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  #321  
Old 03-22-2013, 7:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyLungzNJ View Post
I wish I could afford this!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Para-Ordnanc...item1c313ce99c

It's so ironic, if I didn't have so many projects open I could get it easily.
Alas the wife has put her little foot down!
Would be a good deal if it was a ramped barrel but it is not.
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  #322  
Old 03-22-2013, 11:46 PM
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yes it is!!!
all p-10 p-12 13 p-14 are proprietary para ramped.
That's just the way it is.
If I'm wrong.... please school me as I've yet to see one in my months of research.

Last edited by DustyLungzNJ; 03-22-2013 at 11:54 PM..
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  #323  
Old 03-22-2013, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyLungzNJ View Post
yes it is!!!
all p-10 p-12 13 p-14 are proprietary para ramped.
That's just the way it is.
When in doubt, bust the welder out =) you can use any barrel you want =)

-
Joe
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  #324  
Old 03-22-2013, 11:56 PM
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Only if I had your skillz!!!
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  #325  
Old 03-22-2013, 11:59 PM
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I look at it like

I came
I ****ed **** up
I left


=)

-joe
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  #326  
Old 03-23-2013, 12:02 AM
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Amen Brotha!
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  #327  
Old 03-23-2013, 3:13 AM
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Dusty, hang in there bro. Just cause Para has their own style doen't mean you cant mod it with success. Lots of changes have been made to accomodate multitude of problems with barrels and feeding with accuracy...

Which frame did you decide to tackle first?
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  #328  
Old 03-23-2013, 5:58 AM
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In reference to the Ramped Barrel Problem this is the solution I am going to use. I milled out a piece of 4140 and contoured it to fit in the Slide Stop
channel. I plan to JB Weld it then drill and pin, the pics. show the piece and
the Scribed line is where I still have to cut off the excess. Once it is setup then I will mill the final fit and the Barrel Saddle and Feed Ramp..

Last edited by tr6guns; 05-22-2016 at 6:42 AM..
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  #329  
Old 03-23-2013, 7:41 AM
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There ya go. I bet the purists are wetting their pants on some of this stuff. Make them, I was looking at 3/8 drill rod for that this morning, it is ok for diameter but won't work for the vertical impact surface, this is a far better setup. Excellent idea!
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  #330  
Old 03-23-2013, 9:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyLungzNJ View Post
yes it is!!!
all p-10 p-12 13 p-14 are proprietary para ramped.
That's just the way it is.
If I'm wrong.... please school me as I've yet to see one in my months of research.
IDK what it came off but this doesnt look ramped to me...




IDK I have thought about filling in the Ramped seat area but it is probably the most important area on the frame from a safety standpoint and I am not sure I want to go messing with it. Interested to see how yours turns out.
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  #331  
Old 03-23-2013, 10:04 AM
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Default Yes you can...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyLungzNJ View Post
I wish I could afford this!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Para-Ordnanc...item1c313ce99c

It's so ironic, if I didn't have so many projects open I could get it easily.
Alas the wife has put her little foot down!
Dusty go to the Para web site and buy direct...
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  #332  
Old 03-23-2013, 11:04 AM
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Dusty go to the Para web site and buy direct...
Do you have a link?
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  #333  
Old 03-23-2013, 3:31 PM
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Dusty.....you are correct but, I think they were not always ramped. I dont know how many years ago they started but I think they were regular 1911 style at one time. I like the insert solution, was thinking of some variation myself, but might just pop for a Bar Sto barrel. Ill cross that bridge after I get rails and FGC done which is along way off.
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  #334  
Old 03-23-2013, 4:02 PM
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Default Watch out on Sarco casting P 12

Hi Just received my 5 frames ,look like P12 ,when un wrapping them look at them and there was factory type numbers stamped on two of my frames.I got a hold of Sarco at first they said they were just paper weights and I repeted that I found numbers and did not like it and they were made to put 1911 parts on.some one heard our conversation and she said hold on she would be right back.She went and talked to the president of the company and he said send them back for an exchange,I did that yesterday.They ended up being COOl about as they said if I put a slide on the one that had numbers is would be considered a non registered firearm and you would get in trouble as a home builder and I told her that is why I am reporting it to keep me and them out of trouble.
If you receive one with numbers on them give them a phone call ,they will tell you to look at the bottom of their page and there is a form to return items.They have a 5 day window for you to do it ,do it right away after you phone them you have received a numberd frame.one thumb short Good Luck
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  #335  
Old 03-23-2013, 4:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one thumb short View Post
Hi Just received my 5 frames ,look like P12 ,when un wrapping them look at them and there was factory type numbers stamped on two of my frames.I got a hold of Sarco at first they said they were just paper weights and I repeted that I found numbers and did not like it and they were made to put 1911 parts on.some one heard our conversation and she said hold on she would be right back.She went and talked to the president of the company and he said send them back for an exchange,I did that yesterday.They ended up being COOl about as they said if I put a slide on the one that had numbers is would be considered a non registered firearm and you would get in trouble as a home builder and I told her that is why I am reporting it to keep me and them out of trouble.
If you receive one with numbers on them give them a phone call ,they will tell you to look at the bottom of their page and there is a form to return items.They have a 5 day window for you to do it ,do it right away after you phone them you have received a numberd frame.one thumb short Good Luck

Did you take any pics?

-joe

Btw looking good guys =D
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  #336  
Old 03-23-2013, 8:25 PM
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Hey what are you guys using as a ref point? I was planing to use the hole for the mag release.

-joe
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  #337  
Old 03-23-2013, 9:20 PM
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Chirp chirp lol
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  #338  
Old 03-23-2013, 10:13 PM
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Chirp chirp lol
I thought people were saying the mag release was in a different spot but the slide stop detent tube was in the correct location. IDK, someone will be by shortly to answer your question for sure.

*piano music*
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  #339  
Old 03-24-2013, 12:14 AM
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I measured a big differance on the mag release location, I think I figured it out I'll pos pics and some measurements once I see it's successful.

-joe
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  #340  
Old 03-24-2013, 2:35 AM
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Got some progress done guys, I'll post some pics later after I wake up. I think I have the mag release pocket figured out, see you guys in about 6 hours lol

-joe
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  #341  
Old 03-24-2013, 12:30 PM
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Ok fellers I guess its time to show a little progress.

As you guys know I welded the barrel seat and machined it flat with the plunger tube. I also squared up the top t
Of the frame.




And last night I machined a small spot on the bottom of the trigger guard jus to make sure I'm holding it square, this will be easy to blend once this is complete.



Then I proceeded to finish the FCG holes as well as the take down hole and mag release hole.



Yup that's my thumb safty I broke(it looked a little tweaked so I tried to strighten it... What a mistake..)

Pics a little dark but you can see the mag release hole.


And here is a little action on the mill cutting the mag release

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/v...9CB8E77FED.mp4

Today I should be cuttting the rails and MSH area.
Im going to have to get another thumb safty and the rest of the major parts(slide, barrel etc)

Also I think instead of tring to bend the bottom of the spring I think we should work the "fingers" seems to be a better idea after looking at it last night. If the mag release works I'll give every one the number from the center of the take down hole.

Thanks for looking guys!
-joe

Last edited by mr.; 03-24-2013 at 1:01 PM.. Reason: Fixed video link
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  #342  
Old 03-24-2013, 3:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoagiem View Post
Do you have a link?
Here...

http://paraproshop.com/
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  #343  
Old 03-24-2013, 4:35 PM
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Joe - what kind of cnc mill is that?

Also was curious why u think we need to work the finger end of sear spring vs MSH end? Seems easier to do one bend vs 3?
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  #344  
Old 03-24-2013, 5:14 PM
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Mill is a g0704 that I converted to Cnc, I think we should work the fingers because if you snap the bottom you have to start over. You can work each "finger" by grinding them a little shorter. I don't think the center and right finger have to be shortened to much the sear finger would be the hardest but still not as bad as tring to bend the bottom.

I have my final numbers for the mag release hole.

First I'll tell you guys how I got it. With my frame flat and square in my vise I found the location for the top grip screw, turns out it is in the same spot as a std 1911 frame. So I used the center of that as my ref point at first. So after that I moved it over 1.937 on the x and .431 one the y. That would be my new true ref point for the take down hole. Afterwards I indicated te existing hole on the para frame, and the new numbers are x1.224 y1.140 for the mag release. I tried it and it seems like its in the proper spot. Here's a vid on how smooth it is.

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/v...1C3C63B1C7.mp4

I prob won't be able to finish this today I still have to get a few parts, I may try to work the seat spring today tho.

-joe
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  #345  
Old 03-24-2013, 5:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpage View Post
I meant for the slide assembly.
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  #346  
Old 03-24-2013, 5:57 PM
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Hey Brian, what are you using to keep the sear centered? Seems like it needs some series 80 parts, I'm thinking of making a spacer

-joe
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  #347  
Old 03-25-2013, 4:01 AM
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Here is some info on long drill bits for the plunger tube. Go to KBCTools.com page 27 and get a 3/32 and #38 aircraft extension drill for about $1.97 each. and then get a #1 long center drill on page 45 for $3.90. The key is getting the setup supported with the drill bit parallel to the plunger tube, don't hang the dust cover off the side of the drill press table. Make sure it is secured, center drill it to start the hole and then use the small drill first, use a fast rpm and a lot of oil, peck drill it: drill a little and back the drill out to clean it, use a lot of cutting oil. Go slow.
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  #348  
Old 03-25-2013, 4:16 AM
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The sear spring finger approach might work but you have to anneal that spring to bend it, then you have to heat treat the spring to bring it back to life. My approach was to shorten the bottom. I put the spring in a vise bottom side up with about 1/2" or so sticking out of the top of the vise. Heat the end section red hot, the area near the vise won't get red hot, let it heat for a while, several minutes at least. Using a dremel cutoff disk I carefully cut the sides down 1/4" and trimmed them. My casting doesn't have the slot for the spring so I will put it in accordingly. Put the spring back in the vise with a support behind it and at the bend location, 1/8" flat stock with a good square corner works well. Put the torch to it again and heat it up red, then carefully tap the end tang over at the new bend location. The vise acts like a heat sink so it protects the fingers from the heat but it also draws away heat from the torch so you have to keep the torch on the piece while you are bending it. Trim the excess tab off and you are good to go. While the spring is still in the vise pluck the fingers and they should sound like a tuning fork if they haven't lost temper.

If your casting is already cut for the spring tab just reduce the length of the spring by the distance the slot is from the bottom of the casting. The end tab doesn't need to be heat treated, it just locates the spring.

Last edited by Hoagiem; 03-25-2013 at 4:18 AM.. Reason: added info
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  #349  
Old 03-25-2013, 4:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. View Post
Mill is a g0704 that I converted to Cnc, I think we should work the fingers because if you snap the bottom you have to start over. You can work each "finger" by grinding them a little shorter. I don't think the center and right finger have to be shortened to much the sear finger would be the hardest but still not as bad as tring to bend the bottom.

I have my final numbers for the mag release hole.

First I'll tell you guys how I got it. With my frame flat and square in my vise I found the location for the top grip screw, turns out it is in the same spot as a std 1911 frame. So I used the center of that as my ref point at first. So after that I moved it over 1.937 on the x and .431 one the y. That would be my new true ref point for the take down hole. Afterwards I indicated te existing hole on the para frame, and the new numbers are x1.224 y1.140 for the mag release. I tried it and it seems like its in the proper spot. Here's a vid on how smooth it is.

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/v...1C3C63B1C7.mp4

I prob won't be able to finish this today I still have to get a few parts, I may try to work the seat spring today tho.

-joe
Good job on locating the mag release hole. My post from the 15th gave three reference points to verify that.
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  #350  
Old 03-25-2013, 5:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoagiem View Post
ck66 thanks for the dimension.

If anybody is interested, the mag release hole is not in the same place as the 1911, cannot use it to set up zero on the receiver, unless somebody knows the dimension to the mag release from the slide release hole on these receivers. The top grip screw hole appears to be in the correct 1911 position, I will know more after I set it up and indicate it. I spent about three hours the other night measuring and marking the receiver until I finally found several locations to zero from. The plunger tube can be used to set horizontal zero and the thumb safety relief can be used to set vertical zero and double check the top grip screw hole. The slide release hole in front of the plunger tube back edge of hole can also be verified/used to set vertical zero. I am assuming that the bottom flat of the hole is good to use as another point to verify horizontal zero since it is a critical dimension, I will verify it when I finish my holding jig. subtle differences that can't be readily seen or determined by eye can turn this chunk of metal into just that, a chunk of metal.
Thanks mark, I seem to forget all about this post and it seems like we did almost exactly the same thing haha. Great kinds think alike =)
That post was def a wayssssss back.
-joe
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  #351  
Old 03-25-2013, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mr. View Post
Hey Brian, what are you using to keep the sear centered? Seems like it needs some series 80 parts, I'm thinking of making a spacer

-joe
Joe - at first I thought I was going to need something like that but when I got everything assembled it seemed like the sear spring keeps the sear where it belongs.
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  #352  
Old 03-25-2013, 2:07 PM
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Gotcha, I may still use a spacer =)

-joe
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  #353  
Old 03-26-2013, 9:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoagiem View Post
I meant for the slide assembly.
Call for...

Yes. Please call customer service to get pricing.


Tim Fusetti
Customer Service


10620 Southern Loop Blvd., Pineville, NC, 28012
Phone: 704.930.7600 | Fax: 704.930.7601
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  #354  
Old 03-26-2013, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one thumb short View Post
Hi Just received my 5 frames ,look like P12 ,when un wrapping them look at them and there was factory type numbers stamped on two of my frames.I got a hold of Sarco at first they said they were just paper weights and I repeted that I found numbers and did not like it and they were made to put 1911 parts on.some one heard our conversation and she said hold on she would be right back.She went and talked to the president of the company and he said send them back for an exchange,I did that yesterday.They ended up being COOl about as they said if I put a slide on the one that had numbers is would be considered a non registered firearm and you would get in trouble as a home builder and I told her that is why I am reporting it to keep me and them out of trouble.
If you receive one with numbers on them give them a phone call ,they will tell you to look at the bottom of their page and there is a form to return items.They have a 5 day window for you to do it ,do it right away after you phone them you have received a numberd frame.one thumb short Good Luck
Just called sarco today and they said the numbers are lot numbers and are of no consequence . Makes you wonder and now there all sold out .
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  #355  
Old 03-26-2013, 1:04 PM
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So I have been following this thread for some time now. I have my frame and proprietary parts from Para have shipped. My question is where is everyone getting their blueprints from? I have some prints from Google images but they are not very visible once printed. Any help would be great.
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  #356  
Old 03-26-2013, 1:38 PM
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So I have been following this thread for some time now. I have my frame and proprietary parts from Para have shipped. My question is where is everyone getting their blueprints from? I have some prints from Google images but they are not very visible once printed. Any help would be great.
There is much out there... Best bet to buy a paper copy.
Here is one link ...
http://www.m1911.org/partname.htm
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  #357  
Old 03-26-2013, 2:07 PM
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Default p12

Can the sarco frame be built in 9 m/m or is it .45 only .
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  #358  
Old 03-26-2013, 2:27 PM
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9mm, .38, .45, not to sure about .22 I could prob figure it out tho =)

-joe
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Old 03-26-2013, 2:52 PM
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Default para

Thank You
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  #360  
Old 03-26-2013, 3:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpage View Post
There is much out there... Best bet to buy a paper copy.
Here is one link ...
http://www.m1911.org/partname.htm
Can also get one from CNCguns in PDF format

http://www.cncguns.com/downloads.html
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