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  #161  
Old 03-04-2013, 9:07 PM
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Can you post Pics of all three frames for reference?
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  #162  
Old 03-04-2013, 9:08 PM
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I also got a alloy frame no numbers, seem there all p12.

-joe
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  #163  
Old 03-04-2013, 10:24 PM
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I ordered 5 yesterday I'm really curious to see what I get. I added a note to my order to see if they could pick the casting with the shortest mag-well. We'll see, I guess.

Last edited by DustyLungzNJ; 03-05-2013 at 2:31 AM..
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  #164  
Old 03-05-2013, 10:52 AM
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I started these 2 frames today, not much there yet because I'm waiting on a few parts and have to order a few tools

This is a lda frame I plan to turn into a std 1911 single stack, so far I welded the barrel seat to accommodate a std barrel and the old trigger hole.



This one of the p12 frames I'm working on. All I did so far is weld the barrel seat to accommodate a std nonramped barrel.


And both togather

One is a single stack and the other is a double as you can see


The welds look rough but once I machine the rails to the proper height it will clean up.
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  #165  
Old 03-05-2013, 1:45 PM
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http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=717723

People are not very smart!

-joe
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  #166  
Old 03-05-2013, 3:27 PM
brianbonedoc brianbonedoc is offline
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Joe - great job on welding for std barrel - I think I might try that on my P12 too if yours works out. Did you just TIG in some metal and then plan to adjust the timing later? How about milling in the barrel ramp to the frame? That is a 31 degree angle as I recall.


It's funny I see those $30 Sarco's on eBay for >$80. Pretty funny.

BTW - I just filed down the built in bushings, and tapped for low profile 1911 bushings and that worked out pretty well.
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  #167  
Old 03-05-2013, 4:06 PM
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I posted a link to this thread over there, that really sucks that people are uninformed or just don't pray to the google god often enough to find what they are looking for.
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  #168  
Old 03-05-2013, 4:14 PM
Woody13 Woody13 is online now
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Well thats your opinion and your intitled to it... Your also thread craping and you can sell what you want for how much you want on this site. So either take the link down mr. or we can get the moderators involved.
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  #169  
Old 03-05-2013, 4:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Woody13 View Post
Well thats your opinion and your intitled to it... Your also thread craping and you can sell what you want for how much you want on this site. So either take the link down mr. or we can get the moderators involved.


No I'm not taking any links down. This is a public fourm and I didn't post in your thread, you sir are thread crapping so you can take your pm, your post here and overpriced frames and shove them where the sun don't shine. You are a vulture, and a diaese to this web site. I have broke no rules, So now you can go pound sand.

Thanks for playing
-joe

Last edited by mr.; 03-05-2013 at 4:56 PM.. Reason: Forgot to quote post...
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  #170  
Old 03-05-2013, 4:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianbonedoc View Post
Joe - great job on welding for std barrel - I think I might try that on my P12 too if yours works out. Did you just TIG in some metal and then plan to adjust the timing later? How about milling in the barrel ramp to the frame? That is a 31 degree angle as I recall.


It's funny I see those $30 Sarco's on eBay for >$80. Pretty funny.

BTW - I just filed down the built in bushings, and tapped for low profile 1911 bushings and that worked out pretty well.


I miged the frame and I'll machine it to the proper specs once I get the frame to that operation.

-joe
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  #171  
Old 03-05-2013, 4:47 PM
Hoagiem Hoagiem is offline
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I have seen a lot of questions about the casting throughout this post and I'll try to shed a little light on some of the dimensions on that casting. I have compared this to several 1911 frames and a true factory para. What i came up with for dimensions i used to make the jig I am selling. The oblong hole for the slide stop does not match true 1911 specs, the top is too high, neither does the plunger tube, it is shorter and thicker in the vertical dimension, I didn't bother with the dimension from the frame out because I will indicate that off the frame when I cut the rails, and the mag release is not the same as a 1911. However, all the fire control holes are a match to a 1911 colt frame and a few others, side by side with drill rod in the holes it matches. Now for some dimensions, not sure what the exact dimensions of the oblong hole are yet but, the plunger tube is in the right place, it is thicker than a true 1911 but it is centered properly, so, find the center of that and use it to locate others. The thumb safety holes are where they are supposed to be and the correct radius for all three holes. The casting line where the rails go is true to the horizontal line of the receiver. So, what we have is a grip screw that is dimensionally correct, thumb safety holes that are dimensionally correct, centerline of the plunger tube, there was a slight dip in mine so I used both ends which were 0,0 when I indicated it. We also have the backstrap of the magwell which is at the correct angle. Throw all that on a dro mill and add a couple indicators and a center finder or two and recall all that trig that I am glad I didn't sleep through all of it and several hours of bumping uglies with all that crap and there you have it. A child is born and we are free to exercise our 2nd amendment rights as a free citizen of the USA, for now anyway.

Then after all that I set up the casting in the prototype fixture I made and zeroed off the slide release and set the dimensions for the disconnector hole on top of the frame and guess what, the damn thing was .300" off,..just kidding, without setting the angle for the hole the center finder went in nicely. The hole on mine is undersized so when i get ready to drill it I am going to set the angle and use an endmill to drill it just undersize and finish drill it to size. So, I have given up all I know about this casting and i hope that some of you can use it.

I checked the mainspring housing slots on mine and it is slightly off on the angle for the rails, that would be my fault, I'll own it, didn't check to make sure the fixture was completely secured to the angle plate and it moved ever so slightly, we'll call it custom fitting after the frame and mainspring are blended recontoured and recheckered, might just flatten it all down and mill some snakeskin texture in it.

Along those lines I learned but didn't use it at this point that when there is a critical setup that might move you can lightly lay a finger on the piece you are machining and the part where they intersect and feel for movement, you can feel it long before you see it. Just make sure it is in a safe place or you will run out of fingers, the nerves tend to get all boogered up when your finger stub heals.
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  #172  
Old 03-05-2013, 5:01 PM
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How did you go about the thumb safty under cut? Just a key cutter or did you custom make a tool? Also does the slide lock slot need a under cut on the inside like the thumb safty hole?

Thanks for the Great info bud!
-joe
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  #173  
Old 03-05-2013, 5:06 PM
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Looks good Joe. I am really interested in how the double action will work out. How are you going to cut the trigger track and the trigger shoe slot? You gotta share, come on. I set back a full size frame to a commander length once upon a time and decided i would mill the flat straight down with the frame pointing straight up, BIG MISTAKE, the big azz endmill sucked in and damn near ruined my frame and cost me a butt load for a new endmill. So I went straight in from the top same setup about ten thousandths at a time, slowly. The barrel VIP is a beee otch to cut and I prefer to stay away from that operation, leave it ever so slightly long just in case. If you know all this then just ignore my ramblings.

I won't get all butt hurt like some people do. And I believe that the form of defecating in the previous writings is spelled with two p's, might be wrong though.
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  #174  
Old 03-05-2013, 5:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. View Post
How did you go about the thumb safty under cut? Just a key cutter or did you custom make a tool? Also does the slide lock slot need a under cut on the inside like the thumb safty hole?

Thanks for the Great info bud!
-joe
I think the keyseat would be the way to go. I didnt think of that at the time and just used a dremel from the inside
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  #175  
Old 03-05-2013, 5:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. View Post
How did you go about the thumb safty under cut? Just a key cutter or did you custom make a tool? Also does the slide lock slot need a under cut on the inside like the thumb safty hole?

Thanks for the Great info bud!
-joe
Call me Mark. I made a key seat cutter for the mag release lock slot out of 3/8" drill rod and heat treated the cutter end, I heated it and quenched it and left it hard, I didn't heat the whole thing though, just the cutter end because I didn't want the shaft to be too brittle, it got hot and hard but I don't think it is as brittle as heating up the whole cutter. It went through 17-4 ph stainless twice and I plan on using it again. I have a picture somewhere, I'll try to post it one of these times.

So to answer your question, I am going to make one for the undercut at the thumb safety, I would like to go about 0.100" wide, but that might be a bit much tool pressure for a home made cutter. I plan on using 3/8" drill rod again and making the cutter 0.260", which is what the radius is called out for the undercut.

The slide release doesn't need an undercut, mine had a little casting ridge at the top and a file took care of that. A lot of the frames out now aren't cutting that to the original specs, no forward angle and just cutting through the slide rail and leaving a gap there. that little bit of metal doesn't do a whole lot, I prefer to leave it if it is there but others just machine through it, personal preference really.
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  #176  
Old 03-05-2013, 6:06 PM
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No secrets here mark haha, I'll post when I get back from the store about the trigger area

-joe
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  #177  
Old 03-05-2013, 7:59 PM
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Pound sand sure right in yours where it wont shine with all the other crap you got. Vulture wow those are strong words all because I had a few frames to sell. No its a free forum like you said so I think I will stay, hang out and see where your lame thread goes. Who knows might learn what not to do.
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  #178  
Old 03-05-2013, 8:08 PM
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Quote:
Pound sand sure right in yours where it wont shine with all the other crap you got. Vulture wow those are strong words all because I had a few frames to sell. No its a free forum like you said so I think I will stay, hang out and see where your lame thread goes. Who knows might learn what not to do.


Lol that's hilarious, it's not my thread and like I said before your the one thread crapping.... I wanted to post in your fs thread but I know the market place rules... It's all good on my end, take a seat you might learn sumin and maby instead of selling them at a redickulusly inflated price you can put one togather.

-joe
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  #179  
Old 03-05-2013, 8:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Hoagiem View Post
Call me Mark. I made a key seat cutter for the mag release lock slot out of 3/8" drill rod and heat treated the cutter end, I heated it and quenched it and left it hard, I didn't heat the whole thing though, just the cutter end because I didn't want the shaft to be too brittle, it got hot and hard but I don't think it is as brittle as heating up the whole cutter. It went through 17-4 ph stainless twice and I plan on using it again. I have a picture somewhere, I'll try to post it one of these times.

So to answer your question, I am going to make one for the undercut at the thumb safety, I would like to go about 0.100" wide, but that might be a bit much tool pressure for a home made cutter. I plan on using 3/8" drill rod again and making the cutter 0.260", which is what the radius is called out for the undercut.

The slide release doesn't need an undercut, mine had a little casting ridge at the top and a file took care of that. A lot of the frames out now aren't cutting that to the original specs, no forward angle and just cutting through the slide rail and leaving a gap there. that little bit of metal doesn't do a whole lot, I prefer to leave it if it is there but others just machine through it, personal preference really.
Ive never made my own tools like that yet, I've seen a guy make a pretty cool broaching tool to square up corners. I plan to use 2 diff key cutter to do the trigger on the lda frame. One with it laying flat for the trigger and the other standing upright for the stirup, I appciate all your info this will be my first 1911 build. I have some ares frames coming coming from the first gb if they ever show up. You think you can make a tool for cleaning up the lug area on the type1 sarco slides? It would def be a cheap way to get slides that are already heat treated And most of the way done. There about $25 per, nice for custom serrations and squared up slides.

-joe
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  #180  
Old 03-05-2013, 8:26 PM
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Troll alert!!! Obviously a troll who can't read. I mean really? seriously? let it go man. Sit back and enjoy the ride.
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  #181  
Old 03-05-2013, 8:26 PM
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Joe everything is hilarious in case you cant tell. Post wherever you feel like it really if you think about it why not. I am seated and I will read up because all the redneck language is funny. I am building some well actually three different ones. Nice being retired young so you can build what you want whenever you want. Kind of got tired of building the AR's plus five is enough plus talk about inflated prices now just compare those prices now. So what if you think its really inflated and in fact who cares. **** man lifes to short to loose sleep on it all. I will pay attention to your thread though not because I feel you will teach me to much and I know that because I see your weld and its pretty bad so your going to have a rough time I can tell already...
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  #182  
Old 03-05-2013, 8:29 PM
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Its obvious that's nerves have been touched...can't we all get along....so I can get some more build pics? Anybody got a lead on sear springs BTW?
P.S I'm sooo not a redneck, on the other hand I can't think of anybody better to get my back in the trenches if SHTF. Sorry OP I had to get that off my chest. I'm done.

Last edited by DustyLungzNJ; 03-05-2013 at 8:40 PM..
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  #183  
Old 03-05-2013, 8:47 PM
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DustyLungzNJ man I laughed so hard thanks you are so correct.... Sorry Im done also it made me laugh there is one good redneck every deployment every deployment.
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  #184  
Old 03-05-2013, 8:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody13 View Post
Joe everything is hilarious in case you cant tell. Post wherever you feel like it really if you think about it why not. I am seated and I will read up because all the redneck language is funny. I am building some well actually three different ones. Nice being retired young so you can build what you want whenever you want. Kind of got tired of building the AR's plus five is enough plus talk about inflated prices now just compare those prices now. So what if you think its really inflated and in fact who cares. **** man lifes to short to loose sleep on it all. I will pay attention to your thread though not because I feel you will teach me to much and I know that because I see your weld and its pretty bad so your going to have a rough time I can tell already...
Lol ok buddy, it seems you like to stroke your pecker but I'm not into watching gay porn. Funny you retired early and you got all that time to build ar's, that's cool man one day your going to have to move up from Legos and get creative with k'nex.

This will be the last comment to you, your just plugging up the op thread with being butt hurt and nonsense. Oh and btw I'm not a welder but I play one on the Internet just like you play a fake entrepreneur that builds hella ar's....

Love
-joe
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  #185  
Old 03-05-2013, 9:36 PM
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Ahahaha all that for me huh.



I can search the internet too... Here is one that would match your Virginia.

Last one I swear
-joe
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  #186  
Old 03-05-2013, 9:47 PM
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Thats cute Joe now I know why your so upset. Just didnt know you were into pink guns and all but it does explain all the gay **** you were throwing at me. Nice gun you got there though. Oh I never said I was an entrepreneur just a retired Iraq Vet. Hey let me know if you feel like selling your pink kitty gun though my daughter would love that. Oh the picture I showed you was one of my builds I do still have it. Looks like we could go on all night. Anyways good luck with your weld I mean build sorry.... :12
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  #187  
Old 03-05-2013, 10:14 PM
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Lol, I'm not upset at all. Like I said its all good and yes i could go on all night long =)

Honestly ar's don't take too much to build(other than money) like a bookcase from ikea, seems it takes more skill to keep them clean than to build them. I enjoy building ak's, there much more involved and defenetly one of a kind when finished(especially building from a flat)

I apologize for calling you a vulture, but you do understand where I'm coming from(especially when you threaten to get mods involved). So since that's out of the way maby you should show us your completed or partially completed sarco paperweight? Maby some of your welding skills that are relevant to the topic at hand? I'm tring to show my progress and help out, why don't you do the same... I'm not bragging in this thread about what I can and can't do.

It's the truth the way I see it, what's your point of view?
-joe


Oh and btw thank you for your service

Last edited by mr.; 03-05-2013 at 10:20 PM..
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  #188  
Old 03-06-2013, 2:44 AM
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I would not want to play in the same sandbox with those guys!
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  #189  
Old 03-06-2013, 3:10 AM
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You think you can make a tool for cleaning up the lug area on the type1 sarco slides? It would def be a cheap way to get slides that are already heat treated And most of the way done. There about $25 per, nice for custom serrations and squared up slides.

-joe[/QUOTE]

I have been thinking about that since I read about the slides you said you have. The biggest issue with those cuts are the depth of unsupported tool shaft and the angle of the slide, it has to be 0.87 degrees off horizontal. The cutter has to fit in the slide hole and the shaft has to be large enough to be rigid but small enough for the clearance to allow movement for the cut....this would make a good porn scene... whisper that in the ole ladys ear...but baby my shaft has to be small to fit in your slide hole so I can move it about. And then she says......

Anyway, I was thinking of using a standard keyseat cutter, 3/8 shaft and 5/8 drill rod reamed for the 3/8 shaft. The prints call out a 0.660 cutter. There is a lot of potential for chatter there, horizontal mill is the way to go there, some way to support both ends of the cutter, now there's an idea, adjustable jig that supports the bottom end of the cutter.
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  #190  
Old 03-06-2013, 8:47 AM
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After searching the internet for a couple hours.... I'm kind of worried I won't be able to find a sear spring. It's kinda bumming me out
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  #191  
Old 03-06-2013, 1:16 PM
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Mark, I figure I'd make a fixture that slides into the slide with a keyed shaft and a cutter in the center. Put a hand crank on it and some screws for tension and crank away, haha it's just a idea.



Dusty, what's the differance in the spring? The fingers are the same size correct just need to shorten the bottom and make a bend on it no?
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  #192  
Old 03-06-2013, 1:31 PM
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finger size don't know about that, it sure would help if that's true. As for shortening and bending....when you put it that way.... ummm I guess so
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  #193  
Old 03-06-2013, 1:38 PM
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I am beginning to think I am just going to dump the two I have due to the lack of parts availability and need for a ramped barrel.

Anyone got a line of single stack castings for cheap?
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  #194  
Old 03-06-2013, 1:39 PM
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Lol

Hey mark, is the hole for the mag release in a different spot on the p12 compared to a std 1911? Or can I use my 1911 print I found?

-joe
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  #195  
Old 03-06-2013, 1:53 PM
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Smr, I haven't found a cheap source for singles stack castings(that's why I'm trying to mod the lda frame). The only one I know about is the 17-4 stainless ones in the market place for $100.

-joe
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  #196  
Old 03-06-2013, 7:36 PM
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Mark, you think you an make a quick print of that smith and Alexander msh for me =)

Thanks
-joe
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  #197  
Old 03-06-2013, 8:00 PM
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Lol

Hey mark, is the hole for the mag release in a different spot on the p12 compared to a std 1911? Or can I use my 1911 print I found?

-joe
No it is not in the same location as the standard 1911.
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  #198  
Old 03-06-2013, 8:01 PM
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Mark, you think you an make a quick print of that smith and Alexander msh for me =)

Thanks
-joe
What do you need from the mainspring housing?
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  #199  
Old 03-06-2013, 8:24 PM
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I'm curious if I can mod a Std one to fit the p12 frame(or I can just make one =)). Also you happen to have the demensions for the mag release, std mag release is x1.193+-.002 y-1.095 from slide stop/takedown

-joe
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  #200  
Old 03-06-2013, 8:44 PM
Hoagiem Hoagiem is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. View Post
I'm curious if I can mod a Std one to fit the p12 frame(or I can just make one =)). Also you happen to have the demensions for the mag release, std mag release is x1.193+-.002 y-1.095 from slide stop/takedown

-joe
On the smith mainspring the rail for the mainspring housing intersects the pin at the midpoint. On a standard 1911 this is not the same, you can mod a standard but you will have to move the pin hole out from the mag well back strap to match the standard 1911.
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