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Curio & Relic/Black Powder Curio & Relics and Black Powder Firearms, Old School shooting fun! |
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#1
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Field Grades, all hand picked. The one on the left (in the Boyd's stock) at the Reno show, the two on the right from the North Store a week earlier.
5.4milSA, 5.4milSA, 5.8milSA Before (corresponds to center and right hand rifles in the following pictures): After ![]() Still need to stain that Boyd's wood, but I'm pretty happy how well the cosmoline queen cleaned up! Ty |
#2
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Very nice!
p.s. what are you gonna do with those old beat up stocks? ![]() I'll take them if you don't want them ![]() |
#5
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Nice looking rifles!
I'd send the beater stocks, but those are them! I'm still debating whether I want to stain the Boyd's wood. I'm leaning towards "yes." Either way, it'll darken up in a hurry with some more linseed. |
#6
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I have been using Behr's #600 Tung Oil Finish on most of my milsurp stocks, including some Garand walnut wood.
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Distinguished Rifleman #1924 NRA Certified Instructor (Rifle and Metallic Cartridge Reloading) and RSO https://www.ocabj.net | http://jocabphoto.com My AR15 Service Rifle - Used for CMP/NRA High Power Service Rifle Competitions My Eliseo R5 (Remington 700) Tube Gun - Used for NRA High Power (Match Category) Competitions My M1 Garand Service Rifle - Used for JCG Matches, rebuilt by Dean's Gun Restorations |
#7
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I have been using BLO.... I tried the Tung Oil but didn't like the finish on it and went back to BLO.
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'Just Don't Point, Squint, and Laugh! ' Distinguished Rifleman Badge #2220 |
#9
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I just received a service grade greek return last week. I took it out and shot it yesterday for the first time. I was having no trouble hitting the steel plates at 200 and 300 yards.
Compared to the field grade rifles pistured above, it didn't look as bad when it showed up (mostly the wood gouges), but it is in the same ballpark appearance wise. The wood is three different types, the metal doesn't look much better, my SG rifle has some shiny spots. If I were to order another one ruight now, I would get the field or rack grade and go that route. Save the money and put it towards a new barrel, repark and new wood. |
#10
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The refinished stock has two coats of BLO. I'll probably do a couple of more to further darken it before I use tung oil inside and out. |
#11
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Hey 30~
I've heard others say it and now you just did- One puts Alcohol based stains on AFTER the BLO (Or TO)???? How much of a difference is there if you do the alcohol based stains BEFORE the BLO???? NICE rifles BTW..... your stoocks turned out MUCH nicer than mine!!!!!!
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed or numbered.... I am not a number! I am a free man ~Molôn Labé!!~ 1.)All humanity would be better off if Stoooopid hurt. 2.)Why is it that if guns are sooooo unsafe that you're 9 times more likely to die at the hands of your doctor? 3.)Remember...Buy it cheap & stack it deep ![]() |
#12
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#13
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__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed or numbered.... I am not a number! I am a free man ~Molôn Labé!!~ 1.)All humanity would be better off if Stoooopid hurt. 2.)Why is it that if guns are sooooo unsafe that you're 9 times more likely to die at the hands of your doctor? 3.)Remember...Buy it cheap & stack it deep ![]() |
#14
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The alcohol stains are actually dies... The Chestnut Ridge is very close to Fiebings Dark Brown leather die. I buy the Fiebings at my local hobby store, D&J in Campbell. These dies penetrate really deep into the wood... more so than the oil based dies like Minwax or something. Having BLO or TO on first helps to slow the penetration down a tade and also makes it easier to remove darker shades of die if you think you went too dark (with DNA). If I feel I went too dark, I'll take a rag with DNA and rub down the stock in that particular spot to lighten it up a bit. Clean up? the alcohol dies will STAIN anything! your cloths... the floor... your hands! it can be messy stuff, but DNA (Denatured Alcohol) is the best clean up. But watch out, that stuff can be nasty too... I'll try to use Rubbing Alcohol on my hands if I ever get any die on them, but that doesn't always work. Positives about the dies besides mixing the right colors we want are that the little bottles will go a long long way. One more thing... using a die on one type of wood may end up looking totally different on another... like a USGI Walnut stock may end up a nice brownish with a hint of red that we search for, but that same brown die might look bright RED on a Birch stock... (gee, how did I find that out?) haha Trying to match a Walnut stock with Birch handguards isn't gonna work too well. Last edited by icormba; 08-22-2006 at 1:23 AM.. |
#15
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Thanks!
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__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed or numbered.... I am not a number! I am a free man ~Molôn Labé!!~ 1.)All humanity would be better off if Stoooopid hurt. 2.)Why is it that if guns are sooooo unsafe that you're 9 times more likely to die at the hands of your doctor? 3.)Remember...Buy it cheap & stack it deep ![]() |
#16
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Here's a shot of the minty 5.4milSA GK FG in the finished Boyd's stock.
I spent a couple of hours slimming it down and shaping the grip and comb into more of a GI profile. Then a coat of BLO. 3-4 coats of Chestnut Ridge Stain, then another coat of BLO. ![]() ![]() The label on the stain says "with a hint of red" which is a big understatement. It looks like an early war stock and I like it. I need to get down to the range tomorrow or Sunday and see how these babies shoot! Ty |
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