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#83
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Thanks for the heads up. Picked up a black blem, should be a piece of cake to get done on the mini-mill.
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#84
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15 Black
139 Zombie Green Left in stock now. I need a new gun safe for all the poly's!
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#86
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What makes you say that? The ones I received had only the rear takedown pin hole out of alignment, should be an easy fix and isn't critical anyway. Otherwise they looked perfect.
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#87
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#89
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I received 2 lowers yesterday and I'm disappointed with the quality. Both of them are out of spec. The rear takedown pin hole is out of alignment, doesn't fit any of my uppers properly and can't close the rear takedown pin without additional modification.
You can see some big gap between the lower and the upper. I wonder if they let me return them. ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by RookieShooter; 10-11-2013 at 8:14 AM.. Reason: resizing images |
#90
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I plan on filling the rear takedown hole with epoxy and then drilling it again through the middle. This stuff: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epx...tic-Bonder.htm |
#93
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Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4 |
#94
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I'm thinking of filling the entire hole, and then relocating the take down pin hole, which the center would reside in the epoxy material. Shouldn't be too hard, as long as I step up the drill sizes properly. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4 |
#95
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Blems usually mean cosmetic "blemishes."
If these are actually out of spec, they are being marketed in a very questionable fashion.
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#96
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I just re-checked three completed (one 1st issue black, one blem pink and one blem desert) and the two blemished desert tan's that I just got in and they all mate up to a new PSA upper just fine.
I can check with a Ptac and a Colt upper, if anyone cares, but I imagine they fit fine. The rear takedown pin does fit high and tight, but it does go in. On both completed desert tan 80's, I had to rework the boss around the rear takedown pin to allow the head of the pin to sit flush. Very minor stuff, and in fact I did it with an exacto knife. The black and the pink versions required no rework in that area, FYI.
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#97
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Since you've done three of them, what is the best method to complete, in your opinion? Dremel the whole thing out? No drill press, unfortunately. Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4 |
#98
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I will drill the hammer, trigger and selector holes before milling the pocket, just through the sides of the lower and not through the material that will be removed. It seems to not grab and bite as much as when done after the milling process and I have screwed a selector hole up doing it afterward. I'll use my drill press with a 3/8" 4 flute, center cut end mill. The end mill bit was like, $5 on Amazon. I just plunge cut (straight down, move the lower, straight down...) till the unnecessary material is removed from the pocket, making sure the lower is level to the press. I have an X Y table for the drill press, so I will go back and clean up, moving front to back and side to side. I'll then use the Dremel with a 1/4" sanding disk to smooth it out, then back to the press with a 1/4" end mill to cut the opening for the trigger and back to the Dremel to do the final routing to fit the trigger assembly. An inexpensive drill press can be had at Harbor Freight for around $50 with coupons, and the X Y table for about the same, although not necessary. Guys finish these things with just the Dremel all the time, I just happened to have all the gear already. I just picked up a cylindrical cutter for the Dremel and will try that next Amazon Cyl. Cutter. I prefer the end mill, the final product just turns out cleaner. I have messed up the upper/lower mating surface given too much time with the Dremel... I can't be trusted with handheld tools, lol.
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★AR15 Parts and Accessories For Sale★ Last edited by Fryall4; 10-11-2013 at 2:05 PM.. |
#99
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#100
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#101
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If you were so inclined to "fix" a hole like that, you could try filling the holes with plastic epoxy one side at a time and use the upper as a drill guide to get a custom fit. I would plan on it taking two sessions with 2 day cure times between them. Would be a royal PITA so I wouldn't do it unless it was nonreturnable, and you simply wanted to.
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#102
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From Facebook
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#103
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Glad I saw the fitment pics before buying one.
Man these guys sure do how a LOT of blems. Matter of fact Ive never seen any company have so many.
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#105
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I think the big blem sale is them getting rid of their non blems that were out of spec. Maybe that's why there are so many. These types of 80's seem like they will become more popular now that all the CNC shops are getting shut down.
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#107
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^nice.
I think we can call the market flooded, there is still over 400 blems left. I have one of those under the bed rubbermaids full of 80% so I think its time to buy a drill press and some uppers.
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#110
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Bumping this thread since the talk of fitment issue
How would I go about getting the take down pin to fit the upper? I was thinking of just starting cheap and taking some material off the pin going with its curve then re bluing? ![]() This is a 9mm build |
#111
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Why'd you drill the hole there on the lower? The lower didn't come with any holes right? So you basically could have chosen the location of the hole to match your upper, but you didn't lol (Actually disregard above; lower came like that, which is stupid on EP's part) If you do your idea of putting in a shaved pin, then it would just rattle around, because the two holes in the lower are round, and not curved (i.e. sickle shaped). So you would somehow need a pin that is shaved in the middle, but still full on the ends to match the holes in the lower. But how would you get such a pin through to the other hole on the lower lol. I would just try to fill the gap between the lower and upper somehow. Or drill new holes in the lower, put in a washer or something on the new holes to strengthen them, and then fill in the remnants of the old holes somehow. Or you could make the new holes so large that it incorporates the old holes, and then you put in a washer, or some kind of hollow cylindrical spacers or something in the holes to match the diameter of the pin for the upper. Hopefully mine don't have this problem, but I suspect they do. **** sucks. Maybe you can make a new lower out of play-doh or cardboard lol. |
#112
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If that is a blem, then you over drill one side, fill the other with plastic epoxy, then drill using the upper as a guide. Then fill the first side, and drill again using the upper as a guide. You will have a perfect fit.
If that is not a blem, I'd return it.
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#113
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I received my bought during their black Friday sale. All 3 I got had this common misaligned takedown holes. I was thinking this was a "blem" issue, but apparently it is not.
I guess I'll have to contact them to see what is up. I also will be awfully crossed if I have to pay return shipping. |
#115
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#116
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I bought one with on the black friday sale. Same with mine. There is a slight gap in between my upper and lower as well as the rear takedown pin was very tight. Also they need to spread out the hammer and trigger pins apart by .020/1000s to be milspec. I orginally had a problem with my hammer not disengaging the trigger and had to redrill the hammer hole closer to the mag release. After that everything was fine.
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#117
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#118
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My first lower was way out of spec. I put a jig on it after seeing my trigger would not fit correctly and their drill holes were way off.
With this one I snipped the guides and just used the jig to do everything else. Worked fine minus the rear take down issue. |
#120
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