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  #241  
Old 03-12-2013, 9:53 PM
kcstwin kcstwin is offline
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For those of you guys who got the p12 size frame ... What sear springs are you guys using on para pro shop I can't seem to find one that fits the p12 and I don't know if an officer sized one will fit ... I have heard some guys talking about the warthog springs ... What springs work and where can I get them ? Andy help would be much appreciated
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  #242  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:29 PM
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Anyone get a llama slide yet?

-joe
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  #243  
Old 03-13-2013, 4:31 AM
Hoagiem Hoagiem is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcstwin View Post
For those of you guys who got the p12 size frame ... What sear springs are you guys using on para pro shop I can't seem to find one that fits the p12 and I don't know if an officer sized one will fit ... I have heard some guys talking about the warthog springs ... What springs work and where can I get them ? Andy help would be much appreciated
It seems as though the sear spring is going to be a DIY, shouldn't be that difficult. The sear spring slot is not in the castings. It is not the preferred method but if somebody is tackling this project it is just one more step to complete. The standard could be shortened by 1/4" and then the slot could be cut accordingly. 1/4" would allow clearance for the bottom lip of the mainspring housing. The sear spring could be carefully annealed at the bottom and then trimmed to length and a new tab bent. The tab is a locator and there isn't really any stress on it. Clamp it between two pieces of aluminum or steel so that the bottom is exposed about 3/8" and heat it with a torch, it will bend without breaking, or you could heat it and simultaneously tap it over with a small hammer. It would have to be clamped at the point of the bend in that case.

Sear springs are cheap, get two just in case.
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  #244  
Old 03-13-2013, 9:30 AM
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No not yet still waiting on mine.
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  #245  
Old 03-13-2013, 2:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyLungzNJ View Post
No not yet still waiting on mine.
Lmk how it goes, I'm kinda using you as a giuna pig haha

-joe
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  #246  
Old 03-13-2013, 7:27 PM
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Hi I just bought one of these frames this week end at Del Mar gun show,I have bought the SS 17-4 frames from him before and he has built his own .I am a retired machinest looks like you are doing a fine job.Wish my mill was cnc .The frame I bought when talking to the guy ,I asked questions about material and he said they told him it was 4140 material ,do not know for sure but that is what he said as he said he checked with them.Know if they have more I think I will buy some more,and get started.I hope this might help.Thanks one thumb short
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  #247  
Old 03-13-2013, 7:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by one thumb short View Post
Hi I just bought one of these frames this week end at Del Mar gun show,I have bought the SS 17-4 frames from him before and he has built his own .I am a retired machinest looks like you are doing a fine job.Wish my mill was cnc .The frame I bought when talking to the guy ,I asked questions about material and he said they told him it was 4140 material ,do not know for sure but that is what he said as he said he checked with them.Know if they have more I think I will buy some more,and get started.I hope this might help.Thanks one thumb short
What did you pay? What does he sell the 17-4 ones for? Is it a p12 or p13? Pics?

-joe
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  #248  
Old 03-13-2013, 7:36 PM
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I'm going to a gunshow on sat, see what I come home with haha

-joe
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  #249  
Old 03-13-2013, 8:09 PM
brianbonedoc brianbonedoc is offline
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Hopefully someone can help with this problem.
I got the new firing pin and recoil spring and they fit perfect.

But when I rack the slide (empty) it stops about 1/4-1/8" from full battery. If I push on the muzzle it snaps to full battery.



Here is a link to a couple videos so you can see:

http://s1355.beta.photobucket.com/us...15822.mp4.html

http://s1355.beta.photobucket.com/us...96d9c.mp4.html
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  #250  
Old 03-13-2013, 8:35 PM
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I want to say barrel timing, looks like the locking lugs are hanging up, mabe a link prob? I'd take it apart and start addin piece by piece, see what causes the prob. Looks really good btw!

-joe
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  #251  
Old 03-13-2013, 8:37 PM
brianbonedoc brianbonedoc is offline
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Maybe shorter barrel link?
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  #252  
Old 03-13-2013, 8:51 PM
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I'm not sure, my ares 80 is going to be my first 1911 haha but like I said I'd take it all apart and add one thing at a time until you find the binding.

-joe
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  #253  
Old 03-13-2013, 8:52 PM
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Joe is in the right place, perform all the checks in the Schuemann barrel timing test procedure. The clearance between the barrel and slide while off the frame is critical and then the clearance between the barrel and slide when the slide is assembled to the gun is also critical. I had a short barreled officers that was doing that, it actually took a longer link to finally clear it up, along with relieving the barrel seat(frame bridge) and relieving the bottom of the barrel. That can be found in the Kuhnhausen 1911 book. Your slide is brand new and probably very close tolerance, as is your barrel. If that binding occurs and it is fired it may shear something or jam up tight. Check the timing first and foremost. That same issue drove me nuts for quite a while.
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  #254  
Old 03-13-2013, 8:56 PM
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Thats a good looking home build by the way, I need to get busy on mine, too many projects and so little time.
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  #255  
Old 03-13-2013, 8:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoagiem View Post
Thats a good looking home build by the way, I need to get busy on mine, too many projects and so little time.
+1000
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  #256  
Old 03-13-2013, 9:38 PM
brianbonedoc brianbonedoc is offline
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Thanks for the tips - I will reread the Schuemann stuff.

Believe me the finish does not look as good in person - it's getting scratched up, and is now largely a "sharpie marker" finish! I will cerakote it when I get the bugs worked out.
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  #257  
Old 03-14-2013, 2:13 PM
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So I polished the muzzle end of the barrel and barrel bushing and it seemed to improve the failure to return to full battery. Now if it doesnt go a small push with the thumb on the slide gives a positive lock to battery.

I went ahead and test fired it and IT WORKS! First shot fired off, cycled the slide and hammer. I only loaded one round so I don't know how the rounds will cycle. Unfortunately it didnt lock the slide back as my slide stop seems really tight against the plunger.

I will have to take it to the range and really try out a couple of mags worth.

Photo is blurry because I was shaking w/ excitement! Also forgot ear protection... not good.

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  #258  
Old 03-14-2013, 4:05 PM
brianbonedoc brianbonedoc is offline
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BTW - there are a couple of 4.25" barrels on ebay now - original new Para brand (w/ Para ramp) search for "para barrel"
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  #259  
Old 03-14-2013, 4:13 PM
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Yeah I saw them got'em on watchlist money's a little funny right now though.
BTW where did you get the slide lock?
Is it a double stack?
if not could that be why the slide didn't lock back?

Last edited by DustyLungzNJ; 03-14-2013 at 5:32 PM..
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  #260  
Old 03-14-2013, 7:01 PM
Hoagiem Hoagiem is offline
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Check these barrels, the manufacturers suggested retail is $160.00, some of the retailers will let them go for less. http://www.storm-lake.com/products/barrel#top brand new, gunsmith fit.

I have one in a commander and it is a sweetheart.
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  #261  
Old 03-14-2013, 7:16 PM
brianbonedoc brianbonedoc is offline
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Dusty - the slide lock is a standard 1911 - I just feels like the plunger spring is really tight and the magazine spring can't overpower it.

Hoag - I looked at the storm lake ones but no Clark/Para ramp option.
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  #262  
Old 03-14-2013, 8:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbonedoc View Post
Dusty - the slide lock is a standard 1911 - I just feels like the plunger spring is really tight and the magazine spring can't overpower it.

Hoag - I looked at the storm lake ones but no Clark/Para ramp option.
You can get the Clark/Para ramp on the gunsmith fit barrels only it seems.
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  #263  
Old 03-15-2013, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbonedoc View Post
So I polished the muzzle end of the barrel and barrel bushing and it seemed to improve the failure to return to full battery. Now if it doesnt go a small push with the thumb on the slide gives a positive lock to battery.

I went ahead and test fired it and IT WORKS! First shot fired off, cycled the slide and hammer. I only loaded one round so I don't know how the rounds will cycle. Unfortunately it didnt lock the slide back as my slide stop seems really tight against the plunger.

I will have to take it to the range and really try out a couple of mags worth.

Photo is blurry because I was shaking w/ excitement! Also forgot ear protection... not good.


Hey bud you still having the problem with lockup? I just finished my ares 80 and Im having the same problem, mine is the barrel hood needs to be fitted. Just a heads up to check it.

Lmk if its the problem

-joe
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  #264  
Old 03-15-2013, 1:46 PM
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Joe - I don't think its barrel hood problem as when I fit the barrel to the slide off the gun it fits perfectly. I really think it is/was a barrel bushing issue. I am hopefully off to the range this afternoon to test it out.

How is the Ares build going? Hopefully I will have my frame shortly.
BTW there are some great videos on barrel fitting on youtube - search for severncustom.
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  #265  
Old 03-15-2013, 5:40 PM
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Did you paint the inside of the slide also? That may have added to the tolerance stack up and made the barrel a little tight to the slide and frame lugs.
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  #266  
Old 03-15-2013, 6:35 PM
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RANGE REPORT:
Not so good. I still had trouble with return to battery. I would have to push the slide forward after each round to return to full battery. My groupings were very tight and the trigger was crisp.

So I came home and sanded down the muzzle and barrel bushing a bit w/ 500grit sandpaper. Then I noticed my ejector was riding a little high so I filed the legs of the ejector slightly. Then I shortened the plunger by a few thou so it would not put as much pressure on the slide stop as it wasn't locking back after empty mag. And of course then lubed everything up really well. Now it seems that it runs pretty smooth - but still need another range trip to confirm:

Check the video:
http://s1355.beta.photobucket.com/us...b1d53.mp4.html


SMR510 - yeah i did coat the inside of the slide although its peeling badly. I really need to cerakote this thing once it function correctly.
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  #267  
Old 03-15-2013, 8:44 PM
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heavier recoil spring?
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  #268  
Old 03-15-2013, 9:35 PM
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Nope std recoil spring - just proper fitment and lube
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  #269  
Old 03-16-2013, 7:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyLungzNJ View Post
No not yet still waiting on mine.
Get the slide yet? =)

-joe
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  #270  
Old 03-16-2013, 4:34 PM
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Check the rails and top for rubs...
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  #271  
Old 03-16-2013, 8:56 PM
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For those that are looking for a DIY way to cut your own slide rails without a milling machine check this post, http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=725965.

I swear I am going to get my P12 built one of these days!!!
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  #272  
Old 03-17-2013, 3:36 PM
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So yesterday I bead blasted the gun and refinished it w/ the rest of the Wheeler Cerama-coat that I had and baked it for 1.5hrs at 375. The finish is nice matte black.

Then I reassembled everything and went to the range.
It ran like a dream. Not one hiccup or failure to return to battery w/ Remington ammo (a few FTF w/ the PMC ammo)
My groupings were pretty tight as I am not the best shot and I dont have sights installed yet.

Overall I am really happy w/ the function and look of the gun. I hope the finish holds up, otherwise its cerakote for me. Hopefully the few FTFs were just crappy ammo!

Check out the video:
http://s1355.beta.photobucket.com/us...259bd.mp4.html

Last edited by brianbonedoc; 03-17-2013 at 3:39 PM..
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  #273  
Old 03-17-2013, 5:55 PM
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Lookin good! I haven't done anything to the p12 yet because I finally received my ares stuff last week. Been working on that currently, I had one gov length .45 put togather and lost the barrel bushing last night when taking it apart lol, gott look for it today and I'll take a pic.

-joe

Oh yea hey dusty you ever get ur slide?
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  #274  
Old 03-17-2013, 6:31 PM
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yep working on it now.
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  #275  
Old 03-17-2013, 6:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyLungzNJ View Post
yep working on it now.
So how complete was it and what was the final cost?

-joe
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  #276  
Old 03-17-2013, 7:20 PM
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what is that type of grip called
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  #277  
Old 03-17-2013, 8:10 PM
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Hey guys Im really really new but I wanted to tell you that I got sarco to change the PN C45287 to not say p14 anymore in the title. Now it says p12 but the description says p13/p14 frame!!! ARRGH I cant quite win!! I am still waiting for my mini mill from harbor freight to come.


http://www.e-sarcoinc.com/widebody19...astings-3.aspx
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  #278  
Old 03-17-2013, 8:31 PM
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Good deal, GL with ur build!
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  #279  
Old 03-17-2013, 9:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMartin1776 View Post
what is that type of grip called
Hogue
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  #280  
Old 03-18-2013, 1:21 AM
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Ok guys I havnt finished all my ares 80's but I decided to get a little start on a p12, so far I squared up the top of the frame. I went off of the plunger tube for flatness so here's the pics..





I know it's not much but hey it's a start haha, as you can see I also machined the plunger tube flat it wa within a few thou after I slightly stoned it so I decided I should make it exactly flat with everything else. I machined the top,sides and front of the rails I also machined the top of the dustcover. As it sits it look like I'll be machining another .015-.02 thou off the top when I'm cutting the rails and barrel seat.

More to come guys, tomarrow I'll post a pic of my first finished ares 1911.
-joe
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