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  #1  
Old 07-25-2014, 1:41 PM
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Default Vader Spadeís Machining a Tactical Machining 80% 1911 Frame with a Small Mill

This is the way I do it; the machining guys will say there is a better way. And Iím sure there is, but if you donít want to spend thousands on edge finders, electronic probes, and other overpriced measuring devices this method will work just fine. Hell one of those machinist guys posted up a link to a $1,200.00 level. I donít need anything THAT level.
I square everything up with a piece of paper. I try to use recycled paper but Iíll admit I sometimes just grab a new piece from the printer.

Letís get started by marking everything out (mostly for the camera) I didn't have any layout fluid (Dykem) so I just used a green sharpie.



I used a caliper to scribe two lines. The first one is .099 from the top and the second .2170. This should give you .1180 between the lines. I plan to keep the lines until I get to the file work.




Here you can see the lines.




The jig is in the vise ready to get started.


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Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-25-2014 at 2:03 PM..
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Old 07-25-2014, 1:41 PM
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The first thing I do is to check to make sure everything is square and level. I do this with the aforementioned piece of paper.
I s-l-o-w-l-y raise the knee (many of you will be lowering the quill) until it just pinches the paper and then back it off so the paper just moves freely. I then keep the paper moving as I crank the X handle the full length of the frame. If it pinches the paper at any point stop and make adjustments. If it does not pinch the paper repeat the process going the other direction to make sure you didn’t gain any height with your bit. For the most part you can feel if the paper is getting looser.




I do this for both the top of the frame and the side of the frame.


I then carefully line up my cutting bit and we are ready to make the first cut. For every cut I move my bit away from the work piece to be sure any backlash is taken out when moving back in. As soon as I pinch my paper I set my zero. I don’t completely trust my dial but it gets me close. The calipers and my eye will do the rest.










The depth of the rail cut is .062. I took it in three cuts of .020 each carefully measuring between each cut.
I saw that my dial was cutting deeper than it was measuring so I made the adjustment before the final cut.
I cut both sides before touching the Z handle. Once I had the depth cut I measured the height (should be .1180) and saw it was a little thin (about .10) so I carefully measured everything, and saw that the extra needed to be removed from the bottom. I moved my cutter over the dust cover and brought it down till I pinched a thick piece of paper between the bit and dust cover. I then took a full .060 deep cut to remove the extra material.







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Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-25-2014 at 2:07 PM..
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Old 07-25-2014, 1:41 PM
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Moving on to the barrel seat.

This is pretty easy and straightforward. The first thing I do is to find the center. The width of the frame should be .7510. Half of that is .3755. I set my calipers for that and scribe a line. I then take anything with a sharp point chuck it up in the mill and position it over the line.







Swap out the probe for the 18mm ball nose end mill (or whatever you’re using) and bring it down using a piece of paper to set the starting point.



The depth of this cut is .080; I used caution and made 4 passes of .020 each carefully measuring between each pass.



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Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-25-2014 at 1:51 PM..
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Old 07-25-2014, 1:42 PM
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Looking good, On to the drilling.

Not much to be said about drilling. One thing that has come up is drill flex. Whenever I’m drilling with a bushing I don’t put the jig tight in the vise. Leave yourself a ľ inch or so. If the bit catches, the vise will stop it from spinning, otherwise the jig will self-center as you bring the bit down.





A mouse with 220 grit quickly takes off any mill marks. I'll clean that up a little more before the Cerakote.





The measurements are all nearly perfect but there's still a lot of fitting to do. That will need to wait till I'm in my easy chair watching a chick flick with the wife. Two birds with one stone.

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Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-26-2014 at 10:22 AM..
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Old 07-25-2014, 1:42 PM
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Notes;
I set my RPM’s to 750 and left the mill set at that for all operations.

I will update this thread whenever I find an easier way or find other good information.

My setup;
This is a little Grizzly I picked up off craigslist. It's not what I would call a mini mill but it is small.




This is a great set of drill bits from Harbor Freight, every size of bit, including numbered, lettered and, fractions. No mm but you can cross reference those. I picked up the whole set for $60.00 on sale;


Bits needed, and other links;

3/32 x .375 dia Key Seat Cutter
18mm 2 Flute Ball End Mill
.1575 (4mm)
.110 (#35)

I took my list directly from TM's website; http://www.tacticalmachining.com/tm-...rcent-new.html

I bought my key seat cutter here; https://www.mscdirect.com/

I caught a great deal for the 18mm ball nose on eBay for $20.00 shipped. I was used but perfect.

The drills I had, from the local Ace Hardware/Harbor Freight.

http://www.tacticalmachining.com/com...your-1911.html

http://www.tacticalmachining.com/tm-...rcent-new.html
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Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-25-2014 at 8:57 PM..
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Old 07-25-2014, 1:42 PM
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Here's one I finished earlier with cheap parts off of GunBroker. It's a great shooter and eats everything I feed it. It doesn't like 1 magazine out of about 30 different makes I have, I can live with that.



This next build is going to be a long slide and then I'll build a commander. I have Caspian slides for both of those builds.
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Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-25-2014 at 5:34 PM..
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Old 07-25-2014, 1:42 PM
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Saved 6
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Old 07-25-2014, 2:06 PM
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Nice job!
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Old 07-25-2014, 3:22 PM
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Default dimensions

This may be a noob question, but where do you get the specs from to cut to? Are you taking them from the parts, or is there a standard spec?
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Old 07-25-2014, 3:24 PM
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Standard blueprint specs. I'll see about posting something.
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Old 07-25-2014, 4:35 PM
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how do you measure for the radius of the barrel seat if you're going to file? I get how you did it here but still what size round file would one need and how far down do you measure the depth & radius for filing
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Old 07-25-2014, 4:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMartin1776 View Post
how do you measure for the radius of the barrel seat if you're going to file? I get how you did it here but still what size round file would one need and how far down do you measure the depth & radius for filing
Maybe the rock in a cave guy knows
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Old 07-25-2014, 4:49 PM
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I bet these pics are awesome, I hate the photobucket doesn't load on our work network
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Old 07-25-2014, 4:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMartin1776 View Post
how do you measure for the radius of the barrel seat if you're going to file? I get how you did it here but still what size round file would one need and how far down do you measure the depth & radius for filing
I'm no machinist, but if I were to do this, I would look at the 1911 prints and figure out how wide the diameter is for the barrel seat, and mark that on the frame. I would then find the center and start filing a channel right there to the deepest measurement. then I would check that measurement with a caliper to make sure its good. then I would use the half round file, staying within the edges marked earlier and just file til you hit the bottom of your channel.
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Old 07-25-2014, 5:17 PM
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Excellent tutorial! From a non-machinist this is going to be very helpful. Thank you. I plan to drill the holes on my frame with 5/32" and 7/64" bits. Then ream them with a #22 and #35 reamers respectively.
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Old 07-25-2014, 5:19 PM
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I'm so jealous and tagging this post. Very nice.
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Old 07-25-2014, 9:13 PM
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Nice! now let's see how you cerakote that beast and how you do it, thanks!
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Old 07-26-2014, 6:19 AM
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I actually used a 5/32 drill bit .15625, and a #35 .110

All the pins dropped right in on my last build. I haven't tried fitting anything on this one yet.
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Old 07-26-2014, 6:26 AM
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What is your quill speed for the woodruff cutter? Also what is the depth of the barrel seat cut? Thanks Jack

Last edited by edgerly779; 07-26-2014 at 6:33 AM..
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Old 07-26-2014, 6:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edgerly779 View Post
What is your quill speed for the woodruff cutter? Also what is the depth of the barrel seat cut? Thanks Jack
I used 750 RPM's for everything. The barrel seat cut is .080.
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Old 07-26-2014, 7:50 AM
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Thanks Randy
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Old 07-26-2014, 7:53 AM
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Hella of a project! Looks Great!
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Old 07-26-2014, 8:36 AM
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I like your technique with the paper but you need to account for its thickness. I routinely use paper to touch off of a part; the paper usually grabs when you are .003" to .004" away from the surface. That being said, I must commend you on a job well done making use of the tools you have at hand. That is very resourceful. I've never seen anyone "indicate" in alignment using paper.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:01 AM
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Thanks Randy BTW I like your paper method of setting part level to quill. I use a dial indicator to sweep the top and sides.
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Old 07-26-2014, 12:02 PM
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Was hoping you'd get one for the TM 1911. Nice job! Thanks for taking the time.
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Old 07-26-2014, 2:26 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to document your process here for the rest of us to see and reference.
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Old 07-26-2014, 2:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainShooter View Post
Excellent tutorial! From a non-machinist this is going to be very helpful. Thank you. I plan to drill the holes on my frame with 5/32" and 7/64" bits. Then ream them with a #22 and #35 reamers respectively.
Don't trust the decimal equivalent of your fractional bits. I have a high quality US made set; 7/64" bit is actually .110" at the shank and .111 on the flutes. #35 reamer fell thru the hole. Don't forget to countersink the holes also. A spotting bit work well for this.
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Old 07-26-2014, 3:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bauern View Post
Don't trust the decimal equivalent of your fractional bits. I have a high quality US made set; 7/64" bit is actually .110" at the shank and .111 on the flutes. #35 reamer fell thru the hole. Don't forget to countersink the holes also. A spotting bit work well for this.
Well thats damn close to be reaming too. Here's my rule of thumb for reaming holes

5/32" and under I go 1/64 undersize or there abouts.
5/32- .5" 1/32" undersize
.5" to 1.0" 3/64" under
1.0 and up I'm boring the hole out not reaming.

The reason is the bigger the drill the bigger it can drill over size and .015" on a .5 hole is nothing and a large drill can drill oversize easy.

The other thing is you can sharpen a reamer from over working it. but you can't fix a over sized hole that easy. tooling is expendable
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:56 AM
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Awesome Thread!!
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Old 07-27-2014, 8:07 PM
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I have been drilling to size, but I think it's too soon for me to say that it's the way to go. Problems may crop up but my first one is running great. The pins are not too snug.

I have always drilled my AR-15 to size and have had no problems whatsoever. Other say they have problems????
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Old 07-27-2014, 8:39 PM
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curious if one drills to size but pins are not snug what do you do?
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Old 07-27-2014, 8:56 PM
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and you say the aimsmall jig works in this capacity?
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Old 07-27-2014, 9:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osis32 View Post
and you say the aimsmall jig works in this capacity?
For drilling the holes it worked just fine. Cutting the rails with an end mill was a nail biter. You have to completely trust the jig because there is no way to adjust. My rails came out a few thousands low and I needed to mill the deck down. It worked but it's not right.
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Old 07-27-2014, 9:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMartin1776 View Post
curious if one drills to size but pins are not snug what do you do?
duracoat / cerakote. it will add thickness.
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Old 07-27-2014, 10:56 PM
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What is a Guhring drill
Can't use a regular drill ?
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:02 PM
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Would this be the correct Keyseat cutter ?

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

Or this one ?

http://www.maritool.com/Cutting-Tool...duct_info.html
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:10 AM
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^ they are the same, 303 standard.

Guhring is the mfg.
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Old 07-28-2014, 9:24 AM
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Any place to get an inexpensive ball nose end mill ?

Also what did you use to stake the plunger tube ?
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Old 07-28-2014, 9:42 AM
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I picked up my 18mm ball nose end mill on eBay. I got lucky and got a used one for $20.00 shipped.

I bought a plunger tube staking tool from Brownells; http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...tSearch=Search
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:31 PM
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Any other way to cut the barrel bed, $65 and up for a one time use bit is kinda high for me
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