Replacing the starter and flywheel/flexplate in my auto 97 4.3 S10. Any Tips?

[m1aowner]

$1400 plus to repair at the dealer?! I think I'll do it myself.

Never done this before, but I got the parts and think all the tools (tranny jack...etc) I need to do the work. Any tips about the 97s, or anything else to help make the work easier?

Thanks fellas.

[rorschach]

Originally Posted by m1aowner

Any tips about the 97s, or anything else to help make the work easier?

Heres a tip: Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

JK...While you're in there, check your rear main seal and the rear freeze plugs.

So....is it a flywheel or flexplate your replacing??

[VeryCoolCat]

2WD
http://www.autozone.com/N,314977/ini...cleSelect4.htm

4WD
http://www.autozone.com/N,314978/ini...cleSelect4.htm

[mike100]

You will need a friend to help you put it back in, but you should be able to get the trans out by yourself. They do make transmission jack style floor jacks too, but they aren't usually $59 so you'll probably just have to take it easy and use a strong friend.

This would be a good time to buy the GM one piece rear main seal if you need it. There have been many occasions (mostly on cars I owned personally) where I would buy new flywheel/flexplate bolts from the dealer. Sometimes I put a bit of locktite on them if they don't come with the factory dry loctite on them already. If it is an auto trans, be prepared to spill a lot of slushbox juice. (they do make plastic tailhousing plugs that fit in like a driveshaft to keep it from spilling out that way.

On some older s-10's, I found it very helpful to have a second jack and a 4x4 block of wood to jack up the engine by the front damper which will make the motor mounts flex back and really angle the trans downward so the bell housing will clear the firewall without difficulty. That's about it,the rest just is labor and time which will pretty much suck if you don't spend a lot of time doing undercar service.

if you mess with the starter, be sure to unhook the battery first.

[ColdSteel14]

Dont drop the trans! All you need to do is take the torque converter bolts off, install some longer bellhousing bolts to loosely hold the trans and slide the trans back 2-3 inches. you may need to take the x-member(s) off and maybe loosen the motormounts but its easy enough to do the flywheel without dropping the trans. Just make sure you have some quality wrenches and something to use as a cheater bar to get those flywheel bolts off.. Find a helper too. That'll make it way easier when breaking those flywheel bolts loose.

[M. Sage]

Tip one:
Make very sure that the torque converter does NOT come out of the transmission pump. They can fall out just a little bit and you won't notice. Make sure it stays completely seated, or you'll break the pump!!! Before you install, look across the bellhousing surface, and see if any more than the studs (or mounting pads, I thing it uses bolts instead of studs now that I think of it) on the converter extend beyond that plane. If so, lift slightly on the converter, rotate it and push it toward the transmission. It should click in.

Tip two:
GM was fond of super-gluing the electrical connector into the transmission range sensor around that time. Don't try to unplug it, you'll likely break the sensor. Just take the shift linkage off the selector shaft, then unbolt the sensor and take it off the transmission.

Tip three:
Buy a new extension housing seal and shaft and replace them as long as the transmission is out.

Tip four:
Ditto the rear crankshaft seal. Make sure to pre-lube it with some bearing grease.

Also be aware that you're working with fine thread fasteners in the flex plate (AKA flywheel) and converter, so they won't have to be as tight as you'd think... or they'll break.

ETA: I would actually drop the trans all the way. It's worth it to check and make sure the converter is fully seated before you go tightening the bellhousing bolts. It's also totally worth it to avoid scraped knuckles and the "I can't see!" associated with trying to work around something. Two or three inches ain't much clearance...

Oh, and be careful of that flex-plate. That stamped steel is SHARP!

[ColdSteel14]

Good info.. Now he's just gotta go do it.

Heh.. I'm just lazy. I've done 2 GM's and a ford that way. The "I can't see factor" is mighty high when not dropping the trans."

[jaymz]

Make sure that you don't put it on backwards! Pay attention to how the old one comes out, and put the new one back on the same way, otherwise

[m1aowner]

Thanks for your help guys! Really appreciate it.

Well I finally to tinker with this. Good thing I got another car to drive in the mean time.

I removed the starter and discovered the front housing was completely destroyed. Nice sight that was. And the joksters at the dealer, broke one of the connectors to the solenoid. Thanks a lot for that Mr. Goodwrench. Don't even bother to replace it.

I wasn't ready to start the process of removing the transmission yet. I was just looking at everything, taking my time, seeing what else I have to remove. But something that puzzled me a little, is how do you reach those upper tranny bolts? Damn things look like a pain to get to. Looks like I'll need to get a super long extender? Is there a speciality tool to get those thing off? It looks as if there might be some extra room to move around once all the little exterior stuff is unfastened from the transmission, but not sure. I'm thinking it might almost be easier to just pull the engine and tranny together? What do you guys think?

Thanks

[Harbinger]

Wow... and I thought I was 'awesome' for replacing my Celica's suspension. Good luck, my man!