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Ammo and Reloading Factory Ammunition, Reloading, Components, Load Data and more.

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  #1  
Old 03-04-2008, 8:51 AM
muntz muntz is offline
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Default Reloading w/ LC brass?

This will be my first time for reloading .223 for use in an AR.

Is Lake City brass in .223 thicker than commercial brass?

If so, how far under max load should I start? And how should I proceede to work up?
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2008, 8:59 AM
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LC is suppose to have thicker case walls than commercial brass. Fill a case of both with powder, then measure the weight. Might give you an indication of overall capacity.

The standard method is to start at 10% below max charge. Look for eccessive presure by examining cases after you fire them.

I usually work up my loads 1/2 grain at a time.
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Old 03-04-2008, 9:09 AM
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I use LC brass. Here is what I load.

Accurate 2230 24gr
winchester 55gr FMJ
magtech small rifel primer
OAL 2.224
out of a 16" 1=9 twist I get 2980 FPS and sub MOA out to 300 yd

Its a cheaper load but works very well.
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Last edited by CAT_101; 03-04-2008 at 9:11 AM..
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2008, 9:43 AM
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I'll be using Varget along with various bullets and weights from Sierra, Hornady, and cheep Winchester.

I'm not looking for max velocity but good fast and accurate loads in 55gr, 63gr, 69gr, and 75gr. I'm starting with Varget cause I use it for .308 and 30-06 loads.
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Old 03-04-2008, 10:04 AM
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What powder and bullets are you using? There are many people on this forum who has wealth of info.
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2008, 10:49 AM
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The bullets I have so far are:

Sierra 63 gr Semi Point
Sierra 69 gr HBT
Hornady 75 gr HBT
Win 55 gr SP

I'll be using once fired Lake City brass and virgin Winchester brass w/ WSR primers.
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2008, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muntz View Post
The bullets I have so far are:

Sierra 63 gr Semi Point
Sierra 69 gr HBT
Hornady 75 gr HBT
Win 55 gr SP

I'll be using once fired Lake City brass and virgin Winchester brass w/ WSR primers.
Don't use WSR primers in an AR15. They are not hard enough and will result in popped or flattened primers and possibly slamfires. Do a google search on it.

Some people might not have problems, but enough people do to make me not want to take the risk.
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  #8  
Old 03-04-2008, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Don't use WSR primers in an AR15.
I've heard this, too, but never came accross any info to back it up. But have heard from people who've been using them for years w/o any problems. I've been using WLR for my M1A and Garand for years with no problems. So I thought I'd give them a try.
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:36 AM
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i use wsr primers, on some hot loads too, no problems here! ive shot 2k reloads using WSR.
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2008, 11:36 AM
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I had a bunch of LC brass I had primed with WSR that I was using for practice ammo (non-match use) and I was piercing primers at a rate of 1 per 20 rounds. Even after swapping for a new firing pin. This was with a mild load of 24.0gr Varget, 75gr Hornady BTHP, and LC03.

I switched to CCI 400 for practice. I now also use Remington 7-1/2, but only because Bass Pro Shop was selling them for $17.95 per brick ever since they opened in Rancho Cucamonga. Unfortunately, they 'corrected' the price according to a friend that went there last week to get some. Luckily, I took the liberty of cleaning the BPS shelf of Remington 7-1/2 primers everytime I passed by.
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2008, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muntz View Post
I've heard this, too, but never came accross any info to back it up. But have heard from people who've been using them for years w/o any problems. I've been using WLR for my M1A and Garand for years with no problems. So I thought I'd give them a try.
The old silver colored (nickel plated) WSR primers are fine.

The newer ones from the past few years no longer have the nickel plating as a cost cutting measure , they are the ones that people have been having problems with.
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Old 03-04-2008, 12:28 PM
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Wish I would've heard that intel before I bought 1,500 of them!
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2008, 12:56 PM
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1K here. But I've heard of way more people not having problems with them than the ones that do.

Anyway, to get back on subject. If, say, 26.0 gr. would be the max load published, and I'm using LC brass, how far below the 26.0 should I stay?

I know that I need to start low and work up, I just don't want to waste any time or materials on any loads which are pushing the case capacity or pressures to the danger zone. So if the max load were 26.0 should I not plan on making any loads hotter than 25.5?
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Old 03-04-2008, 1:03 PM
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Every rifle and even brass are different. As mentioned earlier, best to work to the max load usually starting at 10% less.
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Old 03-04-2008, 1:29 PM
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Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the max load for a .223 without having a crimped primer is around 24.5? 26 sounds way too hot for civilian reloading.
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  #16  
Old 03-04-2008, 2:05 PM
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Quote:
Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the max load for a .223 without having a crimped primer is around 24.5? 26 sounds way too hot for civilian reloading.
I just used 26.0 gr as a hypothetical load to try and figure out what the relationship between max load and LC brass should be.
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  #17  
Old 03-04-2008, 2:07 PM
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LC brass is no thicker, nor does it have any less case capcity, than commercial. In fact, it has more case capacity than most. Check here:

http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html
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Old 03-04-2008, 2:14 PM
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Never had an issue with WSR primers. Make sure you swedge out the primer pocket if it has the crimp on it.
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Old 03-04-2008, 2:17 PM
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Swage
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Old 03-04-2008, 2:45 PM
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I measured and documented a bunch of different 223 cases.
Military cases did NOT show enough difference in weight to worry about segregating military and commercial brass before loading.
In fact, some commercial brass is considerably heavier than most military brass.

www.ar15barrels.com/data/223weights.xls

Where you WILL see the difference is in 308 or 30-06 brass.
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  #21  
Old 03-04-2008, 2:51 PM
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Quote:
LC brass is no thicker, nor does it have any less case capcity, than commercial. In fact, it has more case capacity than most. Check here:

http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html
Awsome info, thanks. It was just what I was looking for.
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2008, 3:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocabj View Post

I now also use Remington 7-1/2, but only because Bass Pro Shop was selling them for $17.95 per brick ever since they opened in Rancho Cucamonga. Unfortunately, they 'corrected' the price according to a friend that went there last week to get some. Luckily, I took the liberty of cleaning the BPS shelf of Remington 7-1/2 primers everytime I passed by.
I just went by there today and they had bricks of Remington 5 1/2 small pistol primers at $17.90. They only had two so I bought both. They rang up at over $40 bucks each and then I told her that the tag said 17.90 and she called up for a price check but they were taking too long so she just hung up and sold them to me for $17.90.
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  #23  
Old 03-06-2008, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post

Where you WILL see the difference is in 308 or 30-06 brass.
I second that. Definately see the thickness difference with LC 7.62 brass vs commercial brass. I do not reload 5.56 yet so cannot say if its thicker or not.
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  #24  
Old 03-07-2008, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draconianruler View Post
I do not reload 5.56 yet so cannot say if its thicker or not.
It's not thicker.
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Old 03-07-2008, 8:16 AM
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LC used to be thicker in the web area compared to commercial. I think it still is to some respects, but as far as case volume is concerned, it's neglible now.

Now Lapua .223 brass on the other hand, that stuff is definitely thicker. Drop your load at least half a grain when going from LC to Lapua.
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