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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #1  
Old 01-26-2012, 8:01 PM
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Default How to neutralize corrosive ammo fouling

I just got a new S&W upper in 5.45x39 because the idea of shooting really cheap ammo was definitely appealing. So what's the best way to clean an AR afterwards? Does it need to be done immediately? Should I run patches through the barrel at the range? What products should I use? The barrel and BCG are chrome-lined.
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Old 01-26-2012, 8:09 PM
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Use water, no it does not need to be immediate, but dont forget about it.
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Old 01-26-2012, 8:15 PM
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Windex.

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Old 01-26-2012, 8:20 PM
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I have over 12k rounds thru my ak74 of surplus in 7months and I dont clean it at all! I have minimal rust in spots and thats it.
Id think an ar would be mire resilliant to rust
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Old 01-26-2012, 8:21 PM
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Default ummm

windex
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Old 01-26-2012, 8:23 PM
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Water.
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Old 01-26-2012, 8:24 PM
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Hot water.
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Old 01-26-2012, 8:31 PM
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I have the same upper.I suggest boiling a pot of water and pouring it all through the Barrel, chamber and bolt carrier.I have frozen mine shut from not cleaning between trips.
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Old 01-26-2012, 8:32 PM
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I always hear a good thing to do is to create mix of 90% water and 10% Ballistol. Ballistol emulsifies with the water so when the water dries up after cleaning, you have the Ballistol left over to protect the gun from rust.
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Old 01-27-2012, 5:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorenut View Post
I always hear a good thing to do is to create mix of 90% water and 10% Ballistol. Ballistol emulsifies with the water so when the water dries up after cleaning, you have the Ballistol left over to protect the gun from rust.
This is the method I use and it works beautifully.

One thing to note about corrosive ammo is that it isn't really corrosive in and of itself. It isn't like an acid that's going to eat away at your rifle.
Corrosive ammo has certain salts in the chemicals used to make the primer.
These salts absorb moisture from the air and the moisture is what causes the corrosion.

The speed of progression and amount of corrosion that results is mostly going to depend on the environment in which the gun is stored.
I live in the desert and if I forget to clean my guns for a day or two, it's no big deal. The air is very dry and corrosion will take a while to set in.

The OP on the other hand, lives in San Francisco where humidity can get quite high. It probably isn't necessary to flush out the bore at the range, but it would be wise to do it as soon as possible after returning home.
Don't put it off until tomorrow.

Nothing on earth will neutralize the salts. The only thing you can do is dissolve them and flush them away. Water works perfectly for this but water can cause corrosion as well if left standing. Hot water evaporates more quickly which is why many recommend it. But hot water is not as convenient as a pre-mixed spray bottle of Ballistol and water.

Last edited by PhantomII; 01-27-2012 at 5:41 AM..
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  #11  
Old 01-27-2012, 6:15 AM
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Run HOT water through the whole gun then use WD40!
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2012, 6:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhantomII View Post
This is the method I use and it works beautifully.

One thing to note about corrosive ammo is that it isn't really corrosive in and of itself. It isn't like an acid that's going to eat away at your rifle.
Corrosive ammo has certain salts in the chemicals used to make the primer.
These salts absorb moisture from the air and the moisture is what causes the corrosion.

The speed of progression and amount of corrosion that results is mostly going to depend on the environment in which the gun is stored.
I live in the desert and if I forget to clean my guns for a day or two, it's no big deal. The air is very dry and corrosion will take a while to set in.

The OP on the other hand, lives in San Francisco where humidity can get quite high. It probably isn't necessary to flush out the bore at the range, but it would be wise to do it as soon as possible after returning home.
Don't put it off until tomorrow.

Nothing on earth will neutralize the salts. The only thing you can do is dissolve them and flush them away. Water works perfectly for this but water can cause corrosion as well if left standing. Hot water evaporates more quickly which is why many recommend it. But hot water is not as convenient as a pre-mixed spray bottle of Ballistol and water.
^^^^This is the best advice in this thread. Follow it.
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2012, 7:41 AM
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good info, looking at a similar upper
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  #14  
Old 01-27-2012, 8:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalK9.com View Post
I have over 12k rounds thru my ak74 of surplus in 7months and I dont clean it at all! I have minimal rust in spots and thats it.
Id think an ar would be mire resilliant to rust
glass surface under a microscope



Ammonia cleaning solutions like windex will clean copper deposits but you shouldn't leave them to dry.

Another thing you can do to prevent corrosion is to add packets of dessicant to your rifle cases and ammo supply to remove moisture. You will commonly see them packaged like this in food stuffs.

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Old 01-27-2012, 9:44 AM
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To add to the post above. I use these as they are reusable. Just throw 'em in the oven to dry them out and they are good to go again.

http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1500D-...ef=pd_sim_hg_7
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  #16  
Old 01-27-2012, 10:48 AM
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So I'm assuming that the hot water goes through before the official cleaning. Then the Hoppes and such?
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Old 01-27-2012, 10:52 AM
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I use hot soapy water and then rinse. Follow it by your routine cleaning scedule. I run a patch or two down the barrel afterwards and then apply a bit of oil. No rust yet and its well worth the ammo savings.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Luv4SF View Post
So I'm assuming that the hot water goes through before the official cleaning. Then the Hoppes and such?
Yes, hot water first, then clean accordingly. I use barely any hoppes, mainly for a single sweep of the barrel with a bore snake. I've read excessive amounts of hoppes is detrimental to chrome lined barrels. Over cleaning and incorrect cleaning can drastically reduce the life span of your barrel.

I have a sink in my garage which helps, but a bathtub is fine if your wife isn't gonna freak out. I strip down the AK, throw the internals into the sink, the muzzle break too, angle my AK muzzle down into the sink and pour (hot boiled water from an electric kettle) down through the receiver, barrel and gas tube. After the hot water I usually use a throw-away rag to wipe off excess water, which picks up a lot of carbon and dirt, then douse my AKs with Rem Oil or CLP, then wipe that excess lube off. I will usually double check my gas tube and swab it out. If I'm on a mission, I can do this all within 15 minutes.

I've been considering a 7.62 or a 5.45 upper as well, but hmmm
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
I've read excessive amounts of hoppes is detrimental to chrome lined barrels.
Interesting..........I wonder why.


Great info in this thread, I use boiling water then Hoppes. I use Windex too.

On windows.
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Old 01-27-2012, 12:35 PM
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For those that shoot corrosive ammo I wonder if the Slip 2000 weapons lube (not EWL just std. lube) could act as a rust preventive. That would be a nice preservative for the rifle, clean it and lube it w/ Slip 2000 and shoot corrosive ammo and not worry? Maybe?
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  #21  
Old 01-27-2012, 1:20 PM
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I bought a couple cases of WW2 GI bore cleaner. This is the non smelly stuff. Works like a charm on corrosive fouling. No need to resort to water. It is sometimes for sale on gunbroker.
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Old 01-27-2012, 1:47 PM
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Electric tea kettles work wonders for this job. Once dry I clean and oil as normal
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Old 01-27-2012, 3:16 PM
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Speaking of the gas tube, is it important to clean on an AR that's shooting corrosive ammo? I've never cleaned my gas tubes before but then I've never shot corrosive ammo either.
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Old 01-27-2012, 3:32 PM
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Im concerned about dunking an sks bolt in water. I can wipe off the surface, but how do I make sure water doesn't sit inside the internals and crevices. I would be more concerned about water caused rust, then corrosive ammo.
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Old 01-27-2012, 3:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smle-man View Post
I bought a couple cases of WW2 GI bore cleaner. This is the non smelly stuff. Works like a charm on corrosive fouling. No need to resort to water. It is sometimes for sale on gunbroker.
If you can tolerate the righteous stench the other stuff is even better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Luv4SF View Post
Speaking of the gas tube, is it important to clean on an AR that's shooting corrosive ammo? I've never cleaned my gas tubes before but then I've never shot corrosive ammo either.
Your gas tube is stainless steel. Shouldn't be a problem.

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Im concerned about dunking an sks bolt in water. I can wipe off the surface, but how do I make sure water doesn't sit inside the internals and crevices. I would be more concerned about water caused rust, then corrosive ammo.
If you don't have an air compressor get some of the canned air for cleaning computer components...or disassemble your bolt.
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Old 01-27-2012, 3:54 PM
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Hey! Why didn't I think if that. My other hobby besides guns is computer hardware.
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Old 01-27-2012, 3:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wikioutdoor View Post
glass surface under a microscope



Ammonia cleaning solutions like windex will clean copper deposits but you shouldn't leave them to dry.

Another thing you can do to prevent corrosion is to add packets of dessicant to your rifle cases and ammo supply to remove moisture. You will commonly see them packaged like this in food stuffs.

If you are going to use this type of dessicant pack inside your rifle case, do not, DO NOT, do not.....let it touch or rest against any metallic part of your rifle. The dessicant packs attract moisture, the silica gel becomes highly corrosive, and will literally melt into the metal. HTH c good
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Old 01-27-2012, 3:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyZ View Post
To add to the post above. I use these as they are reusable. Just throw 'em in the oven to dry them out and they are good to go again.

http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1500D-...ef=pd_sim_hg_7
This style of dessicant is much better.
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Old 01-27-2012, 4:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighead View Post
I have the same upper.I suggest boiling a pot of water and pouring it all through the Barrel, chamber and bolt carrier.I have frozen mine shut from not cleaning between trips.
This is good info, but I go a little further. Before leaving the range I remove the bolt carrier and spray it plus the trigger group and barrel with Windex.

When I get home I use the bighead method. Plus regular cleaning I have the same AR as the op.
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Old 01-27-2012, 5:25 PM
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Quote:
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I've read excessive amounts of hoppes is detrimental to chrome lined barrels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by paul0660 View Post
Interesting..........I wonder why.


Great info in this thread, I use boiling water then Hoppes. I use Windex too.

On windows.
The reason Hoppes is detrimental to chrome lined barrels is that it contains ammonia. Or at least it used to. They may have discontinued adding it.

Ammonia was added as a copper solvent, but unfortunately ammonia is also a chromium solvent and can cause pitting and cracking in the bore of a chrome lined barrel. It then seeps into the cracks and begins to eat at the chrome from underneath, causing it to flake off.

Windex has even more ammonia but for reasons beyond me, people still think it's a good thing to use on a rifle barrel.
Windex DOES remove copper fouling but there are better gun cleaning solvents available that aren't so corrosive.

The only component in Windex that helps with corrosive ammunition is the water.
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Old 01-27-2012, 7:18 PM
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What's the "bighead method"? Sounds cool.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorenut View Post
I always hear a good thing to do is to create mix of 90% water and 10% Ballistol. Ballistol emulsifies with the water so when the water dries up after cleaning, you have the Ballistol left over to protect the gun from rust.
FTW
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Old 01-28-2012, 1:00 PM
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Actualy, heat does cause salt to dissolve.It breaks down the bonds that make the salt solid and the water washes it away.
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Old 01-28-2012, 1:13 PM
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Quote:
The reason Hoppes is detrimental to chrome lined barrels is that it contains ammonia. Or at least it used to. They may have discontinued adding it.
I googled a little bit on this, and realized the rest of my afternoon would be shot. #9 may or may not have ammonia OR ammonium compounds in it, which may or may not affect chrome, but certainly affects nickel.

I am satisfied with my hot water/ hoppes routine on bolt guns. If I were shooting corrosive out of a semiauto, I think I would still be looking for an option.
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Old 01-28-2012, 1:20 PM
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From what Im told by a chem engineer, ammonia will nuetralize salt, but I dont know how it will effect the other materials of the rifle.
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