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  #161  
Old 10-24-2013, 7:40 PM
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Originally Posted by onefortheroad View Post
Just got my blem today. Only problem I can see is a rough finish in two areas. I put an upper on it and the take down pins lined up fine and was a snug fit.
I'll get to finishing it in the next week or two when I have some free time at my shop. I decided to make it a dedicated .22 since I already have a .223. Saves me $$ when I take friends shooting.
Mine came today and this was the case with mine as well. At first I thought they messed up and didn't send a blemished one. This is a great deal for $35 if you don't care about the finish.
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  #162  
Old 10-24-2013, 8:18 PM
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Yeah I got my lowers yesterday, and they were great. No random holes, cracks, or thin walls or anything, and they feel pretty tough. Just a rough finish in some spots, as if they were rubbed with sand paper once or twice. Really no big deal, plus huge savings. Cool colors too.
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  #163  
Old 10-24-2013, 9:44 PM
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Got my "blemished" lower yesterday. Other than a rough spot on the outer surface, it looks fine. Takedown holes line up fine. There's a little gap between lower and upper, but no worse than some inexpensive aluminum lowers I've built on in the past. Should make a serviceable lower. For $35, I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth.
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  #164  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:01 PM
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Looks like pink and green are in stock.

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  #165  
Old 10-25-2013, 4:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RookieShooter View Post
Check out this review.
betcha he messed it up. anyone else find a hole in their receiver?

I also like that classic line

"does the military use them?! no, they are garbage"

almost as great as an argument as "SEAL team 6 uses X gun so therefore it is the best gun in the world"
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  #166  
Old 10-25-2013, 7:58 PM
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Hey guys, has anyone else ran into this issue?

I was almost done with a pink blem that was going to be for my girlfriend's build, when I noticed a fairly sizeable void in the polymer.

My hand did not slip, the cutter did not chatter. If I could take a better picture, you would be able to see the fine fibers that are used in the polymer. There are a couple of more on the other side as well.

The largest void is close to, but slightly behind where the hammer pin would be. It's about half an inch long, and 3/16th of an inch wide. Can't tell how thick the polymer is there.

I'm awaiting a reply from EPArmory, and attached the best picture I could of the large void. What do you guys think? If I finish it, is this safe to shoot?
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File Type: jpg DSCF0148.jpg (75.9 KB, 195 views)
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  #167  
Old 10-25-2013, 8:23 PM
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You're going to have to take more material off anyways for the parts to fit
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  #168  
Old 10-25-2013, 9:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 2DoorImpala View Post
You're going to have to take more material off anyways for the parts to fit
This isn't the first one I've done, but it is the first that I've heard of them having a void. Makes me question the product as a whole

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  #169  
Old 10-25-2013, 11:19 PM
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itll be safe to shoot, the worst that happen is it wont hold the lower parts.
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  #170  
Old 10-26-2013, 2:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dung8604 View Post
Hey guys, has anyone else ran into this issue?

I was almost done with a pink blem that was going to be for my girlfriend's build, when I noticed a fairly sizeable void in the polymer.

My hand did not slip, the cutter did not chatter. If I could take a better picture, you would be able to see the fine fibers that are used in the polymer. There are a couple of more on the other side as well.

The largest void is close to, but slightly behind where the hammer pin would be. It's about half an inch long, and 3/16th of an inch wide. Can't tell how thick the polymer is there.

I'm awaiting a reply from EPArmory, and attached the best picture I could of the large void. What do you guys think? If I finish it, is this safe to shoot?
Like 2Door said, you'll need to go beyond that to fit the parts anyway. I've done a bunch of these and have yet to run into a void.

I've learned that the different colored polymer is just a guide and the opening needs to widened up all around, so you should be good to move forward.

I've also learned, you'll be waiting a Long time for that reply, lol. I had a pink blem that, when the lpk was installed with the .154 hammer pin, the fire control group would lock up. If I stuck a smaller diameter punch in, it operated just fine. Something is off, but no reply from Chris via email or Facebook.

Let us know how it goes!
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  #171  
Old 10-27-2013, 10:34 AM
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Once completed, how durable are these EP lowers? Anyone with firsthand experience know? The thought of it's simplicity is appealing, however, it'll still take a considerable amount of time to complete and the finished product MAY not be an ideal base platform for a defensive AR-15. I understand the argument about glock using polymer, but that was designed from the beginning to use polymer for the frames (unlike the AR-15 lower).
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  #172  
Old 10-27-2013, 10:56 AM
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I'm gonna abuse it when it's done but I'm not gonna use it as a defense fun. No way man.
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  #173  
Old 10-27-2013, 1:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Robin View Post
Once completed, how durable are these EP lowers? Anyone with firsthand experience know? The thought of it's simplicity is appealing, however, it'll still take a considerable amount of time to complete and the finished product MAY not be an ideal base platform for a defensive AR-15. I understand the argument about glock using polymer, but that was designed from the beginning to use polymer for the frames (unlike the AR-15 lower).
the AR used Aluminum back when that was space age stuff when compared to the steel of other guns.

im sure if they have the types of polymers that we have today, it could be a different story. I think they have stayed with aluminum because its a tried and proven design along with the fact that aluminum is pretty cheap. just take a look at the prices between a polymer and aluminum, there isn't much of a difference.
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  #174  
Old 10-27-2013, 1:31 PM
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anyone have a hard time threading the buffer tube on?
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  #175  
Old 10-28-2013, 10:53 AM
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anyone have a hard time threading the buffer tube on?
Go slow, and back off when it gets super tight. The buffer tube will slightly open up the threads. You end up with a nice snug fit. The buffer tube fit was one of the few redeeming qualities to these things.
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  #176  
Old 10-28-2013, 10:58 AM
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i'll try my best! it's nerve wrecking as heck though lol
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  #177  
Old 10-28-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Robin View Post
Once completed, how durable are these EP lowers? Anyone with firsthand experience know? The thought of it's simplicity is appealing, however, it'll still take a considerable amount of time to complete and the finished product MAY not be an ideal base platform for a defensive AR-15. I understand the argument about glock using polymer, but that was designed from the beginning to use polymer for the frames (unlike the AR-15 lower).
They don't use the same dimensions as aluminum. There are some reinforcement ribs, the buffer tube ring is oversized, and the polymer is fiber filled so it can't really crack. I'm not even remotely happy with EPL, but the polymer isn't really the issue. I would look at James Madison Tactical. I got mine done over the weekend, and while they only come in black, they blow EPL away in every other category. I will give it some range time to be sure, but it will probably be my go to lower. Polymer 80 is also looking promising.
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  #178  
Old 10-28-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Fryall4 View Post
Like 2Door said, you'll need to go beyond that to fit the parts anyway. I've done a bunch of these and have yet to run into a void.
Mine has several voids. And it was the replacement for one with rear holes way off, and the replacement had rear holes that were not only off but misaligned. Maybe I just got the short straw to get two duds in a row, but seeing as they made me pay for return shipping and sent an even worse replacement, I'm just putting them in the suckage category.
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  #179  
Old 10-28-2013, 3:20 PM
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Mine has several voids. And it was the replacement for one with rear holes way off, and the replacement had rear holes that were not only off but misaligned. Maybe I just got the short straw to get two duds in a row, but seeing as they made me pay for return shipping and sent an even worse replacement, I'm just putting them in the suckage category.
Voids. Lot of them:

P1000188.JPG

P1000185.JPG
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  #180  
Old 10-28-2013, 3:22 PM
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Compared to a JMT lower (where every imperfection is thanks to either me starting out with bad HF tools or me being less than perfect with the milling dials):

P1000194.JPG
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  #181  
Old 10-28-2013, 3:42 PM
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Originally Posted by inbox485 View Post
Mine has several voids. And it was the replacement for one with rear holes way off, and the replacement had rear holes that were not only off but misaligned. Maybe I just got the short straw to get two duds in a row, but seeing as they made me pay for return shipping and sent an even worse replacement, I'm just putting them in the suckage category.
So I finished it up, and this is the second lower in a row in which the safety selector holes were too low, not allowing the trigger to release the hammer.

I don't get how I could screw up two of them m the exact same way. I was careful with both, but much more so with this second one. I stepped up through like six different drill sizes, then when I got to 5/32, I used a step drill to work it up to full size on this last one. I don't want to blame the lower, but I can't figure out how I got the exact same problem twice in a row, when I was actually looking out to avoid the problem. Did anyone else have this issue?

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  #182  
Old 10-28-2013, 4:39 PM
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So I finished it up, and this is the second lower in a row in which the safety selector holes were too low, not allowing the trigger to release the hammer.

I don't get how I could screw up two of them m the exact same way. I was careful with both, but much more so with this second one. I stepped up through like six different drill sizes, then when I got to 5/32, I used a step drill to work it up to full size on this last one. I don't want to blame the lower, but I can't figure out how I got the exact same problem twice in a row, when I was actually looking out to avoid the problem. Did anyone else have this issue?

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I had one hole a hair off from the other which causes the selector to dig into the side and be stiff, but it wasn't too low. I wouldn't do the step up IMO. Some people swear by it, but in my experience, every hole has a bit of bias (how you hold the drill influencing if it leans a tad in one direction), and stepping up just multiplies the bias. I used a drill press and an xy table (that is overkill BTW, no need to go there unless you want the tools in general), but I've seen videos of magwell vice clamps and free hand going strait to the full hole size and working. Having a drill bit with a good tip is critical though. I'd buy a brand new one if you need to. The sell bits with steeper tips if you go that way. For the couple that came out low, you could fill, mark the correct spot, and redrill. That isn't a high stress area.

On a side note, EPL PM'd me saying that they had a material vendor issue that may have caused my issues. If they want to make it right, I'll happily report back on it.
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  #183  
Old 10-28-2013, 5:31 PM
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Originally Posted by inbox485 View Post
I had one hole a hair off from the other which causes the selector to dig into the side and be stiff, but it wasn't too low. I wouldn't do the step up IMO. Some people swear by it, but in my experience, every hole has a bit of bias (how you hold the drill influencing if it leans a tad in one direction), and stepping up just multiplies the bias. I used a drill press and an xy table (that is overkill BTW, no need to go there unless you want the tools in general), but I've seen videos of magwell vice clamps and free hand going strait to the full hole size and working. Having a drill bit with a good tip is critical though. I'd buy a brand new one if you need to. The sell bits with steeper tips if you go that way. For the couple that came out low, you could fill, mark the correct spot, and redrill. That isn't a high stress area.

On a side note, EPL PM'd me saying that they had a material vendor issue that may have caused my issues. If they want to make it right, I'll happily report back on it.
Yeah, that's a good point. I'll probably fill it and try again. Let us know what happens, please, they have not replied back to my email yet.

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  #184  
Old 10-29-2013, 5:47 AM
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If you are having a hard time centering the selector and trigger pin holes, this is my advice,

Drill the center of the holes out with the smallest drill bit you have. Then cut the guide nipples off. You are now going to use the small hole you drilled to center the hole. Then proceed with larger bit or go to the correct size bit if you are comfortable.

I found using the guides not very consistent. My drill bits would tend to walk away from center even when using a drill press. After I boogered up one hole, I went with the method I suggested and the rest came out perfect.
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  #185  
Old 10-29-2013, 10:01 AM
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If you are having a hard time centering the selector and trigger pin holes, this is my advice,

Drill the center of the holes out with the smallest drill bit you have. Then cut the guide nipples off. You are now going to use the small hole you drilled to center the hole. Then proceed with larger bit or go to the correct size bit if you are comfortable.

I found using the guides not very consistent. My drill bits would tend to walk away from center even when using a drill press. After I boogered up one hole, I went with the method I suggested and the rest came out perfect.
I like that idea. I noticed the bit walking and compensated by getting the bit as high up in the chuck as I could to minimize flex. It has to do with the angle of most bits not being as steep as the intent angles. So using a tiny bit followed by the full sized bit might make sense. I still wouldn't do any intermediate steps though. If I were doing a bunch of these, I'd take one to a tool store and get a steeper bit that fit the guide angle better and stick to that.

Other tip is to moderate your drill speed and rate. When you drill, the two flutes are all but guaranteed to not grab 100% equally which causes them to pull in one direction. If you slow the speed and rate, you give it a chance to pull the biased chip out then complete the hole (since now the other side would be biased) instead of flexing into the bias.

I'm not an expert, but those are a few tips some experts gave me back when I had to do some sub 0.001 tolerance work.
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  #186  
Old 10-29-2013, 11:03 AM
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Great advice, guys, thanks. I still have one black left. Debating if I want to complete it or not.

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  #187  
Old 11-15-2013, 1:00 AM
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How are the lowers holding up? I still haven't even started completing mine yet. Will let you guys know if they fail at the range, when I do finally get around to it.
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  #188  
Old 11-16-2013, 3:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dung8604 View Post
So I finished it up, and this is the second lower in a row in which the safety selector holes were too low, not allowing the trigger to release the hammer.

I don't get how I could screw up two of them m the exact same way. I was careful with both, but much more so with this second one. I stepped up through like six different drill sizes, then when I got to 5/32, I used a step drill to work it up to full size on this last one. I don't want to blame the lower, but I can't figure out how I got the exact same problem twice in a row, when I was actually looking out to avoid the problem. Did anyone else have this issue?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
Had the exact same issues on two green lowers. Turns out I now own two expensive pieces of useless plastic and wasted a ton of time doing the milling and fitting. Not impressed at all What they call a blemish is actually a major out of spec product.

Last edited by whatmeworry; 11-16-2013 at 3:19 AM..
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  #189  
Old 11-16-2013, 6:59 AM
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Originally Posted by whatmeworry View Post
Had the exact same issues on two green lowers. Turns out I now own two expensive pieces of useless plastic and wasted a ton of time doing the milling and fitting. Not impressed at all What they call a blemish is actually a major out of spec product.
That's what I've been trying to convey to everyone about these "Blemished" lower. These lowers are flimsy plastic, way out of spec and not worth the time to fix it.
IT'S A PIECE OF JUNK.
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  #190  
Old 11-16-2013, 7:09 AM
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That's what I've been trying to convey to everyone about these "Blemished" lower. These lowers are flimsy plastic, way out of spec and not worth the time to fix it.
IT'S A PIECE OF JUNK.
put jb weld on it. I bought my blemished as a stand in until I get my aluminum one with jig complete. JB weld and the screws and holes fit just fine, itll function enough so I don't have a constructive possession case on my butt
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  #191  
Old 11-16-2013, 7:15 AM
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put jb weld on it. I bought my blemished as a stand in until I get my aluminum one with jig complete. JB weld and the screws and holes fit just fine, itll function enough so I don't have a constructive possession case on my butt
Even if JB weld will fix the problem, I don't trust the quality of this lower. I'm going to wait to see the field report on it.
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  #192  
Old 11-16-2013, 7:40 AM
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Even if JB weld will fix the problem, I don't trust the quality of this lower. I'm going to wait to see the field report on it.
there are a few videos showing it already.
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  #193  
Old 12-19-2013, 9:38 PM
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these guys just changes their description of what a 'blem' is. I guess that's the way they tell the customers to f*** off. I am so glad I didn't give in to the temptations.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Old description:

These "Blemished 80% Lower" units do not have a warranty.

These units have been found to have guide pins broken off on one or both sides, unclear safety fire markings, scratches in the surface or small gouges. Units can still be completed as the standard EP80's or can be finished with the use of a jig system. These units vary in finishes and defects may differ.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------

new description:

These "Blemished 80% Lower" units DO NOT have a warranty.

These units have been found to have guide pins broken off on one or both sides, unclear safety fire markings, scratches or chips in the surface, small gouges or possible to have other problems. Units can still be completed and or finished with the use of a jig system by experienced builders. These units vary in finishes and defects may differ but all sales are final.
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  #194  
Old 12-19-2013, 10:15 PM
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Lots of really bad reviews on the blemished products. It seems to be more than a cosmetic problem......many if them seem to be functionally deficient.
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  #195  
Old 12-19-2013, 10:33 PM
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I said it before, how many blems can a company have? To me it says something about the product.
So now that I bought one of these turds under the old blem description will they take it back?
These guys piss me off so bad. They knew they were straight up screwing people.
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  #196  
Old 12-20-2013, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by bksa View Post
these guys just changes their description of what a 'blem' is. I guess that's the way they tell the customers to f*** off. I am so glad I didn't give in to the temptations.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Old description:

These "Blemished 80% Lower" units do not have a warranty.

These units have been found to have guide pins broken off on one or both sides, unclear safety fire markings, scratches in the surface or small gouges. Units can still be completed as the standard EP80's or can be finished with the use of a jig system. These units vary in finishes and defects may differ.


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new description:

These "Blemished 80% Lower" units DO NOT have a warranty.

These units have been found to have guide pins broken off on one or both sides, unclear safety fire markings, scratches or chips in the surface, small gouges or possible to have other problems. Units can still be completed and or finished with the use of a jig system by experienced builders. These units vary in finishes and defects may differ but all sales are final.

They might as well just mail people empty boxes and say: oh by the way the problem with this blem lower is that it doesn't exist. Thanks for the cash money tho.
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  #197  
Old 12-20-2013, 6:42 PM
compshell compshell is offline
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I purchased a few of these lowers (not the blemished ones) to try out.
http://www.eparmory.com/EP80-Receive.../ep80black.htm

I have 2 that I would like to sell for 62 shipped each. Will post in the sale ad but wanted to share with you guys how my build went. Just PM me if you are interested.

I completed one using a basic dremel and 1 dremel bit, and a cordless drill with 2 drill bits, tap for the grip and a bench top vise. No other tools were used.

Took about 45 minutes and some patience, had to let my dremel cool off as I did not want to burn it out. Over all it is an easy build. I had to clearance a small area (pictured) where the rear take down pin head would hit material due the the take down hole being about .5mm off from EP.




Here are some pics of it complete. I took it out to the range and it worked as good as my high$$$ setup pictured with it. I did add the anti rotation pins for added security. It was a fun build overall and well worth the $65 and time I put into it. I hope those of you that purchased one from EP can use your creativity and complete it! I know it can be done.



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  #198  
Old 01-08-2014, 8:29 PM
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prime mover prime mover is offline
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Me and the guys at work bought 10 of these in a group buy, 2 broke at the rear from the takedown pin hole to the outside one of them was on the second shot! One had such porosity the guy stopped working on it and threw it in the trash. 2 more are done but there's a 1 mm gap between the upper and lower mostly towards the rear.
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  #199  
Old 01-08-2014, 11:27 PM
wooward wooward is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compshell View Post
I have 2 that I would like to sell for 62 shipped each. Will post in the sale ad but wanted to share with you guys how my build went. Just PM me if you are interested.
Are you saying that you finished the 80% lower to make it a functional lower receiver? If so, and you sell them, that would make you a gun manufacturer which I believe you'll have to have a license for. Please check the laws regarding this but I don't suspect this is legal to do without the proper paperwork/licensing.
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  #200  
Old 01-09-2014, 12:11 AM
compshell compshell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wooward View Post
Are you saying that you finished the 80% lower to make it a functional lower receiver? If so, and you sell them, that would make you a gun manufacturer which I believe you'll have to have a license for. Please check the laws regarding this but I don't suspect this is legal to do without the proper paperwork/licensing.
I am selling 2 non blem 80% lowers as received from ep. I ended up only needing 2 so I have a couple for sale. They have not been modified, hence why I state what tools will be needed to complete the lower.
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