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  #1  
Old 02-10-2012, 8:59 PM
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Justintoxicated Justintoxicated is offline
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Default I Want to finish my M1 Garand Stock

I want to do a tung oil finish on my Service Grade Special M1 Garand.

It has a new production walnut stock.

I have never used Tung Oil before, so I'm looking for a video or site that explains the process well.

I have a pint of Hope's 100% Pure Tung oil.

thx.
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  #2  
Old 02-10-2012, 9:54 PM
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Do some searching in YouTube and you will find all kinds of methods.
This one kind of shows the steps needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqKzUGkiue0

I too finished my new production walnut stock (DuPage) using pure Tung oil.
Here are my steps:
1) hand polish the stock using 0000 steel wool (some people prefer 200,400,600 grit sandpaper) be careful not to roundoff the sharp corners and edges of the stock.
2) remove all dust from the stock, use shop air and a tack cloth.
3) apply a generous amount of tung oil to the stock in sections and rub in until it is absorbed into the wood grain (see above video).
4) allow oil to soak for 20-30 minutes and then wipe off the excess.
5) allow oil to cure for 24 hours

repeat steps 3 thru 5 three to five times depending on how you like the end product to look.

Here are a couple of pictures of the SG M1 I just did.

Rb.
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2012, 10:32 PM
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Done the same process on about 7 stocks now and it comes out great. You can cut the first coat with 50% PTO and 50% mineral spirits/turpentine to help it penetrate. I always just wear rubber gloves, rub it in by hand then wipe it off with a lint free rag after a while. I would get as much oil off the stock as possible so you aren't building up a finish on top of the wood vs getting the oil to penetrate. If you see any gloss building up you can knock it down with 0000 steel wool before a coat.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:43 PM
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Rb.
Beautiful!
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2012, 11:48 PM
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I bought some 0000 Steel wool. An I plan to pickup some latex rubber gloves since I'm all out. I do have an air compressor, will microfiber work for a lint free rag?

Sounds Like I should mix the Tung and minieral spirits in a plastic container?

Should I completely take down and remove all metal from the stock first including the ferrules?

I have a workbench but is this going to be super messy?

How do lave the pieces to dry?

Those are beautiful pictures BTW.

I have watched that youtube video before but hes not even using tung oil, it looks like he is applying mineral oil... most other videos show to to apply tun oil finish, not tung oil...
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:56 PM
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Here's a thread I started about stock refinishing.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...d.php?t=296275
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2012, 9:35 AM
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Thanks for the comment on the pictures.
The guy in the video is using mineral oil (you can read the bottle) but the process he is using is correct.
The PTO (Pure Tung Oil) I use from "The Real Milk Paint Co." http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html is a very light amber color.
Latex gloves are OK to use, but some people prefer to apply pure Tung oil with the bare hand, it gives you a little more control over the application.
Pure Tung oil is food safe after it cures (it can be used on cutting boards) but some people have allergic reactions to it during bare hand application.
You have to dispose of the rags you use in a fire proof container or a bucket of water since there is the danger of spontaneous combustion, read section 4 of the MSDS http://www.realmilkpaint.com/msds_tungoil.html .
Cutting the first application 50-50 with mineral spirits is good since it helps the penetration, only mix what you will be using for that application.
I do take the action out of the stock and remove the hand guards since I also finish the inside of the stock and hand guards.
I do remove the butt plate and rear sling swivel, but usually leave the rest of the metal in place.
I tape off the remaining metal with painters "blue" tape prior to applying the PTO since there is a risk of damaging the rear hand guard when you remove and reinstall the hand guard clip.
The process of applying PTO is not very messy since you will be applying just a small amount of it at a time and rubbing it into the wood (like applying suntan or sun screen to your skin), but you should protect your work bench with old newspapers/plastic bag/whatever in case of spills.
I use stiff wire to hang the stock pieces to dry (old clothes hanger wire will work).

Member ColdDeadHands1's thread is very good, you should read it.

Don't forget to post pictures, we love pictures!!!

Rb.
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2012, 10:18 AM
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I took a read on it last night. I guess I would hand rub in the tung oil with 0000 steel wool then? Then wipe it down while still wet with a microfiber cloth.

It does not sound too hard at all then. Just time consuming.
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:31 PM
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I just hand rub the Tung oil with a clean lint free rag.
And then yes, wipe down the excess after letting it soak for 20-30 minutes.
Yes, it is time consuming, but remember all good things are worth waiting for.

Rb.
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Old 02-11-2012, 1:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustybore View Post
Here are a couple of pictures of the SG M1 I just did.

Rb.

That came out beautiful looking.


I did my M14 stock with BLO, working with progressively finer sandpaper I brought the stock down to fresh wood, and then rubbed the BLO into the wood each day for a week, prepping with steel wool between coats, and hung it to dry, then a couple times a week. Finally I did three coats of Tom's 1/3 mix and buffed it smooth. First time refinishing a stock and I was pretty happy with how it turned out, although when I do my M1 stock I'll be looking for a much more deep red color...

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Old 02-11-2012, 3:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT1 View Post
......although when I do my M1 stock I'll be looking for a much more deep red color...
If you want that deep reddish brown color on original M1 stocks, use Fiebings "professional oil" leather dye in dark brown, then do the rub down routine with BLO or TO.

[IMG][/IMG]


hth

Last edited by sofbak; 02-11-2012 at 3:06 PM.. Reason: correct dye product name
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2012, 5:15 PM
EricClay EricClay is offline
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Here is a basic write up on one way to refinish a stock.

[M1 Garand Stock Refinishing]

Eric
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Old 02-11-2012, 6:15 PM
sofbak sofbak is offline
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There was some very good info in that finishing article about the oil types and characteristics. One thing I have never been able to find is how long it usually takes for the linolenic acid in the raw linseed oil to darken the wood.

For those of us who don't want to wait, the Fiebings does work.

Also never heard of the orange oil use. I might try this on my next project

thanx for the link!
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Old 02-12-2012, 1:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
There was some very good info in that finishing article about the oil types and characteristics. One thing I have never been able to find is how long it usually takes for the linolenic acid in the raw linseed oil to darken the wood.
This depends mostly on temperature and time. What I've seen is an initial color shift within about six months for raw linseed oil that is an initial yellow/orange-ish color shift (on white test paper). On walnut the color accents the natural red hues. As for how long to get the total oxidized red? Probably many many years.

If you want quick color then the dye's are the way to go.

Eric
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Old 02-12-2012, 1:59 PM
EricClay EricClay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Also never heard of the orange oil use. I might try this on my next project

thanx for the link!
Orange oil works great and is a natural product. Smells good too! It's also known as d-Limonene which is a terpene.

Eric
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Old 02-15-2012, 4:02 PM
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Should I sand the stock down before I start finishing it?
This is a new production Walnut CMP stock.

I was also reading that I should de-wisker the wood first?

I was reading about it here.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/show....php?p=4282787

I tested the oil out on some scrap pieces of mahogany and it brought out the details in the wood, but nothing like many of the pictures I see in the tutorials.
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Old 02-15-2012, 6:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
If you want that deep reddish brown color on original M1 stocks, use Fiebings "professional oil" leather dye in dark brown, then do the rub down routine with BLO or TO.

[IMG][/IMG]


hth
Nice Garand collection! What do you use for the muzzle dust caps?
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Old 02-15-2012, 6:56 PM
Sailormilan2 Sailormilan2 is offline
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USGI stock. Cleaned in the dishwasher, then further cleaned with oxalic acid wood bleach. Finished with BLO. Color change after 4 years.


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