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  #41  
Old 07-28-2010, 12:12 AM
NorCalDustin NorCalDustin is offline
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I've used 2 part hydrogen peroxide for certain projects in the past... But never on a gun stock... So, I dunno...
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  #42  
Old 07-28-2010, 1:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalDustin View Post
Have you ever bleached a stock?
If you try it, please take some pictures along the way, I know this slows down the project quite a bit but it seems that it might benifit some other calgunners.
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  #43  
Old 07-28-2010, 3:02 PM
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Yeah... I'll probably do that.

I was craving out my stock but when I was stepping the holes inside the butt-stock it cracked it apart on both sides. I could save it, but it's just not going to look as amazing so I'll have start over at a later date. I was so disappointed when it happened, but that's the risk I was running..


Anyway, I already started stripping my original stock... I've done 5 stripping runs so far and the wood is still really dark. I'll probably get what I need to do a 2 part hydrogen peroxide bleach tomorrow.
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  #44  
Old 07-28-2010, 3:12 PM
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I just happened to have bleached a Bulgy furniture last night. just used 25% bleach (clorox) to 75% hot water...soaked it for a few hours until I got the results that I wanted. Didn't take pictures of the pre-bleached wood, but it was a darker stained furniture set. Went through the 2 citristrip processes and it was still a bit "stained". It is a spare set, so I figured I'd try bleaching now. pics up when I get home.
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  #45  
Old 07-28-2010, 4:38 PM
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Sweet...

So you did do the 2 Citristrip's BEFORE bleaching right?
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  #46  
Old 07-28-2010, 7:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalDustin View Post
Sweet...

So you did do the 2 Citristrip's BEFORE bleaching right?
Yeah he did, at least that what I read. Can't wait to see the pics!
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  #47  
Old 07-28-2010, 8:08 PM
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Quote:
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Yeah he did, at least that what I read. Can't wait to see the pics!
Yeah, thats how i read it too...

Anyway, I cant wait to see it either... I'll do before/afters of mine as well... I'll get what I need tomorrow.
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  #48  
Old 07-29-2010, 4:45 PM
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sorry been having internet problems at home today...Yes...citristrip first then bleach. gets the varnish or shellac off so you can bleach the wood. keep in mind that these were hardwood pieces, not sure how laminates would hold up to being soaked for hours. May be fine, but I havn't tried it.

Now it's time to sand.

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  #49  
Old 08-02-2010, 7:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IN OXNARD, CA View Post
AIMSMALL, THE WIPE ON POLY, IS THAT SATIN, SEMI GLOSS OR GLOSS?
It is "clear satin".
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  #50  
Old 08-02-2010, 7:52 PM
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Also just a heads up, I have a top hand guard that has some dents in it so I will be adding the dent removal with the iron steps in the next few days.
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  #51  
Old 08-07-2010, 10:39 PM
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Ok pics of dent removal are up on post #4 and #5.
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  #52  
Old 08-07-2010, 10:46 PM
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Great Job! I love Citristrip.
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  #53  
Old 08-07-2010, 11:01 PM
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Thanks Mach, I have aspirations of adding some bakelite refinishing on here too. Once I finish my top handguard I'll throw it on the rifle you helped me with last weekend and throw some pics of the completed rifle on here.
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  #54  
Old 08-07-2010, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIMSMALL View Post
Thanks Mach, I have aspirations of adding some bakelite refinishing on here too. Once I finish my top handguard I'll throw it on the rifle you helped me with last weekend and throw some pics of the completed rifle on here.
bakelite refinishing! can't wait.
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  #55  
Old 09-10-2010, 8:32 PM
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Great tutorial. I'm using your method to do my Romy stock. I cut off the donkey dong since my rifle is featureless, and am using the cutoff portion to test out different stain. The first coat is drying as we speak. After looking at samples I bought a can of the Gunstock 231, and a can of Sedona Red 222. Right now I like the way the Red looks, but I may use the Gunstock as a base coat and go over it several times with the Red to try and simulate a nice dark Russian Red kind of color. Hopefully I'll be finished in a couple of weeks. My schedule is pretty hectic right now.

Thanks again for the great tutorial which gave me the inspiration to try this.
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  #56  
Old 09-10-2010, 9:29 PM
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please feel free to post some pics of your project.
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  #57  
Old 09-11-2010, 9:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIMSMALL View Post
please feel free to post some pics of your project.
just finished coat four.

Once its all done i will post it.

Your guide has been very helpful. I feel like a professional haha.
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  #58  
Old 09-11-2010, 3:12 PM
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Here's a pic of it after 2nd coat of Sedona Red. In the sun the pic shows more red than you see in person. I'm thinking of using some Rit Dye in Scarlet Red to finish it. What do you think.



For the wipe on poly, did you just wipe it on and wait for it to dry, or did you actually rub the poly into the wood?
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Last edited by BLD; 09-11-2010 at 3:38 PM..
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  #59  
Old 09-11-2010, 7:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLD View Post
Here's a pic of it after 2nd coat of Sedona Red. In the sun the pic shows more red than you see in person. I'm thinking of using some Rit Dye in Scarlet Red to finish it. What do you think.

For the wipe on poly, did you just wipe it on and wait for it to dry, or did you actually rub the poly into the wood?
If you want to change the color a bit more with the rit dye go for it, it's your gun. I think it's looking real nice so far!

The poly needs to be "wiped on" with an old t-shirt and then let it dry, hit it with steel wool between coats too. I think the "rubbing in" is more for the stain then the poly coats.
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  #60  
Old 09-16-2010, 4:00 PM
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As promised here are the pics of the finished furniture. 3 coats of Sedona Red 222 and 5 coats of Clear Satin Wipe on Poly and voila...



This pic doesn't show as much red as you see in person. I was going to try and get a more reddish color, but when I compared it to my 91/30 the color was very close. They turned out so nice I'm not sure my AK is worthy of them. I may just have to build another.

Thanks again Aimsmall, your method worked out great.
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  #61  
Old 09-16-2010, 4:31 PM
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Looks Good!
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  #62  
Old 09-16-2010, 4:50 PM
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thanks AIM
next time you refinish a set try using a wood scraper
instead of sandpaper
it opens the pores of the wood more
and lets it absorb the stain better
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  #63  
Old 09-27-2010, 10:22 AM
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great post, as a guy who spends most of his days working with and finishing wood, i would like to add one step and one emphasis. when you steam wood, as you said, make sure the wood is completely dry before sanding/staining. if you dont, the wood will shrink and you are left with a bigger dent. second, after using steel wool there will be all sorts of tiny peices of metal that can mess up a finish. a good way to get them all is buy a good magnet from the hardware store (i use a 10 pack of neomydium magnets, maybe $5), wrap them in a rag and wipe, the magnets will pick up the metal dust, so it doesnt get in the finish.
great post and good luck
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  #64  
Old 09-27-2010, 5:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetguy View Post
great post, as a guy who spends most of his days working with and finishing wood, i would like to add one step and one emphasis. when you steam wood, as you said, make sure the wood is completely dry before sanding/staining. if you dont, the wood will shrink and you are left with a bigger dent. second, after using steel wool there will be all sorts of tiny peices of metal that can mess up a finish. a good way to get them all is buy a good magnet from the hardware store (i use a 10 pack of neomydium magnets, maybe $5), wrap them in a rag and wipe, the magnets will pick up the metal dust, so it doesnt get in the finish.
great post and good luck
Yeah good idea with the magnet, I usually just blow it off with compressed air and then wipe with a clean strip of an old t-shirt, and yeah let the wood dry up all the way before doing anything else to it.

I just got done refinishing another Romy G furniture set and a Bulgy ak74 set too, I'll add some pics to show the different color stain I used on the Bulgy and I used Tung oil instead of wipe on Poly on the Romy kit. While the tung oil does give a nice finish, I still think I like the wipe on poly a little better.
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  #65  
Old 09-27-2010, 5:56 PM
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Posts # 8 and #9 have been updated with new pictures, will edit later to include more "how to info" and stain color info.




Hey Munk, did you ever finish that stock you bleached, We're still waiting on Pics as well as stain and clear coat info.




..
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Last edited by AIMSMALL; 10-03-2010 at 7:42 PM..
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  #66  
Old 10-27-2010, 8:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIMSMALL View Post
I would measure the black stripe before stripping then tape it with blue painters tape after the first coat of clear. Next I would do a few coats of spray paint, gloss black duplicolor from the autoparts store. Then I'd go thru the clearcoat process as described already.
Why after the first clear coat? Wouldn't paint stick better to bare wood?

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Originally Posted by BLD View Post
Great tutorial. I'm using your method to do my Romy stock. I cut off the donkey dong since my rifle is featureless, and am using the cutoff portion to test out different stain.
"Donkey dong," hahahahaha.
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  #67  
Old 10-28-2010, 5:58 AM
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Because the paint will "seep" past the tape due to the grains in the wood, plus you're going to clear over it anyway.
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  #68  
Old 11-02-2010, 8:49 PM
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I stained a set of Bulgy furniture today. On coat two of stain right now. Your method with the rag to wipe on the stain is much better than my previous attempts with a paint brush.
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  #69  
Old 12-08-2010, 12:52 PM
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Wanted to thank AIMSMALL for the how too's . Came out great!!! I did buy some more different types of stain to play around with .

Dark Walnut 2716
Sedona Red 222
Ebony 2718


1:Citristrip for 30 mins first coat.

2:Citristrip over night.

3:Let the wood dry for 24 hours before sanding.

4:Sanded with 100 Grit Then Sanded with 320 Grit. Next time will do 100,220,320.

5:Added MinxWax Pre-Stain

6:withen 2 hours added my first coat of Gunstock #231 let it dry for 6 hours.

7:Added 4 more coats waiting 6 hours after each coat. Total of 5 coats.

8:Added the Minwax Wipe On Poly 5 coats waiting 2 hours each coat and sanding with 00000 steel wool each coat.





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Old 12-08-2010, 1:02 PM
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They look great.

Congrats.
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  #71  
Old 12-08-2010, 8:51 PM
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Very Nice.
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  #72  
Old 12-09-2010, 8:17 AM
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If the original clearcoat varnish is totally gone from the wood, I recommend using the dishwasher (at your office or your house depending on whether you fear your office admin or your wife less) at the pots & pan settings. No soap, just heat and water.

My wood came out pale grey after doing this and you can do a BUNCH of different sets at the same time.

You may want to run the dishwasher EMPTY with soap for one cycle afterwards to rid the system of the smell.

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  #73  
Old 12-09-2010, 11:52 AM
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Thanks Guys. Munkeeboi how long did you let it soak and how long did you dry it before you sanded.

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Originally Posted by munkeeboi View Post
sorry been having internet problems at home today...Yes...citristrip first then bleach. gets the varnish or shellac off so you can bleach the wood. keep in mind that these were hardwood pieces, not sure how laminates would hold up to being soaked for hours. May be fine, but I havn't tried it.

Now it's time to sand.

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Old 12-10-2010, 7:42 PM
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Instead of using a clothes iron, do you think a clothes steamer would be as effective?
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:46 PM
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well done!
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  #76  
Old 12-12-2010, 12:12 AM
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Instead of using a clothes iron, do you think a clothes steamer would be as effective?
Maybe, but I don't have one to try it plus I figured most people will have an iron. It's actually the steam that lifts the dents out so I'd say it's worth a try if you have one already. Let us know how it works out.
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Old 12-12-2010, 1:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AIMSMALL View Post
Maybe, but I don't have one to try it plus I figured most people will have an iron. It's actually the steam that lifts the dents out so I'd say it's worth a try if you have one already. Let us know how it works out.
I fall into the category of one of those people who don't own an iron. I'll try out the clothes steamer and see how it does. I guess the worst case scenario is that I fork out 20 bucks for a cheap clothes iron. If only my kit would hurry up and arrive...

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  #78  
Old 12-12-2010, 1:50 AM
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What about the bakelite refinish? I have some cz52 bakelite I would like to do.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:04 AM
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What about the bakelite refinish? I have some cz52 bakelite I would like to do.
I've just been super busy and haven't had time to play with the AK's lately. My plan was to sandblast an old bakelite pistol grip and then clear coat it but I haven't tried it yet to see how it looks. It's still on the list though.
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Old 12-14-2010, 12:23 PM
Joe Joe is offline
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I'm going to do this in a few weeks. I'll post pics. Everyone did great work in this thread
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