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  #1  
Old 07-07-2014, 2:22 PM
edgerly779 edgerly779 is offline
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Default 1911 jig

While waiting for my 1911 80% er to show up I am making a drill jig tomorrow.
I just downloaded the plans should take an hour or so. Looks pretty straightforward.
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2014, 2:51 PM
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Originally Posted by edgerly779 View Post
While waiting for my 1911 80% er to show up I am making a drill jig tomorrow.
I just downloaded the plans should take an hour or so. Looks pretty straightforward.
I just got a FB notification that TM was now selling 1911 jigs

Ok well sold out now...
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Old 07-08-2014, 6:45 AM
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Originally Posted by edgerly779 View Post
While waiting for my 1911 80% er to show up I am making a drill jig tomorrow.
I just downloaded the plans should take an hour or so. Looks pretty straightforward.
I assume you are talking about making side plates with drill bushings in them.

If you can make one of those, can't you also just drill the holes on location in a frame?

All one needs to drill theses holes is a mill, an indicator, clamps, and the appropriate drills. Unless you plan on selling/renting/or loaning the jig, I just don't see the point; please elaborate.
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Old 07-08-2014, 6:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Lostsheep View Post
I assume you are talking about making side plates with drill bushings in them.

If you can make one of those, can't you also just drill the holes on location in a frame?

All one needs to drill theses holes is a mill, an indicator, clamps, and the appropriate drills. Unless you plan on selling/renting/or loaning the jig, I just don't see the point; please elaborate.
All you need is a flat surface, a height gage, and a sharpie.
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The above statement i consider a term of endearment
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Old 07-09-2014, 7:39 AM
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All you need is a flat surface, a height gage, and a sharpie.
I think drills might be in order too...

No, you need an indicator; how else are you going to ensure you have the aforementioned flat surface oriented normal to the spindle?

Indicate the top of the frame to ensure it is level (or your surface), indicate the top of the frame to ensure orientation (parallel with one of the axis), and indicate the takedown hole for location, easy.

Finally, an indicator will be WAY more accurate than scribing a line. A skilled person might be able to eyeball within a couple of thousandths but that same skilled person could probably indicate within tenths.
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Old 07-09-2014, 7:43 AM
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If anybody decides to sell their jig after they are finished feel free to send me a PM
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  #7  
Old 07-10-2014, 4:27 AM
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I think that the only reason to have or build a jig is so that if you screw up you are not screwing up the product. If you have a mill, tools and are competent about reading prints and your ability to machine parts then you have absolutely no need for a Jig. (Just my observation..)
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:11 PM
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A jig helps
Yes - everything can be done with simple measuring but jigs make it easier

Just look at the 80% ar setups

Make the jig and only set it up once for all of the side holes
although you will have to set up 2 more times for the rails and the disconector

I'm doing a jig for my 40% for exactly that reason
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by animal661 View Post
A jig helps
Yes - everything can be done with simple measuring but jigs make it easier

Just look at the 80% ar setups

Make the jig and only set it up once for all of the side holes
although you will have to set up 2 more times for the rails and the disconector

I'm doing a jig for my 40% for exactly that reason
Only advantage to a jig is it makes the side holes doable on a drill press. If you have a mill, cartesian coordinates are the way to go.

How many frames do you have to drill out before the time spent making the jig is offset by the reduced setup time from using a drill press/jig combo? I suspect the answer is more than most of us are ever going to do.
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  #10  
Old 07-19-2014, 4:14 AM
tr6guns tr6guns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by animal661 View Post
A jig helps
Yes - everything can be done with simple measuring but jigs make it easier

Just look at the 80% ar setups

Make the jig and only set it up once for all of the side holes
although you will have to set up 2 more times for the rails and the disconector

I'm doing a jig for my 40% for exactly that reason
If you are referring to a 40% 1911 you are going to set up a lot more times than that. Set up for Milling thickness of Frame, The height of the frame, The distance between the center of the slide stop and the standing lug impact surface,the Feed ramp, Barrel seat, Disconnector, Main spring housing width and Rails, Main spring slot, Mag release hole, Plunger tube holes, Ejector holes, cutting the radius for the hammer and sear, then the rest of the holes..
That's a lot of setups to incorporate into a Jig that's going to do it all...
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  #11  
Old 07-19-2014, 4:18 AM
edgerly779 edgerly779 is offline
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The jig acts as a holder for the frame it is easier to index in mill as I just use parallels to set level in mill. Makes drilling the holes much easier i don't have to indicate anything just like the ar jig.
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  #12  
Old 07-20-2014, 6:30 AM
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When you are doing a 80% all the intricate angles and hard work is done for you already, so if you setup and indicate a 2X4X6 block that's all you need. And I would caution anyone about using regular drill bits to drill straight through the frame in one shot. I use 2 flute carbide spade bits that will drill without deflection. You can get them in close to the right size then ream to finish size..
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  #13  
Old 07-20-2014, 6:50 AM
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Originally Posted by tr6guns View Post
When you are doing a 80% all the intricate angles and hard work is done for you already, so if you setup and indicate a 2X4X6 block that's all you need. And I would caution anyone about using regular drill bits to drill straight through the frame in one shot. I use 2 flute carbide spade bits that will drill without deflection. You can get them in close to the right size then ream to finish size..
What size bits do you recommend?
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2014, 4:41 AM
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Go by the Blueprints, on the 80% the only two holes that you have to drill are the Hammer and Sear which are Hammer 5/32" or .1562", and Sear 7/64" or .1094". If you are doing a 40% use the one for the hammer for the Main spring housing pin and the Slide safety hole. I get mine from Enco Tools..
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=625
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