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  #1  
Old 07-16-2013, 1:58 PM
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Default M1 Garand Op Rod Spring.

Hey guys,
I got my Orion 7 op rod spring yesterday. I understand that it is going to help my little slice of heaven live longer I have no idea how to change it though, and the old youtube did not turn up any instructions.

Has anyone done this?

Do I need any special tools?
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2013, 2:19 PM
Sailormilan2 Sailormilan2 is offline
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Relatively easy to do. Remove the triggerguard, and remove barreled action from the stock. With the rifle upside down, you will see the follower rod that has the op rod spring on one end, with the spring going into the op rod.
Grasp the follower rod in one hand and pull away from the action while holding the action in the other hand. It will slide forward a bit then come from from the follower arm. Once clear, pull the other way and the spring will come out of the op rod.
Pull spring off follower rod, then install new spring on follower rod. Prior to inserting spring into the op rod tube, I put some grease on my hand(I used axle grease) and run spring through my hand, coating the spring with a thin layer of grease.
Installation is now the reverse. However, when trying to reinstall the follower rod onto the follower arm, I've found it a bit easier to move the follower up and down in the mag well, which helps to allign the hooks on the follower rod with the pins on the follower arm.
It shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to do. Though, with a grease covered hand, sometimes getting the new spring in place is a handfull.

Last edited by Sailormilan2; 07-16-2013 at 2:24 PM..
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  #3  
Old 07-16-2013, 2:33 PM
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http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/fieldstrip.html
http://www.civilianmarksmanship.com/...tripfeed2.html






http://surplusrifle.com/garand/rifle...mbly/index.asp
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  #4  
Old 07-16-2013, 2:52 PM
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Thanks Milsurp, now I can order one for my CMP Garand.
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Old 07-16-2013, 3:48 PM
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Everybody should swap this out when they first get their Garand and strip, clean and lube it...
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  #6  
Old 07-16-2013, 4:52 PM
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I respectfully disagree. Although I have installed Orion-7 on a few of my Garands that needed it, I believe in the "If it ain't broke don't fix it". If you are not having cycling issues but feel must buy a new spring, then buy one and keep it in your parts box and keep the USGI spring continue to do its magic.
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Old 07-16-2013, 5:30 PM
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The only thing with springs i have dealt with; ive had 4 cmp garands. 1 had a broken op rod spring- rusty and in pieces. Replaced it with NOS gI spring and never had an issue after. So if you replace the spring make sure all the spring is out of the rod. If there is a broken piece you will have more problems.
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Old 07-16-2013, 6:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pro-nra View Post
I respectfully disagree. Although I have installed Orion-7 on a few of my Garands that needed it, I believe in the "If it ain't broke don't fix it". If you are not having cycling issues but feel must buy a new spring, then buy one and keep it in your parts box and keep the USGI spring continue to do its magic.
It's not like they sprinkled special USGI pixie dust on them. Springs are disposable. Dispose of them.
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Old 07-16-2013, 9:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eljay View Post
It's not like they sprinkled special USGI pixie dust on them. Springs are disposable. Dispose of them.
No pixie dust that I know of. I revert back to my original post, "If it ain't broke don't fix it" and if its broke then absolutely replace it with Orion-7 springs. Just because something is disposable (everything on the Garand except the receiver are disposable) don't mean you dispose of them just because. If you like replacing parts just because then come on over my house and I will hand you a few tired and worn Garands and you can replace all the disposable parts. All I'm saying is if its still working good why replace it?

Orion-7 spring are the best spring out there IMO and it is on 6 of my Garands but they needed it. The rest of my Garands have original USGI springs.
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2013, 6:11 AM
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Is it true that the superior spring will help to extend the guns life though? I am just wanting to make sure I get many years out of my Garand.
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  #11  
Old 07-17-2013, 6:32 AM
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Yes. Remember, on the Garand, the bolt bounces off the rear of the receiver. So, with new springs, or springs that are in spec, there is less force transferred to the receiver heel and less chance of it cracking over time.
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Old 07-17-2013, 7:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailormilan2 View Post
or springs that are in spec
That is the key right there. If it makes you feel better to change the spring just because although your USGI spring is still serviceable and within spec then go ahead as it is your rifle. I have one lead dipped receiver WWII WRA with the original flat spring with I don't know how many thousand rounds it fired during the war and I added over 20K rounds over the years and the spring is still serviceable and no cracked receiver heel.
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Old 07-18-2013, 4:06 AM
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Very first thing I do is replace the op rod spring on every Garnd I aquire.
Spec call for them tobe 20 -19 1/4 inches long and free of bends or kninks.
While many of them didfall within proper length they did have bends.
The op rod spring also cushions the bolt from slamming into the reciver heel,IMO its cheap good insurance for your rifle.

To the OP, sounds like you havent ever had your rifle apart. You should do a complete tear down /clean and properly GREASE your Garand
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Old 07-18-2013, 5:11 AM
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Old 07-18-2013, 1:28 PM
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Also a good idea to lightly apply grease to the inside of stock ferrule in case the Op Rod rubs there and also on the bottm of the barrel where the Op Rod saddle rubs
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Old 07-18-2013, 3:34 PM
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Whether you replace an op rod spring or not, they should at least be inspected. When I tore apart my naked Dane years ago, the op rod spring came out in six pieces.
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Old 07-18-2013, 7:23 PM
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I just ordered my Orion 7 spring. My M1 is having cycling issues. It seems the bolt is cycling too fast to chamber a round.
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Old 07-18-2013, 8:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlyme View Post
I just ordered my Orion 7 spring. My M1 is having cycling issues. It seems the bolt is cycling too fast to chamber a round.
I doubt that is the case. I bet it is short cycling which is the opposite of what you described.
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Old 07-19-2013, 1:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pro-nra View Post
I doubt that is the case. I bet it is short cycling which is the opposite of what you described.
I agree, probably is short stroking.
Anew spring may fix your issue though as its all about timing. Again I cannot stress enough:
Clean rifle to smallest part!
Properly Grease!
New Op Rod Spring!
These things will usualy fix 90 % of cycling problems
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Old 07-19-2013, 9:08 AM
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Hey guys, I was successful in replacing the Op rod spring. The neck of the spring broke off on the follower rod upon extraction. However the GI spring was still in spec so I kept it as an emergency spare. I greased it thoroughly and had lots of fun with greasy fingers getting the follower back on. I got lucky on the 2nd or third try, first one about took the tip of my finger off. That's the second digit this gun has squashed and it only makes me love her more. Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it. I am gonna take her out again this weekend at some point. I measured my best group from last weekend and was extremely pleasantly surprised to see that it was 1 3/4 inches at or around 85-100 yards.

Other question....Should I use the schuster with the M2 ball in hopes of possibly further extending her life or just stick with GI plug??
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pmoore87 View Post
I measured my best group from last weekend and was extremely pleasantly surprised to see that it was 1 3/4 inches at or around 85-100 yards.

Other question....Should I use the schuster with the M2 ball in hopes of possibly further extending her life or just stick with GI plug??
If you can get 8 rd groups that tight you will clean up in matches

Some guys use the schuster with the M2 ball but it sint needed
I have experimented with them and M2Ball hoping to find the sweet spot to reduce group size but I havent found it makes any difference. Some say it does but I havent been able to duplicate their results
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Old 07-20-2013, 9:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orlando View Post
If you can get 8 rd groups that tight you will clean up in matches

Some guys use the schuster with the M2 ball but it sint needed
I have experimented with them and M2Ball hoping to find the sweet spot to reduce group size but I havent found it makes any difference. Some say it does but I havent been able to duplicate their results
Well that is awesome news My dad always called me dead eye. My very best group ever was a peep sight on a rented lever action at 100 yds I had two touching in the red. I went out and did some more Garand shooting today but I had some malfunctions and problems. I am gonna start a thread and see what I need to do to fix them. I have not taken every part of the rifle apart yet because I read its not good to take them apart more often that needed. However if I am gonna shoot match I need to know my rifle inside and out.

It popped out several enblocs before empty, the trigger group popped out (think this was the metal end of the sling getting caught), and the bolt was pretty sticky when I set the Schuster. Also the HXP seemed a lot hotter than the T W 69. My guess is I can attribute a lot of it to dirty, and old cosmolene leaking from the wood. I am gonna start it now ans see what the community says. Shot well, however I was taking out cans and things instead of targets today.
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Old 07-21-2013, 5:43 AM
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What kind of wood do you have? Birch or walnut? Easiest way to clean an old stock is to strip it of most of the metal, handguards excepted, and stick it into a dishwasher. However, this will strip all of the old cosmoline and finish off, as well as remove most of the dents. Some people do not like this method, claiming it is too harsh on the wood.
Or get some CitriSTripper or Purple Power at Home Depot and strip the wood. Once the wood is clean, refinish with Raw Linseed Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil, or Tung Oil. The Linseed oils will gradually change color to that reddish brown color of old USGI stocks. RLO will do it faster than BLO. Tung Oil doesn't change color but is a bit better in the water repelant department.
My method is to rub in 1 - 2 cots of RLO, then several coats of BLO. It change color on its own.
With walnut, you can add a step of using wood bleach. Crystaline Oxalic acid, it cleans the stock more and highlights the grain.
Here is one of my Garands, with a USGI stock that was cleaned and finished that way. Pics are taken 4 years apart. Stock was finished in BLO only.




Last edited by Sailormilan2; 07-21-2013 at 5:51 AM..
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Old 07-21-2013, 1:00 PM
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That looks very nice. I am not sure on the type of wood. Does the sun method work well on Garands? I have done that on my Mosin and it worked fairly well, still leaks some out when she gets shot on a hot day.

I almost don't wanna do anything to the stock though, because I think it is the original one.
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