny peices of metal that can mess up a finish. a good way to get them all is buy a good magnet from the hardware store (i use a 10 pack of neomydium magnets, maybe $5), wrap them in a rag and wipe, the magnets will pick up the metal dust, so it doesnt get in the finish.
great post and good luck

AIMSMALL
09-27-2010, 6:54 PM
great post, as a guy who spends most of his days working with and finishing wood, i would like to add one step and one emphasis. when you steam wood, as you said, make sure the wood is completely dry before sanding/staining. if you dont, the wood will shrink and you are left with a bigger dent. second, after using steel wool there will be all sorts of tiny peices of metal that can mess up a finish. a good way to get them all is buy a good magnet from the hardware store (i use a 10 pack of neomydium magnets, maybe $5), wrap them in a rag and wipe, the magnets will pick up the metal dust, so it doesnt get in the finish.
great post and good luck

Yeah good idea with the magnet, I usually just blow it off with compressed air and then wipe with a clean strip of an old t-shirt, and yeah let the wood dry up all the way before doing anything else to it.

I just got done refinishing another Romy G furniture set and a Bulgy ak74 set too, I'll add some pics to show the different color stain I used on the Bulgy and I used Tung oil instead of wipe on Poly on the Romy kit. While the tung oil does give a nice finish, I still think I like the wipe on poly a little better.

AIMSMALL
09-27-2010, 6:56 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Posts # 8 and #9 have been updated with new pictures, will edit later to include more "how to info" and stain color info.




Hey Munk, did you ever finish that stock you bleached, We're still waiting on Pics :) as well as stain and clear coat info.




..

Dreaded Claymore
10-27-2010, 9:54 PM
I would measure the black stripe before stripping then tape it with blue painters tape after the first coat of clear. Next I would do a few coats of spray paint, gloss black duplicolor from the autoparts store. Then I'd go thru the clearcoat process as described already.

Why after the first clear coat? Wouldn't paint stick better to bare wood?

Great tutorial. I'm using your method to do my Romy stock. I cut off the donkey dong since my rifle is featureless, and am using the cutoff portion to test out different stain.

"Donkey dong," hahahahaha.

AIMSMALL
10-28-2010, 6:58 AM
Because the paint will "seep" past the tape due to the grains in the wood, plus you're going to clear over it anyway.

E-120
11-02-2010, 9:49 PM
I stained a set of Bulgy furniture today. On coat two of stain right now. Your method with the rag to wipe on the stain is much better than my previous attempts with a paint brush.

WTSGDYBBR
12-08-2010, 1:52 PM
Wanted to thank AIMSMALL for the how too's . Came out great!!! I did buy some more different types of stain to play around with .

Dark Walnut 2716
Sedona Red 222
Ebony 2718


1:Citristrip for 30 mins first coat.

2:Citristrip over night.

3:Let the wood dry for 24 hours before sanding.

4:Sanded with 100 Grit Then Sanded with 320 Grit. Next time will do 100,220,320.

5:Added MinxWax Pre-Stain

6:withen 2 hours added my first coat of Gunstock #231 let it dry for 6 hours.

7:Added 4 more coats waiting 6 hours after each coat. Total of 5 coats.

8:Added the Minwax Wipe On Poly 5 coats waiting 2 hours each coat and sanding with 00000 steel wool each coat.





http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af133/wtsgdybbr/PICT0280.jpg

mrlonewolf
12-08-2010, 2:02 PM
They look great.

Congrats.

E-120
12-08-2010, 9:51 PM
Very Nice.

gunn
12-09-2010, 9:17 AM
If the original clearcoat varnish is totally gone from the wood, I recommend using the dishwasher (at your office or your house depending on whether you fear your office admin or your wife less) at the pots & pan settings. No soap, just heat and water.

My wood came out pale grey after doing this and you can do a BUNCH of different sets at the same time.

You may want to run the dishwasher EMPTY with soap for one cycle afterwards to rid the system of the smell.

-g

WTSGDYBBR
12-09-2010, 12:52 PM
Thanks Guys. Munkeeboi how long did you let it soak and how long did you dry it before you sanded.

sorry been having internet problems at home today...Yes...citristrip first then bleach. gets the varnish or shellac off so you can bleach the wood. keep in mind that these were hardwood pieces, not sure how laminates would hold up to being soaked for hours. May be fine, but I havn't tried it.

Now it's time to sand.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47/munkeeboi/bang/IMG_7692-1.jpg

jdewolf
12-10-2010, 8:42 PM
Instead of using a clothes iron, do you think a clothes steamer would be as effective?

xsmeagolx
12-11-2010, 11:46 PM
well done!

AIMSMALL
12-12-2010, 1:12 AM
Instead of using a clothes iron, do you think a clothes steamer would be as effective?

Maybe, but I don't have one to try it plus I figured most people will have an iron. It's actually the steam that lifts the dents out so I'd say it's worth a try if you have one already. Let us know how it works out.

jdewolf
12-12-2010, 2:13 AM
Maybe, but I don't have one to try it plus I figured most people will have an iron. It's actually the steam that lifts the dents out so I'd say it's worth a try if you have one already. Let us know how it works out.

I fall into the category of one of those people who don't own an iron. I'll try out the clothes steamer and see how it does. I guess the worst case scenario is that I fork out 20 bucks for a cheap clothes iron. If only my kit would hurry up and arrive...

Monday can't come soon enough :(

johnthomas
12-12-2010, 2:50 AM
What about the bakelite refinish? I have some cz52 bakelite I would like to do.

AIMSMALL
12-12-2010, 11:04 AM
What about the bakelite refinish? I have some cz52 bakelite I would like to do.

I've just been super busy and haven't had time to play with the AK's lately. My plan was to sandblast an old bakelite pistol grip and then clear coat it but I haven't tried it yet to see how it looks. It's still on the list though.

Joe
12-14-2010, 1:23 PM
I'm going to do this in a few weeks. I'll post pics. Everyone did great work in this thread

jdewolf
12-21-2010, 1:32 AM
Finally got around to sanding, pre-stain, and staining. I went with "Ebony" stain and so far I have 3 coats on. Right now my only concern is if I'm going to get the desired color w/o washing out the wood grain in the process. Hopefully with a little luck and if the wood co-operates I'll end up with a nice rich black & grey finish with small accents of red along some of the grain and where there's a few "knots" of it. I have a feeling I'm going to need another few coats to get the desired effect. The fact that I'm going to be leaving town either tomorrow or the next day doesn't help matters. I at least want to be done with the staining before I leave.

Oh and the steamer worked well but I lost interest when I lost concentration and accidentally burned myself :o

mike_the_wino
12-31-2010, 12:00 AM
That is some really good work.

I prefer tung oil myself but your work is so beautiful I am re-thinking my love of tung oil.

AIMSMALL
12-31-2010, 12:03 AM
jdewolf, lets see some pics!

Mike, thanks for the compliments! I tried the tung oil and I've found that I prefer the wipe on poly, it has a smoother texture when it's all done, the tung oil still looks great too though.

Here's a tung oil set.
http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks040.jpg

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/AK74stocks1006.jpg

Here's a wipe on poly set.

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx253/sdmxrdr/Stock%20Refinishing/AKstock003.jpg

semperfidelis354
01-03-2011, 2:09 AM
so I finished my sks stock, and I have to say for the first time around it didnt turn out too bad

what I did is after I baked the stock to sweat out the cosmoline, I took Krud Kutter (bought at target) and boiling water to clean the stock the rest of the way, when I finished that step the stock looked a thousand times better.

The instead of using any wood stripper I steamed the whole furniture with an iron and a rag to even out everything I could and lift the old stain from the wood. after letting it dry for 24 hours I skipped the pre-stain and went straight to the staining process with minwax red mohogany, put 3 coats of that on then proceeded with 3 coats of minwax wipe on poly (the satin one). the project turned out better than I'd thought! the only blemish is one gouge in the wood I tried to fill in, the filler I used didn't take to the stain too well, thats my only problem with my first time.

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc518/semperfidelis354/IMG_20110103_130055.jpg
http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc518/semperfidelis354/IMG_20110103_130114.jpg

jdewolf
01-05-2011, 8:11 AM
http://www.simplypimp.com/furniture.jpg

Not quite how I envisioned how it would turn out. Between visiting Nor Cal, coming back for a night, and then leaving town again, and then coming back with a nasty cold my plans got a little derailed.

It looks decent but I got some nasty streaks that I didn't notice before I let the final coating of poly fully cure. I blame the nasty cold for that one. All in all I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. It could have been a lot better if I gave it more time and attention.

For the first time around though I'm mildly happy with the results.

Oh I would have gone for a darker look [more coats] but at a certain point the wood just wouldn't take anymore stain. I think I ended up with 5 1/2 coats of stain. When I'd clean off the last coat I was getting a lot of stain on my rags. I'm not sure if the cold and rain affected the curing or what.

vf111
01-12-2011, 5:54 PM
Very timely - I'm planning on re-finishing a WASR HG & stock set very soon and this thread will come in handy. :thumbsup:

AIMSMALL
01-12-2011, 6:56 PM
jdewolf, you can fix the streaks by sanding the out carefully and then adding some more wipe on poly. For darker color you would need either a darker stain or just to add a little bit of a darker stain to the color you were using, as you said after awhile it won't absorb any more stain. I think it looks pretty good but the picture isn't that great either.

SemperFi, your SKS looks great, thanks for posting the pics here :)

DREADNOUGHT78
01-19-2011, 10:03 PM
Well I gave it a shot.....I think that I should have used a more red stain as they didn't turn out the color I wanted (USED GUNSTOCK). I refinished a set of Romy-G handguards and I did evertyhing exactly as you listed. I ran into some issues with the parts not drying as fast as I think it was just really cold and moist whee I was refinishing them. I tried using a infra-red heat lamp but that is a big no-no as it actually started to make the wood oooze sap! I have gotten 2 coats on the wipe on poly on so far and will add the third tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I am finished.

On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!

AIMSMALL
01-19-2011, 10:12 PM
Well I gave it a shot.....I think that I should have used a more red stain as they didn't turn out the color I wanted (USED GUNSTOCK). I refinished a set of Romy-G handguards and I did evertyhing exactly as you listed. I ran into some issues with the parts not drying as fast as I think it was just really cold and moist whee I was refinishing them. I tried using a infra-red heat lamp but that is a big no-no as it actually started to make the wood oooze sap! I have gotten 2 coats on the wipe on poly on so far and will add the third tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I am finished.

On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!

Centerfire systems has Romy stock sets for $12.99 here http://www.centerfiresystems.com/stkaka04.aspx but it doesn't come with the gas tube wood piece.

I like to wait overnight between coats and/or apply before work and re-apply afterwork. This way usually allows 8-9 hours between coats which is plenty even if it's cold out.

killathrilla
02-15-2011, 6:22 PM
...

AIMSMALL
02-15-2011, 6:27 PM
AIMSMALL you are the MAN! I followed your instructions and I ended up producing a furniture set for my Rommy build that was better then expected! Thanks a lot for taking the time to put together the tutorial as you made it fun and easy.

Thanks for the compliments. Your furniture looks great ;)

Barabas
02-15-2011, 6:45 PM
On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!

This is one of the areas where traditional finishes shine. You can use plaster of paris mixed with linseed oil (or shellac) into a thick paste to fill large areas. It works much better during the dry summer months, but you can gently heat it to drive moisture out as it cures. The plaster turns translucent but fills nicely. You'll still see the gouge, but it will be well below the surface of the final finish. You can always topcoat with poly afterward for water impermeability.

If you use an unfiltered shellac, like button lac, it removes the need to dye or stain the wood as the red color is an exact match for soviet shellac. Just make sure to filter out most of the bug parts before applying the finish.

GetBulletsandBrass
03-15-2011, 7:31 PM
All of the refinish pictures came out very nicely. Gonna have to try out the 25% bleach and water method one day for some old stocks I got laying around.

jdewolf
03-31-2011, 6:18 PM
jdewolf, you can fix the streaks by sanding the out carefully and then adding some more wipe on poly. For darker color you would need either a darker stain or just to add a little bit of a darker stain to the color you were using, as you said after awhile it won't absorb any more stain. I think it looks pretty good but the picture isn't that great either.


I was using Ebony stain, I don't think it gets much darker than that. I'm happy with the results there's a few streaks but they aren't noticeable unless you look closely. Considering the rest of the rifle isn't "pristine" I can live with it for now. Who knows maybe I'll have some more furniture in the future to play around with.

Sanderhawk
05-07-2011, 6:16 PM
I would like to do this. I just got my AK and have not taken it apart yet. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to get the furniture off? I`m nervous to take the gun apart for the first time. Way more parts to it than my XD40 :)

AIMSMALL
05-07-2011, 8:46 PM
I would like to do this. I just got my AK and have not taken it apart yet. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to get the furniture off? I`m nervous to take the gun apart for the first time. Way more parts to it than my XD40 :)

1 being the easiest, it's a 1. The front pieces come off just by flipping a lever and the stock just has 2 screws holding it on. There's a hole in the rear trunnion you can put a large screw driver through to help pursuade it out of the reciever.

858casper858
05-10-2011, 6:30 PM
I would like to do this. I just got my AK and have not taken it apart yet. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it to get the furniture off? I`m nervous to take the gun apart for the first time. Way more parts to it than my XD40 :)

What area you live in? I'm sure there's sombody close by that can help.

Sanderhawk
05-21-2011, 10:35 AM
Well I gave it a shot.....I think that I should have used a more red stain as they didn't turn out the color I wanted (USED GUNSTOCK). I refinished a set of Romy-G handguards and I did evertyhing exactly as you listed. I ran into some issues with the parts not drying as fast as I think it was just really cold and moist whee I was refinishing them. I tried using a infra-red heat lamp but that is a big no-no as it actually started to make the wood oooze sap! I have gotten 2 coats on the wipe on poly on so far and will add the third tomorrow. I will post up some pics when I am finished.

On another note my stocks had some large gouges in them so I tried using wood putty to fill but looks like poop. Oh well trial and error hopefully the next set will look better!Thanks Aimsmall great thread!

Do you have a pic with them dyed ( gunstock ) that is the color I bought for mine also. I will change color if its not what I thought it was.

On a side note I just took it apart a couple days ago to give it a cleaning. Wasn`t to bad.

Shiboleth
05-27-2011, 12:14 AM
I'm having a heck of a time getting the wood off of the upper handguard. I tried using a crescent wrench, and tried clamping one end in the vice but the wood won't budge. I'm afraid of doing damage by trying to force it. I'm giving it liberal amounts of WD-40 and I'll try again in the morning. Are there any tricks to doing this, or anyone have any ideas?

AIMSMALL
05-27-2011, 12:43 AM
I'm having a heck of a time getting the wood off of the upper handguard. I tried using a crescent wrench, and tried clamping one end in the vice but the wood won't budge. I'm afraid of doing damage by trying to force it. I'm giving it liberal amounts of WD-40 and I'll try again in the morning. Are there any tricks to doing this, or anyone have any ideas?

No tricks that I know of, clamp flat steel part in the vice and twist the wood 180. These can break in half sometimes too so beware. If it's just not going to come of for you without breaking you can re-finish it without taking it off the gas tube, just put a little blue painters tape over the metal part while you sand the wood. The top hand guards go for around $10 just in case it does break.

Shiboleth
05-27-2011, 3:35 AM
No tricks that I know of, clamp flat steel part in the vice and twist the wood 180. These can break in half sometimes too so beware. If it's just not going to come of for you without breaking you can re-finish it without taking it off the gas tube, just put a little blue painters tape over the metal part while you sand the wood. The top hand guards go for around $10 just in case it does break.

Yeah with as thin as the wood is and the amount of pressure I'm putting in to it, I'm definitely worried about breaking the wood or marring the metal.

If I can't get t off tomorrow I'll probably just do the work with it still on.

Shiboleth
06-05-2011, 7:25 PM
Any advice on getting the poly to go on evenly? I've tried applying it with a T-shirt, and with two types of brushes, and everytime i get either streaks and/or little air bubbles. When it dries i sand it with the steel wool to even it all out, but then it just streaks when the next coat goes on. Is there a certain way to get it on evenly, or is it just an issue of getting the coats thick enough to be able to sand it evenly on the final coat?

AIMSMALL
06-05-2011, 7:40 PM
Any advice on getting the poly to go on evenly? I've tried applying it with a T-shirt, and with two types of brushes, and everytime i get either streaks and/or little air bubbles. When it dries i sand it with the steel wool to even it all out, but then it just streaks when the next coat goes on. Is there a certain way to get it on evenly, or is it just an issue of getting the coats thick enough to be able to sand it evenly on the final coat?

If your using the minwax wipe on poly I'm surprised to hear your having this problem.

1. Is it really cold in the room your doing this in causing the poly to go on really thick?
2. You should not be sanding the final coat as it will dull it up.
3. The sanding between coats is meant to get out any really small imperfections and give the next coat a better surface to stick to.

Shiboleth
06-05-2011, 8:22 PM
1:Yeah it's the same minwax poly shown in your OP, and it's not particularly cold here.
2,3: That was my understanding, which is why I'm getting confused because if each layer keeps going on like this, the final layer will be uneven.
It kinda seems like maybe the poly is too thick. When it goes on it has enough surface tension to prevent it from flattening out and filling in the little valleys left from the application. Any smoothing out I try to do when it's still wet tends to leave new marks. Think it might help to warm the poly prior to application? Any other ideas?

AIMSMALL
06-05-2011, 8:44 PM
1:Yeah it's the same minwax poly shown in your OP, and it's not particularly cold here.
2,3: That was my understanding, which is why I'm getting confused because if each layer keeps going on like this, the final layer will be uneven.
It kinda seems like maybe the poly is too thick. When it goes on it has enough surface tension to prevent it from flattening out and filling in the little valleys left from the application. Any smoothing out I try to do when it's still wet tends to leave new marks. Think it might help to warm the poly prior to application? Any other ideas?

It should be pretty thin, not as thin as water but much thinner then paint or maple syrup. Maybe like hot maple syrup or even a little thinner then that. I use a piece of cut up t-shirt to apply, this seems to work best for me. As for heating it up I don't know, never tried that but I would be carefull about how you heat it and how hot you get it if you do try it for obvious reasons.

Sanderhawk
06-22-2011, 4:39 PM
Well I finished my AK47 refinishing project. It took about 4 days. I couldn`t get the the furiture off the rifle so I just did alot of taping and refinished it fully assembled. I finished it with a walnut stain and a satin rub on poly. I think it came out pretty damn good.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll149/sanderhawk/gunpictures020.jpg

AIMSMALL
06-22-2011, 5:37 PM
Looks sweet man, good work.

7,62x39
07-09-2011, 6:21 PM
I have aspirations of adding some bakelite refinishing on here too.

What ever happened to these aspirations of bakelite refinishing? I was very interested in that.

AIMSMALL
07-09-2011, 7:37 PM
What ever happened to these aspirations of bakelite refinishing? I was very interested in that.

I did start on one piece, I sand blasted it in preparation of a new clear coat then just kinda forgot about it. I'm more curious about how it will look then anything as I don't really have any Bakelite that NEEDS refinishing. This idea was just a fun thing to see if it worked.

AIMSMALL
07-23-2011, 5:08 PM
Has anyone else tried Bakelite refinishing?

cprieto
07-25-2011, 6:02 PM
Thank you for posting, I need to try this!

SamSung
08-18-2011, 8:37 PM
Just wondering if anybody ever try black dye? just want my AK to look something like this:

http://www.timbersmithusa.com/products/images/uploads/blacklam_lg_new.jpg

darthnugget
08-18-2011, 9:44 PM
This is a great thread, thank you!

I did my first two kits today. I think they turned out great. They were both done with Minwax Red mahogany 225. The first set is just one staining and Minwax poly light coating. The second is two times staining waiting 30 minutes to wipe the excess, and waiting 8 hours between staining and did two coats of poly. Note these are both dry but they sure are shiny.

#1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v73/flipsoft/fc939d48.jpg

#2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v73/flipsoft/4d5476f7.jpg

-Darth

safaridave
09-07-2011, 3:21 PM
I'm thinking of refinishing my Romy-G stock set too. I would, however, like to recreate the black strip on the rear of the stock. Any ideas on the type of paint to use and methodology?

AIMSMALL
09-07-2011, 5:49 PM
I'm thinking of refinishing my Romy-G stock set too. I would, however, like to recreate the black strip on the rear of the stock. Any ideas on the type of paint to use and methodology?

I thought this ws mentioned somewhere already but maybe not. The originals are actually dipped into the paint (not sure excatly what type of paint), the easy way to recreate this is to do all the steps in the tutorial but after a few coats of clear tape around the stock where the black line will end and spray paint the bottom part of the stock. once thats all dry apply a few more coats of clear and your done.

sandeggo
09-11-2011, 11:55 AM
Used your tutorial with a few tweaks. I started by rubbing the stock with acetone and rags. Then dropped them into a 50/50 solution of clorox and hot water for about 2 hours. Then vinegar and water for about 30 minutes to neutralize the bleach. Let it dry over night, sanded with 220. Hand rubbed onyx stain into the grain, then gloss poly afterwards.
Start
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/pmkms/11e21e4c.jpg
After bleach and sand
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/pmkms/0a454a5d.jpg
Stained
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/pmkms/b002e7a3.jpg
1 coat of poly
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/pmkms/b487acab.jpg
Coat number 3
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/pmkms/bca44f55.jpg
Going for a deep polished clear on these

AIMSMALL
09-11-2011, 12:49 PM
Looking good man :)

kablooie
09-12-2011, 11:17 AM
will the citri strip also remove the cosmo? especially the cosmo that is soaked into the wood itself? meaning, if i use the citistrip, does that eliminate having to put the stock in the oven or sun to sweat out the cosmo?
thanks

AIMSMALL
09-12-2011, 12:09 PM
I have had great luck with the citristrip and have never had to put a stock in the oven, the original finish on the wood should keep most of the cosmo from absorbing into the wood. Give my method a try, I think it will work out just fine.

kablooie
09-12-2011, 12:10 PM
Give my method a try...

You better believe it... going to buy citistrip from home depot on my lunch break! and other misc items (gloves, steel wool, etc).

kablooie
09-12-2011, 7:55 PM
opted to go to walmart instead since i wanted to get a box of WWB... they were out of the quart sized stripper but had the aerosol can of the same thing... is that just as good?

AIMSMALL
09-12-2011, 8:04 PM
I don't know to be honest but if it's the same brand I'd give it a try. Just follow the directions on the can and repeat the steps as needed. Post some pics of your project too :)

kablooie
09-12-2011, 9:07 PM
... Post some pics of your project too :)
this is it disassembled before i cleaned most of the metal in gas.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a83/kablooie29/sks/P1000246.jpg

jaumby
09-13-2011, 1:55 PM
If you want the wood grain on your old gunstock to show its best, refrain from using chemical strippers. The brush on strippers tend to raise the texture of the wood surface and no matter what you use to coat the wood, it looks dull.

Better option is to start with 60 grit sandpaper and strip away the old finish and any dinks in the wood that you do not want showing. Some of the old dents will actually look good after proper finishing. (Gives the gun some character) After the 60 grit sanding, move to 100 grit and sand smooth, then go to 160 grit, then 220 grit. While sanding each grit of sandpaper, you will be able to feel when the sandpaper stops sticking and gets smoother as you sand.

Now get some Watco Danish oil at the hardware store and follow instructions which is basically, brush on the oil and keep the wood wet for at least 30 minutes. The oil will continue to soak into the wood for the 30 or 40 minutes. As the oil cures it make the wood about 5 times harder than without the oil.

Then get some wet or dry sandpaper. (the black stuff) and wet the wood down with Watco oil and start sanding again. Start with the lower grit paper and move to the higher grit paper when you feel the sandpaper slip more. The finer the paper that you use, the shinier the wood will look. After you have sanded to the finish that you like, let the wood cure for at least 8 hours. You will need to wipe the excess oil off the wood for a while as the oil will weep back out of the grain. If there are areas that the oil dries, just put a little oil on a cloth and wipe it off.

THERE IS NO NEED TO VARNISH THE WOOD AFTER DOING THIS. And there will never be the possibility of a varnished surface scratching off if there is no varnish. The wood actually ends up being protected better than using varnish.

If there ever comes a time when the wood starts looking dull again, or if you get some surface scratches or dings, just brush on some Watco oil and wet sand it a bit and it will look like new again.

Trust me,,,, you will like what you see.

AIMSMALL
09-13-2011, 2:49 PM
If you want the wood grain on your old gunstock to show its best, refrain from using chemical strippers. The brush on strippers tend to raise the texture of the wood surface and no matter what you use to coat the wood, it looks dull.

Better option is to start with 60 grit sandpaper and strip away the old finish and any dinks in the wood that you do not want showing. Some of the old dents will actually look good after proper finishing. (Gives the gun some character) After the 60 grit sanding, move to 100 grit and sand smooth, then go to 160 grit, then 220 grit. While sanding each grit of sandpaper, you will be able to feel when the sandpaper stops sticking and gets smoother as you sand.

Now get some Watco Danish oil at the hardware store and follow instructions which is basically, brush on the oil and keep the wood wet for at least 30 minutes. The oil will continue to soak into the wood for the 30 or 40 minutes. As the oil cures it make the wood about 5 times harder than without the oil.

Then get some wet or dry sandpaper. (the black stuff) and wet the wood down with Watco oil and start sanding again. Start with the lower grit paper and move to the higher grit paper when you feel the sandpaper slip more. The finer the paper that you use, the shinier the wood will look. After you have sanded to the finish that you like, let the wood cure for at least 8 hours. You will need to wipe the excess oil off the wood for a while as the oil will weep back out of the grain. If there are areas that the oil dries, just put a little oil on a cloth and wipe it off.

THERE IS NO NEED TO VARNISH THE WOOD AFTER DOING THIS. And there will never be the possibility of a varnished surface scratching off if there is no varnish. The wood actually ends up being protected better than using varnish.

If there ever comes a time when the wood starts looking dull again, or if you get some surface scratches or dings, just brush on some Watco oil and wet sand it a bit and it will look like new again.

Trust me,,,, you will like what you see.

Hello there, just want to mention again here that when you sand a stock it is easy to sand too much and make it so that the stock/forward grip etc doesn't line up with the metal parts of the gun as well as they used to, I understand what your saying about the fibers raising up but I do sand the stock very lightly after it's been stripped to smooth it out real nice.

kablooie
09-13-2011, 3:57 PM
If you want the wood grain on your old gunstock to show its best, refrain from using chemical strippers. The brush on strippers tend to raise the texture of the wood surface and no matter what you use to coat the wood, it looks dull.
...

Trust me,,,, you will like what you see.

pictures??

7,62x39
09-13-2011, 8:45 PM
Bakelite Refinishing

Here are the materials that will be needed.
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/2686/materials.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/materials.jpg/)

The project that I am working on is a Bulgarian bakelite upper handguard that will be used on a Romanian AIMS-74 clone. The handguard started off with the name "ARKO" carved into the side and the bakelite was dark, ugly, and looked like a bunch of straw fibers stuck together. Here is the original picture, which doesn't really show how it looked very well, but at least it is something.
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/118/bakeliteoriginal.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/508/bakeliteoriginal.jpg/)

I started off by fitting the handguard to my gas tube, and then just used the plastic polish on the handguard. It looked better, but still not great. Then I realized that the areas I had fitted with a file were a lot lighter after using the plastic polish on them, and no scratches. Since my pistol grip for this project is pretty light orange/red, I decided to sand the entire handguard with 220 grit sandpaper, and then buff it with 0000 steel wool. Please wear a mask when you do this, bakelite is basically just filler stuck together with plastic resin, and the filler can be anything....you don't want to be breathing in that dust. Here is a picture of the handguard after sanding and steel wooling:

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/5251/bakelitesanded.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/bakelitesanded.jpg/)

Then I used the plastic polish on the handguard, and it looked a lot better:

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9058/bakelitepolished.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/18/bakelitepolished.jpg/)

You could stop here, but I decided that I was going to use the poly to coat the handguard. Here it is after several coats with the poly still wet.

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/7237/bpgwetpoly.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/bpgwetpoly.jpg/)

And now done! Poly is dry in this picture, and there are 5 coats on it. I did not steel wool it or anything, just leave it as is. The late style romy pistol grip is in the picture for reference, I used plastic polish on that but nothing else.

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/9694/bpgz.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/bpgz.jpg/)

And lastly, do NOT use the plastic polish over the poly! It will ruin the project, make the poly look milky and dry. I know from experience unfortunately, I had to redo the hand guard after doing this a couple of days ago.

Have fun and post your results here please!

AIMSMALL
09-13-2011, 10:30 PM
Nice work 7.62x39, thanks for sharing. I started working on a bakelite pistol grip by sand blasting it to start the process, I have still yet to finish the grip but I was planning on spraying it with some clear coat spray paint. Someday :rolleyes:, LOL.

7,62x39
09-13-2011, 10:52 PM
Nice work 7.62x39, thanks for sharing. I started working on a bakelite pistol grip by sand blasting it to start the process, I have still yet to finish the grip but I was planning on spraying it with some clear coat spray paint. Someday :rolleyes:, LOL.

Thanks, I know that the pictures don't show that much of a difference, but it looked a LOT better in person before my mistake, especially after the wipe on poly. I'll get a better picture after I redo it tomorrow.

I also thought about getting the blaster out for this one, but I decided I would just go with regular sandpaper since I only have 70 grit aluminum oxide right now, and that seems too rough for this. Clear coat spray paint is actually a great idea, I didn't even think about that, I might try that instead. Using wipe on poly was interesting, the first coat just kind of beaded up since it was just sitting on top of the bakelite instead of absorbing, so I kept it moving until it got tacky and stopped beading up. The next coats went on a lot easier and didn't try to bead up like the first one. It also dries in about 10-20 minutes on bakelite, I assume because it is not absorbing.

It really looked AMAZING after 3 coats of wipe on poly, I can't believe I messed it up with the plastic polish after that :facepalm: It looked good until the plastic polish dried up, and then the poly looked milky, and the handguard looked gross and straw like again

I'm also refinishing a romy dong handguard for this project using your methods right now. I put on one coat of golden oak stain, too dark for me. I'm going to bleach it then start the process over again. I'll post pics of that when I get it done too.

AIMSMALL
09-14-2011, 9:33 AM
The main reason I used the sand blaster is because of the checkering on the grip, can't really sand that part. I noticed that if you get the spray nozzle too close to the grip it will damage the checkering but if you keep it far away it will strip the finish without messing up the checkering.

7,62x39
09-15-2011, 8:55 PM
Updated the bakelite refinishing with the finished product! Also made some progress on the lower donkey dong hand guard. I bleached it yesterday (it is wood, do not bleach bakelite) and sanded and steel wooled it down today, and put 3 coats of golden oak stain on it. It is really looking amazing, and I can't wait to put some poly on it!

Fiftyfivechvyman
10-02-2011, 10:49 AM
New to site but followed this page I'll show my stock when I'm done

AIMSMALL
10-02-2011, 11:24 AM
New to site but followed this page I'll show my stock when I'm done

Welcome to Calguns! I'm looking forward to seeing your project completed. :)

DavidRSA
10-26-2011, 3:17 PM
Hi Aimsmall;

Great tutorial. After reading it I cancelled my order for some tapko plastic furniture and decided instead that wood is the way to go. Man that stuff when cleaned up looks really great. I will leave the plastic for the magpul furniture on my AR's. I am totally new to AK's but it seems like a lot of good stuff to do here and much more detailed than with AR's.

This is the kit I just purchased from AKbuilder. I cant tell if the pistol grip is wood or plastic, if plastic I'll just buy a wooden one. I'm off to Walmart now to get all the items listed in your tutorial. Thanks again!!

http://ak-builder.com/images/detailed/1/bulgarian_wood_parts_kit.jpg

AIMSMALL
10-26-2011, 6:06 PM
Awesome! Please post a pic or 2 when it's all done! PM coming your way.

huggybear
10-26-2011, 6:46 PM
hey aimsmall, great tutorial, im refinishing the stock on my 870 into a matching set. Is there anything different i need to do or can i just follow the same steps u did? here is a thread i started on it (http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=492352). originally i was just going to do the stock but now i am going to refinish both the stock and forend into a red mahogany finish.

DavidRSA
11-03-2011, 2:21 PM
Awesome! Please post a pic or 2 when it's all done! PM coming your way.

Almost ready for the poly gloss coating. This has been a lot of fun. Ironically, I initially wanted an AK that was more modern in looks, ie all black with rails and magpul stock etc. (Since I have a couple AR's, I wanted the same look). But after reading this thread last week and seeing how beautiful an AK can look with some nice wood furniture I was converted. (My wife is excited too, because I clearly bought enough supplies to refinish the outdoor bench!)

I was using red mahogany color stain, which is quite a dark red. For the upper handguard I only needed one coat, two coats for the lower, and three for the stock. Now they all match. I forgot to take "before" pics but the wood parts were really gross, oily, and dirty.

Thanks again to Aimsmall and all the others for the invaluable guidance and advice on this forum.

kablooie
11-04-2011, 6:27 AM
http://www.webcam-steamate.com/cookies/37/b/happy.gif

Henry Huttleston Rogers was born in Mattapoisett, Massachusetts, on January 29, 1840.
...
Also within sight of the fort, the first naval battle of the American Revolution took place on May 14, 1775.

did he refinish his AK stock?
:useless:

DavidRSA
11-06-2011, 4:48 PM
Here are my items after purchasing the exact materials listed at the beginning of this thread, with the exception of the stain, where I chose a red mahogany color. I had to stain the stock 3 times, the upper handguard twice, and the lower handguard once to get the colors to match. Came out really gorgeous. My only disappointment - a minor one - was that I was hoping it would come out a little more red.

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad299/DavidRSA/226c6562.jpg
http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad299/DavidRSA/b7651554.jpg
http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad299/DavidRSA/ce521391.jpg

Here is the before picture. Actually I didn't take a before picture, this one is based on the image on AK47-builder's website where I bought the parts kit from:

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad299/DavidRSA/79b2033e.jpg

So now that I have all the necessary supplies, the wife took a trip to a thrift store and purchased a whole bunch of worn out furniture items for me to refinish!

MyMalteseFalcon
12-05-2011, 3:35 AM
Thanks AimSmall, very nice tutorial, after my builds I'm going to redo the furniture in the manner you described. Very simple, and time consuming, but the results are great. Using bio-degradable stripped is a big thumbs up. They sure look pretty, beats plastic any day, even if their not 922r.


Thanks.

chibitodd
12-13-2011, 10:57 PM
I have the same stock set i stripped them and just cleared them. they look great. i will put up a picture tomarrow. I have seen some done with BLO like a garand. the are different but i think they look funny.

AIMSMALL
12-13-2011, 11:51 PM
David RSA, that came out really nice!
LOL @ the furniture comment.

MyMalteseFalcon, while the stripper I used is evironmentally friendly keep in mind the the old finish you are removing isn't.

sharkforce
02-03-2012, 11:30 PM
which type of wipe-on poly has the best results? satin? gloss? matte?

AIMSMALL
02-04-2012, 10:02 AM
which type of wipe-on poly has the best results? satin? gloss? matte?

I like the satin but it's a cosmetic thing so, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

sharkforce
02-04-2012, 12:15 PM
refinishing supplies acquired :chris:
http://i.imgur.com/kG83hl.jpg


After stripping, waiting 24 hrs, sanding, pre treating, 1 coat of stain.

http://i.imgur.com/Lyc5wl.jpg

russt
03-09-2012, 7:28 AM
i just bought a wasr and was told to seal the furniture before i start shooting otherwise its going to get real nasty looking real fast. so my question is whats the best way to seal it? i dont want to refinish it just protect it. should i use a wax, or polyeurethane?

TacticalPlinker
03-14-2012, 1:47 AM
So after reading this, I really want my AK stock refinished. But I don't have the time or the place to really work. I wonder if anyone out there does a refinish service or find someone locally who would be willing to do it?

valley82
04-02-2012, 8:46 PM
Here is a pic of my RomyG, my sons RomyG, and other sons Polish UF. Just built them on sunday. Citristrip, sanded, two coats of stain and 4 coats of satin poly.

142815

Thanks to the OP for the info and the motivation.

AK all day
04-02-2012, 9:24 PM
Working on my first stain project on my WASR 10/63 wood. This guide pretty much gave me the information and confidence I needed to go ahead and start. I really appreciate the post OP, very helpful. I will try and get pictures as soon as I can, but right now it has been taking forever for the poly to dry. Just have to keep waiting and checking. Thanks again OP!

AIMSMALL
04-02-2012, 10:29 PM
Hey rifles are looking good guys, I'm glad you guys are going for it too, it's a great feeling to put the work in to come up with something you can be proud of isn't it. :thumbsup:

MyMalteseFalcon
04-03-2012, 1:57 AM
Sweet! Look great, just like new again!

Nice job and it was a father and son effort, better yet!


:party:


:mnl::mnl::mnl:

valley82
04-03-2012, 8:26 AM
I agree, the best part by far is the family project, the boys are so proud of themselves/their rifles, they can't stop talking about it. I am the same way!

DREADNOUGHT78
04-07-2012, 11:43 PM
I have seen a few post's asking about refinishing Bakelite. I have done a few pistol grips and a set of handguards two different ways. I have done them with the wipe on poly and they came out ok. I also did a set with Automotive grade Urethane Clear Coat. On the ones I cleared I used some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to smooth them out and they came out pretty nice. These are some really old pic's but you can kinda see the results. I will be doing some pistol grips here in the next few days I'll post some more pics. I was checking out this thread because I used it last year to refinish some AK stock's and they turned out nice and I am currently in the middle of refinishing 3 more AK stock set's and I needed to brush up on the process! Thanks again Aimsmall for the write up.

ETA: sandblasting is not recommended. I wasted a pistol grip trying it out. Maybe my blaster was running real good that day but I won't be doing that again.

BASF Diamont DC98 Clearcoat
Duracoat Combat Black on the gas tube.

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l128/detailed_inc/001-6.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l128/detailed_inc/002-6.jpg

HYM
04-28-2012, 11:19 PM
Before...
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6404/wasrf.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/wasrf.jpg/)

After.
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/6744/04272012063.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/04272012063.jpg/)

stained with sedona red 222 and finished with zinsser bullseye clear transparent shellac

thanks for the tips OP

AK all day
05-17-2012, 5:32 PM
http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t501/DillonJury/024.jpg

THANKS FOR THE HELP AND GUIDANCE!

lil_jackal
05-18-2012, 12:41 PM
Ashy to classy !
http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l554/lil_jackalx/0304121411.jpg
.
http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l554/lil_jackalx/0517121854.jpg
.
going in this thread made me want to try it , and damn i love the results , great instructions ! thanks man :thumbsup:

gesundheit
05-20-2012, 2:44 PM
Which stain did you use lil jackal?

lil_jackal
05-20-2012, 4:04 PM
Which stain did you use lil jackal?

Gunstock 231 :)

gesundheit
05-20-2012, 5:32 PM
Gunstock 231 :)

Thanks. It came out looking awesome!

BASE45
05-20-2012, 6:28 PM
Video outlining my refinishing project

DpjmYyME0YY

robojet
06-07-2012, 9:17 PM
Just wondering if anybody ever try black dye? just want my AK to look something like this:

http://www.timbersmithusa.com/products/images/uploads/blacklam_lg_new.jpg

Was reading through this thread, and didn't see any response to the question above. I like the black also... was wondering if anyone has duplicated this look and how they did it?

robojet
06-08-2012, 1:15 PM
A little google research says that the black finish is called "ebonizing". Sounds like there are many techniques. I'll keep researching and post what I find. If anyone here has done it, I'd really like to hear about how you did it and see some pics! Thanks

Mattius Maximus
06-27-2012, 8:09 PM
Excellent post, AIMSMALL. Sir, if I may, I have a question regarding the permanent insertion of a single custom decal above the stain and underneath the polyurethane. I have a unique decal from my MW2 clan that I commanded that I would like to display permanently onto my sks buttstock. Which materials would you suggest I use for the decal itself, and what other materials and processes would you suggest I use to make this little dream of mine a reality? Thank you, sir, in advance.

AIMSMALL
06-27-2012, 9:07 PM
Excellent post, AIMSMALL. Sir, if I may, I have a question regarding the permanent insertion of a single custom decal above the stain and underneath the polyurethane. I have a unique decal from my MW2 clan that I commanded that I would like to display permanently onto my sks buttstock. Which materials would you suggest I use for the decal itself, and what other materials and processes would you suggest I use to make this little dream of mine a reality? Thank you, sir, in advance.

I really like the wipe on poly but I'm not sure how that would work with a sticker under it, maybe you could test it out on a 2x4 or something? I would imagine the spray on poly would work just fine for what your trying to do but again, testing on a 2x4 might not be a bad idea. Everything else I would do the same as the tutorial says.

Let us know how it works out commander ;)

artoaster
06-27-2012, 10:35 PM
I just received a Bulgarian 74 kit with all wood furniture and it looks like I can just start with 220 grit and go to work. It doesn't look like stripping is necessary like with the Romy.

AIMSMALL
06-28-2012, 12:00 AM
I just received a Bulgarian 74 kit with all wood furniture and it looks like I can just start with 220 grit and go to work. It doesn't look like stripping is necessary like with the Romy.

I've done a few of those and the ones I had I did strip before sanding, the fatory finish is nicer then the romy's but still has a clear coating on it and what you don't want to do is try to sand off the clear. You will be better off stripping it and then sanding because you have less chance of damaging the stock the less sanding you do.

Varg Vikernes
07-23-2012, 10:04 PM
Will Citristrip remove cosmoline from the wood?

Jimmy310
08-24-2012, 7:30 PM
Just wondering if anybody ever try black dye? just want my AK to look something like this:

http://www.timbersmithusa.com/products/images/uploads/blacklam_lg_new.jpg

I just bought a wasr10 and would like to refinish my furniture in this shade.

Anyone wanna help in South LA/North Orange County?

valley82
08-24-2012, 9:40 PM
Minwax stain "ebony" at home depot. Or you could get black dye for water based finishes at rockler.

AIMSMALL
08-24-2012, 11:32 PM
I just bought a wasr10 and would like to refinish my furniture in this shade.

Anyone wanna help in South LA/North Orange County?

I've seen a few people try this with mixed results, read thru the thread and there are some guys here giving advice on how to bleach the wood before staining, I would follow those steps first and then use the ebony stain. If you don't bleach before using the dark colors they tend to just look really dark and details of the grain are hard to see so it doesn't look great. I'm sure there's people here who could post pics of what I'm talking about but I haven't used those colors so I don't have any to share.

Any of the more recent posters have pics to share yet?

Varg Vikernes
08-24-2012, 11:50 PM
I put on a really bad gloss on my AK furniture. I'm assuming that citristrip will take that gloss and any finish I put on off?

AIMSMALL
08-25-2012, 12:53 AM
it will take off the gloss and some of the stain but the stain soaks into the wood so you'd have to bleach it to get that out. Don't use spray on clear unless you have a special circumstance that requires it, the finish you get won't be as smooth as the wipe on poly.

Varg Vikernes
08-25-2012, 1:34 AM
it will take off the gloss and some of the stain but the stain soaks into the wood so you'd have to bleach it to get that out. Don't use spray on clear unless you have a special circumstance that requires it, the finish you get won't be as smooth as the wipe on poly.

Ya, I used some Varathane? like outside door gloss. The finish isn't even close to what I wanted. Gonna pick up some Minwax wipe on poly when I get the chance.

Jimmy310
08-29-2012, 2:19 PM
I decided to not do the bleached ebony finish as im a n00b. Right now i finished staining my furniture (wasr 10/63) with Minwax Dark Walnut stain (3 coats). I just got done putting on the first coat of Minwax wipe on poly. I'll post pics when im done with it!

Jimmy310
08-30-2012, 12:16 AM
I kinda gave up on after my 2nd coat of satin poly, i just rubbed the steel wool and gave in to liking the way it turned out....i guess thats most important. Its got a darker relic'ed look. Here are before and afters:

Before: http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h231/Thedandy/DSCF3392.jpg

After: http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac319/jbusman84/IMAG0251.jpg
(before you haggle me about the mag, i did take the follower out)

hermosabeach
08-30-2012, 1:43 AM
I am enjoying this thread. Seeing life come back to those old stocks

Year and years ago my dad showed me how to steam out dents.

For most of the small ones, we used wet rags and a solder iron

You do not need the larger surface of a clothing iron

You can also save the sand paper dust from your sanding

Mix the sandpaper dust with shellac and you have wood filler that is made partially with the dust from your stock. You can also place a few drops of shellac into the ding and sand over the top. The dust from the sanding then colors the shellac that is you filler
You then stain and finish as normal

I messed up my first stock by rushing the steps
I also used a wet tack cloth to pick up sand dust.
The tact was soaking wet and stood up little hairs of wood fiber

I also started in December when I was bored and it was too cold and too damp to get a decent finish results

Seeing this post makes me want to go attack a few rommys...

AIMSMALL
09-03-2012, 2:30 AM
BASE45, Cool video! Your furniture looks like it turned out really nice. I did have one question though, I noticed some dents/dings in the top hand guard in the sanding stages and then they seem to be gone later, did you steam them out or fill them? Maybe thats something you could ad to the video? Thanks for posting the video, I'm sure others here will enjoy watching.

hellayella
10-01-2012, 11:58 AM
how about someone tell me something about refinishing wood into a super duper titanium light blonde finish...that would look great!

EuReekCA
10-24-2012, 8:09 PM
*bump* for later reference..

AIMSMALL
10-24-2012, 9:12 PM
*bump* for later reference..

You can subscribe to threads without bumping them and this thread is a sticky so I don't see why you posted here unless you were just wanting to get the ad for the group buy in the thread. :rolleyes:

hellayella
11-02-2012, 2:31 PM
hey guys, the metal clips for attaching the furniture to the barrel seems stuck, pls help me remove them from upper and lower AK handguard!

DS94901
11-27-2012, 12:26 PM
I have a Romanian stock with the black stripe on the end and although i've stripped it as much as i think is possible and sanded from 100, 220, 280, I still can't get rid of some remaining black. I'm afraid to sand it down any further. Should I bleach it?

I'm refinishing the furniture on a Maadi kit and the upper handguard is much darker than the lower. I think I'm going to try staining with sedona red to try and get them a little closer to each other but I'd love any suggestions if anyone has any.

eightmd
11-27-2012, 4:23 PM
I stripped my Romy G with some of the real costic stuff from Home Depot, not the orange, and stuff the the black stripe came off. You might try using the stripper again. Another way to strip a finish is to soak it in Acetone for a while (like 12 - 24 hours). I saw that on youtube, but I don't think it does any better than using paint stripper.

AIMSMALL
11-27-2012, 10:48 PM
I have a Romanian stock with the black stripe on the end and although i've stripped it as much as i think is possible and sanded from 100, 220, 280, I still can't get rid of some remaining black. I'm afraid to sand it down any further. Should I bleach it?

I'm refinishing the furniture on a Maadi kit and the upper handguard is much darker than the lower. I think I'm going to try staining with sedona red to try and get them a little closer to each other but I'd love any suggestions if anyone has any.

I haven't had that problem but I will say that sanding it down more is a bad idea. If the stripper won't get it out I would consider leaving it depending on how bad it is. Also, the colors of the pieces never really match quite right, it's just how they were, if you want them to match you can bleach them (I've never done that) but to look "correct" they don't need to match.

wpage
01-08-2013, 1:57 PM
Nice work...

Well done!

Dan FS71
03-05-2013, 9:13 AM
Was reading through this thread, and didn't see any response to the question above. I like the black also... was wondering if anyone has duplicated this look and how they did it?

Could be wrong but that wood doesn't look stock. I'd bet its a back and white lam to start with. Not dyed black.

meaty-btz
05-05-2013, 2:06 PM
Just wondering if anybody ever try black dye? just want my AK to look something like this:

http://www.timbersmithusa.com/products/images/uploads/blacklam_lg_new.jpg

This isn't ebonizing. Ebonizing is too fast a process and won't look like this. It also isn't a laminate black white.

This is a stain and wipe. Start with a black (not ebony) stain, oil based. Wipe on heavy, leave it for a short time ( I mean short, as in a minute or so), wipe with the grain, heavily. I have pictures of a piece of 2x4 I did this on. Your wood needs to be pretty light for best look.

Dan FS71
05-05-2013, 2:22 PM
It also isn't a laminate black white.
.

If fact it is a U.S. made black and white laminate, even found the link to the seller. I'll see if I can find where I put it. Stain simply wont do that. (Also not the hg and pg - clearly not milspec)

meaty-btz
05-05-2013, 2:31 PM
dunno, my test on pine looks just like that. Including areas that are near white with black in any pitting or harder spots in the wood along with the grain. Not saying that the stock isn't laminated. Just that there is more to it. We can simulate it pretty well without laminate. I am going to get some pieces of white hard wood to try to see how it looks.

Dan FS71
05-05-2013, 2:46 PM
just reporting what I found. Pics of your results would be great. Tagged for pics.

meaty-btz
05-05-2013, 7:41 PM
just reporting what I found. Pics of your results would be great. Tagged for pics.

I found it for sale as well now. I hear that some later aks have laminated stocks. If so, we could probably replicate almost exactly with an added aftermarket grip by doing .. I think it is called better blond, it is a white tinted water based stain first, then laying the black stain on the laminated stock, wipe quickly and firmly and it should work.

The store did not have any wood that was useful. I am bleaching some narsty ak furniture right now but that isn't going to be blacked. Here are the pine images though. Just a quicky.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230343&stc=1&d=1367807980

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230344&stc=1&d=1367807980

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230345&stc=1&d=1367807980

The rippling in the final pic is because this is just a raw 2x4 scrap which is rippled. Otherwise the finish comes out nicely with light dark. A white tining pre-treat would probably wrap up the deal on a real laminate stock that has been properly cleaned.

meaty-btz
05-05-2013, 10:34 PM
I am a little concerned about tonights work. I was doing a pigment bleach job, it worked great, except the laminate upper handguard showed some strange fiber destruction. When it's dry I will be able to see if things have gone really bad or if it was just the effect of the water. The other solid wood parts showed now issues of fiber destruction and lift (forms a soft foamy layer that can be wiped off).

meaty-btz
05-06-2013, 9:22 AM
Wood is still drying this morning but, yeah, be careful with the upper handguard. It is rough now, definite fiber destruction. I believe because of how it was bent the fibers were under tension and when softened sufficiently by the bleach they let go. Sanding should restore it, but we shall see.. some pics of the after bleach.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230443&stc=1&d=1367857299

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230444&stc=1&d=1367857310

meaty-btz
05-07-2013, 7:29 PM
The bleached wood is still drying, our local humidity has been very high.

Completed my other furniture restoration and I like it. Gunstock stain, 3 coats of wipe on poly satin. I first did gloss and stripped it, terrible look. Satin is very nice. I am very happy with the results.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230937&stc=1&d=1367980045

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230936&d=1367980012

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=230935&stc=1&d=1367980045

I decided to NOT go black on the bleached stock but to go blond with a golden pecan. Should be very nice.

kellyhachihachi
07-10-2013, 3:01 AM
Before...
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6404/wasrf.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/21/wasrf.jpg/)

After.
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/6744/04272012063.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/04272012063.jpg/)

stained with sedona red 222 and finished with zinsser bullseye clear transparent shellac

thanks for the tips OP

Alright now im excited! I pick up my AK on the 19th (damn you CA and your 10 days that feel like a month), wood looks pretty much like your before, and im gonna shoot for the "Russian red" or something similar to your after photo! ahhhh i cant wait!

My grandfather does alot of woodworks so im hoping i dont have to buy a ton of this stuff haha

CK_32
07-25-2013, 5:54 PM
This was awesome! Worked out amazing thank you!

Paseclipse
07-27-2013, 1:29 PM
I'm sorry but am I missing something here? Have the original posters pics been deleted from Photobucket or is my virus software blocking the pics? Anyone else have the same problem with this thread?

kellyhachihachi
07-27-2013, 1:50 PM
No theyre gone now, I believe he uploaded more photos then his account can handle

AIMSMALL
07-27-2013, 7:20 PM
Pics are back up :)

Speedpower
07-27-2013, 8:05 PM
Replaced the crappy furniture on the Norinco NHM91 (TOP) with Birch Laminate from Ironwoods stained it with Red Rit Liquid Dye and finished it with Polyurethane varnish

https://sphotos-b-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1017101_10200494095254513_84934839_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/64724_10200494112614947_305081696_n.jpg
https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/14459_10200494113214962_1540840805_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1011130_10200387128780418_1710987242_n.jpg

kellyhachihachi
07-27-2013, 8:57 PM
I posted mine in a thread, but i suppose ill post it here

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/9346528476_b8fefcaa4c_c.jpg

Thanks Aimsmall!

dgan
07-27-2013, 9:20 PM
I posted mine in a thread, but i suppose ill post it here

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/9346528476_b8fefcaa4c_c.jpg

Thanks Aimsmall!

Interesting AK, no maglock at all and a 30 round standard magazine!

kellyhachihachi
07-27-2013, 9:25 PM
I leave the BB off when im at home, and the mag is capped to a 10 round. welded floor plate and all ;)

sickboysince81
10-06-2013, 2:02 AM
I have an old thumbhole ak stock that i need to refinish. Looks like hell right now. Thanks for the info

sickboysince81
10-08-2013, 12:39 PM
Oops i just posted in the wrong spot

YZINGERR
08-23-2014, 9:34 AM
I posted mine in a thread, but i suppose ill post it here

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/9346528476_b8fefcaa4c_c.jpg

Thanks Aimsmall!

Love the color... want to do mine just like that. Will have to check out your thread