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  #281  
Old 07-11-2013, 7:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SKSer45 View Post
Blah look at those Ugly Rifles. Those Russian letters really mess up the Serial Numbers hu?? Id say -$50 for every letter I see on those SKS heheh
I'd say more funny the way those swinging there grenade launcher
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  #282  
Old 07-12-2013, 6:31 AM
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Got mine disassembled last night. Boy those things are NASTY. lol I've got all the parts separated in large zip loc bags waiting on mineral spirits. In the process of removing things the small broken piece on the stock came off (it was barely being held on by cosmoline). Gonna sweat the stock then gorilla glue that piece back on.

One thing I did notice is the gas tube is also matching number electro penciled. Everything else is still too nasty to check for numbers. But since my top plate is non-matching this will never be a "all numbers match" gun anyway.

It was so hot out in my garage (been a steady 100+ around here for weeks) that I forgot to look down the bore to see what kind of condition it is in.

Anyway, gonna get all the metal cleaned up Saturday and also sweat the stock.

As far as using the "howards feed and wax" do u guys do anything to the original stocks (other than sweating out the cosmoline) before applying howards?? The Shelac (I think that's what it is) appears to be patchy in areas. Does the "howards" just go through the shelac when applying or should it somehow be removed before applying howards??

My stock is far from being pristine and other than trying to fix a dent with steam and using a bit of glue on a couple busted spots, there are a couple small rough spots that will need a bit of sanding to prevent splinters.
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  #283  
Old 07-12-2013, 7:16 AM
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I'm no expert at treating stocks so take my advice with a grain of salt...

That said, in my experience neither oil or Howard's will penetrate the shellac. Howard's adds a surface protectant and gives a little treatment to the bare (areas where the shellac is gone) wood, but it's not as good as oiling for really treating dry wood by itself.

Denatured alcohol will remove shellac, but I've found that it is difficult to get it all off with this method. Sometimes that old shellac can be stubborn.

What I would do is after sweating the Cosmo wipe it down with mineral spirits to remove the thin layer of surface Cosmo left on it, then wipe with denatured alcohol to remove as many of the old shellac patches as possible. I would then oil it and then apply Howard's. however, if the shellac coat is mostly intact and doesn't look too tatty you might want to leave it so in that case I'd just wipe the Cosmo and give it some Howard's.

When trying to remove the shellac you want to be careful not to rub it down too vigorously. It's a fine line you walk when removing stock coatings...go too far and you are in refinishing territory. Hopefully some of the wood magicians will be along to share their methods in more detail.
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  #284  
Old 07-12-2013, 7:48 AM
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I am comparable to Simple Jack when it comes to wood refinishing. However I have sort of self taught myself what seems to work. The Sino-Soviet I just received has patchy shellac with a lovely wood grain pattern peeking out from underneath. However, I prefer the battle worn look on this old war dog as is because I have other supermodels to play pretty dress up with as needed.

I just wiped all the excess globs of cosmo off with a rag. Then I sweated it in a trash bag outside, until it started to RAIN IN JULY!! I finished off the sweating inside with a hair dryer. Once satisfied that the cosmo was out, I applied a generous helping of Howard's and let it sit for a while before wiping it off. Dunzo!

There are other options for rehabbing dry stocks, as Bruin mentions above. For me, I like Howard's. I had a different C&R Chicom that had a very dry stock. A few applications of Howard's left a permanent smooth and semi-shiny finish on the wood that looked great.
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  #285  
Old 07-12-2013, 8:05 AM
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Originally Posted by peppermintman View Post
I'd say more funny the way those swinging there grenade launcher

Yeah those Panzerfaust are bad arse hu? Ironically that's when our beloved SKS' were born in WW2

I must admit, seeing these Sino-Soviets come into the market like this at Sub 350ish is pretty nice. If only Classics and other FFls knew what they really had.
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  #286  
Old 07-12-2013, 8:10 AM
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Yeah those Panzerfaust are bad arse hu? Ironically that's when our beloved SKS' were born in WW2

I must admit, seeing these Sino-Soviets come into the market like this at Sub 350ish is pretty nice. If only Classics and other FFls knew what they really had.
I was half inclined to take the 'refund' option on the Classic SKS I sent back. But the second one I received was so jam packed with WIN that I decided to leave my chips on the table and go all in for the hope of a second good one to get turned over on the river.
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  #287  
Old 07-12-2013, 9:07 AM
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Originally Posted by SKSer45 View Post
Blah look at those Ugly Rifles. Those Russian letters really mess up the Serial Numbers hu?? Id say -$50 for every letter I see on those SKS heheh
Panzerfäuster Hoch!!

Ich lache mich tot !!
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  #288  
Old 07-12-2013, 9:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Ricigliano View Post
I was half inclined to take the 'refund' option on the Classic SKS I sent back. But the second one I received was so jam packed with WIN that I decided to leave my chips on the table and go all in for the hope of a second good one to get turned over on the river.
The way you scored on #2 I would go all in for sure. I am contemplating calling classic and seeing if they will apply my first handpick fee to a second since I got a stock with cracks. There are some great SKS's that have come out. Maybe I can get a Metallica one
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  #289  
Old 07-12-2013, 9:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Ricigliano View Post
I was half inclined to take the 'refund' option on the Classic SKS I sent back. But the second one I received was so jam packed with WIN that I decided to leave my chips on the table and go all in for the hope of a second good one to get turned over on the river.
Yes it is BB. Sino-soviet win mean that rifle is easily $450 ish and it's all matching too. And you paid what $350? not bad at all BB. It's in really good shape and by the photos its certainly an ideal sino-soviet. You did good. Now East German and N.Korean await you!
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  #290  
Old 07-12-2013, 9:33 AM
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Geez I hate trench art. For all we know that stuff was carved by some REMF who got bored at headquarters...
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  #291  
Old 07-12-2013, 9:49 AM
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Trying to decide if I want to grab one of these or add a k11 to my Swiss collection
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  #292  
Old 07-12-2013, 10:56 AM
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What sort of question is that? K11 all day long!
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  #293  
Old 07-12-2013, 11:55 AM
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Couple more ???s for u guys.

1. When classic say's $20 for "numbers matching" does that mean they disassemble it, clean it and check all the parts? Or does it just mean the 4-5 external spots for #s are checked??

2. I've had my C&R for years but this is the first firearm I've used it for (I know shame on me). But I was wondering what the rules are for selling a C&R from my collection to someone out of state (not shipping it, handing it to them). Do they have to have C&R or does it just fall upon whatever State we are in? Or is it not allowed at all because of the Intra-state fed laws? Wondering if since it is C&R those rules don't apply??

EDIT: found the answer to my 2nd question here: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=487254 Looks like if buyer is non-licensed they have to come to me or go through a local 01 dealer.
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Last edited by hotwls13; 07-12-2013 at 12:34 PM..
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  #294  
Old 07-12-2013, 5:08 PM
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My latest one showed up today. Gave it a quick external cleaning so I could snap some pictures. It's a 5 digit Chinese with all matching numbers and no factory code. The stock is in fantastic condition, no cracks or splits & not all dried up like those from CAI. There is still plenty of cosmoline in there but the stock still has a shellac shine to it. It's even stamped matching to the rest of the rifle!!








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  #295  
Old 07-12-2013, 5:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Lurch762 View Post
My latest one showed up today. Gave it a quick external cleaning so I could snap some pictures. It's a 5 digit Chinese with all matching numbers and no factory code. The stock is in fantastic condition, no cracks or splits & not all dried up like those from CAI. There is still plenty of cosmoline in there but the stock still has a shellac shine to it. It's even stamped matching to the rest of the rifle!!
Lurch, you have hit one out of the park. She is a beauty. This is a rifle you can add to your collection with pride. I am guessing based experience that it will be a fantastic shooter too.
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  #296  
Old 07-12-2013, 5:50 PM
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What a score!!!
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  #297  
Old 07-12-2013, 6:28 PM
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Thanks! The metal parts look comparable to the CAI imports I have, but the stock was the biggest surprise. The CAI ones are almost black and so dried out while this one look great.
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  #298  
Old 07-12-2013, 6:46 PM
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Thanks! The metal parts look comparable to the CAI imports I have, but the stock was the biggest surprise. The CAI ones are almost black and so dried out while this one look great.
For a quick cosmo wipe down it looks very very good. Did you spend the extra $20 for a handpicked one. They're getting ti the good ones now I think. Maybe the cracked ones are gone now. Mine won't be in Cali until next Friday. I hope to take some picks too.
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  #299  
Old 07-13-2013, 12:02 PM
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Default Spring thing bolt coversion

Friend at work told me there's a spring thing conversion to keep the firing pin back always until the hammer hits its it. Whats this coversion kit he talking about?
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  #300  
Old 07-13-2013, 12:07 PM
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Whats this coversion kit he talking about?
It's called a pre-51 Russian! Haha
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  #301  
Old 07-13-2013, 12:36 PM
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Friend at work told me there's a spring thing conversion to keep the firing pin back always until the hammer hits its it. Whats this coversion kit he talking about?
He's talking about Murray's firing pin.
http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm
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  #302  
Old 07-13-2013, 1:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Lurch762 View Post
My latest one showed up today. Gave it a quick external cleaning so I could snap some pictures. It's a 5 digit Chinese with all matching numbers and no factory code. The stock is in fantastic condition, no cracks or splits & not all dried up like those from CAI. There is still plenty of cosmoline in there but the stock still has a shellac shine to it. It's even stamped matching to the rest of the rifle!!








Yeah nice one lurch! Very pretty!!!
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  #303  
Old 07-13-2013, 2:22 PM
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^Hey Lurch......was yours handpicked using both options? I'd be very happy if they sent me one like that.
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  #304  
Old 07-13-2013, 2:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mievil View Post
It's called a pre-51 Russian! Haha
Ok .......Russian - Chinese almost same thing right? Chinese has same bolt so is this kit a good idea?

Forgot so ill ask this question too. I see a beautiful stock on Lurchs SKS so here I go......is the original Chinese stock supposed to be what color??? Just asking

Last edited by peppermintman; 07-13-2013 at 3:00 PM..
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  #305  
Old 07-13-2013, 4:11 PM
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^Hey Lurch......was yours handpicked using both options? I'd be very happy if they sent me one like that.
This was ordered with the handpick option. When I ordered it, the matching option wasn't available.

Quote:
Originally Posted by peppermintman View Post
Ok .......Russian - Chinese almost same thing right? Chinese has same bolt so is this kit a good idea?

Forgot so ill ask this question too. I see a beautiful stock on Lurchs SKS so here I go......is the original Chinese stock supposed to be what color??? Just asking
The one Murray is selling is designed to retrofit into all bolts regardless of country.
As for the stock that came on my SKS, the finish definitely does look like Russian red shellac. I found a /21\ stamp on it but also what looks like a Tula hammer proof so I'm not sure what kind of finish is supposed to be on it.
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  #306  
Old 07-13-2013, 4:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peppermintman View Post
Ok .......Russian - Chinese almost same thing right? Chinese has same bolt so is this kit a good idea?

Forgot so ill ask this question too. I see a beautiful stock on Lurchs SKS so here I go......is the original Chinese stock supposed to be what color??? Just asking
Russians used the spring until 1951 then dropped it on their newer sks's.

see this:

http://www.yooperj.com/SKS-12.htm

I guess they also realized that if the firing pin channel is kept clean and the pin moves freely there are no slam fires. Chinese sks came 1956 and never adopted the spring.
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  #307  
Old 07-13-2013, 5:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan_Eastvale View Post
Russians used the spring until 1951 then dropped it on their newer sks's.

see this:

http://www.yooperj.com/SKS-12.htm

I guess they also realized that if the firing pin channel is kept clean and the pin moves freely there are no slam fires. Chinese sks came 1956 and never adopted the spring.
I put a Murray's spring firing pin into my Norinco later model SKS when a defective round caused a pierced primer and bent the firing pin, and it works great.all of my others have the standard free floaters and I've never had a slam fire. Just keep em clean! I'll never hesitate to buy from Murray's again though.
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  #308  
Old 07-13-2013, 6:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Ricigliano View Post
I put a Murray's spring firing pin into my Norinco later model SKS when a defective round caused a pierced primer and bent the firing pin, and it works great.all of my others have the standard free floaters and I've never had a slam fire. Just keep em clean! I'll never hesitate to buy from Murray's again though.
If the primer was pierced how'd the firing pin get bent? Is the slam fire caused by milsurp ammo maybe? My AR has a floating type firing pin and never never even heard of a slam fire but on the SKS it's a concern I hear. Good to get Murry's link so I bookmarked it just in case.
I've heard of brass case 7.62x39 primers getting pierced buy never steel case.

My order is in the waiting to be packed mode. Classic Arms must be very busy.
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  #309  
Old 07-13-2013, 6:13 PM
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Originally Posted by peppermintman View Post
If the primer was pierced how'd the firing pin get bent? Is the slam fire caused by milsurp ammo maybe? My AR has a floating type firing pin and never never even heard of a slam fire but on the SKS it's a concern I hear. Good to get Murry's link so I bookmarked it just in case.
I've heard of brass case 7.62x39 primers getting pierced buy never steel case.

My order is in the waiting to be packed mode. Classic Arms must be very busy.
I wrote a thread about it. Here you ago:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=584775

Just to add, I did send that bolt assembly to Murray's and he had me up and running in about a week. I still have that SKS, as it was my first, and it shoots like a champ! I didn't realize it at the time but I guess late model Chinese sporter SKS manufactured specifically for the import market usually didn't have blade bayonets, but this one did, with matching blade cut stock too.


Most of them seemed to be spikes, like this one:

Last edited by Bobby Ricigliano; 07-13-2013 at 6:38 PM..
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  #310  
Old 07-13-2013, 6:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Ricigliano View Post
I wrote a thread about it. Here you ago:

Just to add, I did send that bolt assembly to Murray's and he had me up and running in about a week. I still have that SKS, as it was my first, and it shoots like a champ! I didn't realize it at the time but I guess late model Chinese sporter SKS manufactured specifically for the import market usually didn't have blade bayonets, but this one did, with matching blade cut stock too.
You probably have a rare commercial Norinco there I believe. Back in the 1980's into the late 1990's I was an 01 FFL. Those Norincos were about $80 wholesale and I NEVER saw one with a blade bayonet, all I ever saw advertised or sold had the spike bayonet. That was back in the days when you couldn't wait for your copy of Shotgun News to arrive to see what you just "needed" to buy.
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  #311  
Old 07-13-2013, 6:56 PM
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You probably have a rare commercial Norinco there I believe. Back in the 1980's into the late 1990's I was an 01 FFL. Those Norincos were about $80 wholesale and I NEVER saw one with a blade bayonet, all I ever saw advertised or sold had the spike bayonet. That was back in the days when you couldn't wait for your copy of Shotgun News to arrive to see what you just "needed" to buy.
Thanks AG. I actually got it still in the cardboard box with the rifle serial # stamped on the box and all the accessories (oil bottle, stripper clips, sling) all packed in the little styrofoam compartments.
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  #312  
Old 07-13-2013, 7:02 PM
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Thanks AG. I actually got it still in the cardboard box with the rifle serial # stamped on the box and all the accessories (oil bottle, stripper clips, sling) all packed in the little styrofoam compartments.
If I remember correctly that styrofoam wasn't too high of quality it seemed to degrade and start shedding after awhile, at least mine did.
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  #313  
Old 07-13-2013, 7:15 PM
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If I remember correctly that styrofoam wasn't too high of quality it seemed to degrade and start shedding after awhile, at least mine did.
I don't doubt that. Mine is still all intact though.
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  #314  
Old 07-13-2013, 7:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Bobby Ricigliano View Post
I wrote a thread about it. Here you ago:

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=584775

Just to add, I did send that bolt assembly to Murray's and he had me up and running in about a week. I still have that SKS, as it was my first, and it shoots like a champ! I didn't realize it at the time but I guess late model Chinese sporter SKS manufactured specifically for the import market usually didn't have blade bayonets, but this one did, with matching blade cut stock too.


Most of them seemed to be spikes, like this one:
After reading the link I found this one

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3QtnUWCwQ

It's the ammo that caused that stuff. Nice to buy that inexpensive stuff but after watching the video I think I'll not use the milsurp stuff with berdan primer. I ain't gonna try figure this one out but seeing and hearing Murry is believing. Nice link and good to know how be careful Bobby.
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  #315  
Old 07-13-2013, 8:07 PM
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Always good to function test all parts of your SKS to make sure it will work as designed
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Originally Posted by ar15barrels
Unscrew the lid. There is a foil seal there.
Pull the seal off and screw the lid back on.
Then you can squeeze the mustard and it will come out of the bottle..

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  #316  
Old 07-13-2013, 8:19 PM
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Wolf, Tula, Golden Tiger, Herters, all perfectly safe and reliable in any SKS rifle. The price of brass 7.62x39 makes this stuff really the only choice unless you can find some Yugo surplus.
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  #317  
Old 07-14-2013, 8:29 AM
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Got the Cosmo sweated out yesterday. Spent all day going out and wiping off the Cosmo every 30 minutes.

Then last night I got the broken pieces gorilla glued back on. The steaming and trying to get that dent out didn't work.

I'm thinking a razorblade will be the easiest way to carefully trim off the excess glue? Then is some sandpaper to finish off the repair area. I know sandpaper is scary for these Russian stocks but this is a repair area.
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:34 PM
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peppermintman peppermintman is offline
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Originally Posted by hotwls13 View Post
Got the Cosmo sweated out yesterday. Spent all day going out and wiping off the Cosmo every 30 minutes.

Then last night I got the broken pieces gorilla glued back on. The steaming and trying to get that dent out didn't work.

I'm thinking a razorblade will be the easiest way to carefully trim off the excess glue? Then is some sandpaper to finish off the repair area. I know sandpaper is scary for these Russian stocks but this is a repair area.
Get a Zactoblade and do it the blade point tiny. Sandpaper will take off lots of finish so use the blade tip carefully
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Old 07-14-2013, 2:22 PM
hotwls13 hotwls13 is offline
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Had to use both. It came out pretty good. The gorilla glue dried to a yellowy color though so I'm not sure what I'm gonna do about that. I'm thinking either some wood putty or instead some kind of red stain to darken it to match.

Who would think such a simple fix would be such a pain.


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Old 07-14-2013, 3:29 PM
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Had to use both. It came out pretty good. The gorilla glue dried to a yellowy color though so I'm not sure what I'm gonna do about that. I'm thinking either some wood putty or instead some kind of red stain to darken it to match.

Who would think such a simple fix would be such a pain.


Most likely you'll be the only one that really notices it, because you already know it's there. I don't use Gorrilla glue so I don't know if it will even take stain. My Sino-Albainian stock has small gouge in the finish which really can't be fixed easily. No one else notices it BUT it bugs me cuz I know it's there!
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