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  #121  
Old 02-27-2011, 5:07 PM
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Largely the same. Some minor differences.
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  #122  
Old 03-07-2011, 5:50 PM
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Is it pretty much just plug and play if you build with a parts kit that includes a barrel and a 100% nodakspud receiver?
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  #123  
Old 03-07-2011, 5:52 PM
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Pretty much, though you'll have to rivet carefully and make sure the headspace is correct. Easy enough if you're using a matched parts kit. Just go slow with the press.
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  #124  
Old 03-07-2011, 6:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Aspec5vz View Post
Is it pretty much just plug and play if you build with a parts kit that includes a barrel and a 100% nodakspud receiver?
I wouldn't call it "plug and play", but you get to jump a few steps like heat treating or spot welding rails.

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  #125  
Old 03-07-2011, 6:54 PM
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I've been toying with the idea of doing a rivet build with a 100% receiver and complete parts kit because I don't have the tools to build one from a flat. If it's just headspacing and rivets I don't think I'll have any issues with building it. AK-Builder has headspaced kits and gauges so headspacing shouldn't be a problem. The riveting should be pretty simple as well though I've never done it before.
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  #126  
Old 03-08-2011, 1:51 PM
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I think attending an AK build party (even if just to observe) will pay dividends on your final product.

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  #127  
Old 04-01-2011, 8:28 PM
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Thanks Mach1!
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  #128  
Old 06-27-2011, 10:14 PM
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Default Arsenal SGL23 AK47

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Originally Posted by 69Mach1 View Post
Riveting the trigger guard.

Next step is the trigger guard, done before welding of the side rails. Unless the jig for riveting the rear trunnions does not have enough clearance with the trigger guard on. Then it can be done after the rear trunnion is riveted.

Just a reminder. Don't forget to install the selector stop, and to install it in the correct way, and the shortest rivet is used for riveting the back of the trigger guard.

This is the selector stop, the part on top. It fits between the receiver and the trigger guard. It's purpose is to stop the safety selector at the bottom of its swing down.


The extension coming out of the selector stop should be on the same side as the safety selector for obvious reasons.
I have a question about installing the mag catch pivot pin, spring, and mag catch lever in the trigger guard. i have a trigger guard like the one pictured with no pre drilled holes for the pivot pin which i have already done. whats the best way to go about securing the pivot pin once lined up through the spirng and mag catch lever? The trigger guard is already riveted in place and works great, but the pin is not secure. Any help is much appreciated. (by the way i am converting an arsenal sgl23 with the "special arsenal tool" to a conventional mag release with rad lock. Thanks
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  #129  
Old 06-27-2011, 10:32 PM
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You should be able to buy the pin, and use a setting tool to peen it out like the originals. Alternately, run a machine screw through with washers and loctite.
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  #130  
Old 07-05-2011, 3:22 PM
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DUDE!! Great write up!! Thanks for taking the time! I'm stoked now!!
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  #131  
Old 08-21-2011, 1:27 PM
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WOW! Awesome info here. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and your excellent photos! Thats why I love the members at Calguns and the site so much!
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  #132  
Old 08-23-2011, 10:06 AM
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Mach, those are the cleanest completed receivers I've ever seen. And people say AKs are crude lol. Very well done. Very.
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  #133  
Old 09-02-2011, 11:41 AM
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If you have an ak parts kit with an original barrel but non-matching bolt and trunion is that going to be a big problem?
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  #134  
Old 09-02-2011, 3:05 PM
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If you have an ak parts kit with an original barrel but non-matching bolt and trunion is that going to be a big problem?
Not a big problem. You never know, you might even get lucky. When you check the headspace with the barrel pressed into the trunion you will find out if the barrel pin hole lines up. If it doesn't it's a fairly simple procedure to do.
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  #135  
Old 09-02-2011, 4:49 PM
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Oh ok simple task then of making the pinholes lineup at that point?
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  #136  
Old 09-03-2011, 1:52 AM
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Oh ok simple task then of making the pinholes lineup at that point?
If you have the right gauges and tools then yes. If not then no, it isn't easy.

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  #137  
Old 09-27-2011, 5:42 PM
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So can some one tell me what build like this will generally cost complete?
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  #138  
Old 09-27-2011, 5:58 PM
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$500 +/-
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  #139  
Old 09-27-2011, 11:32 PM
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I usually tell people $600 after BP fees, good quality maglock, mag(s), and all US 922r compliance parts.

And when you spend less your happy to afford some blasting ammo to break her in.

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  #140  
Old 09-27-2011, 11:40 PM
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In exchange, you learn a lot about guns, and get a completely legal gun, privately.
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  #141  
Old 12-06-2011, 1:45 PM
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It seems one of my remaining kits is missing the trigger guard and selector plate, though I may have them loose in my office somewhere.

I'm seeing prices in the $40 range for anywhere that has them. Any leads on anything a little cheaper?
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  #142  
Old 12-19-2011, 12:26 PM
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Hello all. Who is the head honcho I would need to contact for help population barrels and signing up for a BP?
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  #143  
Old 12-19-2011, 1:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeWilliamson View Post
It seems one of my remaining kits is missing the trigger guard and selector plate, though I may have them loose in my office somewhere.

I'm seeing prices in the $40 range for anywhere that has them. Any leads on anything a little cheaper?
Did you mean selector stop? If so check out ak-builder for your parts. http://ak-builder.com/index.php?disp...ategory_id=194

Undrilled trigger guard for $12 (drilling them holes are easy as pie)

Selector stop for $7.95

A lot cheaper than $40 even with shipping.
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  #144  
Old 12-19-2011, 1:57 PM
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I found one for $25. So of course, I will now find the one I lost.
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  #145  
Old 01-06-2012, 11:36 AM
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Default grip plate??

Hi was reading this article and getting myself familiar with the process and noticed something in the pictures. I noticed the base plate in this picture and was wondering if this is something necessary for a build. The original receiver stub did not have one and I'm wondering if this is a necessary or even desirable upgrade.



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  #146  
Old 01-06-2012, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAnchovy View Post
Hi was reading this article and getting myself familiar with the process and noticed something in the pictures. I noticed the base plate in this picture and was wondering if this is something necessary for a build. The original receiver stub did not have one and I'm wondering if this is a necessary or even desirable upgrade.



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It's necessary for a folder. It is desirable for any receiver if you're not doing a full heat treat. It adds strength and rigidity. If you're able to spot weld it in place, even better.
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  #147  
Old 03-15-2012, 3:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WTSGDYBBR View Post
Does anyone sell a small portable furnace that we can get to improve are builds at build party's ?
I have one of these bad boys from the ebay store below that I used to use for making knives from railroad spikes.. for fun.. (Short-lived hobby).

http://stores.ebay.com/majesticforge...id=p4340.l2563

I have the 3-burner propane forge. It can run off a regular bbq-style propane tank and I suspect can easily be used for eat treating AK receivers.



I would be interested in an LA Area build party so I can finally put some attention to my Romy G parts kit.. It would be my first build, but I have much of the tools needed (minus the bending jigs and other "specialty" stuff)
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  #148  
Old 03-15-2012, 4:29 PM
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To treat an AK with a gas forge, you need to choke the venturis to richen the feed, keep the pressure low, and ideally, wrap the receivers in stainless foil. Oxidizing heat will damage the receiver in a hurry due to the thinness of the material.

It can be done, just be gentle. Fast heating would be bad, and cause warpage.

An electric kiln/furnace is best.
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  #149  
Old 03-15-2012, 5:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeWilliamson View Post
To treat an AK with a gas forge, you need to choke the venturis to richen the feed, keep the pressure low, and ideally, wrap the receivers in stainless foil. Oxidizing heat will damage the receiver in a hurry due to the thinness of the material.

It can be done, just be gentle. Fast heating would be bad, and cause warpage.

An electric kiln/furnace is best.
Thanks for the reply.

I always wondered about the oxidation and warping factor of the sheet-like receiver steel.

To anyone's knowledge, would any type of annealing be beneficial? I.E. would an entire hardened receiver be too brittle (VS just local hardening, like with a torch).
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  #150  
Old 03-15-2012, 6:11 PM
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Given the thin cross-section and medium carbon content, I've found them to strengthen nicely during quench--probably a bainite content without needing to temper. I went ahead and tempered slightly anyway, just to be safe.

The Eastern Bloc receiver are MUCH harder, probably Rc 52 or so, a hard spring temper.
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  #151  
Old 03-25-2012, 11:35 PM
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Great write up.

I only read the first 50 posts and dont know if it was mentioned later, so ill add 2 tips.

Before riveting your selector stop make sure it on the correct way, don't ask me how i know.

After a long day of building a nice bottle of whiskey will help cement new friendships and make your tall tails ... umm taller. haha I need to attend another BP just to hang out. Good times.
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  #152  
Old 03-30-2012, 12:39 AM
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Where in LA are you. I'd love to join one of your build parties, have wanted an AK for a long time so I might as well build it. I have to admit though, that I don't even know where to start or what I need to get.
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  #153  
Old 04-02-2012, 11:26 AM
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This is an amazing thread. Ty. I am very inerested in learning the whole process and where can you get all jigs and tools needed? Akbuilder.com? I'd love to get all tools and equipment needed. Any idea what they would add up to aside from the 600$ ak?
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  #154  
Old 05-28-2012, 6:43 PM
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youre probably looking at around $1000 between the ak builder tools the 12ton press the drill press and the files, trunnion press support and spot welder/mig welder. I just bought everything I need from akbuilder now I have to hit up harbor freight.
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  #155  
Old 05-29-2012, 3:54 PM
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awsome step by step... to bad I don't have all the tools to do it. lol The Marine Corps doesn't pay that well :-)
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  #156  
Old 05-29-2012, 4:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeWilliamson View Post
It's necessary for a folder. It is desirable for any receiver if you're not doing a full heat treat. It adds strength and rigidity. If you're able to spot weld it in place, even better.
Do grip plates go on the outside or the inside of the receiver?
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  #157  
Old 05-30-2012, 3:17 AM
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Outside. The holes in the polish plate would line up with existing underfolder holes (these are NOT for rivets!) Use a regular length rivet in lieu of the shorty rear trigger guard rivet. Spot weld plate in place.

If it isn't an UF or side folder kit your building, the plate is not needed.

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Sometimes, arguing just for the sake of arguing, can be fun.
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  #158  
Old 05-30-2012, 8:35 AM
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However, if you're not heat treating the whole receiver, I like to use the rear plate for extra strength.
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  #159  
Old 05-31-2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeWilliamson View Post
However, if you're not heat treating the whole receiver, I like to use the rear plate for extra strength.
The wood stocks do wonders to the rigidity of the receiver when stuffed in as designed. No need for plates on anything but UF and some SF receivers.

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  #160  
Old 05-31-2012, 5:12 PM
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The stock does add strength, but I've had an aftermarket grip with a wider profile allow the receiver to dip, and it can draw the rails enough to affect feeding. Your experiences may be different--it will all depend on hardware, thickness of blank, shaping, etc.

It's never a bad idea to have a stronger receiver.
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