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  #1  
Old 07-30-2009, 7:22 PM
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Default Electro Etching an AR-15 80% lower.

Half the fun of building a gun is putting your own mark on it. I have been experimenting with different methods, and electro etching is the best method I have found so far (I have ideas for improvements).

I started by trying sandblasting. I bought some resist tape cut out my pattern put it on a piece of scrap and blasted away. It worked O.K. BUT the air pressure lifted the finer tips and such, so it was back to the drawing board.

Using the same resist tape I tried electro etching, and the results were much better.

I am etching with a jewelry plating power source but a battery charger will work (not an automatic one).

I mixed white vinegar with a little salt, dipped a Q-tip into this solution and attached it to the negative side of the charger, then clamped the positive side to the lower.

It took longer than I was told (about one hour and 10 Q-tips), but I think it turned out nice.

Here is my most recent effort.


I started by drawing my pattern.


Cutting the pattern


Hooked up ready to go.


Making little bubbles.


After cleanup with the sandblaster.

Last edited by VaderSpade; 07-30-2009 at 7:28 PM..
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Old 07-30-2009, 7:46 PM
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That's rather good! How deep would you say it went into the material? Deep enough to meet the ATF requirements?

Very interesting... I supposed less time would be a shallower burn. 3d etching into your lower....
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Old 07-30-2009, 7:48 PM
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i can see lots of potential w/ photo-reactive stencils here....
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Old 07-31-2009, 2:53 PM
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Wow that looks good. Would this work on anodized pieces too?
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Old 07-31-2009, 8:25 PM
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Nice results.......
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Old 07-31-2009, 8:39 PM
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I've seen this method used for ak trunnion markings and more authentic selector markings on ak receivers. I thought it would only work on steel. That turned out nice.
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Old 07-31-2009, 8:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krazy View Post
Wow that looks good. Would this work on anodized pieces too?
No.
The anodizing acts as insulation.
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Old 08-01-2009, 6:56 PM
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The Finishing Touches.

I anodized three lowers today, and they came out great.

Pictures do not do this justice, the flash made it hard to get a good picture, and it's too late for natural light.





Tomorrow I put it all together, and go shooting.
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Old 08-04-2009, 5:27 PM
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Looks good

For the record, Yes. You can go deep enough for ATF regs. You'll just need to keep at it for a while. It takes me about 1.5 hours to etch all the ID markings and "safe/fire" marks.

Again, good job Vader.
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Old 08-04-2009, 5:52 PM
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hmmm...

We do some very simple photoresist/mask stuff for high school students that would translate really well for this.

You would get really clean edges (no cutting required) as you could use any B/W printed transparency to do the developing in sunlight.

Let me get the materials list and the how-to - if you want to try it.
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Old 08-04-2009, 5:55 PM
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that looks very labor intensive and meticulous. I applaud your effort and result.
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uclaplinker View Post
hmmm...

We do some very simple photoresist/mask stuff for high school students that would translate really well for this.

You would get really clean edges (no cutting required) as you could use any B/W printed transparency to do the developing in sunlight.

Let me get the materials list and the how-to - if you want to try it.
thats what i was getting at...
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:49 PM
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qbertquartz2 View Post
yes thats one of several commercial products that do what VaderSpade did w/ very cheap OTS materials.
note that the "in seconds" marking is very superficial... not really akin to engraving as much as just shallow etching or frosting.
that company also sells photostencil materials & gear at a considerably inflated (IMO) price.
but yes it works.
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Old 08-05-2009, 12:22 AM
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Very cool!

Can you share info about the electrical source - Watts, Volts, Amps?

I wonder if you could do as deep an etching with the photo type stencils.
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Old 08-05-2009, 7:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamsreeftank View Post
Very cool!

Can you share info about the electrical source - Watts, Volts, Amps?

I wonder if you could do as deep an etching with the photo type stencils.
I used a jewelry plating power source; except for meters, and an adjustment knob which gives you a little more control it’s no different than a battery charger. As I had it cranked all the way up the control made no difference.

My power source adjusts from 0-15 watts DC; amps are dependent on surface area exposure. I had it cranked to 15 watts (for the marking), the amp gauge barley moved.

I used the same power source for anodizing again cranked to 15 watts; with a larger surface area the amps went to 10 (meter goes to 35).

I have read that you need to watch the heat on the stencil. I was using a rubberized sandblast resist that was pretty tough, if you were using thinner plastic stencil and/or more power I could see it being a problem.
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Old 08-05-2009, 7:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uclaplinker View Post
hmmm...

We do some very simple photoresist/mask stuff for high school students that would translate really well for this.

You would get really clean edges (no cutting required) as you could use any B/W printed transparency to do the developing in sunlight.

Let me get the materials list and the how-to - if you want to try it.
Id like to know more about this. It would be an interesting project for just things around the house.
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Old 08-05-2009, 8:11 AM
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cool. for sharper detail you could have professional mask cut on a sign plotter.
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Old 08-05-2009, 8:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
I used a jewelry plating power source; except for meters, and an adjustment knob which gives you a little more control it’s no different than a battery charger. As I had it cranked all the way up the control made no difference.

My power source adjusts from 0-15 watts DC; amps are dependent on surface area exposure. I had it cranked to 15 watts (for the marking), the amp gauge barley moved.

I used the same power source for anodizing again cranked to 15 watts; with a larger surface area the amps went to 10 (meter goes to 35).

I have read that you need to watch the heat on the stencil. I was using a rubberized sandblast resist that was pretty tough, if you were using thinner plastic stencil and/or more power I could see it being a problem.
yes i think if your stencil material is vulnerable to melting or softening, then shorter duration applications of current are required in order to keep temps down, which will likely lengthen the overall time required. but if photo-stencils greatly simplify stencil creation and allow greater detail, it may be well worth it in at least some cases.
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2009, 8:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goober_0 View Post
yes i think if your stencil material is vulnerable to melting or softening, then shorter duration applications of current are required in order to keep temps down, which will likely lengthen the overall time required. but if photo-stencils greatly simplify stencil creation and allow greater detail, it may be well worth it in at least some cases.
Agreed, we need fine detail for serial numbers and such.
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Old 08-05-2009, 4:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krazy View Post
Id like to know more about this. It would be an interesting project for just things around the house.
In the homebuilt guitar effects community, there's a bunch of folks that etch their aluminum stompbox enclosures. It's a variation on the techniques used to etch circuit boards, just applied to the aluminum box rather than the copper-clad circuit board blank. Many of the techniques should transfer over to gun stuff, not to mention other types of craft projects.

Here's a few links to get started.

Aron's Stompbox etching tutorial

FreeStompboxes Enclosure Etching forum thread
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Old 09-07-2009, 7:27 AM
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Well, I finely made it to the next step.

I bought a vinyl cutter a while ago, but needed to find the time to learn how to use it.

This effort was hampered by the fact I could not get my computer to talk to it. Most of the instructions were in Chinese, and only told how to assemble the hardware. I got on line and got instructions from several places including nice people on forums just like we have here.
ALL of the instructions started with “plug the cutter into your computer, when the new hardware wizard pops up follow the prompts”. The problem was the new hardware wizard pop never popped up, on any of my computers. The factory told me that they could link into my computer long distance and fix the problem.
Say what??? You want to be able to have access to my computer from who knows where???
I don’t think so!!

My son was here for the Labor Day weekend. He’s computer wiz and it took him four hours to fix the problem.
He said it was straight forward WHEN you finely find the right path, but the disc that came with the cutter is meant to be used with dozens of different models, and pre-dated Vista.
All the while I wasn’t even sure I would be able to make stencils small enough to put serial numbers on AR’s. All the Sign shops I talked to said it couldn’t be done.
Well I did it, and they turned out great.

Trial run

Today I will electro etch a piece of scrap to see if the vinyl will take the heat.
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Old 09-07-2009, 10:24 AM
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YOU can sand blast through the anodize if it is masked ok and only etched area is showing... So etch, ano and blast. your GTG.
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Old 09-08-2009, 12:03 AM
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that sucks you had so much trouble with the software. I wish I could have helped Im pretty good with computers I might have been able to talk you through it.
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Old 09-10-2009, 1:10 PM
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where did you get the jewelery plating thing can you get something like that at a Radioshack?
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Old 09-10-2009, 3:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evollep3 View Post
where did you get the jewelery plating thing can you get something like that at a Radioshack?
I am a jeweler so I just happened to have it, but I’m told a 12-volt battery charger (non-automatic type) works just as good.
The outfit I got my anodizing equipment sells high-end power suppliers, which are the same thing. The only advantage these power supplies have is that they are a little more adjustable.
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Old 09-10-2009, 3:33 PM
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well i guess im really have to make a trip out to redding now
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Old 09-10-2009, 3:39 PM
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It would be fun to get together with a fellow CalGunner and learn from each other.

Deer season is coming so give me a few days notice.
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Old 09-10-2009, 3:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
I am a jeweler so I just happened to have it, but I’m told a 12-volt battery charger (non-automatic type) works just as good.
The outfit I got my anodizing equipment sells high-end power suppliers, which are the same thing. The only advantage these power supplies have is that they are a little more adjustable.
Hey VaderSpade,

you think it would be possible to Rhodium plate these lowers instead of sending them to be anodized? (my family has a jewelry store as well) I wouldnt know of the downsides or cons of doing this, but Im assuming it wouldnt be as tough as the anodizing. It would be interesting to have a gold plated AR... lol kinda like those gold AKs
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Old 09-10-2009, 7:07 PM
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Quote:
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Hey VaderSpade,

you think it would be possible to Rhodium plate these lowers instead of sending them to be anodized? (my family has a jewelry store as well) I wouldn't know of the downsides or cons of doing this, but I'm assuming it wouldn't be as tough as the anodizing. It would be interesting to have a gold plated AR... lol kinda like those gold AKs
Very possible, and in the works. I bought a Golden Gun - SiAl Bronze Lower from; https://www.vbd.com/noc/shop/product...&ProductID=127

I plan to gold plate it when I get it finished. I have gallons of both 18K plate and Rhodium plate. The price of Rhodium hit $10,000.00 per ounce last year. I should have sold.
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Old 09-10-2009, 7:38 PM
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I think I have this figured out. It is slow going, but cheaper than a CNC.



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Old 09-10-2009, 9:03 PM
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That'd be awesome! Do post pics! Rhodium solution is expensive as is, i cant believe how much precious metal prices have gone up. Good for our business though, which is weird.
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Old 09-11-2009, 7:51 PM
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Well I think I got this whipped.

Here's the latest;
The markings seem as deep as any store bought lower (they are deeper than they look in the photos). This is as deep as I can make them with these stencils. The dots in the a's and e's start to lift off at this point. I have some fine jewelry tools; I may mess around with making the serial numbers a little deeper. It should be easy to follow what's here.

I put the name and city to the right above the selector.


Driver’s side.


Passenger’s side.
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Old 09-12-2009, 5:35 PM
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Looks great VS! Makes me wish I had the tools to do my own 80%
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Old 09-13-2009, 7:54 AM
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A few tips in response to some questions I've received.

A cheap NON automatic automobile battery charger 12 volt, 10 amp should work fine.

An automatic automobile battery charger would read a dead short and turn itself off.

One thing I learned the hard way is that the positive side needs to be connected to the lower and the negative side to the Q-Tip. I got it backward once and it ate away the clip holding the Q-Tip, and barely marked the work piece (in this case just a piece of scrap).

If the bare clip touches bare metal there will be sparks, tape off the surrounding area.

I recommend testing any setup on a piece of scrap before trying it on a lower.

If I have the time, and you post pictures of the results here I will cut a few stencils if you have an 80% ready to go. I don't want to be cutting stencils for anyone that MAY one day want to mark a lower.
Priority will be given to builders that have shared there knowledge and experience here on the boards.

I will cut text only (no time for art work). PM for details, but note that deer season starts on Sept. 19th, and I plan to spend all my extra time hunting, so I will need to squeeze this in.

At some point in the near future I will post pictures and instructions on how to place and "weed" the stencils. You will need VERY strong reading glasses.

Example of text;

Manufacture
City State
Model
Caliber
serial #

Max is 10 maybe 12 letters/numbers per line.

If you want room for art work the Manufacture and city should be moved to above the hammer pin/selector area.
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaderSpade View Post
I think I have this figured out. It is slow going, but cheaper than a CNC.



Hey look, another use for the mag well plug!

Looks great Vader! Good use of the 7075 scrap too.
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:45 AM
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Nice job Vader.

I recently did some etching on a friends revolver. This technique works on brass as well, but I modified the electrolyte solution a little (saltwater and vinegar). check it out. It looks a little pitted, but in person it looks great. The macro function on my camera picks up more detail than the naked eye.
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Old 02-08-2010, 8:50 PM
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Finally got mine etched tonight, thanks to VaderSpade. Should look pretty good after cleanup. I used a 12 volt, 0.75 amp power supply from my junkbox.

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Old 02-08-2010, 9:24 PM
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That's awesome work Grump!
Did you use a stencil or photo resist paper?
The Q-tip method right?
What was the salt to water ratio?
I plan to do mine this weekend......want to make sure I don't screw it up.
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Old 02-09-2010, 8:17 AM
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Grumpyoldretiredcop Grumpyoldretiredcop is offline
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Used a vinyl stencil that VaderSpade was kind enough to make up for me and the Q-tip method, although I used regular vinegar instead of white (that's what I had on hand). About 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a 3-ounce cup of vinegar. I washed the receiver in detergent afterwards, followed by spraying with contact cleaner to ensure that no acid residue remained.

Note: That vinegar/salt mix will eat the bottom out of a 3-ounce Dixie cup in a couple of hours. My workbench might never be the same - it'll certainly never smell quite the same...
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