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  #1  
Old 03-20-2013, 9:50 AM
aleng888 aleng888 is offline
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Default clean lube off brass

Hi all

I am using redding case lube for my 30-06 brass. I reload about 10-20 each time. I hate throw them in the tumbler because it take me long time to dig them back out. So i have been useing some rubbing alcohol and rag to case the case lube off. I just want to know if anyone know a better to clean off the case lube.

Thank you.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:14 AM
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Unless you are loading hot, I have not found a need to wipe off the lube in my.30-06. However, if you can feel the lube, then wipe it off. Some toss the cartridges in the tumbler, but I wouldn't.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:24 AM
aleng888 aleng888 is offline
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yet i toss them in the tumbler before but when i pull them i need to check the flash hole and wipe the walnut dust off.

Ty
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:34 AM
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I always tumble mine again after decap and size. Once I picked up the RCBS rotary media separator, it was no issues. Quick 15 minutes back in the walnut cleans them up good

-178S
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleng888 View Post
yet i toss them in the tumbler before but when i pull them i need to check the flash hole and wipe the walnut dust off.

Ty
Dude- Reloading is a marathon, not a sprint.

-178S
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:37 AM
Divernhunter Divernhunter is offline
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I use RCBS pump spray Case-Slick spray and just toss them on a old towel then fold the towel over them and rub it back-n-forth. Takes the lube off and little effort. Also the best case lube to use.
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  #7  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleng888 View Post
Hi all

I am using redding case lube for my 30-06 brass. I reload about 10-20 each time. I hate throw them in the tumbler because it take me long time to dig them back out. So i have been useing some rubbing alcohol and rag to case the case lube off. I just want to know if anyone know a better to clean off the case lube.

Thank you.
I clean all lube off, one way, or the other.

For small batches, say under 100ct, I'll use either Redding Imperial Sizing wax, or RCBS CaseLube II on their lube pad.

The former can be wiped off with a clean cotton t-shirt and the latter can be wiped off with a damp shop rag.

I've found that it's actually faster doing it this way, than retumbling the sized carts and picking out media from the primer pockets.

For large batches, it's Dillon Spray lube which needs to be tumbled off, or Hornady's OneShot, which can be loaded up and then wiped down with a rag.

Chris

Last edited by ChrisGarrett; 03-21-2013 at 6:28 PM.. Reason: Spelling
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:53 AM
Irish_Man Irish_Man is offline
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If I have any lube remaining on my cases, I go ahead and load them, then tumble the loaded rounds for about an hour. Come out clean and shiny.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:22 AM
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I use the Hornady spray lube. It works like a champ and wipes off really easily. Haven't tried tumbling them with the lube still on. Must try soon
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Irish_Man View Post
If I have any lube remaining on my cases, I go ahead and load them, then tumble the loaded rounds for about an hour. Come out clean and shiny.
the problem with this is you are breaking down the powder especially with larger rifle powders. this causes the powders to burn at different rates and changes the pressures and can potentially be dangerous. I advise not to tumble any loaded rounds
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:23 AM
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If I have any lube remaining on my cases, I go ahead and load them, then tumble the loaded rounds for about an hour. Come out clean and shiny.
That doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I'm just sayin...
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2013, 11:26 AM
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I use the imperial case lube .. I've loaded about 500 rounds of 30-06 and 7mmRemMag and I've barley put a dent in it .. id say the little tin can will last about 3-4000 rounds
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:24 PM
aleng888 aleng888 is offline
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To One78Shovel

yes i do for my 223 reload if I am doing 100 brass or more. but would use you tumbler for 10-20 brass?


to ChrisGarrett and chango17

so the Redding Imperial Sizing wax is pretty easy to clean off?

Thank you.
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  #14  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chango17 View Post
the problem with this is you are breaking down the powder especially with larger rifle powders. this causes the powders to burn at different rates and changes the pressures and can potentially be dangerous. I advise not to tumble any loaded rounds
This might be overblown. Factory ammo is tumbled after loading and for a few minutes, it's not an issue.

There's a thread over on AR15.com's reloading section where a guy who works with electron microscopes did an extensive test with a few powders, snapping pics before and after loading/tumbling.

It's actually a fascinating experiment and there are lots of pics at high magnification with measurements and after hours of tumbling, you couldn't see any appreciable difference.

For 30min, I would feel comfortable tumbling lube off of cases and have done so.

Think about how that powder got to your dealer? In the back of a truck driving over bumpy roads for perhaps hundreds of miles and many hours. That vibration would be doing damage, if damage was going to take place in the first place.

Chris

Last edited by ChrisGarrett; 03-20-2013 at 5:24 PM..
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  #15  
Old 03-20-2013, 1:46 PM
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Yes as stated by Chris, the factory tumbles their newly produced cartridges. Also all the vibration from shipping and all is WAY more vibration than what I'm doing.. Check the internet. There are a ton of people who say it's bad, and that they have "Heard" of a round going off or whatever. But I have yet to actually hear any first hand experience of a round going off.

I have been tumbling my loaded rounds for year without any problems.. Safety or performance wise..

Plus they come out real nice and shiny
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  #16  
Old 03-20-2013, 1:48 PM
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Have been tumbling loaded rounds for years to clean lube off, no problemo. All it takes is up to 30 minutes.

As far as lube left on/in cases during loading, no problemo, provided you are using a lanolin based lube like Dillon or Hornady. Even if some get's inside case, it will NOT cause trouble with powder and primer. I tested by soaking some primers in Dillon spray lube overnight, I mean soaking them big time. They fired, no problemo, even after letting the ammo age for a few months. It take quite a bit of abuse to deactivate a primer.
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Old 03-20-2013, 3:44 PM
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used to tumble them after i load. But recently Ive been wiping each round with a towel since i Inspect each round by hand anyways.
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Old 03-20-2013, 4:48 PM
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Buy a media separator. Plus it does not take much time to pick out 20 pieces of brass from a tumbler, especially 30-06. I thought I was lazy.
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Old 03-20-2013, 9:14 PM
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I use the spray lube for my cases after i am done sizing and trimming i toss them into hot water and a lil dish soap and shake the bowl.After this i lay out in the sun on a towel or get wifes hairdryer to dry.Once dry i go ahead and clean the primer pockets with a pocket brush.

Has done well for me
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Old 03-20-2013, 9:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Divernhunter View Post
I use RCBS pump spray Case-Slick spray and just toss them on a old towel then fold the towel over them and rub it back-n-forth. Takes the lube off and little effort. Also the best case lube to use.
this is what I use and do.
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  #21  
Old 03-20-2013, 10:32 PM
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I really like the Hornady One Shot after using RCBS for years.The RCBS was water soluble so I washed the cases with Dawn and hot water and dried on a towel.Recently I was talked into trying Dillon.I know they make great loaders,but their case lube is like wtf.It has to be wiped off,soaked in alcohol a couple times or sprayed down with brake cleaner.If I use it I roll the cases around in a dollar store cookie sheet and lube the necks with graphite.Then rub the Dillon off with a towel.I am going back to the first 2 mentioned.The Hornady is a little more costly,because it doesn't go as far but after you use it it just dries up and wipes off easy.It is real nice for progressive loading.
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Old 03-21-2013, 2:54 PM
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I only tumble cases that I have never used or are excessively dirty.
Then soak with laqurethinner, Size and deprime, Soak in laqurethinner again to remove any oils what so ever then prime and load.

Oils can creep and cause fouling of the powder and primer.
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Old 03-21-2013, 2:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooV View Post
I only tumble cases that I have never used or are excessively dirty.
Then soak with laqurethinner, Size and deprime, Soak in laqurethinner again to remove any oils what so ever then prime and load.

Oils can creep and cause fouling of the powder and primer.
The laquer thinner seems a bit excessive to me.

What's so difficult about tumbling for 60-90min in corn/walnut with a little bit of metal polish thrown in?

What's the deal with oils?

Chris
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Old 03-21-2013, 3:53 PM
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I use hornady oneshot and rcbs. The rcbs works better. A lot stickier and harder to clean off too...

I wash in hot soapy water, rinse about three times, and put on towels in the sun.

I HATE poking walnut out of flasholes..... I wont do that again...

I wont put loaded ammo in a tumbler either.
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Old 03-21-2013, 4:04 PM
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I use Franklin Arsenal spray lube, squirt in a bag, shake the bag up, dump out the brass, and let dry a bit. Then resize on my turret press without the indexing rod, after resizing I put the brass in untreated corn and tumble off the lube. The I back the resize die out 3 turns put the index rod back in my turret and load away. The decapping pin will clean the media out of the flash hole just fine when I back it out 3 turns and I prime in on the down stroke so it's all good.

I use to try to wipe the cases down after loading but it seamed to take longer than how I do it know.
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Old 03-21-2013, 4:25 PM
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I tumble my loaded rounds for about 30 minutes to knock off the lube. Then separate with a Dillon media separator.
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Old 03-21-2013, 5:59 PM
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I just use Astroglide for case lube. Water soluble, so it washes right off!
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:31 AM
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What do you use to get the tumble dust off the live cartridges after?, Or do you just box and chamber the dusty cartridges.

Chris, As I said oils creep and fouls the powdercharge, Even the oils from your hands can cause powder contamination.
Laquir thinner dries really fast so you can get back to work faster, And pounding out one squibload in my life was enough to make me thorough.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooV View Post
What do you use to get the tumble dust off the live cartridges after?, Or do you just box and chamber the dusty cartridges.

Chris, As I said oils creep and fouls the powdercharge, Even the oils from your hands can cause powder contamination.
Laquir thinner dries really fast so you can get back to work faster, And pounding out one squibload in my life was enough to make me thorough.
I've never understood why so many people get dust on their cases after tumbling? A few used dryer sheets cut into 3"x3" squares seems to take care of that, but I just use quality corn, or walnut and while their might be some minor residue left over, it's nothing that would prevent me from picking my nose after remove and separating my cases from the media.

As far as oils from your hands moving into the powder column, requiring you to douse your cases with laquer thinner, I think you're just creating a problem in your own mind.

To think that a few finger prints worth of oil on a case is somehow going to migrate up the outside, squeeze through the case neck and seep back down into the powder, causing an ignition problem is really the stuff that tin-foil is made for, sorry to say.

You're probably doing more harm working with laquer thinner, than just letting things be.

Slopping Slick 50 on your cases before sizing and then NOT tumbling it off...sure, I might be able to buy that.

Chris
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Old 03-22-2013, 1:02 PM
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Sounds like the tumbling of loaded ammo concern has collapsed with the ammo in the truck bed tool box story. Where after driving around in the back of the truck for more than 10 years...BOOM.

I just wipe the lube off on small batches.
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