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  #1  
Old 02-04-2008, 4:55 PM
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Default AR-10 Bolt Carrier Jams

I'm trying to figure out what the problem is on my AR-10. I took it out to Angeles this past Saturday, and everytime i put a new mag in a and pulled the charging handle(MM grip installed), the bolt carrier would not push all the way forward. It would push the first round into the chamber, but the bolt would stop right before sitting flush w/ the chamber (not far enough to use the forward assist). Then i would need to pull the charging handle again to get the round out, and will keep trying until it would work. Problem continued almost every time i put a new mag in.

Fulton Lower
DPMS Panther LR-308 upper
A2 stock w/ monter man grip

I was thinking that it could be the recoil spring, buffer tube, or the bolt carrier itself??? I've put about 100 rounds through her in two different trips to the range. First time out, only happened once, so I didn't think it was a problem. This second time out... If it wasn't for my other rifles, i would've had my worst day out at the range

If anyone else has experienced this problem, let me know. Need to fix this problem ASAP. It's been bothering me all weekend.
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Old 02-04-2008, 5:05 PM
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What kind of ammo are you using? My guess would be the ammo is out of spec or your chamber is too tight or dirty.
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Old 02-04-2008, 6:38 PM
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Both Black Hills & Hornady 168gr match bthp.
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Old 02-04-2008, 6:47 PM
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Do you have the right spring and buffer for a 308?
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Old 02-04-2008, 6:53 PM
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Is the bolt carrier wet with lube?
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2008, 7:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfdog View Post
Do you have the right spring and buffer for a 308?
Not sure? I bought this from a buddy of mines, and that is what i was thinking. Could be a spring & buffer for a 223.
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Old 02-04-2008, 7:32 PM
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Is the bolt carrier wet with lube?
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yesask211 View Post
Could be a spring & buffer for a 223.
223 buffers won't fit, or at least they won't have enough stroke to run properly.
Are you able to latch the bolt catch on the face of the bolt, not just the front edge of the carrier?

Are you charging by pulling back on the charging handle and letting it fly, or by depressing the bolt release with the charging handle already latched forward?
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:53 PM
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There is a video of an AR problem like yours and the gun had an out of battery event - blow out mag - safety glasse torn off face - left hand hurt and burnt.

His rifle kept not fully chambering the rounds and he pushed and pounded the rear charging handle forward to force the round fully home. Then when he did not notice the bolt fully forward -BLAMO- out of battery smokey firey event.

Timing? Headspace? Too Tight? Worn or correct springs?

I would get a really good idea what is going on with the gun or take it to qualified AR gun smith. PM ar15barrels. If the charging handing sticks out or does not fully lock and you are banging it home - stop shooting the rifle.

I will look for link for AR malfunction blow up.
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:11 PM
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Was it home built? If so, did you check if the headspace is correctly set? Buy a headspace dummy round to check the headspace rather than using a live round.
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Old 02-05-2008, 6:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Are you charging by pulling back on the charging handle and letting it fly, or by depressing the bolt release with the charging handle already latched forward?
I tried both, and both ran into the same problem. The only way i got it to work (after so many times) was by pulling the charging handle and letting it go. If i mess with it for a few times, it will finally work. But each time, i have to get the round out of the chamber, and it became a big hassle.
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Old 02-05-2008, 7:05 AM
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FYI. Your build isn't an AR-10. Its just a 308 build.
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Old 02-09-2008, 9:46 AM
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Default One more thing to check

Did this problem manifest itself with every round in the magazine, or only when the magazine was full?

If the mag spring is excessively stiff there might be some issues along the lines of what you describe.
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Old 02-09-2008, 9:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornholio1 View Post
FYI. Your build isn't an AR-10. Its just a 308 build.
+1 it is not, I Quote an "AR 10" it is an oll .308!
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Old 02-09-2008, 5:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenLee View Post
+1 it is not, I Quote an "AR 10" it is an oll .308!
At the risk of hijacking the thread, if we can use the term "AR-15" generically (and we do) we can use the term "AR-10" generically.
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  #16  
Old 02-09-2008, 6:43 PM
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I have a Fulton Tac 20. AR-10 clone. It had the same problems.
The Bolts are real tight. Use lots of oil on bolt. Heck 100 rounds is nothing. It takes about 500 to 700 to get it broke in. These Tac 20s are meant to shoot Federal 150 gr. Keep lots of OIL on the bolt and shoot the hell out of it.
Also use a chamber brush and Brush chamber real good every hundred rounds.
That should fix the cycling.
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2008, 8:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Experimentalist View Post
At the risk of hijacking the thread, if we can use the term "AR-15" generically (and we do) we can use the term "AR-10" generically.
The AR-15 trademark is expired, but the AR-10 trademark is not expired.
AR-15's all follow a common spec and parts are mostly interchangable.
Only some parts are interchangable with an AR-10 and other 308 AR variants.
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  #18  
Old 02-10-2008, 7:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Experimentalist View Post
Did this problem manifest itself with every round in the magazine, or only when the magazine was full?

If the mag spring is excessively stiff there might be some issues along the lines of what you describe.
+1 to this. Does it only do it w/ full mags? Try just putting 2 rounds in the a mag and see if it works. I thought I would be cute and use a pneumatic buffer in my AR and it worked fine as long as the mag was only 3/4 full. It wouldn't strip a round off a full mag.

As others have said, make sure the locking lugs in the front of the chamber are nice and clean.
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Old 02-10-2008, 9:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rg_1111@yahoo.com View Post
I have a Fulton Tac 20. AR-10 clone. It had the same problems.
The Bolts are real tight. Use lots of oil on bolt. Heck 100 rounds is nothing. It takes about 500 to 700 to get it broke in. These Tac 20s are meant to shoot Federal 150 gr. Keep lots of OIL on the bolt and shoot the hell out of it.
Also use a chamber brush and Brush chamber real good every hundred rounds.
That should fix the cycling.
Ditto keeping the bolt clean and lubed. Mine will have the same issues if it gets dirty or I try to give it ****ty surplus ammo (learned the hard way with a nasty jam). Lubed and clean with good ammo and she'll run like a champ.
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  #20  
Old 02-11-2008, 7:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
The AR-15 trademark is expired, but the AR-10 trademark is not expired.
AR-15's all follow a common spec and parts are mostly interchangable.
Only some parts are interchangable with an AR-10 and other 308 AR variants.
I'll be darned. I thought the AR-10 sensitivity was due to some perceived "on list" legality.

I stand corrected.
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  #21  
Old 02-12-2008, 9:42 PM
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For some reason the DPMS uppers and bolts are very tight. If you take the upper off you should see how much resistance there is to cycle the action by pulling and pushing on the back of the carrier. Keeping it clean and lubed should help.

Armalite AR-10 uppers have almost no resistance to the bolt cycling.
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