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Curio & Relic/Black Powder Curio & Relics and Black Powder Firearms, Old School shooting fun!

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  #1  
Old 06-09-2010, 2:22 PM
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Default Who shoots Swedish guns Pt.II---The 1887 Swedish Nagant

Apparently, I own one of these pistols. It is Husqvarna manufactured but I dont which year. All I know is that it shoots 7.5mm Nagant and you load it like a Colt SAA (on the side with the ejector).

Do any Calgunners shoot these? And would these also have that superior Swedish metal?

It looks like mine still has the original bluing but it is blemished all over. In addition it also looks like the holster it comes with is original because it has those little crowns you see on Swedish Mausers, for example. On the outside of the holster is has a stamp of that crown and it says "T.6." On the inside, you can find the same crown with the letters "A, (unreadable), F" I think those are initials for some king.
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Old 06-09-2010, 3:54 PM
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I wonder if the trigger is better than the normal Russian Nagant Revolver.
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Old 06-09-2010, 4:03 PM
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I have one and I've shot it a little bit. I've never researched them though. 7.5 Nagant is not the easiest ammo to find but, it is available.
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Old 06-10-2010, 6:58 AM
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Hey, can you post some picts of the gun and holster? When I got mine, it just came in an old tube sock. Also, finding 7.5 Swedish ammo can be next to impossible. But, 7.5 Swiss Nagant (not to be confused with 7.5 Swiss for the K31s) will work just fine in your revolver. I was a bit hesitant to use it but, after some research, I found out the the only difference is the projo weight. If you are up to buying a $150 set of dies, a custom mold and custom Star lubesizer die, I'd be willing to split the investment with you, take a weekend and cast, size & lube, convert 32-20 brass and load ammo. We could probably do 500-1000 rounds in one weekend. I'd figure that it would take about 1500 rounds to "break even" on the initial tooling and brass investment.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2010, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by CSACANNONEER View Post
Hey, can you post some picts of the gun and holster? When I got mine, it just came in an old tube sock. Also, finding 7.5 Swedish ammo can be next to impossible. But, 7.5 Swiss Nagant (not to be confused with 7.5 Swiss for the K31s) will work just fine in your revolver. I was a bit hesitant to use it but, after some research, I found out the the only difference is the projo weight. If you are up to buying a $150 set of dies, a custom mold and custom Star lubesizer die, I'd be willing to split the investment with you, take a weekend and cast, size & lube, convert 32-20 brass and load ammo. We could probably do 500-1000 rounds in one weekend. I'd figure that it would take about 1500 rounds to "break even" on the initial tooling and brass investment.

I willl post pictures when I return home from my trip. As for the reloading and shooting part, that sounds pretty badass, I am not gonna lie. But at this point in time, that wont be possible chiefly because I dont know how to import a C&R gun from Mexico into the US legally. That is my biggest set back right now. Hopefully in the future, your offer will still stand though.

I am not the person to ask about revolver trigger pulls because of my marginal knowledge on them, but I would assume that this gun qualifies for a pretty heavy DA pull.

My biggest question is how a 100+ year old revolver found its way into Mexico. I sure am glad it still works and that it feels solid.
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Old 06-10-2010, 11:54 AM
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For now, here is a pic of Google images of my type of holster. (seen in the bottom right)

The only difference is that mine looks like it has been places, in other words, old.






My own, I just noticed, does not have the lanyard ring...
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Last edited by rojocorsa; 06-10-2010 at 11:55 AM.. Reason: I just noticed....
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Old 06-11-2010, 8:21 PM
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How is the weather in Sinaloa? I bet your main problem is to bring back the revolver thru all the check points in Mexico.
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  #8  
Old 06-15-2010, 6:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Tenamaxtle View Post
How is the weather in Sinaloa? I bet your main problem is to bring back the revolver thru all the check points in Mexico.
I havent been around much, so I havent run into any checkpoints. But yes, the biggest thing I have to worry about when bringing my guns home is the Mexican law. I also have two shotguns I need to bring back, and I assume I will still have to deal with the BATFU.

The weather hasn't hit the notoriety it is know for yet, but it's still hot.
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Old 06-17-2010, 7:51 PM
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Upper is a Belgian m/1887 Swedish service pistol cal. 7.5mm Nagant. Lower is a Russian m/1895 Nagant, Russian made. Don't confuse the two. Calibers are different as is the lockwork.



1- .32 S&W Short
2- .32 acp (7.65 Browning)
3- .32 S&W Long
4- 7.5mm Swedish Nagant




1- Swedish lös patroner, wooden blank, 7.5mm
2- paper-patched black powder 7.5 Swedish Nagant
3- Swiss Ordnance 7.5mm Fiocci, modern loaded


Shortage? Hard to find?


Total manufactured by HVA: 14,000 from about 1897 to 1905.
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  #10  
Old 06-17-2010, 7:51 PM
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[IMG][/IMG]
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  #11  
Old 06-17-2010, 10:27 PM
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The guy on the far right foreground looks like Teddy Roosevelt.

Thank you for posting these, v/d Brink.
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Old 06-18-2010, 11:33 PM
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1887 Swedish Nagant 7.5mm of Husqvarna manufacture. I don't know how this piece ended up in Mexico.




Should have cleared the background. Hindsight is 20/20


Not the best rear sights. Also, note loading gate on the right.
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Old 06-18-2010, 11:33 PM
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Single action, left side. What's the funky color on the trigger? Case hardening?


Strips down just like an 1895.


Outside flap of [apparently] original holster. You can make out that crown you often see on Swede Mausers (1896)


Cartouche with crown (inside of holster)

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Old 06-19-2010, 3:12 AM
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The yellow color of the various parts is a result of the tempering process after they were hardened. The hardness was "tempered" to a softer level specific to a particular heat range. Steel is so treated so it can be used for different applications that require different hardnesses. It's a fascinating throughback to alchemy and bronze age smelting of copper then bronze for tools and weapons.

This particular shade of yellow is called "straw". The colors on the right are the heat treating colors and the colors on the left are the tempering colors. Screw heads on many old and fine firearms use to be "heat blued". Just heated up to the desired color. Just from memory (which isn't always reliable) the "cherry red" color is about 1,375 degrees F. The tempering colors range from a low of 420 F to 610 F.

heat treat colors
http://www.tpub.com/content/construc...s/14250_29.htm

tempering
http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/11.htm

Case hardening technically isn't "heat treating". The "case" is the outside skin of the steel. You start with low carbon steel and to make the skin hard, very hard, you have to add carbon. How it was done in the olden days was to pack the part tightly with powdered charred leather, burned bone and various wood types of charcoal. I could go on and on about this but it's 4am .

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Old 06-23-2010, 8:34 PM
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Default $0.02 A Space in Time The Picture

Not a knock on the weapon or any poster. But looking at that picture reminds me of reading a book that was 3 inches thick, over 200 pages with photos, on WW1, the Great War, the War to end all wars, when I was in 7th grade. 1970. The Prussians, the Germans, were perfecting and deploying belt fed water cooled machine guns, high velocity ammo; for the good guys, the elite and their officer class were preparing to march through the enemy capital in their dress parade uniform, carried to victory by their bayonets and their ELAN. Mass slaughter ensued on a scale never before witnessed on this earth. As much as 300,000 at a time, a single week engagement. Even before the use of gas. After the mutinies by the French in 1917, over 3,000 executed by firing squad for simply refusing to go over the top and be shot down before going 100 feet. God Bless.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flouncer View Post
Not a knock on the weapon or any poster. But looking at that picture reminds me of reading a book that was 3 inches thick, over 200 pages with photos, on WW1, the Great War, the War to end all wars, when I was in 7th grade. 1970. The Prussians, the Germans, were perfecting and deploying belt fed water cooled machine guns, high velocity ammo; for the good guys, the elite and their officer class were preparing to march through the enemy capital in their dress parade uniform, carried to victory by their bayonets and their ELAN. Mass slaughter ensued on a scale never before witnessed on this earth. As much as 300,000 at a time, a single week engagement. Even before the use of gas. After the mutinies by the French in 1917, over 3,000 executed by firing squad for simply refusing to go over the top and be shot down before going 100 feet. God Bless.
I know! Pretty cool...history I mean,not the 3,000 guys dieing.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:39 PM
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Carry on.
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Old 09-18-2010, 5:30 PM
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Found this thread while looking for 7.5mm ammunition information and sources. Might as well share why - my Haenel - made 1895 7.5mm revolver (made for police use, I've read).

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Old 09-21-2010, 8:50 PM
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That's German or Swiss-German, isn't it?
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Old 09-24-2010, 4:36 AM
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German. Haenel is better known for making GEW88 rifles, and to a lesser extent the Reichsrevolver (or Ordnance Revolver 1879/1883)
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Old 01-16-2011, 7:05 PM
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Does anyone here know how to detail strip this bad boy? I'm back in the old country on vacation, and in dry firing it, I find that the trigger feels very gritty when it resets. I wasn't doing this before, and it only happens when it wants to reset. I thought maybe that I could take it down, clean it up in there a little, and put some oil in there.

When I took the cylinder off, I noticed that it actually had some fouling from god knows how long ago. Luckily the rifling still looks sharp and everything. I can't wait to get it back to the US. I would appreciate if anyone could give me any pro-tips in getting rid of that gritty reset, as I don't want to ruin my piece.

I also found that for being as old as it is, that it is well made. I also find it to look more attractive than the 1895, but maybe that's because I own one.
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Old 02-12-2011, 5:30 PM
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Old 02-12-2011, 7:26 PM
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Wrong gun. The Nagant on that link are the 1895 Russian. This thread is about the 1887 Swedish Nagant. They are not the same. They do not have the same action/internal parts.
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Old 02-12-2011, 7:59 PM
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I've always wanted the single action only variant.....

sexy guns...

I have one in .32acp kicking around somewhere back home..
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:16 PM
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I have been back from Mexico for a couple weeks now, but another issue that my gun had recently was that it was only firing on double action every so often instead of every time. My guess is that some internal component got worn down too much. I don't know what it is called, but the part was inside of the hammer "stem." At least the gun still shoots in single action. But above all this really is more of a curio to me, so I am not too worried if it won't shoot DA.
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:33 PM
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All this talk about pistols....I just bought a Husqvarna Model 51 SxS Shotgun, and I can't wait to get it. Anyone have any Swedish Shotguns?
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Old 02-14-2011, 1:21 PM
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dude bummer about getting it back in the states.
A lot of things ended up in Mexico through various ways, i would think mostly by trade. a few friends of mine have old mausers and some other more modern stuff that seemed to pop up there with out much of an explanation. my friend Lauro has a spaz 12 that he just bough some where in Puebla. he walked into a store and asked for some thing to kill rabits with and what ever pests are on his property.the guy sold him the spaz.
my Boss and good friend Chuy said that some only man in his village has some thing that i think was an enfield Mk4. Chuy has one of those Mexican army 1911 style .45's back home but he has the same problem of getting it here. some old dude near him made a sten gun from scratch and was running around shooting woodland animals with it. Chuy said theres a bunch of south American mausers in his neck of the woods so probably some one just sold and traded it enough times it traveled northward.
is there any one you can call here in the states to get it mailed there like a mom and pap importer?
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Old 02-14-2011, 8:51 PM
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Yeah, I am sure there are ways, but I've been worrying about other things lately.

Now, what I really want to bring home are my shotguns that I inherited from my grandpa. There is an 870 Wingmaster with nice bluing calling my name.
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Old 03-31-2011, 1:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rojocorsa View Post
Does anyone here know how to detail strip this bad boy? I'm back in the old country on vacation, and in dry firing it, I find that the trigger feels very gritty when it resets. I wasn't doing this before, and it only happens when it wants to reset. I thought maybe that I could take it down, clean it up in there a little, and put some oil in there.

When I took the cylinder off, I noticed that it actually had some fouling from god knows how long ago. Luckily the rifling still looks sharp and everything. I can't wait to get it back to the US. I would appreciate if anyone could give me any pro-tips in getting rid of that gritty reset, as I don't want to ruin my piece.

I also found that for being as old as it is, that it is well made. I also find it to look more attractive than the 1895, but maybe that's because I own one.
The cyl is removed by pulling the center pin out. To take down the pistol, remove the one large headed screw that holds the left and right halves together. There is a split between the left and right grips, just gently work the two halves apart. All the parts are in the right side frame. If you need parts, Numrich may still have them if they have not thrown them away (recently they do that when no one knows what they are...I guess to make room for more junk).
I am currently completing a 1887 Husqvarna that I originally build at Numrich Arms in the 80's when I was head gunsmith in R&D there. We had maybe a hundred complete frames with all of the parts. The frames were factory complete but not final polished. I assembled this one so I could write assembly instructions as we sold the rest as kits. If you ever see an 1887 Husqvarna with the serial number prefix NAC, it was one of those. So now many years later, I'm polishing and rust bluing this one for myself. I just bought a set of 7.5 Swiss ordnance dies, M1 carbine dies (for sizing) and some 32/20 brass. I plan on shooting black powder loads as I've heard it has the best balistics.

Last edited by tune2at; 03-31-2011 at 1:21 PM..
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