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  #41  
Old 02-21-2010, 11:15 AM
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Wonder if my wife's cricket could cut out the stencils
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  #42  
Old 02-21-2010, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craneman View Post
very nice work. The only question I have is. What is the type of tape used when doing the etching? Where do you get it? Thnaks for any info on this.
http://www.uscutterdirect.com/ORACAL...oll_p_105.html
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  #43  
Old 02-21-2010, 11:46 AM
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That's cheating with a mill...
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  #44  
Old 02-21-2010, 6:41 PM
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That's cheating with a mill...

i agree. Let me come by and cheat a bit too =). My QL came out ok but i'll be doing a new one later
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  #45  
Old 02-22-2010, 7:32 AM
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VaderSpade-
I have a couple questions about the etching process. You mention 'weeding' the stencil. What does that mean?
What kind of tape are you using for adhering the stencil and masking off areas?
Do you set the charger to the full 12 V when you do this?
And finally, do you have a rough measurement ratio on salt to vinegar?

Answers
The stencil is placed on the receiver with the letters in place. The letters or graphics are then “weeded out”, this makes the stencil easier to place, and gives a solid surface to work against. You will need a magnifying glass (I double up reading glasses) and a long needle to carefully remove (weed) the parts you want etched.
The stencils are cut from vinyl designed for sign making;
http://www.uscutter.com/GreenStar-In...ll_p_1020.html
My charger is set to the full 12 volts @ 10 amps. The amps that trickle through are determined by how much surface area is contacted by the Q-tip.
I should say large open areas do not work as well as smaller outlines.
I use about ˝ cup of vinegar and a teaspoon of salt.
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  #46  
Old 02-22-2010, 9:22 AM
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Thanks for sharing, so much fun to see and read this. I'm envious too of course looks like a lot of fun, very rewarding.
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  #47  
Old 02-22-2010, 2:29 PM
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Vader- how do you like the bucket heater for the sealer? Does the bucket hold up to the heat? I accidentally boiled my sealer on a hot plate and ruined it.
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  #48  
Old 02-22-2010, 4:11 PM
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Vader- how do you like the bucket heater for the sealer? Does the bucket hold up to the heat? I accidentally boiled my sealer on a hot plate and ruined it.
It works well, but you need a double batch of sealer, and you still need to tilt the bucket to cover the element (which you MUST do). All and all for the price ($75.00) I would stick to a hot plate and stainless steel pot.
The bucket is pooching out a little at the bottom from the heat.
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  #49  
Old 02-22-2010, 4:59 PM
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Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
It works well, but you need a double batch of sealer, and you still need to tilt the bucket to cover the element (which you MUST do). All and all for the price ($75.00) I would stick to a hot plate and stainless steel pot.
The bucket is pooching out a little at the bottom from the heat.
large crock pots are good for cleaner, dye and sealer baths as well
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  #50  
Old 02-26-2010, 9:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
VaderSpade-
I have a couple questions about the etching process. You mention 'weeding' the stencil. What does that mean?
What kind of tape are you using for adhering the stencil and masking off areas?
Do you set the charger to the full 12 V when you do this?
And finally, do you have a rough measurement ratio on salt to vinegar?

Answers
The stencil is placed on the receiver with the letters in place. The letters or graphics are then “weeded out”, this makes the stencil easier to place, and gives a solid surface to work against. You will need a magnifying glass (I double up reading glasses) and a long needle to carefully remove (weed) the parts you want etched.
The stencils are cut from vinyl designed for sign making;
http://www.uscutter.com/GreenStar-In...ll_p_1020.html
My charger is set to the full 12 volts @ 10 amps. The amps that trickle through are determined by how much surface area is contacted by the Q-tip.
I should say large open areas do not work as well as smaller outlines.
I use about ˝ cup of vinegar and a teaspoon of salt.
Because of all the questions I've had on etching, I will be posting some more detailed pictures next week. Thanks
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  #51  
Old 02-26-2010, 9:32 AM
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Can you etch through an anodized finish?
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  #52  
Old 02-26-2010, 9:44 AM
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Can you etch through an anodized finish?
No, unfortunately the anodizing acts as an insulator and will not allow electricity to pass.

Damn, looks like you have some work to do.
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  #53  
Old 02-26-2010, 9:59 AM
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What is the corerect specification for the letters on a receiver? How tall are they and how deep?
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  #54  
Old 02-26-2010, 10:56 AM
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I saw somewhere that they need to be at least 1/16 tall and 3 thousandths deep, but I'm not sure just where I saw that or how reliable it is. I will look around. If anyone has a link please post it here.
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Last edited by VaderSpade; 02-26-2010 at 1:52 PM..
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  #55  
Old 02-26-2010, 11:07 AM
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Here's one. VaderSpade's right on the money.
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  #56  
Old 02-26-2010, 1:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowracer View Post
What about a chemical etch? I'm going to try etching a Punisher skull into the side of an anodized Hammerhead next week. I hear drain opener will do it.
I do clean the anodizing off the wires used to connect the lower to the power supply with lye (which is what most drain opener is). Although I think I would want to test it on a piece of scrap before I messed up a good lower.
Doing this gives off Hydrogen, which will gag a maggot and is highly flammable, so use the utmost caution!
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  #57  
Old 02-26-2010, 1:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Grumpyoldretiredcop View Post
Here's one. VaderSpade's right on the money.
Thanks for the link Grump.
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  #58  
Old 03-01-2010, 8:27 PM
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I have been getting a lot of questions on etching, so I just revised, and added more photos to the etching part of this thread.
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Last edited by VaderSpade; 03-02-2010 at 6:50 AM..
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  #59  
Old 03-06-2010, 8:28 PM
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Awesome thread Vader! Makes me want to start an AR when I finish my 1911!
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  #60  
Old 03-07-2010, 2:56 AM
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Awesome thread Vader! Makes me want to start an AR when I finish my 1911!
Thanks, How about a thread on that 1911, I plan on building a few when I recover from BRD.
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  #61  
Old 03-07-2010, 8:22 AM
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I'll try and get it up on here today. I should order the slide soon.

I really want to build an all 7050 Officer (frame and slide) then hardcoat everything.
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  #62  
Old 03-12-2010, 11:53 AM
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The talent of some of people in this forum is impressive.
Great work VaderSpade!!
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  #63  
Old 03-24-2010, 3:26 PM
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Originally Posted by woodey View Post
Can you etch through an anodized finish?
No you can not but with thick enough vinyl you just (lightley) media blast the ano off in the "weeded" area and then do the etching to correct depth... Pretty easy... Very nice job all the way around Vader!!
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  #64  
Old 03-30-2010, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
I saw somewhere that they need to be at least 1/16 tall and 3 thousandths deep, but I'm not sure just where I saw that or how reliable it is. I will look around. If anyone has a link please post it here.

1/16th" (0.0625") tall and .003" deep minimum for the serial number.

No height requirement for the other info. Only the .003" depth requirement.

Also this CFR applies to manufacturers. While the ATF "recommends" that home built firearms have a serial number to help with theft recovery there is no reg defining the specs of the serial number.

And Mr. Vader Spade. You sir are a true craftsman. I am thoroughly impressed. Well done.
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  #65  
Old 03-30-2010, 3:31 AM
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in on this one
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  #66  
Old 06-05-2010, 3:24 PM
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I bought 2 recievers and the jig from Tactical Machining. I have the same type mill, also. I am wondering where you sourced the long mill.
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  #67  
Old 06-05-2010, 4:40 PM
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Here:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/Machine-To...000000996.HTML
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  #68  
Old 06-05-2010, 6:20 PM
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Hey Vaderspade, when you said you buggered up a few cuts on the drill press, what damage was done? And how fast were you going with the DP?
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  #69  
Old 06-05-2010, 6:54 PM
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The CNC jig doesn’t have any real bearing surface on the bottom. When milling on the drill press it rocks a little leaving some uneven cuts. Nothing too bad. I was going slow.
The Tactical Machining jig has a large bearing surface. I think anyone could do a much better job with their jig.
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Old 06-05-2010, 7:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
The CNC jig doesn’t have any real bearing surface on the bottom. When milling on the drill press it rocks a little leaving some uneven cuts. Nothing too bad. I was going slow.
The Tactical Machining jig has a large bearing surface. I think anyone could do a much better job with their jig.
What do you think about combining the CNC jig with an X/Y vise like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...ise-32997.html


Or this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-...ise-94276.html
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Old 06-05-2010, 8:41 PM
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Better than just a drill press, almost a mini mill. I think it would do a fine job with an 80% lower.
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  #72  
Old 06-05-2010, 8:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cokebottle View Post
What do you think about combining the CNC jig with an X/Y vise like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...ise-32997.html


Or this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-inch-...ise-94276.html
I used that exact "China-Vise" from eBay ($50).

What can I say.... it works, but a milling table is preferred.
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  #73  
Old 06-06-2010, 2:10 PM
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I've been all over Enco and MSC, the longest 3/8 shank 5/16 endmill is about 3 1/2 ". Yours looks like 5 or 6 ".
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  #74  
Old 06-06-2010, 2:34 PM
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I've been all over Enco and MSC, the longest 3/8 shank 5/16 endmill is about 3 1/2 ". Yours looks like 5 or 6 ".
Are you talking about the end mill used to cut the trigger slot? It seems to me that it's right aroung 3.5'', not 6 inches
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  #75  
Old 06-07-2010, 8:15 PM
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The first vice pictured has a lot of slop to it, I have one and while it does work ok, getting one with less slop/backlash, you'll be much happier in the long run

Croc4
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  #76  
Old 06-07-2010, 8:22 PM
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The first vice pictured has a lot of slop to it, I have one and while it does work ok, getting one with less slop/backlash, you'll be much happier in the long run
I got the second one.
$55 in the store.

Got home... wife went through the junk mail and there was an HF flyer including a free LED light (no purchase required), and a 20% coupon.

Now I need to decide what I want to use the 20% on
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Originally Posted by dantodd View Post
A just gov't will not be overthrown by force or violence because the people have no incentive to overthrow a just gov't. If a minority of people attempt such an insurrection to grab power and enslave the people, the RKBA is our insurance against their success.
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  #77  
Old 06-07-2010, 8:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Cokebottle View Post
I got the second one.
$55 in the store.

Got home... wife went through the junk mail and there was an HF flyer including a free LED light (no purchase required), and a 20% coupon.

Now I need to decide what I want to use the 20% on
You can always ask calgunners for a 20% online coupon
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  #78  
Old 06-07-2010, 8:38 PM
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just a quick word of caution here folks-
if you are going to use one of these x-y tables on your DP, don't try to use it like a real mill.
take very gentle, light cuts only. drill press chucks and spindles are meant to take axial loads only, not lateral ones.
mill horizontally on your DP too much and if you're lucky all you will cause is nasty runout... if you're not so lucky, you'll launch the chuck and damage your workpiece, the DP, the shop, your other property, and/or yourself.
using an x-y table to position your workpiece for drilling ops is no problem at all. but adding one to your DP does NOT make it a mill.
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  #79  
Old 06-07-2010, 8:51 PM
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Absolutely.

Even the guide that comes with the CNC jig cautions to only take cuts .025 at a time.
95% of the "work" is done by the 1/8" and 3/8" drill bits. The mill work is only for smoothing the sides and bottom.
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A just gov't will not be overthrown by force or violence because the people have no incentive to overthrow a just gov't. If a minority of people attempt such an insurrection to grab power and enslave the people, the RKBA is our insurance against their success.
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by goober View Post
just a quick word of caution here folks-
if you are going to use one of these x-y tables on your DP, don't try to use it like a real mill.
take very gentle, light cuts only. drill press chucks and spindles are meant to take axial loads only, not lateral ones.
mill horizontally on your DP too much and if you're lucky all you will cause is nasty runout... if you're not so lucky, you'll launch the chuck and damage your workpiece, the DP, the shop, your other property, and/or yourself.
using an x-y table to position your workpiece for drilling ops is no problem at all. but adding one to your DP does NOT make it a mill.
+1 I tried the first method on my first TM 80% lower. The DP table flexed while trying to hog out too much material at one time (1/4" depth) and I really gouged one side of the FC pocket. Subsequent cuts were only .025 - .030" deep and all was well. As I got closer to the sides I would only cut using 1/3 of the end mill diameter, .020" depth and feed speed was about 1/2" per minute.

Also, I used a Shars x-y table as it was more precise vs. the cross slide vices @ Harbor Freight.
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