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  #1  
Old 08-10-2010, 11:17 PM
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TurnersAmanda TurnersAmanda is offline
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Arrow Which is better- Ceracoat or Duracoat?

I've been hearing great reviews about two different products- Ceracoat and Duracoat. These are generally the same product made by two different manufacturers for gun finishing.
Has anyone actually had either of these processes done?

I'm looking to use one of these products for the steel frame of my handgun and possibly on alumimum grips and a magwell. I holster my gun VERY often and I'd like to know if these finishes may wear off easily.

Please e-mail me if you've used one or both of these products.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 08-12-2010, 6:31 AM
Bob Hostetter Bob Hostetter is offline
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Actually they aren't the same product. CeraCoat is harder and much more durable then DuraCoat.
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  #3  
Old 08-12-2010, 7:46 PM
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OK - so here's the short, easy to digest, laymans version ;-)

Cerakote came from the aerospace industry, and the manufacturer has found many diverse "applications" due to the coatings very high wear and rust resistant qualities.

Cerakote has a two-part heat cured paint which is the version I choose to use. One part is the ceramic based paint, and the other is an epoxy hardner.

You can only mix the two -part Cerakote paint right before you plan on spraying it, and you MAYBE have a 30 min window before it starts to harden inside the spraygun - so everything HAS to be ready to go or the paint will harden and be wasted.

Also, because Cerakote is ceramic and epoxy (nasty stuff for your lungs), you need to wear a respirator to shoot it, as well as have a well ventilated area with no cars or valuable stuff that shouldn't be painted close by.

NOTE: 80% of a Cerakote job is in the prep work - abrasive blasting, oil removing chemicals, and heating the piece being painted to rid/weep it of any hidden oil. If you've screwed up on any of these steps you'd better work it out VERY QUICKLY as the paint you wish to spray is now drying in the spray gun. To put it mildly, the prep work is the gun world equivalent to a computer clean room and mistakes in the prep process can cost you lots of time and $$$.

Anyway, after shooting the paint on a rifle/pistol, it air cures for 30 minutes, then gets moved to an oven to get baked on for a minimum of 300 degrees for 2 hours.

You can safely handle the gun after the 2 hour oven session, but you shouldn't shoot it until the 6th day after it comes out of the oven, because the paint will continue to cure. Hard to believe but this is the case, it gets harder every day and you can feel the change occurring as you handle the painted piece every day.

After the 6th day, the result is what I like to call a "pool tile" ceramic hard, wear resistant, rust resistant finish that won't flake off like Duracote and the teflon based competition when exposed to high wear loads.

Compitition:
The competitions paint (like Duracoat) is teflon based and made for joe six pack - meaning that very little prep work is required for a finish that will look good, but it will wear off in a few months time.

BUT the mfg. feels that is no deal breaker because their product requires almost no prep work! You can spray it over your guns original finish without any abrasive blasting and a quick chemical wipe-down.

You can spray Duracote without a respirator because it is, in effect, spray paint in a can. Joe-six pack doesn't need a compressor, dryer, spray gun, paint booth, bake oven, or respirator to spray it on his Ruger 10/22 assault rifle ;-)

The air/hang drying time is an hour or so and you're off to the range with your newest camo job. You can change camo jobs as often as you change your underwear ;-)

So as you can read, Duracotes application is VERY FORGIVING and thus very popular by Sellers as well as End Users. What is it - $15 a can or so?

But in the end - all Duracote really offers is good looks for a short time period.

Duracote won't hold high wear loads on it's wear surfaces, so it wears off pretty quick exposing the surface underneath, whereas a Cerakoted bolt or Slide shows no wear IF the piece that is being sprayed is PROPERLY prepared and cured.

This is the link to Cerakote/Firearms Finish:

http://www.nicindustries.com/firearm_coatings.php

Rapidblast

Last edited by Rapidblast; 08-13-2010 at 7:32 AM..
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  #4  
Old 08-12-2010, 8:34 PM
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Quote:
won't flake off like Duracote
I've yet to see Duracoat "flake" if any decent prep work has been done. Chip maybe. I hit my 2 day old Duracoat stock with a flat head screw driver. It made a dent in the wood and punctured my finger. No scratch of paint- just indention of wood. Wasn't even fully cured yet AND NO BAKING E V E R.



I'm not bagging on Ceracoat for it's many details needing done prior to spray and after. But ANY type of coating needs a detail cleaning or you will get flakes.

Justin
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Old 08-13-2010, 5:35 AM
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Fredieusa -

Hey Bro - nice to take a question from you! :-)

Matching Colors:
The more experienced the user, the better the color match capability.
Of course, nothing is better than painting the whole project at once, from the same batch of paint.
It can be done Freddie - it just depends on the person behind the spray gun ;-)

Heat Curing:
You can also LOWER the oven curing temp to 225-250 F. Degrees and increase the curing time to 3-4 hrs for Plastic i.e. Glock frame or vertical hand grips.
There is no problem with painting plastic parts with Cerakote's Heat Curing Variety of paint!

Last edited by Rapidblast; 08-13-2010 at 5:44 AM..
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  #6  
Old 08-13-2010, 6:20 AM
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Alumahyde, KG GunKote, CeraCoat are all fine products, Their just not DuraCoat.
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Old 08-13-2010, 6:34 AM
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I used to use Duracoat. I switched to cerakote a long time ago because of superiority. Here is a link to a data sheet that directly compares Cerakote with KG (C1) and Duracoat (C2).

http://phantomfinishing.com/datasheet.html

If you are going to do it yourself I'd recommend using KG.
+1 on what rapidblast said about the color match. Another thing that is worth looking at with metal parts is ionbond. It was originally developed to increase the life of drill bits and is now available for firearm use. Their diamond black only comes in black though.
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Old 08-13-2010, 6:52 AM
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What about cerakoat vs. cerahide? Any vendors do either in the Southern California area?
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  #9  
Old 08-13-2010, 7:04 AM
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Duracoat is tough stuff and I've used it on a few guns.

However, I've yet to use ceracoat and yet to hear anybody say ceracoat is worse than duracoat... until this thread I guess?

I don't know if they have all the wacky colors you can get out of duracoat.
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Old 08-13-2010, 9:24 AM
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I've used Duracoat on about six rifles. I will never use it again, as I don't feel the product lives up to it's hype. I've thought about Cerakoat, or Molycoat, but, I haven't tried them yet because of the problems I've had with Duracoat. Now, I just parkerize everything, and it works wonders and looks good..
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Old 08-13-2010, 2:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinsen View Post
Duracoat is tough stuff and I've used it on a few guns.

However, I've yet to use ceracoat and yet to hear anybody say ceracoat is worse than duracoat... until this thread I guess?

I don't know if they have all the wacky colors you can get out of duracoat.
No, I don't think that is being said. If you have the facilities to do as much prep work and cooking needed for ceracoat, it is good stuff.

If not, Duracoat is what you want for a spray on firearm Finish. No finish is perfect for all applications. I'm just extremely pleased with my experiences with DC only using a $5 HF air brush. No chipping or scratches to report on a 2 year old spray on a plastic carry piece and a beater AK. YMMV of course.

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Old 08-13-2010, 3:59 PM
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As a certified NIC Industries Cerakote applicator that has tried the rest, I only now use Cerakote. In order to make sure any coating sticks you must prep your metal correctly. Those who have had chipping problems with Cerakote or other products probably had some oil or other contaminant on the part that prevented the coating from bonding correctly. That also goes for any other type of coating. You can use a cheap HVLP gun from Harbor Freight, but don't expect it to come out perfect. In order to get a clean finish use the right tools for the job.
Cerakote is by far the best system out there, they even put serial numbers on batches so if there is any issues (not very likely) it can be taken care of immediately. I have also personally seen the impact, bend and salt water test; they are real! If anyone has any questions at all just drop me a PM, email or call the shop.

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  #13  
Old 08-14-2010, 12:23 AM
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At home I use Aluma hyde 2, simply because I don't have the facilities or the money to use a thermal cured product.
At the shop I worked at we used Moly Resin on everything, and that stuff is tough. It also soaks up any oils you apply to the finish and looks good. It goes on thin and the only fit up problems I had was a trigger pin on a Sig 220. That was fixed with some 600 grit sand paper on the pin and everything was fine.

Dura coat is Polane from Sherwin Williams. It's basically an industrial automotive paint used on heavy machinery. That one reason why you can add flakes and other types of additives for different effects. The same as one can do for custom auto paint jobs.
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2014, 4:07 AM
CERACOAT-NANOTECH CERACOAT-NANOTECH is offline
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Default BEST Gun Protective Coatings Product Review

Greetings,

I happened to be searching for updates on best gun protective coatings and came across this excelent thread which I agree with. CeraKOTE is the best product on the market, although it is quite an involved application procedure as I found out when I decided to apply it myself. Made a mistake and evidently missed a spot when cleaning prior to application. I can only guess at how I missed a spot as it only showed up several months later when finish started to chip off in one area only. Great product if applied properly.

Live and learn, but reading through thread I saw confusion on CeraCOAT which is not in the same category as CeraKOTE or Duracoat which are technically paint like coatings, although much harder than typical paints. Both are good products as I have experimented with both over the years, not lately, so there may have been some improvements in last year or so, that is what I was searching for.

Duracoat supposedly needs less surface preperation, but as expected, the long term results will not be close to a properly prepared CeraKote application. I had one of my guns coated by local professional, and was pleased with application to date, but the cost was crazy at nearly a quarter of what I paid for gun. Setting up to apply it again myself was not possible as I had gotten rid of paint and sand blasting booth I once had when I first coated a gun evaluating product. Warning labels will limit most from applying product as you need to have proper equipment and protection to avoid inhaling fumes which smell real caustic, so be careful.

Duracoat was far easier to use as it requires less preperation which can take over an hour with proper equipment, so as a time saver, Duracoat is good option. Having has time to evaluate several products, the easiest by far was CeraCOAT, not in the same category, so I wanted to point that out given a few confusing posts between CeraKOTE which if hearing it said obviously sounds the same. Long story short, CeraCOAT is a ceramic nanotechnology, not a paint like or epoxy product like the others. No, it won't change colors of guns, it is purely a protective coating for waterproofing and preventing oxidation or rust if you subject your guns or hunting rifles to mud, dirty water or dust. Simple way to protect your collection if you like me are a collector and rarely shoot these nor want to alter their color. Simply goes on like a polish, not a paint and lasts up to a year depending on use, forever if you have collections you want to protect. For your commonly used shotguns, this ceramic protective coating will last a whole hunting season, and can easily be applied as often as you like for added protection. It does not build up to naked eye, but under a microscope you see the pourus metal being filled by nano ceramic molecules and you can tell it is working by simply pouring water on guns, it beads up and you can blow it dry with ease, same with mud, nothing sticks.

Just wanted to clarify the differences for those who are stll interested, even though this thread died a couple years ago, we still want to protect our weapons at the lowest cost possible and as easily as possible, so I am convinced CeraCOAT is the answer as it can be used for everything you want protected from dirt and water damage, even you hunting boots, sleeping bags, clothes, tents, this is an amazing technology, and I have evaluated them all over the years. Full disclosure, you can actually save more money by becoming free distributor if interested, that is what I did to save 20% as I am tight as a frogs butt. lol

Happy Hunting,
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Old 12-18-2014, 4:41 AM
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Cerakote. Hands down.

Have had a 1911 and an AR15 done in cerakote. The stuff is impervious.
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Old 12-18-2014, 5:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapidblast View Post
OK - so here's the short, easy to digest, laymans version ;-) ...

Rapidblast
Thanks for taking the time write that up ... much appreciated! I painted a number of guns with Duracoat several years ago. I actually spent two days at Lauer in MN to get certified. At the time, Duracoat had a huge number of colors to choose from, which was its strong point for awhile. But in perusing the Cerakote web-site, it looks like they've also got plenty of colors to choose from now. While I haven't painted with Cerakote, I can attest to the fact that Durakote doesn't hold up to serious use.

Then again ... a couple of cans of Krylon will net a pretty nice camo job for specific applications (ie, desert vs. forest). And it will come off pretty easily later when your camo needs change.
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Old 12-18-2014, 6:31 AM
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Here's the deal. If you are a sissy. Have someone professionally Ceracoat your gun for Ya.
It's all in the prep. Tedious work indeed. But no F ups.
If you're like me and think of painted guns as tools, then pickup Duracoat shake n spray and go slow. Still all about the prep. Don't paint small parts. Go slow. Shake n spray kits don't go as far as buying an airbrush Kit.
Be advised.
The rifles Id like to keep for the kids, I keep stock.
The rifles I bang out, I'll spray
But I'm also a krylon offender. If you are careful with Krylon, you can get a cool camo job very cheap and fast
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Old 12-23-2014, 4:31 PM
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I have a buddy who is very talented and does Cerakote. He has told me that he can make just about any color you want, with the exception being some of the metallic flake products that don't mix well. If you have a professional do it, you can have it how you want it.I have a buddy who is very talented and does Cerakote. He has told me that he can make just about any color you want, with the exception being some of the metallic flake products that don't mix well. If you have a professional do it, you can have it how you want it. https://m.facebook.com/RatsCustomPinstriping
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Old 12-23-2014, 4:42 PM
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The new 9mm vs .45?
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Old 12-24-2014, 9:40 PM
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I used KG gun kote for years until Cerakote came out. Cerakote is by far the best gun paint/coating to ever come along. It will take another company a lot of work to come up with something better, if it's even possible.
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Old 12-25-2014, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
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I have a buddy who is very talented and does Cerakote. He has told me that he can make just about any color you want, with the exception being some of the metallic flake products that don't mix well. If you have a professional do it, you can have it how you want it.I have a buddy who is very talented and does Cerakote. He has told me that he can make just about any color you want, with the exception being some of the metallic flake products that don't mix well. If you have a professional do it, you can have it how you want it. https://m.facebook.com/RatsCustomPinstriping
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