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  #1  
Old 02-09-2012, 11:03 PM
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Question Do you Bell .223/5.56 casings?

Just received my 1st reloading press kit today. I got the Dillion RL 550B, also purchased the .223/5.56 dies and such. I've been seeing alot about belling out casings before seating in the bullet. My die doesn't bell the casing it just crushes the shoulder. I crushed 4 or 5 casings to get it just right so that it doesn't crush at all but if I give 1/16 turn I'm sure it will start. I was just wondering if .223 and/or 5.56 casing needed to be belled, sorry if this is a stupid question but this is the 1st time I've owned and put together my own setup.

Am I missing something or do I need to adjust something to bell the case? Is it supposed to bell in the powder die?

Thank you!

Last edited by SpaceMan; 02-09-2012 at 11:29 PM..
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  #2  
Old 02-10-2012, 3:41 AM
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As long as you chamfer the case mouth, you should not have to bell it. I suppose you can, but then you would also need a crimp die as well.
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  #3  
Old 02-10-2012, 5:46 AM
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Are you sure it's just not to much lube on your casing. If you are applying to much lube it will look you are crushing the shoulders and put little flutters on them? I believe all pistol casings need to be belled but never heard of rifle casings needing it.


I could be wrong.
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Last edited by 5.56Geo; 02-10-2012 at 5:50 AM..
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  #4  
Old 02-10-2012, 6:27 AM
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The powder drop is not suppose to bell.
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  #5  
Old 02-10-2012, 6:31 AM
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The sizing die will expand the case mouth. The powder drop is just a funnel.
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Old 02-10-2012, 6:45 AM
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Bottleneck cases do not get belled. If you have(and you should) a reloading manual(I suggest Lyman #49) it will explain this and many other things for you. The Dillon machine used a belling /powder funnel for straight wall cases. For bottle neck cases it is only designed as a funnel. You cannot bell with it on bottleneck cases. If you try you will crush the shoulder. You need to readjust the die per Dillon instructions as you have the die set too low.
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  #7  
Old 02-10-2012, 6:59 AM
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one reason to only buy boat tailed projectiles.. not that the bullet flies farther or better, but because you need not chamfer the case mouth when seating since the boat tail lends itself to loading easier/faster.
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Old 02-10-2012, 7:10 AM
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I think it needs to be stressed here (from personal experience) that it is of the utmost importance to get your case prep down to a science. The cases need to be cleaned, lubed, case formed, trimmed to length (1.250), and if using military brass, the primer pocket swaged, and finally washed of all the lube.

Personally, I have a tool block set up in my 550 with only the case form die, run through all the cases with that die only, then trimmed to length on a Geraud trimmer (which also chamfers and deburs), swaged on a Dillon swager, washed, and finally back to the powder, seating, and crimping dies.

Rifle cases are a lot of work, but once you have a system down, it can go pretty fast, I can completely prep about 3000 cases in 6 hours or so. (after tumbling).

Trimming to length is very important, I found this out the hard way
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Old 02-10-2012, 8:52 AM
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None of the dillon dies I purchased do any resizing, station 1 deprimes, station 2 powder drop, station 3 seats, and station 4 crimps. The deprime die says resizing die on the die but it just has a depriming tool inside and nothing else.

My Lyman Manuel comes in next week with my tumbler and other supply's I ordered from another company. My goal is to have everything setup when that comes in so I can start reloading the next day. And the die is set fine it doesn't crush at its current setting.

So what's the verdict here? Am I missing a die? I'll have to buy another die for resizing/reforming/chamfer the case or is the dillon 1200B case trimer all I need?
I can't just clean (and trim if necessary) and just run it through the press as it is now?

Last edited by SpaceMan; 02-10-2012 at 9:04 AM..
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceMan View Post

So what's the verdict here? Am I missing a die? I'll have to buy another die for resizing/reforming/chamfer the case or is the dillon 1200B case trimer all I need?
I can't just clean (and trim if necessary) and just run it through the press as it is now?
You probably need to set the reforming die further down, basically until it is only a few thou from bottoming out on the caliber plate. The instruction sheet should explain how to do this.

Here is what your die should look like-



This is the forming die / de-primer taken apart-





And assembled-



Hope this helps, it might not look like there is anything in there to "form" the case, but there is. Also, if you are using new brass, it may not be moving any metal, so it won't seem like its doing anything.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceMan View Post
None of the dillon dies I purchased do any resizing, station 1 deprimes, station 2 powder drop, station 3 seats, and station 4 crimps. The deprime die says resizing die on the die but it just has a depriming tool inside and nothing else.

My Lyman Manuel comes in next week with my tumbler and other supply's I ordered from another company. My goal is to have everything setup when that comes in so I can start reloading the next day. And the die is set fine it doesn't crush at its current setting.

So what's the verdict here? Am I missing a die? I'll have to buy another die for resizing/reforming/chamfer the case or is the dillon 1200B case trimer all I need?
I can't just clean (and trim if necessary) and just run it through the press as it is now?
If you don't have your sizing die setup how were you crushing the shoulders?

You need to resize the cases. If you are shooting them out of an auto or more then one rifle you will need to full length resize. Some will say if you are shooting out of an auto you should use small base dies, but I have never had a problem using a standard full length resizing die. Usually the resizing die will also decap. I don't have any Dillon dies but they should come with instructions on how to set them up.

I think most of your questions will be answered when you get your manual.

Last edited by pepsi2451; 02-10-2012 at 11:17 AM..
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2012, 12:49 PM
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I have the instructions but I just looked at some YouTube videos on puttin it together. I'm going to assume that I need to lower the decaping/sizing die down a little more. It pops out the primer but that's it. I haven't got my case lube yet that's coming with my other shipment that's on it's way. I just ran a couple casings through the powder die and decap to make sure it took out the primer and was opening the powder bar.

The powder die was what was crushing the casings because it was too low when I was adjusting to the right height which is no longer crushing anything since.

I think I got this situated but I'll wait for the case lube befor I start adjusting the resizing die.

Thank you everyone for the input!!! When Monday comes I'll have my lube and other supplies and will also look into the instructions and lymans manual. I'll post a new thread if I have any trouble.

Thanks again,
-Nicholas

*********Ran down to my uncles house and grabbed his case lube, my decaping/depriming/resizing die was too high, problem solved!!!!!*********

Last edited by SpaceMan; 02-10-2012 at 1:16 PM..
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2012, 2:35 PM
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Spaceman, I live in Rancho and am using just the same setup. I can come over and give you some tips if you would like.

PM me if interested.
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  #14  
Old 02-10-2012, 2:47 PM
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use boattail bullets
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2012, 5:43 PM
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Late to the game here but NO, no belling is needed for rifle cases.

If you trim the cases it is always a good idea to chamfer the case mouth inside to remove trimmer burr/edge. Boat tails will seat pretty well even without chamfer but better to do so anyway, flat base will always require chamfer to seat well, if at all.

A very shallow angle reamer can be used to provide a very gentle leade in for flat base bullets. The reamer I use is from Lyman and is called the "VLD Reamer", it has a 17 degree leade angle versus the 30-45 degree leade angle on typical case mouth de-burring tools.

I use it for all my match grade bullets, boat tail or flat base, as it provides a very nice bullet seating experience for me, the press AND the bullet
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Old 02-11-2012, 2:06 AM
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Your Resize/Deprime die should be set AS LOW AS IT CAN PHYSICALLY GO. It's a full-length sizing operation because of your semi-auto operation; you WANT full length sizing on this.

Bust out your case trimmer and trim them up after the FL Sizing. Part of the trimming process is Chamfer and Deburring. Don't do these so hard that you make your case mouth into a circular knife (seriously, there will be blood). This has the double benefit of ensuring a good case length, AND making all your brass uniform.

There is no belling; that's a straightwall case technique. It makes seating possible since there's no neck sizing process like there would be on a necked cartridge.

Your powder die is funnel-only (as others have stated). Just make sure it's aligned well and is at a good height to make use of its funnely powers.

The final tricky bit for you will be the seat and crimp (DO NOT run this die down as low as it can go, this isn't that kind of die). Many people here advise that no crimp is needed, and for a .223/5.56, i'm inclined to agree. To get an idea for seating depth, spin the seating plunger up really high after mounting the die, put a complete cartridge in your shellholder run it up into the die, then screw the plunger down onto the bullet of the complete cartridge by hand. Run a reloaded round through, check for OAL using your calipers, adjust the die as needed. You're looking to get the seat depth on a single run through the seating die, not successive passes.
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