M110 Clone(ish) Build....Which Rail?

[goodlookin1]

Hey guys,

I'm going for a 308 build that is close to an M110 build. I know the rail is a KAC URX but I simply can't justify $700 + install for the same exact rail which is no functionally different than any other free floated rail, other than looks.

I had decided on a 12" Daniel Defense 7.62 Lite rail, but it appears that it has been discontinued and I can't find a similar DPMS based high rail anywhere. Can anyone make a recommendation on a close looking rail? Its got to be 12" or 12.5" in length and must match up to a DPMS "high rail" (3/16" thick picatinny rail). I was thinking about the Troy MRF rail but I'm not so sure I like it....not much character to it.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[jpm804]

Centurion arms maybe ....

http://www.centurionarms.com/category-s/1816.htm

[CK_32]

I went with the Troy 13.5" MRF quad rail for my M110/LR308 build. Been happy with it.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/sportin3s/Firearms/86C168EF-B5D0-4B8A-BF54-B5398FC3F609_zpsrqjlbtft.png

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/sportin3s/Firearms/45128F88-CA8D-4DB4-BBCC-5CCCA67540BD_zps0qohoqkb.jpg

[goodlookin1]

I went with the Troy 13.5" MRF quad rail for my M110/LR308 build. Been happy with it.

Why o why did Troy have to ruin it by putting those 3 or 4 lateral lines in between each rail section?!? It doesn't match with ANY upper receiver! Especially DPMS. That and the weight are what are holding me back...

[CK_32]

Why o why did Troy have to ruin it by putting those 3 or 4 lateral lines in between each rail section?!? It doesn't match with ANY upper receiver! Especially DPMS. That and the weight are what are holding me back...

Honestly.... I felt the same way at first. I use to dump on the rail because of the lines. But after a while they grow on you. I actually like them now. When it's all put together it doesn't look as bad as you think. If you get one you might see what I mean. But I use to feel the same way about the rail lines.

[FMJBT]

Could go with a CMMG keymod forend and then attach full length rails to it. Or just modify some URX kevers to fit over the keymod sufaces like I did with my M110-C-ish clone:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15473744872_a16241424b_c.jpg

[Click Boom]

nice rifles guys

[jpm804]

Could go with a CMMG keymod forend and then attach full length rails to it. Or just modify some URX kevers to fit over the keymod sufaces like I did with my M110-C-ish clone:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15473744872_a16241424b_c.jpg

Nice FMJBT .... I like how you emulated the top rail overhang on the handguard, nice touch ...

[FMJBT]

Nice FMJBT .... I like how you emulated the top rail overhang on the handguard, nice touch ...

Thanks. It's actually a functional modification. If you look closely, you can see the forward edge of the gas block is tapered for seating the rear surface of an Ops Inc or Spikes Tactical suppressor. I'll only be in CA for a few more months before I retire out of the Navy and move to pretty much anywhere but CA. Getting a can for this is on my short list of goals after that. Until then, I fabbed up a brake shield to keep the neighbors happy at the range:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/15287198149_8d5b6eeed9_c.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/15451005586_52ea34d9b7_c.jpg

[jpm804]

Thanks. It's actually a functional modification. If you look closely, you can see the forward edge of the gas block is tapered for seating the rear surface of an Ops Inc or Spikes Tactical suppressor. I'll only be in CA for a few more months before I retire out of the Navy and move to pretty much anywhere but CA. Getting a can for this is on my short list of goals after that. Until then, I fabbed up a brake shield to keep the neighbors happy at the range:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3951/15287198149_8d5b6eeed9_c.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/15451005586_52ea34d9b7_c.jpg

Very nice mod then ... Funny is the newer urx rails for that sr25s don't have that rail overhang anymore because of suppressor mounting but I always liked that look...

[goodlookin1]

Could go with a CMMG keymod forend and then attach full length rails to it. Or just modify some URX kevers to fit over the keymod sufaces like I did with my M110-C-ish clone:

Looks pretty cool. Do you feel the method of securing the rail to the barrel but (via pinch tension) is very secure? I installed an MI rail once and wasn't sure how I felt about that type of rail....I much rather prefer the rails that bolt into the barrel but.

[FMJBT]

Looks pretty cool. Do you feel the method of securing the rail to the barrel but (via pinch tension) is very secure? I installed an MI rail once and wasn't sure how I felt about that type of rail....I much rather prefer the rails that bolt into the barrel but.

I think the CMMG version is pretty secure. I'm typically pretty leary of the clamp style forends as well, but this one seems very solid. The steel barrel nut on this one is almost 3" long, and lightly knurled to provide extra friction when clamped down. My only worry about it is that the gas tube is not captured by the barrel nut at all, so any anti rotation provided by having the gas tube run through the barrel not is not provided on this design. I'm thinking of running a short riser or other low profile picatinny accessory over the gap between upper and forend to lock the two together.

I've used the Troy MRF rails in the past, and those end up being pretty secure when clamped down, but all 3 of the ones I used had the same issue of not aligning with the upper rail when clamped. The rails all tended to point upwards by about 1-2 degrees, just enough to see a small 1/16" to 1/8" gap under them when laying the upper upside down on a flat surface.

[texterter]

That's a great looking rifle.

[goodlookin1]

I think the CMMG version is pretty secure. I'm typically pretty leary of the clamp style forends as well, but this one seems very solid. The steel barrel nut on this one is almost 3" long, and lightly knurled to provide extra friction when clamped down. My only worry about it is that the gas tube is not captured by the barrel nut at all, so any anti rotation provided by having the gas tube run through the barrel not is not provided on this design. I'm thinking of running a short riser or other low profile picatinny accessory over the gap between upper and forend to lock the two together.

I've used the Troy MRF rails in the past, and those end up being pretty secure when clamped down, but all 3 of the ones I used had the same issue of not aligning with the upper rail when clamped. The rails all tended to point upwards by about 1-2 degrees, just enough to see a small 1/16" to 1/8" gap under them when laying the upper upside down on a flat surface.

Thanks for the info. I decided to pull the trigger on the 15" CMMG rail based on your experience. To get that M110 look, however, I might have to cut the rail down to about 12.5" or so....the next size they had was 11.1", which to me made no sense, but whuddya gonna do....

[FMJBT]

Thanks for the info. I decided to pull the trigger on the 15" CMMG rail based on your experience. To get that M110 look, however, I might have to cut the rail down to about 12.5" or so....the next size they had was 11.1", which to me made no sense, but whuddya gonna do....

Looking at the layout of cooling slots and keymod holes on mine, it looks like you should be able to trim it down to 12.5"-12.625" by playing connect the dots between slots with a hacksaw. Should make for a very clean cut-off line. Don't forget to get a spanner wrench too for the barrel nut. I went with the McMaster Carr part (#5475A13) suggested by CMMG:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2739/=uhxjc2

[tonyxcom]

Here is my brother's. Total blast to shoot.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4481604/forum-pics/bigpew.jpg

[FMJBT]

^^^^
Nice!

At first and even second glance that looks like the real deal. Only after several minutes did I notice the DD forend and DPMS pattern receivers.

[goodlookin1]

Looking at the layout of cooling slots and keymod holes on mine, it looks like you should be able to trim it down to 12.5"-12.625" by playing connect the dots between slots with a hacksaw. Should make for a very clean cut-off line. Don't forget to get a spanner wrench too for the barrel nut. I went with the McMaster Carr part (#5475A13) suggested by CMMG:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2739/=uhxjc2

Thanks for the tip....I've been building for a few years now and have the all in one DPMS wrench which has served me well, amongst many other tools. About the only kind it wont install is the KAC equipment.