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Rimfire Firearms .22, .17 and other Rimfire Handguns and Rifles

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  #1  
Old 03-02-2011, 10:53 AM
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shinbone shinbone is offline
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Default Whats the best way to float a stock 10/22 barrel?

So far all Ive done to my otherwise stock 10/22 is a poor man's trigger job, removal of the front portion of the walnut stock where the barrel band goes over, and Im going to bed the receiver using epoxy putty. But what's the best way to remove material evenly from the stock?

Thanks
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:01 AM
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Midway USA has a barrel bedding tool with different sized discs available for the size of the barrel channel.
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2011, 11:17 AM
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check with rimfirecentral -> huge 10/22 home smithing section
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Old 03-02-2011, 4:46 PM
Flyingpootang Flyingpootang is offline
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A deep socket wrapped in sandpaper...
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Old 03-02-2011, 6:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingpootang View Post
A deep socket wrapped in sandpaper...
I already thought about this, but the stock barrel is tapered. I thought about taking a strip of sandpaper an 1" x 10" and "flossing" it between the barrel and stock grit side down (of course), but Im just afraid I'll mar up the barrel.

I'll go check at rimfirecentral. Thanks guys.
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Old 03-02-2011, 6:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinbone View Post
So far all Ive done to my otherwise stock 10/22 is a poor man's trigger job, removal of the front portion of the walnut stock where the barrel band goes over, and Im going to bed the receiver using epoxy putty. But what's the best way to remove material evenly from the stock?

Thanks

Why dose it need to be even? The epoxy will fill in the imperfections, I used a Dremel and a small router bit and then sand any high stuff. It worked great just make sure that you go down deep enough.
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Old 03-02-2011, 7:02 PM
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Is free-floating the barrel on a 10/22 even a good thing to do? The way the barrel just slides into the soft alloy receiver, and is held with a clamp, makes me think the barrel NEEDS to be supported by the stock.

Otherwise, I see the potential for barrel motion (sag) relative to the receiver, which is bad, especially if you have a receiver-mounted scope.

What exactly does one achieve by free floating ANY .22 LR?

Thoughts?

Crunch
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Old 03-02-2011, 7:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crunch130 View Post
Is free-floating the barrel on a 10/22 even a good thing to do? The way the barrel just slides into the soft alloy receiver, and is held with a clamp, makes me think the barrel NEEDS to be supported by the stock.

Otherwise, I see the potential for barrel motion (sag) relative to the receiver, which is bad, especially if you have a receiver-mounted scope.

What exactly does one achieve by free floating ANY .22 LR?

Thoughts?

Crunch
i free float and bed every rimfire i own. To protect against the "sag" as you put it, I put a pressure pad a few inches in front of the receiver with the bedding material. This supports the barrel and produces consistent contact with the barrel. i found that accuracy improves greatly after floating the barrel and bedding the action. (more so with the floating).

i might be able to take some pics if you want some. Most of it is on Rimfirecentral.com like someone said above.

Last edited by trob; 03-02-2011 at 7:39 PM..
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Old 03-02-2011, 8:32 PM
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Yeah, the barrel starts its taper ~1.5 inches from where the barrel meets the receiver, so I'll only free float it from this point on. And yeah, Ive seen instructions where you hang a 3lb weight from the front of the stock so that you can put a pressure pad at the point where the free float starts. When the pad dries, you take the weight off, and you have a pad exerting 3lb upward force to prevent sag.

My concern is not how to take material away from the receiver area, but the fluted cut out from 1.5" in front of the receiver to the front of the stock.

@trob - pics would be cool

Last edited by shinbone; 03-02-2011 at 8:35 PM..
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:20 PM
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please post pics. Now you guys are making me wonder if I should free float my barrel & bed the reciever.

Trob - how far down from the reciever to you bed under the barrel? Is it about the same area the stock one tapers in? Would an extra inch of bedding work also? Do you suggest the DIY home bedding with JB weld and car wax? Can you tell you guys made me start contemplating this whole thing just for my little .22lr friend
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:10 AM
Flyingpootang Flyingpootang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santa9monica View Post
please post pics. Now you guys are making me wonder if I should free float my barrel & bed the reciever.

Trob - how far down from the reciever to you bed under the barrel? Is it about the same area the stock one tapers in? Would an extra inch of bedding work also? Do you suggest the DIY home bedding with JB weld and car wax? Can you tell you guys made me start contemplating this whole thing just for my little .22lr friend
From the chamber/receiver end about the first 2 1/2" forward. Also bed the back of the receiver where it contacts the rear of the stock. I'm using JB Weld (the standard stuff not the quick weld) and WD-40 for the release agent. WD-40 will yield a closer fit/tolerance than wax or shoe polish.
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  #12  
Old 03-06-2011, 1:06 AM
Ifticar Ifticar is offline
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I modified my stock stock to accept a 28", free floating barrel. I did it on a router table using a 1" round over bit.

To get the stock to run over the table parallel to the channel, I hot glued some rails to it.



I also hot glued a spacer to the front to keep the whole thing the proper distance from the from the fence.



After this setup, I ran it over the round over bit.



Then I did the bedding for just the first few inches of the barrel.



The final product

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  #13  
Old 03-06-2011, 4:25 AM
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You could try replacing the factory Ruger V-Block with the Tactical Solutions V-Block replacement.

http://www.tacticalsol.com/products/...=ruger+v+block

You might not even need to bed the barrel with quality replacement v-block, it may free float it for you. I'll let you know after I get mine if it does with my factory stock. There is a cheaper one on Gunbroker from another guy, but his seems to be an amatureish kind of option. For $5 more I'd go with the Tactical Solutions one anyday.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=218986573

I'm not very confident in my amature gun smithing skills very much so I searched for a cheap way to fix the barrel droop problem for quite a while before I found these after market v-blocks. If your not confident in your skills like me these two options seemed like the best bet. For my stock 10/22 handed down to me from Dad I plan to replace the factory v-block anyway. I want to keep that gun as origional as possible and this dosen't seem like over kill like everything I plan to do for my first ultimate. If anybody in SoCal has bedded their factory Ruger stock I'd be intrested in getting together sometime to see if my TactiSol v-block 10/22 would even touch the barrel bedding on your stock. I live between the Burro Canyon and Lytle Creek shooting ranges if anybody into Ruger 10/22's is intrested.

Last edited by BlueDog333; 03-06-2011 at 4:33 AM..
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  #14  
Old 03-07-2011, 9:53 AM
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Wow, great info guys!

Ifticar, I really like that 28" barrel you put on there! Unfortunately I dont have a table router like you do, but what I think I'll do is not worry about the taper that conforms to the barrel, and just wrap 80 grit around a dowel and just start removing material. Great idea about temporarily gluing blocks to the stock to make it evenly run through the channel.

Bluedog, that V-Block replacement looks like a good buy, thanks for that link. I know Tac Sol makes great things for the 22. However I have set pretty low limits in terms of modifications to this little Ruger. I want it all to be hand done mods for precision only.. Just kind of my little personal challenge with it- put my own handiwork only into it. The other reason is I just splunked down 1200 on an Anschutz, so Im broke.
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