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  #1  
Old 12-19-2009, 9:54 PM
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23 Blast 23 Blast is offline
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Default Savage Model 10 trigger job

I own a savage m10, in .308. I bought it used, because i was excited by the low selling price and that it was in a caliber I already stock. Anyway, long story short, this is a pre-Accutrigger Savage and as a result, the trigger on this gun is really gritty and rather heavy.

What's the best route for getting a nice, smooth, clean-breaking trigger? Swapping out parts? Professional gunsmith? DIY?

Although this is the heavy-barrel model and came with a nice 4-12x40 scope, I'm mainly a plinker and not a long range competitor. Still, having a clean trigger would go a long way to increasing my enjoyment.
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  #2  
Old 12-19-2009, 10:53 PM
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I dont know but if you wanna try my 30-06 see if the trigger is different? LMK if youwant to change to a 308 caliber ill trade you barrels
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  #3  
Old 12-19-2009, 11:20 PM
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Here is a great place to get Savage parts, I have a few of their triggers and they are crisp and light.

http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/
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  #4  
Old 12-21-2009, 2:55 PM
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You can get a great trigger out of the older stock triggers but it takes some know-how. I have worked over a few savages and can get as low as 8oz consistently and keeping the safety working. If I go lighter its just not safe.

The procedure below is purely for educational reasons and I in no way responsible for problems if someone does this.

By cutting the surface area of the sear down 50% you are removing 50% of the friction. Using a mill (could also use a dremal) cut 25% and 25% from each side of the sear. This will leave the sear with a center nub that is half the size. Using a fine sharpening stones (I like ceramic) and a vice to keep the correct angle, lightly smooth and true the sears edges. (DO NOT take off metal and do not round the sear edge, you are only polishing. Rounding the sear edge will make the trigger unsafe. Taking off metal will remove the hardened metal edge and will make the trigger unsafe over time.) Do the same for the trigger shelf edge which holds the sear back and remember to keep that edge sharp and in its original angle. Next using a dremel and a polishing compound, polish all the point on the trigger assembly that rub. For example, the trigger housing/bracket where it contacts with the trigger or the pin holding everything together. If it moves when you work the trigger, polish it. Do not include the sear engagement area that we already worked on. Fishing it off with a very light oiling on the moving parts (not on the sear engagement!). Once that is done lighten the tension bar enough so it still has pressure but not much and adjust the trigger screws to get your desired creep/weight/overtravel. This part takes some time to figure out and is different for each rifle. Always make sure the safety still works and the gun will not dryfire when bumped or dropped. I will lightly drop the rifle down a number of times from different angles before I deem it safe to take to the range and put in a live round. I would highly recommend you never drop the trigger pull below 1lbs on anything other than a bench gun. Triggers that low are IMO too sensitive to be carried with a round in the chamber.

Working on a bolt action is a great way to learn how to do trigger jobs. They are relativity simple and cheap to replace if you do f-up. if you have any doubt at all, i'd recommend just buying a new drop in trigger or taking it to a smith.
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2009, 2:57 PM
professionalcoyotehunter professionalcoyotehunter is offline
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I looked for a timney trigger for mine today but could not locate one!
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2009, 3:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by professionalcoyotehunter View Post
I looked for a timney trigger for mine today but could not locate one!
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3...weight_Trigger
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  #7  
Old 12-21-2009, 3:10 PM
professionalcoyotehunter professionalcoyotehunter is offline
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Thanks!

Where would I get this installed at?

Last edited by professionalcoyotehunter; 12-21-2009 at 3:26 PM..
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  #8  
Old 12-21-2009, 3:27 PM
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did you look into the jard triggers
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2009, 3:27 PM
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I have a Timney in my Savage 16, it was simple to install, easy to adjust and well worth the money.
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2009, 3:29 PM
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I have a basix and a timney. Both adjustable, drop-in, and around $100 each.

http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Brow...146***11790***

If you have a C&R knock $15 off.
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  #11  
Old 12-21-2009, 4:23 PM
Fjold Fjold is offline
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http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage/
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