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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions

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  #41  
Old 12-12-2012, 8:17 AM
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phrogg111 phrogg111 is offline
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I've done this before! No mill needed. Very much a pain to do, though.

I've milled an 80% aluminum lower on my drill press before, and I've milled an entire single shot 80% pistol from a block of plastic, too. Good stuff!

In addition to the drill press and the jigs to make your gun work, you should really have a caliper, a scribe, the drill bits, and a mill vise.

If you get a metal caliper, it may also work as a scribe. I love my Harbor Freight one.

The mill vise that I bought for my 80% pistol build worked flawlessly. There's one available here for under $40:

http://www.amazon.com/Cross-Slide-Dr...ords=mill+vise

You need to make sure that every single axis is tight, and while it may be slow going, it's worth it. Basically, you don't want to use the mill vise as an actual mill would work - you want to use the mill vise to be able to move your material around without having to unclamp/reclamp it. Bring the bits you use straight down every time. If you need to do a finishing pass to clean it up a bit, that will work (if every axis on the vise is really, really tight). I definitely did a pass to remove material from the hole in the bottom that the trigger goes through.

The bits you need? Drill bits work nicely to remove most of the material, but a 3/8ths bit is necessary for the safety hole.

Also, I went to Lowe's and bought an upspiral 2-flute 1/4" router bit for my build. One bit for one build is a good bet - aluminum dulls the bits really quickly. Delrin (the plastic I was using) doesn't dull them at all, though.

When you're doing the milling itself, the trick is simply to make sure that everything is clamped up as tight as it goes, then to set your depth gauge on your drill press so you can keep stopping the down drill at the same point.

Drill out as much material from the aluminum portion as you can. DO NOT drill the holes too far towards the edges of the fire control group - you can remove more material later, but you cannot put it back later!

Make sure you have your depth set correctly. Don't go down quite all the way with any of the bits - the bottom of the fire control group is 1.25", so only go about 1 1/8th inches instead. The top of the fire control group, where the upper fits in, is at .50", but you can go down to about .65" without problems - so you can set that one for half an inch exactly.

After drilling out as much material as you possibly can, take the router bit, clamp it in, and remove all the little wall parts. Make sure the clamp is tight for this. The mill vise is cheap junk (even though it works), and won't hold tightly at all. Make sure you have it clamped down so far that the wheels don't move with the little knobs on them - you should have to use two fingers for leverage to move those knobs. The router bit should take out all the extra material without a problem. You can go straight down with it and only engage 1/8th of the surface area at the bottom of the bit (take out those extra walls)- should work fine.

All final material should be removed using a rotary tool. Try to fit the hammer in the fire control group and see if it goes in without binding all the way down to the bottom.

Also - make sure you tighten that clamp for the table on the back of this thing REALLY tight. I had problems with the upspiral bits literally pulling the whole table up towards the bits I was working with, so I started using pliers to tighten the heck out of that clamp. Coincidentally, after too much working with it, I stripped the clamp, and now my drill press is roughly useless.

PM me if you want any more tips or pictures.
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Last edited by phrogg111; 12-12-2012 at 8:24 AM..
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  #42  
Old 12-12-2012, 8:18 AM
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phrogg111 phrogg111 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dls View Post
I have a shop with a heavy duty drill press correct vise and table, dermal and two 80% lowers. I love to DIY,build cars, port polish heads, work on all my own stuff... But unless I knew my lowers would turn out as good as my factory ones, I'm not going to use the drill. I wouldn't waste $600-1000 in additional parts including a quality trigger only to put them on an imperfect lower.

I'm waiting for local CNC access.

I would like to see pictures of a Drill press vs CNC lower. Maybe that would encourage me if they looked the same.

In any-case, good luck with the build.
Well, mine was a little ugly from the inside...

but you don't see the inside with the upper on.

I assure you, a drill press would work just fine.
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There is no privilege to keep and bear arms.

Arms are for killing people. All other uses of an arm are illegitimate uses.

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  #43  
Old 12-14-2012, 12:50 AM
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You can do it... Nobody is saying your can't but they are not right and not pretty..... OP go for it...
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  #44  
Old 12-14-2012, 7:43 AM
h0use h0use is offline
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I as well did my first 80% on a drill press took close to 6+ hours. It turned out great! But I would just pay to take to to a build party lol...
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  #45  
Old 12-14-2012, 12:17 PM
klewan klewan is offline
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Get some aluminum the same size as the receiver is thick. Practice on that, find out what works and how repeatable you can make it.There are surplus places you can buy $15 or $20 of stock, regular metal supply has things like a $300 minimum order.

I started out 50 years ago with a hacksaw, vice, and some files. A drill press would have been a revelation. Now I have the vertical mill with a good selection of tooling. Going to a BP would be the quick and cheap way, but you don't learn much pressing the two green start buttons. Just ordered a couple of 80% receivers and will see how a manual mill with a DRO does...

Last edited by klewan; 12-14-2012 at 12:24 PM..
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  #46  
Old 12-14-2012, 7:29 PM
tanakasan tanakasan is offline
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Manual + DRO you will be fine.

I did a couple of Razors that way and am now looking at some TM paperweights just because! Get them while you still can, I can always finish them later. Jig? Who needs a jig?!

Robert
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