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Rimfire Firearms .22, .17 and other Rimfire Handguns and Rifles

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  #1  
Old 11-30-2011, 2:18 AM
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Default ARGH Ruger 22/45 problem

Okay, so I tried to break down my 22/45 for the first time for cleaning. I kinda skimmed over the manual where it was saying that it was designed to be disassembled without tools... but you may want to have a rubber mallet and wooden dowel handy...

Seriously? A mallet and dowel?

Anyway, I tried to disassemble it without said ridiculous tools... and got stuck. Right at the point where the manual said a rubber mallet and dowel could be helpful.

I put it back together, but it's not right.. pulling back the slide just doesn't work right, it gets caught at one point while pulling it back and another while trying to let it go forward.

Soooo... does anyone know of anywhere I can take this to get it fixed up and possibly have someone show me what the correct way to strip it is? I've never encountered a weapon that needed tools before in order to break it down, so this is all new to me...

And, hopefully this place where I can take it not only won't want too much money to help me out, but they'll be near Burbank... I know, I'm not looking for much, am I? *grin*
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Old 11-30-2011, 2:43 AM
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I'm honestly afraid to try now, as I'm not sure if it's cocked or not since I pushed the lever back in and tried the bolt... I can't dry fire it one way or another, and the manual specifically states that it needs to be uncocked... even if I got a rubber mallet and a dowel to whack out the thing that holds the bolt in after I've unlatched it, I'm afraid of the damage that could occur if it is cocked...
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Old 11-30-2011, 5:39 AM
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It's fine, but you do need the mallet and dowel. You didn't break any thing. You just put it back together wrong.
The first time I put my mkIII back together, I had to put the parts in a box and leave it over night. I almost cried about it. After doing it dozens if times it gets easier.
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:17 AM
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HA, Welcome to Ruger 22/45 ownership! You didn't break anything,and you don't need to take it anywhere. Just take it apart and put it back together again.

There are some good Youtube videos on re-assembling these monsters.

I love my little Ruger, but it tends to be pretty dirty most of the time for this reason.

If you do it regularly, it's not that bad. (I don't do it regularly.)
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:19 AM
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hmmm it specifically says that it needs to be uncocked in order to disassemble it, yet since I pulled the bolt back, not realizing how messed up it was, I have to assume it's cocked... this won't hurt it?
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:30 AM
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I started to take mine apart and ran into the same problem so stopped. Will require more attention at a later date.
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Old 11-30-2011, 8:32 AM
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Are all the 22/45 pistols MKIII or are there some MKII models? Where are ya located near, maybe someone nearby can help ya out if one of the many Youtube videos cannot. The bolt isn't coming all the way back because the hammer strut is out of place usually. You should still be able to rotate the mainspring housing out ward and reinsert it while aligning the strut up correctly and get it back together easy enough.
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Old 11-30-2011, 8:40 AM
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Yes, there are 22/45 MKII's as well. The only difference(well, besides the loaded chamber indicator and I think the legal safety text nonsense on the side) is the magazine disconnect so you don't have to insert a magazine to pull the trigger when stripping/assembling it. The rest of the nonsense(banging on it with a rubber mallet when it gets stuck, cartwheels to get things to fall into place) are still the same.
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:01 PM
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Relax it's an easy fix. All you need to do is remove the take down pin again and slide your upper assembly off again and start over. You simply missed a step of tilting the gun up or down when you put it back together. I did this same thing probably 100 times with mine and never broke anything. It's actually very easy to take these apart once you learn how. YouTube is your friend!
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Old 11-30-2011, 6:29 PM
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Quick disassembly and reassembly 0f Ruger 22/45 MK3

.Insert empty clip, cock and pull trigger.
.Hammer must be up.
(down, horizontal is cocked)
.Remove magazine.
.Remove bolt stop.
.Remove bolt.
. Tap frame directly below barrel.

Assembly.

.Hammer must be horizontal.
.Place barrel on frame.
.Tap rear of frame forward.
.Slide bolt in.
.Insert magazine point gun down and pull trigger.
.Push hammer all the way forward.
.Insert bolt stop.
.Turn muzzle up and pull trigger.
.Close bolt stop as far as it will go.
.Release trigger, remove Magazine close bolt stop.
DONE
Print this and keep it on your bench for future use. I've been in your exact shoes. You can fix it by following these steps.
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Old 11-30-2011, 6:40 PM
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Great.

So, I went out and bought a wooden dowel, a rubber mallet, and a small vice with rubber covers for the jaws that I could vacuum stick to my kitchen table... I wasn't able to figure out how, exactly, I could hold the weapon, hold the dowel, and hit it with a mallet with only two hands, so a vice seemed the way to go.

Problem is, now I can't even get as far as I did before... while I can still pop open the housing latch on the mainspring housing, I can't swing the housing itself out far enough to even attempt to remove it, dowel or no.

Sooooo... back to where I was. Does anyone know of any gunsmiths in or around the Burbank area that might be willing to help, hopefully for a not-outrageous fee...?
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Old 11-30-2011, 6:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucktooth7 View Post
Quick disassembly and reassembly 0f Ruger 22/45 MK3

.Insert empty clip, cock and pull trigger.
.Hammer must be up.
(down, horizontal is cocked)
.Remove magazine.
.Remove bolt stop.
.Remove bolt.
While I can get a magazine in the pistol, it doesn't slide in smoothly like it used to, I have to push it.

I can pull the slide back a little bit and it stops... if I pull a bit harder, I can pull it all the way back, where it stays open.

I can lower the bolt stop, but the bolt won't go forward. I have to push it.

Pulling the trigger doesn't do anything.

To remove the magazine, I have to grab it and pull it out... they don't drop free anymore.

AARRGGHH!!! Who the hell designs a freaking HANDGUN that needs TOOLS to take apart?!?!?!
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Old 11-30-2011, 6:52 PM
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Forget the tools, the only tool you really need is a small screw driver to start to remove the bolt stop as it is hard on your finger nail and then again to push the hammer all the way forward . no mallet or dowel!
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Old 11-30-2011, 6:57 PM
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What you need to do at this point is put the Mag in and point muzzle up and pull trigger.drop the mag and see if the bolt stop will pull back out. If it doesn't try pointing the muzzle down and try it with the mag in and out. Push the mag stop down from the top with your thumb. No Hammers! No great force needed
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:06 PM
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Once you get it field stripped again follow the assembly instructions. When you get to the part .Push the hammer all the way forward. Look at the bottom of the hammer. The Hammer strut (vertical thin metal strip) should be centered in the housing so when inserting the bolt stop , the bolt stop will straddle the strut.
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bucktooth7 View Post
Once you get it field stripped again follow the assembly instructions.
Problem is, I never got it field stripped the first time, and now I can't even get as far as I could before! I'm uploading a video to youtube showing what's going on, I'll post the link in a minute when it's ready...
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:14 PM
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Okay, here's a video showing what's going on...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeJvv-t0B3Y
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:31 PM
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Wow great video. It's a classic problem. Insert the mag point muzzle up and pull trigger. try to swing mains spring housing = (bolt stop) out. If it won't if it won't swing out pull the mag out and see if it will swing out.

If not insert mag and point muzzle down and do same. One way or the other I forget witch, the main spring housing will just swing out and the you can easily push it down and out of the hole in the back of the receiver.

Slide the bolt out. then follow the dissasembly instructions
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucktooth7 View Post
Wow great video. It's a classic problem. Insert the mag point muzzle up and pull trigger. try to swing mains spring housing = (bolt stop) out. If it won't if it won't swing out pull the mag out and see if it will swing out.

If not insert mag and point muzzle down and do same. One way or the other I forget witch, the main spring housing will just swing out and the you can easily push it down and out of the hole in the back of the receiver.

Slide the bolt out. then follow the dissasembly instructions
Try to swing it out with the magazine IN? I'll give it a shot... tie for dinner right now though (gotta work tonight...)
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:39 PM
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untill you are taking full overhand swings with a 2x4 to get it apart you dont know what 22/45 fustration is...
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Old 11-30-2011, 7:43 PM
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Over all remain calm, I freaked out when this happened to me and I thought more force was needed. using mallet and dowel the rear site leaf got broken. Don't go there! Ruger sent me a new one free.
Play with it some more tomorrow and I'm sure you will master it.
If you are still having a problem PM me. ED
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Old 11-30-2011, 8:54 PM
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I've been thinking about this some more and I think the awnser is to pull the trigger and point the muzzle down allowing the hammer to fall forward. Try this with and with out the mag and I think the mainspring housing (bolt stop) will swing out and when pulled down is easily removed.
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Old 11-30-2011, 9:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucktooth7 View Post
Wow great video. It's a classic problem. Insert the mag point muzzle up and pull trigger. try to swing mains spring housing = (bolt stop) out. If it won't if it won't swing out pull the mag out and see if it will swing out.

If not insert mag and point muzzle down and do same. One way or the other I forget witch, the main spring housing will just swing out and the you can easily push it down and out of the hole in the back of the receiver.

Slide the bolt out. then follow the dissasembly instructions
Couldn't unlatch the mainspring housing with a mag in, so I unlatched it first and then tried options... no luck...
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Old 11-30-2011, 9:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucktooth7 View Post
I've been thinking about this some more and I think the awnser is to pull the trigger and point the muzzle down allowing the hammer to fall forward. Try this with and with out the mag and I think the mainspring housing (bolt stop) will swing out and when pulled down is easily removed.
Tried this too, to no avail.

Seriously... this kind of thing would have weighted seriously on my decision to purchase if I had known... this is just poor design!
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Old 11-30-2011, 9:05 PM
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Here's the best video that I use for my Ruger Mark III.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYHJm2P4kP0
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Old 11-30-2011, 9:09 PM
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Here's the best video that I use for my Ruger Mark III.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYHJm2P4kP0
I can't get past about 0:44 in that video...
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Agent Akin View Post
Okay, here's a video showing what's going on...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeJvv-t0B3Y
I can't say for sure since it's hard to tell by watching a video, but you aren't applying enough force to pull that mainspring housing out. It looks like you were just using finger pressure, and that's not going to work. Force the MSH to swivel out, then pull it free from the receiver. It's not going to come out by wiggling it with your fingers(and don't go smacking on the pin with a dowel until you get that MSH swiveled out of the frame).
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:38 AM
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http://guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm

solution #2

Your hammer strut probably wasn't lined up right when you reassemble previously, so causing the hammer to bind a bit. The whack should help it move.
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Old 12-01-2011, 3:16 AM
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Everything points to a misalignment of the hammer strut with the mainspring housing with the strut sounding like it's wedged or locked in a spot where it blocks the mainspring from swinging out. You will need to jar the hammer strut loose first. Get the pistol in the condition where the hammer would normally fall.....put the empty mag in the pistol (so the trigger will activated the sear), pull the trigger and while squeezing the trigger aim the gun downward and slightly behind you (so gravity will help pull the hammer forward), Then give the back of the bolt a few light sharp taps to hopefully free the hammer and strut up.

If the hammer goes forward/the strut gets free, you should be able to get the mainspring housing open again and then attempt to close it again while properly aligning the strut with the housing.

I wouldn't mind a shot at getting it working for ya if you aren't too far from La Puente.
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Old 12-01-2011, 4:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon View Post
Everything points to a misalignment of the hammer strut with the mainspring housing with the strut sounding like it's wedged or locked in a spot where it blocks the mainspring from swinging out. You will need to jar the hammer strut loose first. Get the pistol in the condition where the hammer would normally fall.....put the empty mag in the pistol (so the trigger will activated the sear), pull the trigger and while squeezing the trigger aim the gun downward and slightly behind you (so gravity will help pull the hammer forward), Then give the back of the bolt a few light sharp taps to hopefully free the hammer and strut up.

If the hammer goes forward/the strut gets free, you should be able to get the mainspring housing open again and then attempt to close it again while properly aligning the strut with the housing.
I'm no Ruger expert, but I agree here. That hammer strut is problematic and I've had my own issues with it getting jammed up behind a frame cross pin (mark 3 stainless hunter) and once it got stuck up at the other extreme and I needed to free it up with some pliers- it scratched up the strut pretty good too. I think Sheldon is right and that strut must be jammed in the wrong position and getting that hammer forward is imperative. Unfortunately, if the strut is "captive" and the hammer won't move at all, I doubt if you'll be able to easily remove the mainspring housing. If you can't get it free, I would try a phone call to Ruger and see if they can help. The last resort wold be to take it to a gunsmith. In my case, I was lucky enough to be able to remove the mainspring housing again and see where the strut was jammed. Looking at your video, since you can move the housing out a little, you might be able to gently tap on the pin that goes through the bolt and receiver and see if it moves. Gently would be the key here though because you wouldn't want to bend the hammer strut if it's truly jammed in there.

If you end up taking it to a gunsmith, after it's repaired, you might want to consider having him/her install a Majestic Arms "speed strip" kit. This allows you to remove the bolt in a matter of seconds without removing the mainspring housing so that you can clean the bolt and barrel. It also includes a new hammer and bushing that eliminates the magazine safety and they claim that it drops the trigger pull somewhat (I'm not sure of this claim since I had previously installed the Volquartsen accurizing kit-it does have a slightly different feel than the Volquartsen hammer though). There are many that have the speed strip kit and use it to clean the bolt and barrel, then they simply use a spray cleaner/lube such as CLP or the Hornady One Shot on the lower. This seems to clean it well enough and then leaves just enough lube behind to do the job. My speed strip kit is kind of newly installed and I've only used it once, but it's easy and I plan to use it for routine cleaning and then do the full field strip only periodically, say every 5 or 10 shooting sessions.

I hope this helps, and I just say be careful and don't hit anything too hard and don't force things to hard. If you can't get that hammer forward, I would seek out a professional.
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Old 12-01-2011, 3:13 PM
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You won't get anywhere unless you remove the bolt stop/mainspring/takedown pin or whatever you want to call it. You don't need a vise or dowel, at most a rubber mallet might be easier if you don't have much upper body strength. I wish I was standing next to you so I could help you out in person

I mean that in a non creepy way lol
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Old 12-01-2011, 3:35 PM
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Oh my GOD but this thing is annoying! I haven't really had time to play with it (working a siteen hour day after like five hours sleep) but this morning when I got home I picked it up and tried it again just for the hell of it... mind you, past night no matter how hard I pulled I couldn't swing out the mainspr
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Old 12-01-2011, 4:26 PM
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WEll is it fixed?
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  #34  
Old 12-01-2011, 4:35 PM
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WTH iPhone fail... what I typed was that the mainspring housing freely rotated out and the whole assembly dropped right out, without me even pressing on that pin, let alone using a mallet and dowel. The bolt came out after that...

Haven't had time to play with it beyond that, I'll clean it up Friday afternoon after I wake up and then try to reassemble it...

So, apparently, the 22/45 is a very temperamental design...

Anyway, thanks for the help and advice!
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  #35  
Old 12-01-2011, 5:04 PM
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Ok so you got the mainspring assembly out then? The part that you might need the rubber mallet for is taking the upper assembly/barrel off of the grip frame after removing the bolt. You shouldnt need to smack anything to do with the mainspring housing.

The Ruger design is very simple, you just need to practice and make sure you dont miss any steps. I cant tell you how many people I have seen struggle to get a 1911 put back together, and thats even easier
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  #36  
Old 12-01-2011, 5:06 PM
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Also sounds like the hammer strut was in the wrong spot last time you were fiddling with it and you must have been holding it just right to get it back enough to get the mainspring housing out.

The hammer strut is really the only "tricky" part about the Rugers.
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  #37  
Old 12-01-2011, 5:19 PM
Sheldon Sheldon is offline
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Ha....it fell loose on its own!!
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  #38  
Old 12-01-2011, 5:59 PM
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All right!. Since you now have it field stripped you might as well clean it a little. Have you fired it yet? I like Hopes #9 , but all the others work good too. .
..


Assembly.


.
.
.Place barrel on frame.
.Tap rear of frame forward.
.Slide bolt in.
.Insert magazine point gun down and pull trigger.
.Push hammer all the way forward.
" BE SURE THE HAMMER STRUT IS CENTERED IN THE HOUSING"
.Insert bolt stop.
.Turn muzzle up and pull trigger.
.Close bolt stop as far as it will go.
.Release trigger, remove Magazine close bolt stop.

My ruger .22 is one of my favorite pistols and definitly the most accurate. It likes the Blazer ammo and a brick can be had for less than $20 on sale. I find the Federal and Remington bulk packs not worth buying as every mag will have some that FTF.
You will come to love this gun and most likely own it a long time!
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  #39  
Old 12-02-2011, 2:44 AM
Les K Les K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucktooth7 View Post

My ruger .22 is one of my favorite pistols and definitly the most accurate. It likes the Blazer ammo and a brick can be had for less than $20 on sale. I find the Federal and Remington bulk packs not worth buying as every mag will have some that FTF.
You will come to love this gun and most likely own it a long time!
I agree for sure! Mine loves the cheap and very reliable Blazer and had all kinds of duds with Federal. I haven't spent any money on Remington and never will just on reputation alone. I also just tried a box of the Winchester 333 value pack and had numerous duds. It fed fine, but a number just didn't go off and had to be reloaded. I'll stick with CCI, mostly Blazers, but I'll splurge once in awhile on the Mini Mags too. I'll search around to try a box of ultra accurate match ammo too just to try it and see if it buys me more bullseyes.
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  #40  
Old 12-03-2011, 1:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucktooth7 View Post
All right!. Since you now have it field stripped you might as well clean it a little. Have you fired it yet? I like Hopes #9 , but all the others work good too.
Aye, it was broken in thoroughly at a range party...that's why I was trying to strip it down in the first place.

I always use Hoppes #9, and Break Free CLP afterwards... but I've been so busy that I haven't even touched it since the damn mainspring housing nearly fell out on its own. Might not be able to get back to it until Monday... busy weekend!
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