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Curio & Relic/Black Powder Curio & Relics and Black Powder Firearms, Old School shooting fun!

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  #1  
Old 06-11-2009, 12:26 PM
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Default Enfield stuck bolt problem

Just got my Enfield yesterday (1953 Ishapore) and I put the bolt in but the bolt handle was stuck down in place after I had it in and I couldn't get it up.

I got it up a little bit after a big of muscling but now the bolt handle won't go all the way up and it's stopped at the catch(?) (excuse the improper terminology).

I oiled it and tried tapping it with the rubber handle portion of a hammer. Wasn't sure what would be too much force and damage it.
What you see in the picture is the best I've gotten it.

Ideas?




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  #2  
Old 06-11-2009, 12:46 PM
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First, make sure the rifle is not on "safe". When on safe, the bolt will not open, close, or fire.

If that doesn't work:

Put the bolt back in place as if about to fire.
Cock the bolt manually (pull the striker tab on the back, don't try moving the bolt).
The rifle should now open normally.


If this solution fixes the problem, completely disassemble the bolt. What is happening is the firing pin is either installed incorrectly or the firing pin retainer screw is installed incorrectly. PM me for detailed instructions.
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  #3  
Old 06-11-2009, 1:21 PM
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Also the safety may 'out of time' so to speak. If it has been assembled improperly even when the safety appears to be in the off position it can still foul the bolt and stop it from being manipulated. The fix is to remove the safety assembly and properly position the safety tab on the stud with the threads on it.
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  #4  
Old 06-11-2009, 3:52 PM
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+1 to that. The safety can actually be installed in about 4 or 5 different positions, only one of which is correct.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2009, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusader View Post
Put the bolt back in place as if about to fire.
Cock the bolt manually (pull the striker tab on the back, don't try moving the bolt).
The rifle should now open normally.
It worked! woohoo! It doesn't have that problem anymore after about 20 dry fires.
Is this still safe to fire or should I take it in?
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  #6  
Old 06-12-2009, 1:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamez View Post
It worked! woohoo! It doesn't have that problem anymore after about 20 dry fires.
Is this still safe to fire or should I take it in?
No! Do not fire it.

Here's (relatively) detailed instructions:

Disassemble the bolt. Remove the bolt head by unscrewing it. Use the Enfield bolt tool to remove the firing pin. Use a screwdriver to remove the pin out the back of the striker tab.

After cleaning and light oiling, reassemble the bolt. Screw the firing pin back in place until it is just inside being flush with the back of the striker tab (inside flush as in towards the chamber).
Make sure the slot in the firing pin lines up with the space into which the small screw is put back in place.

When you have the firing pin screwed in so that it is just slightly inside the striker tab, and so that the slot matches up with the whole the small screw goes into, put the screw back in. That screw holds the firing pin in place and prevents it from undoing itself.

I realize I may be difficult to understand through typing. If you need help, PM me.
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Old 06-12-2009, 4:28 PM
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If you are going to be in the bay area (alameda) I would be happy to help. Have the bolt tool.
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2009, 8:25 PM
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I'm about to check but is there a YouTube video of this or some pictures?
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2009, 8:35 PM
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Do I NEED a bolt tool? I don't have one
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2009, 8:42 PM
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If the bolt is the same as a M4, this might help.
http://www.surplusrifle.com/no4/bolt...mbly/index.asp
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  #11  
Old 06-12-2009, 9:09 PM
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Ok, thanks that helps.
If I can dry fire it and it clicks is there still a problem with the firing pin? Just curious. Thanks!
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2009, 9:20 PM
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I have a post in another thread which some of you have seen. I got the replacement firing pin and spring, and the tool, but I am not sure how to proceed. Is it just very hard to turn, or am I trying to turn the wrong part? The book implies I need to hold the firing pin with the tool and unscrew something else. The online link looks more obvious and is what I have been trying.

And just in case, yes I unscrewed the screw at the back end of the cocking piece.

Does the position of the cocking piece matter? I have it in the normal straight up and down position.
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2009, 11:31 PM
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To disassemble the bolt yes u will need the bolt disassembly tool. I got mine frm ebay
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2009, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarecrow Repair View Post
I have a post in another thread which some of you have seen. I got the replacement firing pin and spring, and the tool, but I am not sure how to proceed. Is it just very hard to turn, or am I trying to turn the wrong part? The book implies I need to hold the firing pin with the tool and unscrew something else. The online link looks more obvious and is what I have been trying.

And just in case, yes I unscrewed the screw at the back end of the cocking piece.

Does the position of the cocking piece matter? I have it in the normal straight up and down position.
When screwing in the firing pin using the Enfield bolt tool, you will initially need to push down somewhat hard to overcome the resistance of the firing pin spring. After that, it should screw in fairly easy. And if the firing pin retaining screw in the back has been taken out, the pin should screw in with no problems at all.
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Old 06-13-2009, 6:46 AM
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I haven't got far enough to worry about putting the firing pin back in :-) My problem is wondering how much force to use taking it out. Instinct and the online guide say to hold the bolt in one hand and unscrew (ccw) with the tool. The book I have says to unscrew the striking piece from the rear. Also, the comment about buying two tools because the prongs have a habit of coming off makes me not want to put too much force into unscrewing it -- it is very stubborn. If it were a lug nut on a flat tire, I'd be jumping on the dang thing.

Do I just turn as hard as possible, possible using a well-padded vise to hold the bolt?
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  #16  
Old 06-13-2009, 11:08 AM
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If you can't remove the firing pin by holding the bolt in one hand and the tool in the other and just turning, there is something wrong.

Even if the entire firing pin was encased in cosmo it shouldn't be that hard. It's possible the previous owner used loc-tite on the firing pin. Otherwise, I don't really know, I've never had that problem.
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Old 06-13-2009, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusader View Post
If you can't remove the firing pin by holding the bolt in one hand and the tool in the other and just turning, there is something wrong.

Even if the entire firing pin was encased in cosmo it shouldn't be that hard. It's possible the previous owner used loc-tite on the firing pin. Otherwise, I don't really know, I've never had that problem.
Alright. I have used enough force to leave red marks from the tool handle on my palms, so I won't get out the vise. Maybe I'll take it to the "local" (30 miles away) gun shop, see if he has any ideas.

Or maybe I should just order a new bolt from Numrich. Are the N4 Mk1 and Mk2 compatible? I have heard many times that bolts and receivers should not be mixed up. Is that a concern here, if I get a new bolt? And I also notice there are different heads, meant for differing amounts of headspacing. Is that a problem, should I swap heads to continue using the current head wit the new bolt, or not worry about it?

Bummer. I was practicing my rapid fire every weekend and getting better.

Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 06-13-2009, 1:42 PM
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Nominally the bolts are of the same length but on a practical basis that is not the case. They also sometimes need to be fitted to have both lugs seat properly. are you turning the tool in the correct direction?
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2009, 6:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smle-man View Post
Nominally the bolts are of the same length but on a practical basis that is not the case. They also sometimes need to be fitted to have both lugs seat properly. are you turning the tool in the correct direction?
Counterclockwise from the bolt head with the cocking piece away, just like a regular screw. Please tell me that is wrong, that this has reverse threads. I don't mind looking like a fool if it saves a few bucks :-)
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:09 AM
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Nope - you are not wrong it is normal threads and not reverse. It should not be that hard. You have the locking screw out so I would try either some Kroil and/or some gentle heat to the head. All of the ones I have done just screwed out. It does sound like locktight which will loosen under heat.
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  #21  
Old 06-15-2009, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxx424 View Post
Nope - you are not wrong it is normal threads and not reverse. It should not be that hard. You have the locking screw out so I would try either some Kroil and/or some gentle heat to the head. All of the ones I have done just screwed out. It does sound like locktight which will loosen under heat.
I took it to a friend with a N4 Mk1 and he can get his firing pin out. Part of the problem may be that the firing pin broke right where the two notches are, meaning that when I try to unscrew, only one prong is pushing against the remnant. The other is either pushing against the broken tip (if I put it back in) or against nothing, and I suspect that pushes the remnant into the bolt wall.

I'm going to take it to a gunsmith. Worst case, he destroys the bolt itself and I have to buy a replacement, which would be my next step otherwise. I don't think it's frozen chemically, I think it is digging into the bolt wall from an uneven force trying to unscrew it.
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  #22  
Old 06-15-2009, 1:22 PM
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If your correct you could try drilling from the backside and then tap it and put a small bolt in. Heck you could just tap in a small square drift and turn that. I'm sure a good gunsmith can get it out without damaging the bolt.
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  #23  
Old 06-19-2009, 11:09 AM
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Default Firing pin replaced and it works again

A friend helped replace the firing pin, I test fired it, and posted a pic of the broken firing pin in the other thread.

Post w/ pic
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