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  #1  
Old 03-26-2007, 3:52 PM
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Solidsnake87 Solidsnake87 is offline
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Default Questions about some old revolvers

Hey guys, I have these two revolvers laying around that I really don't know much about. I inherited them from my grandmother. On says Iver Johnson on the barrel and the other is labelled .44 British Bulldog. I had them inpected at a local gunshop and the guy said they appeared to be in working order and were timed correctly. Both are double action revolvers. I think the Iver johnson is .25 cal. I was just wondering the value of these pistols. The bulldog is missing the part that prevent the bullets from falling out of the cylinder but is in operational condition. The lanyards on them were just to hold them in the picture fame they were originally inside.




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Old 03-26-2007, 4:26 PM
tombkeeper tombkeeper is offline
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I may have the part you need, pm me when you get a chance.
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Old 03-27-2007, 12:17 AM
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Here's a little of my googlefu
The IJ looks like the 6469
Here
http://www.armchairgunshow.com/pocketDA-info.html
Second in this picture
http://www.armchairgunshow.com/image...6808-ha253.jpg

Here's some more IJ info from
http://www.empirearms.com/pre-1899.htm
Iver Johnson top break revolvers. Special thanks to Ben Sansing ( swsansing@juno.com ) for the following Iver Johnson information:

There were three main models of Iver Johnson "Safety" topbreak revolvers. 1st & 2nd Model
revolvers were built for black powder cartridges only. Continued use of higher pressure smokeless in
these revolvers will result in them shooting loose, getting out of time, and parts breakage.

[Editor’s note: So if you want to shoot smokeless in a pre-1899 IJ revolvers, you must handload
cartridges to match the lower black powder pressure. Use extreme caution and err on the side of lower
pressure when working up a load.]

The 3rd Model was especially beefed-up, redesigned, and "fortified" for use with smokeless powder
and is fine for modern factory ammo. Alas, only 1st (all) & 2nd (some) Model revolvers fall into the
legal Antique category.

1st Model (1894-1896): SINGLE-POST top latch; leaf springs;
cylinder "free-wheeling" when at rest

2nd Model (1897-1908): DOUBLE-POST top latch; leaf springs;
cylinder "free-wheeling" when at rest

3rd Model (1909-1941): DOUBLE-POST top latch; COIL springs;
cylinder locked when at rest

If you've determined, from the above characteristics, that you have a 2nd Model IJ revolver, here's
how to determine whether it was made before 1899 (and thus a legal antique) or not. Fortunately, Iver
Johnson built revolvers by the "batch" system, and only changed & upgraded their guns once a year,
so it is quite easy to determine whether an IJ is antique or not, just by cursory examination. In only
*one* case (.32 small frame *hammer* model) does the serial number need to be checked. In other
cases, you can "tell at a glance" once you know what to look for.

Pre-1899 2nd Model guns will exhibit the following
characteristics:

Large frame (.38) HAMMERLESS: Separate hammer shroud on
frame (shroud not integral with frame)

Small Frame (.32) HAMMERLESS: Separate hammer shroud on
frame (shroud not integral with frame)

Note: Integral frame w/shroud introduced start of 1899
production

Large frame (.38) hammer: Patent dates on top rib of BARREL

Small Frame (.32) hammer: Patent dates on top rib of BARREL, *AND* must check serial number
prefix (left side of grip strap underneath grip - yes, you must remove the grips for this one):
A = 1897; E = 1898; F = 1899. The easy way to remember: If it has an 'F' it FLUNKS the Antique
Test.

Note 1: Patent dates moved from top rib of barrel at start of 1899 production.

Note 2: All .22 rimfire IJ topbreak revolvers are post-1898 (The .22 chambering began in 1901).


IJ Serial # info
http://armscollectors.com/srs/lookup_ijohnson.php

The Bulldog looks kinda like a First Pattern Webley like here
http://members.aol.com/hrftx/TBBD.htm
http://members.aol.com/hrftx/1stMod.htm

The missing part would be the gate, maybe also a screw or pin to hold it.

If you get more info on the markings, Manuf, Year, Serial other #'s or proofs and caliber markings; maybe you can narrow it down further.

Good luck, finding info about old guns can be tough.
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