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  #1  
Old 10-18-2011, 11:55 AM
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Default Sad Day.. Need a pistol corpse identified..

Found in my Friend's shed in a soggy leather holster. It says SW on the Grip, Small bore, I'd say .22, Maybe .32? Top break. 6 or 5 Shot, Can't tell. Rusted Solid. But Trigger and hammer are in decent condition and cylinder isnt rusted to the frame, But won't rotate. Sorry for bad pics





How much $$$ Would it cost to get it restored, let alone firing? He's intrested in doing so.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:10 PM
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It's all going to depend on how far down the rust has penetrated the metal. I'd soak it in CLR remover (Calcium, Lime Rust) with hot hot water 50/50 for 20 minutes and see how much comes off and what you might be left with. My guess as of right now is the cost of the project would outweigh getting a new gun.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gadsdenarmory View Post
It's all going to depend on how far down the rust has penetrated the metal. I'd soak it in CLR remover (Calcium, Lime Rust) with hot hot water 50/50 for 20 minutes and see how much comes off and what you might be left with. My guess as of right now is the cost of the project would outweigh getting a new gun.
I think the same, But it was his Grandfathers.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:19 PM
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Make sure you have an expert look at it to make sure it isn't anything valuable before trying to restore it.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:19 PM
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You have nothing to lose by trying but don't expect much. It looks toasted.

After a soak in CLR i'd submerge it in Kroil and then steel wool it. Good luck.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:22 PM
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Well then get to work. I've used CLR to restore my grandfather's old Penn fishing reels with great success; including one that looked much like that gun. It's one of my best reels now. You never know what condition the metal is underneath that crap, and good ol' American products can surprise you. If it has sentimental value then obviously the effort can be worth it. I'm in the process of repairing my great-grandfathers side-by-side to shooting condition. Just tell him to not get disheartened if it turns out it can only be a wall hanger.
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Old 10-18-2011, 1:22 PM
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It's hard to tell without bigger pictures, but it sure looks like one of the "lemon squeezers" - but I don't know enough about them to say which one. I know that squared back of the trigger guard is one of the telling characteristics for which model it is. I also know that the place to go to find the gurus of S&W top break revolvers is here: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-antiques/
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Old 10-18-2011, 1:26 PM
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Tagging, if you restore this, document it, it'd be cool to see.
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Old 10-18-2011, 2:25 PM
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it looks like a .32 Double Action I can't tell which model due to the condition but in fine condition they run about $350 unless its a 1st model which is kind or rare and could bring a lot more, since it has a S&W logo on the grips, you can probably elminate it as being a 1st model which means its worth almost nothing in its current condition.
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Old 10-18-2011, 3:26 PM
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Get off the big chunks then go the electrolis route. You can research it here or on the web.
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Old 10-18-2011, 5:57 PM
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Well I guess that CLR and water 50/50 would be fast, I'd think you would want to avoid an acid (but what do I know?). I would use Evapo-rust. I've had good results with misc small stuff. Non acidic and non toxic. Good luck, hope you succeed bringing it back from the brink.
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Old 10-18-2011, 6:02 PM
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Paging Ajax22 to the white courtesy please, Ajax22 to the white courtesy please.
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Old 10-18-2011, 7:38 PM
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Seems your buddy should have thought of Grandpa's gun a bit sooner. Bummer. Hope you can help salvage something out of it.
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Old 10-18-2011, 7:39 PM
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Got it in CLR and Hot water right now, I'm trying to get the action to open, Maybe get the trigger to move? Gonna be a long night
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:25 PM
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Update? I'm burning the midnight oil and I need entertainment.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:34 PM
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If you get to the steel wool part, don't use steel wool. Use bronze wool and Kroil. The steel will leave tiny ferrous particles embedded in the gun which will subsequently rust again.

Ace Hardware carries the bronze wool.

Also, following the initial CLR treatment, submerge that sucker in Kroil for several days at least. Don't try to force the trigger or cylinder now or remove any screws just yet. Let it soak, then gently work it. Take your time, don't be in a hurry.

It took years to rust like that. Take a few weeks to soak it and clean it.

Good luck!
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadsdenarmory View Post
Update? I'm burning the midnight oil and I need entertainment.
Most of the rust dosent seem to be pretty bad, It has gunk from the holster on it as well. I originally thought it was blued, After some CLR and Scrubbing, It looks like it was Nickel once upon a time.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:00 AM
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If that's the case the nickel might have helped preserve the gun. Post some updated pics. Also, I like the difference between this post and 1 in the hand gun forum. Slightly different attitudes between us collectors and them, huh?
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:27 AM
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tag. curious on the end result
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Old 10-19-2011, 1:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadsdenarmory View Post
If that's the case the nickel might have helped preserve the gun. Post some updated pics. Also, I like the difference between this post and 1 in the hand gun forum. Slightly different attitudes between us collectors and them, huh?
Indeed. I'll throw up some updated pics later today when I pull it out of the CLR and give it a second scrubbing
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Old 10-19-2011, 1:45 AM
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I'd follow up the CLR treatment like ColdDeadHands1 recommended.
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Old 10-19-2011, 8:50 AM
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Might check with a local Plating Company for advice. They may even have a process to help you remove the rust. Worth a phone call. Best wishes. Dave
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Old 10-19-2011, 9:24 AM
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subscribed
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:02 AM
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UPDATE: After a night in CLR, I've got the trigger and hammer to move. Works DA and SA. Most rust is ontop of the barrel and action, so I have yet to get it open. However, There is a small B under the cylinder on the right side. What could this mean? No warnings/serial, Either. Pics soon.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:13 AM
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http://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Rus.../dp/B001BO1DGY
I have seen this stuff used to restore rusted out shotguns, It does wonders and doesn't use acid.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:19 AM
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The serial number should be stamped in a bunch of different spots with the largest one being on the butt.

I believe this is a .32 Double Action 4th or 5th model so the range should be 434406 to 282999 for the 4th model and 28300 to 327641 for the 5th model

My SCSW indicates that about 239,600 4th models were made between 1883 and 1909
the production figures for the 5th model are listed at 44,461 made between 1909 and 1919
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurac View Post
The serial number should be stamped in a bunch of different spots with the largest one being on the butt.

I believe this is a .32 Double Action 4th or 5th model so the range should be 434406 to 282999 for the 4th model and 28300 to 327641 for the 5th model

My SCSW indicates that about 239,600 4th models were made between 1883 and 1909
the production figures for the 5th model are listed at 44,461 made between 1909 and 1919
I thought the 4th & 5th models had more rounded trigger guards, like this one:
http://www.cabelas.com/sale-rack-smi...32-s-w-1.shtml
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:38 AM
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Bad photo of the B mark, It's a B with a star above it.


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Old 10-19-2011, 11:06 AM
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wow thats a massive turn around, it looks good, well better then it was before!
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:08 AM
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Can you confirm the caliber? Maybe try to compare the bore to a 38 bullet? That trigger guard just doesn't seem to look like the pictures of the 32 DAs that I'm finding. It does look like a 4th model 38 DA.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:14 AM
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Take the grips off, see what the main spring looks like. You are doing a great job. This is the reason I joined CALGUNS. With your hard work, knowledge and advice from other members, you may be able to get that gun shooting. Good work.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:29 AM
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Take the grips off, see what the main spring looks like. You are doing a great job. This is the reason I joined CALGUNS. With your hard work, knowledge and advice from other members, you may be able to get that gun shooting. Good work.
How would I do that? The metal.. Inserts in the grip look rusted/gunky. I do want to get them off though.
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Old 10-19-2011, 1:59 PM
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Is the cylinder turning?
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Old 10-19-2011, 2:02 PM
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Is the cylinder turning?
Not yet. Hammer isn't locking back either. The mechanism to open the gun is pretty damn sealed shut.
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Old 10-19-2011, 2:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billybob_jcv View Post
I thought the 4th & 5th models had more rounded trigger guards, like this one:
http://www.cabelas.com/sale-rack-smi...32-s-w-1.shtml
That would be a .32 safety Hammerless, similar but different.


I think a serial number will probably have to determine which model this one is though

Last edited by kurac; 10-19-2011 at 2:14 PM..
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Old 10-19-2011, 2:53 PM
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Now it actually looks like a gun. Keep it up.
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It's an HK, I could lube it with sand and superglue and it'd work just fine.
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Old 10-19-2011, 3:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurac View Post
That would be a .32 safety Hammerless, similar but different.


I think a serial number will probably have to determine which model this one is though
Ahh - right! Sorry - my bad! How about this one? It's listed as a "S&W 4TH MODEL 32 DOUBLE ACTION"



Hmm - trigger still doesn't seem to look like the OP's example.
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Last edited by billybob_jcv; 10-19-2011 at 3:24 PM..
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Old 10-19-2011, 3:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadsdenarmory View Post
Now it actually looks like a gun. Keep it up.
You can bet I will
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Old 10-19-2011, 4:33 PM
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I'm just saying you might want to see if it's loaded. I'm sure it's not.
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Old 10-19-2011, 4:39 PM
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NO kind of a Safety Hammerless or "Lemon Squeezer"--has a hammer and no grip safety.
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