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Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more If it locks up, carries, fits on to or cleans up your firearms, discuss it here.

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  #1  
Old 06-11-2013, 9:44 AM
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Default Winchester safe with electronic lock failed

Anyone opened one that was still locked? I called the 800 number and they pretty much told me to call a locksmith and pay more than the safe cost.

The next safe will have a dial only.
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Old 06-11-2013, 9:46 AM
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I assume you changed the batteries?
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Old 06-11-2013, 9:53 AM
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Yikes. I would recommend a good locksmith instead of a DIY solution. The locksmith might be able to take out the lock and open the safe with their magic, and they can also upgrade/replace the failed electronic lock with another.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:06 AM
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If yo have your serial number, call the manufacturer. Some of those electronic key pads have a back door code that the manufacture can supply. If its an issue of something is not working mechanically, then ya, its going to take a locksmith.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:37 AM
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:45 AM
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:48 AM
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Have you owned this safe for a while, with a working code and it just recently failed to open? Or did you just get it and are unable to open?
If you punched in the code wrong repeatedly then it might have disabled for a set period of time. For example if you punched in the wrong code a few times you might have to wait a few hours before trying again.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:51 AM
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What is it doing? Is it buzzing or accepting at all? What kind of locks does winchester put on their safes (i.e. is this a SargentGreenleaf?)?
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:57 AM
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Did the safe come with a back-up mechanical key?

Some locks allow you to remove the dial pad (as if to change the battery) and there is a keyhole centered between the dial pad mounts...
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:05 PM
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No key it's only electronic. I've had it for about four years and this is the first time it failed.
I've tried a new battery and let it sit.
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:18 PM
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If you know someone with the same safe, maybe try a keypad swap.

According to the experts on calguns it should only take you 4 minutes with a screwdriver and a hammer to open it.
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Old 06-11-2013, 1:44 PM
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FWIW, S&G has a recall on one of their combination locks. If you call the manufacturer, they will put you in touch with S&G and get you a new lock.
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Old 06-11-2013, 1:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Intimid8tor View Post
According to the experts on calguns it should only take you 4 minutes with a screwdriver and a hammer to open it.
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2013, 9:04 PM
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Just switched out the electronic touchpad out to a dial today. Dial was free, service call was $175, will NEVER go back.
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  #15  
Old 06-16-2013, 1:35 AM
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OP, did you get into your safe?
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  #16  
Old 06-20-2013, 12:25 PM
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OP, did you get into your safe?
Nope, the safe is at my place in Nevada and I'm not there all the time. I guess I'll be be bringing some new drill bits the next time I go up.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:31 PM
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I've got a couple pounds of FFFg and some fuse you can borrow.
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  #18  
Old 06-20-2013, 12:32 PM
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Did you buy your safe from Costco? If so... contact costco Customer service...
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  #19  
Old 06-20-2013, 7:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSACANNONEER View Post
I've got a couple pounds of FFFg and some fuse you can borrow.
I've got the same stuff.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tuolumnejim View Post
Nope, the safe is at my place in Nevada and I'm not there all the time. I guess I'll be be bringing some new drill bits the next time I go up.
It would be awesome to try that thing Robert Dinero did in that movie where he drilled a hole on the top of the safe, filled it with water to the top and dropped a cherry bomb into it and the excess pressure blew the door open.

I would love to try that experiment irl .
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  #21  
Old 06-21-2013, 9:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dattebayo View Post
It would be awesome to try that thing Robert Dinero did in that movie where he drilled a hole on the top of the safe, filled it with water to the top and dropped a cherry bomb into it and the excess pressure blew the door open.

I would love to try that experiment irl .
they did that on mythbusters. if i remember right, it took alot more than a cherry bomb
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:32 AM
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This happened to me. Its electronic, no backup key.

Called for service, ended up costing more than half the safe. So i bought a hole saw and drill through it, used a snake inspection camera to locate the reset switch. Followed the manufacture steps (press for 3 seconds, press keypad, blah blah)

Finally got it out, it was hard bc it was a one man operation so i had to find button, press button, press key code all by myself.
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Old 06-22-2013, 7:25 PM
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Uhhh man. You guys are scaring the crap out of me here.

I just spend $2k on a Liberty safe with an electronic lock and no key backup.

Damn.
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  #24  
Old 06-23-2013, 7:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedsteel View Post
This happened to me. Its electronic, no backup key.

Called for service, ended up costing more than half the safe. So i bought a hole saw and drill through it, used a snake inspection camera to locate the reset switch. Followed the manufacture steps (press for 3 seconds, press keypad, blah blah)

Finally got it out, it was hard bc it was a one man operation so i had to find button, press button, press key code all by myself.
So where did you drill? Is it a remove the keypad and pick a spot?
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Old 06-23-2013, 2:13 PM
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I have opened a few of these. If the electronics are bad they have gone bad on the inside. The only way to open is by drilling. It either has a S&G or the Laguard knock off lock. A standard drill bit will get you through the first layer. After that you will need a butter bit to get through the hard plate. Once into the lock body use a scratch awl to probe open. Of course you need to know the drill point. I'm not going to give that info out for everyone. If you want to send me a PM I may be able to help you. I will also give you some repair info. The goal is to not destroy the safe.
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Old 06-24-2013, 1:35 PM
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WTF? Stop telling people how to do this stuff!

I appreciate keypads for this; in smoke, confusion and missing your glasses - your "touch" will still get you in.
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Old 06-24-2013, 5:49 PM
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If you changed batteries and it still doesn't work it's possible that the keypad itself is broken. You can replace just the keypad cheaply, your code is stored on a separate board inside the door of the safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by G-forceJunkie View Post
If yo have your serial number, call the manufacturer. Some of those electronic key pads have a back door code that the manufacture can supply. If its an issue of something is not working mechanically, then ya, its going to take a locksmith.
The keypad doesn't store anything, the lock inside the safe does. Quality electronic locks do not have a backdoor either.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SacJDog View Post
If you punched in the code wrong repeatedly then it might have disabled for a set period of time. For example if you punched in the wrong code a few times you might have to wait a few hours before trying again.
This too. after 3-5 incorrect codes in something like 60 seconds the lock will ignore all input for anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tuolumnejim View Post
Nope, the safe is at my place in Nevada and I'm not there all the time. I guess I'll be be bringing some new drill bits the next time I go up.
Unless you know where to drill you're going to be at it for a long time, there should be hard plates in the door that will destroy most drill bits too. Go to a local safe dealer and get a new keypad from them, chances are you just need to swap it out. Once you swap it use your old code to open the safe.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:13 AM
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Maybe before drilling I'll pop the electronic part off and see if it has any problems.
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Old 06-26-2013, 9:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .45 Warrior View Post
Uhhh man. You guys are scaring the crap out of me here.

I just spend $2k on a Liberty safe with an electronic lock and no key backup.

Damn.
Depends on which lock you bought, if it is the Titan D-Drive that lock is about as good as them come.

In regard to any electronic I tell all my customers the same thing, they are faster to use, easier to see, and are programmable. Having said that the combination dial is the most reliable lock in our industry and is what I have on my safes.

OP, when you enter the code are you getting a clicking sound, or does it sound like the motor is trying to release ? Can you take a picture of just the keypad so I can get some troubleshooting tips? Winchesters have come equipped with LaGard, S &G, and knockoff locks that info could help.

Alot of times there is bolt pressure and the solenoid or motor cannot pick up the lock bolt. Make sure the safe is completely in the locked position sometimes the slightest pressure on the mechanism will not allow it to work.
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Old 06-26-2013, 9:52 AM
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Originally Posted by WCSafes View Post
Alot of times there is bolt pressure and the solenoid or motor cannot pick up the lock bolt. Make sure the safe is completely in the locked position sometimes the slightest pressure on the mechanism will not allow it to work.
West Coast Safes, Inc.
I forgot about this. What he means is make sure the handle is turned all the way to the left.
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Old 07-22-2013, 9:48 AM
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Quote:
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It either has a S&G or the Laguard knock off lock.
Laguard is a good brand, they're not a knock off.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by tuolumnejim View Post
Nope, the safe is at my place in Nevada and I'm not there all the time. I guess I'll be be bringing some new drill bits the next time I go up.
Where in NV, j/k

I've had this happen sort of, the lock disengages, yet I simply cannot turn the crank to open, then after a few seconds it relocks
It was due to something being against one if the rods on the bottom, I had like a sling or something slip under as I closed it.
When you key in the code, open like your doing a wide turn, push the crank hard to left then hard to the right, or right then left whichever way yours is configured, your closing it more then opening, it gives it the help it needs to actually fully extend/engage the post that's blocked a bit more
I can place an empty box under where the post goes to engage the bottom and force it into that condition
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Old 08-13-2013, 9:18 AM
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Got it open and repaired by one of the guys (turbobrick) from the Nevada Shooters forum. It was jammed so he took a heavy rubber hammer to the area all around the lock and un-jammed it.

After that fiasco I had him put a dial on it.
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Old 08-28-2013, 7:07 AM
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Quote:
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Laguard is a good brand, they're not a knock off.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
I think he was ttalking about a knock off of lagaurd. Made byy NL, secu ram, or any other numerous chinease knock off.
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Old 08-28-2013, 8:04 AM
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After reading this thread think I'll avoid all electronic safes in future
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Old 08-28-2013, 8:32 AM
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After reading this thread think I'll avoid all electronic safes in future
Based on one incident.
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Old 08-28-2013, 8:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuolumnejim View Post
Got it open and repaired by one of the guys (turbobrick) from the Nevada Shooters forum. It was jammed so he took a heavy rubber hammer to the area all around the lock and un-jammed it.

After that fiasco I had him put a dial on it.
glad to hear it TJ
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Old 08-28-2013, 9:35 AM
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iTrader: 7 / 100%
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I have dual lock. I don't know if there are down sides to this setup, but it's good to know I'll have a way in if the electronics go down.
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My AR is my trunk gun so I can fight back to my AK.



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