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  #1  
Old 03-18-2017, 9:22 PM
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Default .223 reloads wont chamber

they all gauge in my lyman .223 gauge but wont chamber in 4 different barrels.
2x 5.56 voodoo barrel brand new never used
1x CMMG 5.56 with thousands of rounds fired
1x Adams arms (voodoo) 5.56 with a few hundred rounds

never had any issues until today
die is a RCBS small base .223
same issue with Lee .223 FL die
brass is all once fired LC

they will chamber with the force of the bolt/ spring but get stuck and need to be mortared to removed.

any idea/ advice?
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Old 03-18-2017, 9:37 PM
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Trim length?
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Old 03-18-2017, 9:39 PM
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1.750
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Old 03-18-2017, 9:40 PM
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I had the same problem. You MUST clean the chamber, not barrel. It fixed my issue. It could be a different problem, but maybe not.
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Old 03-18-2017, 9:50 PM
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i tried it in 2 brand new barrels not dirty or nothing its a sizing issue just dont know what.
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Old 03-18-2017, 9:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaJames83 View Post
1.750
Did you try chambering a piece of brass after re-sizing and trimming? That is standard procedure for me.
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Old 03-18-2017, 9:56 PM
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can you take a quality photo?

I am guessing too much crimp.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:00 PM
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I will do both in the morning.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:03 PM
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Those chamber gauges never work right. Sounds like sizing error to me. The sized brass is longer than the chamber. Use a headspace gauge comparator to measure the sized brass from shoulder to head. You can use a deprimed pistol case carefully to get the same results. You didn't size it right if it's longer than the fired brass.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/47...ith-comparator

Remove the bullet and powder and use a dry erase or permanent marker to paint the neck and shoulder area. Rechamber the case, extract it and see where it rubs. It's sized wrong if it rubs the shoulder.

Sometimes the sizing die come loose and backs out a little either in the lock ring or press. Or you switched the shell holder with a different brand. I found this out the hard way some years ago. 2 days ago my buddy had the same problem with his 308 load.

Use a headspace gauge and set your sizing die to .002" under it per head stamp and use a Hornady lock ring. Toss the RCBS set screw rings and the Lee rubber lined rings. they're useless.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilmonkey89 View Post
Did you try chambering a piece of brass after re-sizing and trimming? That is standard procedure for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
can you take a quality photo?

I am guessing too much crimp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by huckberry668 View Post
Those chamber gauges never work right. Sounds like sizing error to me. The sized brass is longer than the chamber. Use a headspace gauge comparator to measure the sized brass from shoulder to head. You can use a deprimed pistol case carefully to get the same results. You didn't size it right if it's longer than the fired brass.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/47...ith-comparator

Remove the bullet and powder and use a dry erase or permanent marker to paint the neck and shoulder area. Rechamber the case, extract it and see where it rubs. It's sized wrong if it rubs the shoulder.

Sometimes the sizing die come loose and backs out a little either in the lock ring or press. Or you switched the shell holder with a different brand. I found this out the hard way some years ago. 2 days ago my buddy had the same problem with his 308 load.

Use a headspace gauge and set your sizing die to .002" under it per head stamp and use a Hornady lock ring. Toss the RCBS set screw rings and the Lee rubber lined rings. they're useless.
Ill check everything again but I havent changed the shell plate (dillon 1050 with mark7 ) I will have to recheck everything tomorrow. This really sucks as they all passed the gauge
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:48 PM
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I use Dillon case guages. They work for me
.https://www.dillonprecision.com/dill...8_3_25547.html

Your brass isn't sized correctly.
Or your crimp is not set correct.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baih777 View Post
I use Dillon case guages. They work for me
.https://www.dillonprecision.com/dill...8_3_25547.html

Your brass isn't sized correctly.
Or your crimp is not set correct.
I may have to get dillon gauges funny because they gauge perfect in lyman gauges.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:15 AM
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Issue is setting up the die adjustment in the Press. Try resizing in a standard single stage press. That is my two-cents worth.
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Old 03-19-2017, 7:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaJames83 View Post
I may have to get dillon gauges funny because they gauge perfect in lyman gauges.
if they gauged ok then its your crimp.
you must have the bullet die adjusted to crimp . if you have to much crimp it will compress the case and create a slight bulge just below the shoulder.

measure your case. at the base, in the middle and just below the neck.

check your bullet die with one of your prepped brass. stick it in the bullet die and see if its hitting the brass with NO bullet.

case gauges wont catch this error. they only check the case headspace.
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Old 03-19-2017, 7:23 AM
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^^^ case gauges will catch a bulge. The case gauge has tighter specs than a chamber, normally if it fits the gauge, it should chamber.

Take a micrometer to your brass and check the specs vs the case diagram in your loading manual. If they check out, something is wrong with ur barrels.

If they dont, your die and case gauge are off.

Both scenarios are unlikely as you have cross checked stuff. Die to case gauge and crossed checked multiple barrels. This a certifed conundrum.
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  #16  
Old 03-19-2017, 7:38 AM
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Size in a single stage, over tighten the die to the shell holder. No need to crimp

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Old 03-19-2017, 8:04 AM
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Check your col,,, overall length.... A case guage just measures the case... Your barrel will tell you if you have seated the bullet deep enough... Sounds like your driving the bullet into the rifles lands.... Open up your AR and plunk test the reload,,, and compare it to a factory round to check the depth it drops in... Or slowly ride the bolt forward on a sharpie coated case and bullel... Cheers..
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2017, 10:22 AM
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Default .223 reloads wont chamber

Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaJames83 View Post
I may have to get dillon gauges funny because they gauge perfect in lyman gauges.


I have stuck to Dillon case gages or Le Wilson gages.

The Lyman 7.62x39 gage I have was bad from the factory. It won't even fit a factory bullet. Looks like someone broke a chamber reamer and kept running. No QC on their ****. Their stuff seems to be going down hill.

Stick with Dillon, Le Wilson, or Sheridan Engineering case gages.

https://www.dillonprecision.com/dill...8_3_25547.html


http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html

If you really want to see what is going on in the gage, get a slotted gage from here. Very cool.


http://www.sheridanengineering.com/index-2.htm



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Last edited by McGuiver; 03-19-2017 at 10:28 AM..
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2017, 2:50 PM
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I use the JP case gage, works perfect.
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Old 03-19-2017, 4:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGuiver View Post
I have stuck to Dillon case gages or Le Wilson gages.

The Lyman 7.62x39 gage I have was bad from the factory. It won't even fit a factory bullet. Looks like someone broke a chamber reamer and kept running. No QC on their ****. Their stuff seems to be going down hill.

Stick with Dillon, Le Wilson, or Sheridan Engineering case gages.

https://www.dillonprecision.com/dill...8_3_25547.html


http://www.lewilson.com/casegage.html

If you really want to see what is going on in the gage, get a slotted gage from here. Very cool.


http://www.sheridanengineering.com/index-2.htm



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
that slotted gauge is pretty cool. I havent had a chance to check everything and get some good pics but they are coming.
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  #21  
Old 03-19-2017, 4:16 PM
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Well, since OP case gauged it, the only conclusion is that 4 barrels are out of spec... i'll take them!

I would suspect that the brass are not "fully" sized, but the case gauge would of caught it...
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Old 03-19-2017, 6:36 PM
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Is this YOUR first loading of the once-fired brass? I've had the same problem - big time with a Tikka in .243 and a few that would not work in a Tikka .223.

The .243 is very fussy about once-fired brass and I think it has more to do with this particular rifle but it might also be the rifle that originally fired that brass. Factory new brass seems to chamber fine. One brand of remanufactured ammo did not (should have been a clue).

Try chambering other rounds in that lot that are still unloaded. I had to do that with a couple hundred cases to get some that I could use. The rest are listed for sale (any takers?).
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Old 03-20-2017, 9:10 AM
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Are you using a different profile bullet? You may be jamming your cartridge into the lands? Adjust your overall length, sounds like that's your problem.
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Old 03-22-2017, 9:26 AM
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It turns out there was nothing wrong with the .243 brass or my rifle. My problem was entirely my fault for not setting up the FL resizing die correctly so that the shoulder got bumped back a bit. You might try checking your die setup.
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Old 03-22-2017, 9:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwalker View Post
I use the JP case gage, works perfect.
This. Other case gauges aren't as tight as the JP case gauge as it is for a .223 wylde chamber. Is the chamber a 5.56, .223 or .223 wylde?
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Old 03-22-2017, 9:47 AM
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sounds like your bullets aren't seated deep enough maybe they have a strange ogive compared to fmjbt
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Old 03-22-2017, 10:12 AM
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The best chamber gauge is one cut with the same reamer as your barrel and your dies. Using a store bought gauge will probably put your ammo within sammi spec but that doesn't mean your chamber isn't cut to the small side of sammi specs while your ammo is on the larger side.

Do you know how far your bullets are set back from the lands? What kinds of throats are cut in your barrels?
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Old 03-22-2017, 5:29 PM
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Check for high primers also. Ran across this a while back with a 30/30 round that got by me. Just a thought!
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Old 03-22-2017, 5:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Toast View Post
I had the same problem. You MUST clean the chamber, not barrel. It fixed my issue. It could be a different problem, but maybe not.
I have heard of doing this on a new barrel as well to correct this problem.

My son just bought a new upper in 5.56 from Radical Firearms and he is having a problem with chambering Lake City factory ammo. Other ammo works fine.

Have Lake City cases changed?
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Old 03-23-2017, 7:19 PM
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hmmm, measured everything with calipers and its within specs or smaller. OAL is 2.23
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Old 03-23-2017, 7:28 PM
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I used to have that problem. One out of 10 or 20 wouldnt allow the bolt to go into battery. If I couldnt fire it out, I would have to call on the power of Greyskull to summon the strength to remove them. I couldnt bump the shoulder back enough with a Lee Load master and RCBS Small Base die. It came down to modifying the die, shell plate, or just get a different press. It was one of many issues with the press, so I replaced it with a 650.
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Old 03-23-2017, 9:58 PM
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Hmmm. Maybe I'll go back to the dillon die and see if it keeps up.
So far the rcbs sb die and lee die are doing this
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:05 PM
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Screw the die down more and your shell holder as well on the 550.

My wife thinks I only have 3 guns
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:44 PM
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Had/Have the same problem right now. Ran about 5k rounds of .223 through the 650. Used an RCBS sb die. Brought it down as far as it could go. The shoulder did not get bumped back far enough. I ended resizing a portion of them with a hornady fl die. That was the only one the would bump the shoulders back into spec. The RCBS die should have done the trick in the first place. It failed me. I even went up to RCBS (Oroville) to have a chat with the horses mouth. They just ended up giving me another sb die to try. Still not enough. The only thing I can think of is that my shell plate bolt wasn't snugged down far enough allowing my shell plate to flex just enough during the full stroke to size the case but not bump the shoulder.

I found that the hornady .223 fl die would bump the shoulder back enough to run in my guns. I resized some loaded cartridges to see if I could bump the shoulders without pulling them apart. DISCLAIMER...DO NOT RESIZE A LOADED CARTRIDGE!! I slimed a few up and ran them through one at a time. It was 90% successful. The other 10% muffintopped their shoulders and became completely useless.

And yes......I did say 5k. And yes...I'm not proud of that little mistake!!
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Old 03-24-2017, 4:19 AM
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Quote:
And yes......I did say 5k. And yes...I'm not proud of that little mistake!!
Not making fun of your mistake but *I* feel a little less stupid for doing something similarly foolish.
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Old 03-24-2017, 7:59 AM
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shell holder wont go down any more and still move (rotate).
Die is down as far as it can go as well.
I really thoguht the SB RCBS die was nice but looks like its outta here.
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Old 03-24-2017, 8:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaJames83 View Post
Hmmm. Maybe I'll go back to the dillon die and see if it keeps up.
So far the rcbs sb die and lee die are doing this

I doubt the brand of the die be it RCBS or Lee is causing the issue.

It's how you are adjusting the die for the full length sizing process.

I use a cartridge headspace gauge and that let's me know exactly how much I sized the fired brass.

FWIW, I use an RCBS full length die from 1972 and an RCBS small base die from 1977.
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Old 03-24-2017, 8:25 AM
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I had a 22-250AI with a tight chamber. I ground down the shell holder to get the brass to chamber. Like I said before, crank down your size die.

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Old 03-24-2017, 8:32 AM
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Give your die another 1/4 to a 1/2 turn after it touches the shell plate

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Old 03-24-2017, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Give your die another 1/4 to a 1/2 turn after it touches the shell plate
That's what I *failed* to do and it's why once-fired .243 brass wouldn't chamber even after sizing (see above). Seems like a small thing. Makes a big difference.
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