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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #1  
Old 12-03-2012, 3:52 PM
hoagiejoe hoagiejoe is offline
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Default X-Mark Pro Trigger Advice

I recently purchased my first Remington, a 700 SPS Varmint. I use it only for benchrest paper shooting. The X-Mark Pro seems as though it can be made to work good enough for me. Looks like the only way I can get it down to the pull weight I want is to reduce the huge sear contact patch. The significant hurdle I am facing is that the sear engagement adjustment screw won't budge. Iíve heated it and removed all the glue or whatever was on there but no dice-I'm just twisting allens.

I've decided my options are as follows: 1) get working on filing down the "sear safety cam" which is messed up since the thing is built to be adjusted 2) see if someone can drill out the old screw and tap it. One issue here is that the hole is off-center and there would be almost no meat on the left side 3) use scope money towards an after-market trigger.

Has anyone been down this road?
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  #2  
Old 12-03-2012, 3:54 PM
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HK Dave HK Dave is offline
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I'm curious about this myself...

I'm also curious as to whether this trigger can worked to be very crisp with a low pull weight, but still be safe.

I know GAP uses these triggers with great success... so i imagine it can be done.
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  #3  
Old 12-03-2012, 5:47 PM
damon1272 damon1272 is offline
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I have been down this road. I installed a jewel. Fixed the problem right up. No matter what the trigger will be good enough.
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  #4  
Old 12-03-2012, 5:57 PM
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I ditched mine for a Timney. The X-Mark Pro is a lawyer proof trigger.
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  #5  
Old 12-03-2012, 5:58 PM
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I love my Timney, was just curious if the X-Mark Pro could be made to be as crisp and light.
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...Slow, deep breath in followed by two quick, shallow exhales, then one long breath out. It should sound like "HEE HEE HOOOOOOOOooooooo...HEE HEE HOOOOOOOOooooooo". Once your comfortable with that breathing pattern, try to sync the tempo up with your heart rate. "Lub-dub...HEE HEE HOOOOOOOOooooooo... etc". ~ CBruce
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  #6  
Old 12-03-2012, 7:35 PM
hoagiejoe hoagiejoe is offline
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Sorry if you already are familiar with this.
Here you can see in the little round window the amount the trigger has to move. The rear screw (if it moved) pushes the trigger forward, reducing the overlap:


Here is the "sear safety cam", with the contact area circled. It is a fairly nice part. The edge where the break occurs could be filed and polished smoother:


Lastly, here is the seemingly hopeless off-center screw:

There are springs available that supposedly lighten the front adjustment screw, against which the trigger apparently pushes. Research indicates a replacement spring may reduce pull by about 1lb with some break-in. This one breaks at about 3 3/4lbs. I also read at least one person was able to turn the screw.

So, to me this looks like a smart design that gives flexibility for different types of shooting. If only that filthy screw would turn! By the way, the piece the screw passes through is stationary and the fact it protrudes into the housing (due to the poor drilling) doesn't affect anything.

I gotta tell ya, I'm a bit obsessed with this although I'm sure the advice to purchase one of the aftermarket choices will save me a lot of time and probably money.
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  #7  
Old 12-03-2012, 7:36 PM
dfletcher dfletcher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoagiejoe View Post
I recently purchased my first Remington, a 700 SPS Varmint. I use it only for benchrest paper shooting. The X-Mark Pro seems as though it can be made to work good enough for me. Looks like the only way I can get it down to the pull weight I want is to reduce the huge sear contact patch. The significant hurdle I am facing is that the sear engagement adjustment screw won't budge. I’ve heated it and removed all the glue or whatever was on there but no dice-I'm just twisting allens.

I've decided my options are as follows: 1) get working on filing down the "sear safety cam" which is messed up since the thing is built to be adjusted 2) see if someone can drill out the old screw and tap it. One issue here is that the hole is off-center and there would be almost no meat on the left side 3) use scope money towards an after-market trigger.

Has anyone been down this road?
The X Mark trigger is thread locked (maybe purple or red, not too sure) well down the shaft of the sear adjustment screw. You've just got to apply heat to the correct "not so general" area of the trigger housing and when the material is sufficiently heated you'll get a little puff of smoke. I've done a few of them and my habit is to put the proper sized allen wrench into the screw and as heat is applied give it a little wiggle to get it loosened up.

If you can't loosen by heating it, buy an aftermarket type. But heating should work.

Last edited by dfletcher; 12-03-2012 at 7:38 PM..
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  #8  
Old 12-03-2012, 8:07 PM
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I bought an timney for 109 shipped and will sell my x mark for 55 on eBay.
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  #9  
Old 12-03-2012, 8:11 PM
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The X-Mark sells for $55 on ebay?! If that is true, I'll always change out to Timney!
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...Slow, deep breath in followed by two quick, shallow exhales, then one long breath out. It should sound like "HEE HEE HOOOOOOOOooooooo...HEE HEE HOOOOOOOOooooooo". Once your comfortable with that breathing pattern, try to sync the tempo up with your heart rate. "Lub-dub...HEE HEE HOOOOOOOOooooooo... etc". ~ CBruce
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  #10  
Old 12-03-2012, 8:13 PM
hoagiejoe hoagiejoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfletcher View Post
The X Mark trigger is thread locked (maybe purple or red, not too sure) well down the shaft of the sear adjustment screw. You've just got to apply heat to the correct "not so general" area of the trigger housing and when the material is sufficiently heated you'll get a little puff of smoke. I've done a few of them and my habit is to put the proper sized allen wrench into the screw and as heat is applied give it a little wiggle to get it loosened up.

If you can't loosen by heating it, buy an aftermarket type. But heating should work.
Thanks dfletcher! I've got a good soldering torch that should do the trick. If I do get it loose, I may back it all the way out to clean it up and then thread it back in with a tiny amount of blue loctite
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  #11  
Old 12-03-2012, 8:32 PM
hoagiejoe hoagiejoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoagiejoe View Post
Thanks dfletcher! I've got a good soldering torch that should do the trick. If I do get it loose, I may back it all the way out to clean it up and then thread it back in with a tiny amount of blue loctite
Success already! I'm going to do a little polishing, then some trial and error and report back hopefully within the next couple of days. I've got some good triggers for comparison so I should be able to give reasonable feedback. I'm sure I'll buy a much better trigger down the road but tinkering is too much fun not to try to get this working as best as I can. Thanks to all for your suggestions!
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  #12  
Old 12-03-2012, 9:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HK Dave View Post
The X-Mark sells for $55 on ebay?! If that is true, I'll always change out to Timney!
Just checked ebay. Asking $60. Actually being sold for $20-30.
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  #13  
Old 12-03-2012, 9:32 PM
hoagiejoe hoagiejoe is offline
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Update: I placed a file on a flat surface of my vice and got the so called "sear safety cam" square, then put some 600 grit sandpaper on that same flat surface to polish it. I made a pre-assembly pin to hold the sear and sear spring together when reinstalling the trigger assembly (and realized after it wasn't necessary), attached the trigger assembly to the rifle, then made some adjustments to the sear adjustment screw. I just picked a spot that looked good and was getting a consistent 1 lb 5oz pull weight (with my digital fish scale) . Of course I had to mess with the pull-weight screw and now it is less consistent. I think I'm far enough along I can call it a night, especially since I didn't take note of how the bolt release spring is attached.
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  #14  
Old 12-03-2012, 9:34 PM
hoagiejoe hoagiejoe is offline
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Maybe I need to buy vintagearms' trigger for some more tinkerin'!
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  #15  
Old 12-04-2012, 11:57 AM
hoagiejoe hoagiejoe is offline
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When I posted this video I saw that some others are out there. I tried to get it adjusted at 1 1/2 lbs for comparison with the lightest settings of aftermarket triggers. The weights I mention in the video are off a little (see my comments below the video). I will probably set it at about 2lbs for the range. It looks like the threshold for my rifle is about 1 1/2 lbs before it gets dangerous. I saw another video that said below 2lbs is the danger territory. As I have been working on this I am learning that a lot of people have experimented with this trigger but going through this exercise I am getting a great understanding of it.

http://youtu.be/NtwT852_5kM
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