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  #1  
Old 08-10-2011, 5:27 PM
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Default Heat Treating AK Receiver ?

Do I need to use oil,
Or can I use water ?
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Old 08-10-2011, 5:28 PM
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You can use oil or Soap with salt I believe.
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Old 08-10-2011, 5:47 PM
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http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting...uts2/index.asp
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Old 08-10-2011, 6:45 PM
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The brine solution big ron linked you to is actually the recipe we use at build parties. It's good stuff, but will usually cause some rusting if you don't apply a finish soon after.

I actually prefer oil quench. It just makes a righteous mess when 30+ people are doing it.
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Old 08-10-2011, 6:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tujungatoes View Post
I actually prefer oil quench. It just makes a righteous mess when 30+ people are doing it.
same here, i make a mess all by myself tho. if you dont have a bucket full of old motor oil you can use the method linked above, ive used vegetable oil also , before i had spare motor oil sitting in the garage.
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Old 08-10-2011, 7:29 PM
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double post

Last edited by general_disarray_prk; 08-10-2011 at 7:34 PM.. Reason: Double post
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Old 08-10-2011, 7:29 PM
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Hi Hylander!

My vote is for Brine Water, and here's why -

In short, oil likes to hide in the space between both trunnions and the folded flat.

Oil likes to "bloom" out from these two spots, and if you're planning on Spray Painting your flat, or coating your flat w/ Cerakote or Durakote, you will have to add a lot of extra cleaning steps to ensure getting it all out. Spray Paint & Coatings don't stick to oil....

I use Cerakote, and I abrasive blast immediately before coating, so the light surface rust from the brine water isn't an issue for me - it's basted off...

HTH -

Last edited by general_disarray_prk; 08-10-2011 at 7:42 PM..
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Old 08-10-2011, 8:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hylander View Post
Do I need to use oil,
Or can I use water ?
Or you can have it done professionally for around $15.00 a piece when you have 4 or more receivers to treat in a batch. Turnaround time is 1-2 days. I asked for a final hardness on my AK-Builder flats of 40-42 HRC, the same as Nodak Spud receivers and in the same range of hardness as axes, cold chisels and hammer faces. It's not terribly hard, but it is tough which is exactly what's needed. If you are worried about wear on the ejector, you can harden with a torch, quench in oil or brine and then normalize to achieve final hardness in the 50-55 range, but for a useful life already likely in excess of 100K rounds, it's probably not necessary, 40-42 HRC is good enough.

This last batch of 1 mm receivers I had contemplated adding some screws through the axis pins, trunnion holes and center support holes with some hand-tight nuts to act as a brace to reduce warping, but I doubt it will be much of an issue. The 1.5 mm Yugo receivers don't appear to have warped at all. I provided a ruined receiver to help dial-in the process for a given alloy (4140 on the AK builder flats) and it's been right both times.

PM me for details. I don't want to post the vendors name without permission to do so.

R
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Old 08-10-2011, 8:49 PM
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I used some used tranny fluid I found in the garage... dumped it into a paint roller tin and quenched. No problems and my ak's run great...
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Old 08-10-2011, 9:46 PM
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Well I had my last oil change still in the garage, so I used that
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Old 08-11-2011, 3:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by general_disarray_prk View Post
Hi Hylander!

My vote is for Brine Water, and here's why -

In short, oil likes to hide in the space between both trunnions and the folded flat.

Oil likes to "bloom" out from these two spots, and if you're planning on Spray Painting your flat, or coating your flat w/ Cerakote or Durakote, you will have to add a lot of extra cleaning steps to ensure getting it all out. Spray Paint & Coatings don't stick to oil....

I use Cerakote, and I abrasive blast immediately before coating, so the light surface rust from the brine water isn't an issue for me - it's basted off...

HTH -
^^This^^

Heat caused seeping oil out of pores after a perfect paint job (during baking) is a real bummer.

But I've found if guys don't rinse the salts out before park it affects the final (parkerizing) finish.

After blasting but before park tank it is recommended to hose down with brake spray to remove all oils. That seems to "wash" the salts out of the hiding places and leaves streaks of white in the finished park where salt residue was left.

Justin
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  #12  
Old 08-11-2011, 8:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by general_disarray_prk View Post
Hi Hylander!

My vote is for Brine Water, and here's why -

In short, oil likes to hide in the space between both trunnions and the folded flat.

Oil likes to "bloom" out from these two spots, and if you're planning on Spray Painting your flat, or coating your flat w/ Cerakote or Durakote, you will have to add a lot of extra cleaning steps to ensure getting it all out. Spray Paint & Coatings don't stick to oil....

I use Cerakote, and I abrasive blast immediately before coating, so the light surface rust from the brine water isn't an issue for me - it's basted off...

HTH -
i heat treat before i add the trunnions to avoid this all together
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  #13  
Old 08-11-2011, 7:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straykiller View Post
i heat treat before i add the trunnions to avoid this all together
+1 ... Besides, just boil the parts just before the park tank and all the oil comes out of it Its crazy how much floats up even after SOAKING them for days in thinner or acetone... boiling water does the trick.
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  #14  
Old 08-11-2011, 8:39 PM
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Quote:
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i heat treat before i add the trunnions to avoid this all together
Next time I will do that, but this time that wasn't an option
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