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  #1  
Old 12-07-2012, 11:12 AM
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Default VICKERS MMG Build

I am new to Calguns but wanted to share my latest build with everyone. Using a Halo side plate and parts kit from IMA I will restore a Vickers MMG into a semi auto. I have pictures ready to go up just not sure how to post them. Any help with that would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-07-2012, 2:28 PM
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Got the picture thing worked out. This is the parts kit I bought from IMA 3 years ago. Since then it has sat in a box waiting to be built. Then the halo plate joined it along with a tripod.
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Old 12-07-2012, 2:40 PM
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Wow! Very cool. Looking forward to seeing this build.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 12-07-2012, 7:03 PM
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First things first degrease all parts and clean off the old solder on the trunion.
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Old 12-07-2012, 7:11 PM
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Next I clamp the left side plate and new Halo right side plate together on the trunion to start transfering hole locations to the new side plate.
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Old 12-07-2012, 7:14 PM
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By assembling the box and clamping it up I get a much more accurate hole placement.
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Old 12-07-2012, 9:00 PM
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Wow. Cool parts kit. Good luck with the build!
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Old 12-07-2012, 9:16 PM
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Yes!!
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Old 12-07-2012, 9:43 PM
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* subscribing ... Very Cool Build!
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Old 12-07-2012, 9:55 PM
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Default vickers

subscribing .
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  #11  
Old 12-08-2012, 10:28 AM
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Now i start drilling holes
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:30 AM
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original holes are used as guides
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:35 AM
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another view
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:10 AM
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Great kit. Any year on it?

Look forward to watching the progress on this, including a video of the test fire
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:15 AM
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With the top cover in place I start transfering rivet holes that hold the bottom plate and box to the runion.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:19 AM
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Some parts are 42 but I never got around to seeing if I could track the number in the water jacket to see when it was made. I know the smooth water jacket was used as early as 1918. Not sure if this kit goes back that far or not. Any one have any info on tracking these please advise I would love to know when and where it rolled off the production line.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:31 AM
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Here you can see the rivet holes that have been transfered over. Some of the holes rivet holes in the trunion on the right side I do not drill through. Seeing I will not be removing the tunion from the water jacket these holes will not be able to be accessed so I will close those up later in the build.
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  #18  
Old 12-08-2012, 3:17 PM
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Next I drill the holes for the check lever. Two of the four rivet holes are already drilled when you transfer the bottom plate rivet holes. Now you have to drill two larger holes for two pins on the back of the base.
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Old 12-08-2012, 3:18 PM
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This is after I properly locate and drill the two pin holes.
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Old 12-08-2012, 3:24 PM
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Now I can use the check lever base as a guide to drill the top two rivit holes.
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Old 12-08-2012, 6:11 PM
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Next I need to locate the cam position and drill holes to rivet it in place. Halo also made this cam.
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Old 12-08-2012, 6:36 PM
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I get the location to mount the right cam from the placement of the left cam.
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Old 12-08-2012, 6:56 PM
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Here I clamped the cam in position and then tap it into final position.
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Old 12-08-2012, 6:57 PM
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Once in final position I add another clamp to ensure it wont move then I use the cam as a guide to drill the rivet holes for the cam.
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Old 12-09-2012, 7:21 AM
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Absolutly. I am finding alot of DP marked parts that might give me some issues later but am optimistic and will work with what I have for now.
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Old 12-09-2012, 8:20 AM
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Nice work!
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  #27  
Old 12-09-2012, 9:49 AM
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Yes interested in water can
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Old 12-10-2012, 8:19 AM
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Here you can see the material we have to remove from the arms to clear the denial islands. There are 3 islands on the halo plate so I will be machineing the top and bottom of the right arm.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:57 AM
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Here we are machining the arms. Carbide is a must.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:28 PM
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Here are the action arms machined and installed on the barrel. I also installed the lock to ensure everything clears the denial islands.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:32 PM
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Side note on the lock. Due to the manufacturing differences in each Vickers MMG that was produced I decided to have Lonie Ingram convert my lock. He pioneered this system and ensures all locks that he converts work properly before they leave his shop by installing them into his "alpha gun". One less thing to have to worry about on a build like this. In the futrue I will be making a caliber conversion for this gun to 7.62x54r where I will convert a lock myself so you will be able to see the in's and out's of the lock conversion.
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  #32  
Old 12-10-2012, 5:56 PM
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I made up this real quick rivet to hold the fusee cover on so that I could assemble the with pop rivets and start to fit all the internals. Later I will make another one of these that will be longer and extend all the way through side plate and trunnion.
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  #33  
Old 12-10-2012, 6:04 PM
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Everything is moving and sliding well but I found an issue. The front denial island needs to be cut back a little to allow the front of the lock to move upward after the round has been chambered. Knowing this would be an easy fix I decided to move forward with fitting the denial plate and fix the other issue once I pull it all back apart.
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Old 12-11-2012, 3:33 PM
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Let me back up for a second because I missed a very important modification. On the bottom of the lock material must be removed and in the same spot on the arms material must be added so that a full auto lock can not be installed. Here is a finished pisture, sorry I dont have anything in progress I got so into the build I forgot to take pictures. The scribe shows the area that has been filled in with weld and reshaped. The same area on the bottom of the lock has been milled off.
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  #35  
Old 12-11-2012, 3:38 PM
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At this point it time to start fitting the denial plate that sits above the lock. If you have Lonnies conversion kits it will have the sizing plate and the actual denial plate. There are detailed directions so I wont go into huge detail just make sure you check your measurements before you cut anything. The denial plate is what makes it all work and if thats not right it will be a huge pain fixing it.
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Old 12-12-2012, 8:58 AM
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We assembled the gun thus far and then opened the top cover. Measured the distance between the right and left side plate above the lock. This measurement will be transfered to the sizing plate.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:29 PM
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The sizing / alignment plate will be slightly larger that the measurement. You want to take equal ammounts of both side so that the raised portion of the plate stays centered in the box
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:30 PM
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Once the sizing plate fits snug between the two side plate and is centered in the box its time to set the height of the plate. Using a ball of playdough sitting on top of the lock it will act as a spacer that will compress as the top cover is closed.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:33 PM
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Place the allignment plate onto of the playdough. Close the top cover and it will compress the playdough but keep it close to the top cover.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:34 PM
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Once the top cover is closed I used a clamp appling pressure to the allignment plate to keep it in place when I open the top cover back up
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