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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles.

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  #1  
Old 05-21-2009, 7:30 PM
ERdept ERdept is offline
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Default AR cleaning.

I know there are several threads on cleaning, so I don't need a referral to them.

Just asking your opinions on how you clean your AR's.

I feel it's sooo easy to just bore snake it, and do a field strip and clean.

But do you ever run a real rod, patch, and brush through yours?
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2009, 8:18 PM
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I used to use a cleaning rod but I got a Gunslick pull through cleaning kit and I love it. For solvent I use CLP or Hoppes.
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2009, 8:18 PM
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I clean my AR's just like I clean my bolt guns.
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  #4  
Old 05-21-2009, 8:45 PM
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I use a power washer...
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  #5  
Old 05-21-2009, 8:51 PM
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Bore snake with Hoppes #9
Disassemble and clean bolt carrier group / bolt (including extractor)
Lube bcg/bolt with thin layer of lithium grease (excluding bolt face)
Clean buffer tube & spring.
Clean and oil fire control group.
Clean and oil all outside metal surface.

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  #6  
Old 05-21-2009, 8:52 PM
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Dewey Rod, Jag

Bore guide

KG 1, 2, 3, 4, 12....

Dewey AR Chamber kit

JB bore paste, sweets, CLP, MPro7, Hoppes, etc...
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  #7  
Old 05-21-2009, 9:01 PM
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tipton cleaning rod/jag

m pro-7, hoppes solvent, oil

i only use a bore snake for quickie jobs at the range
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Old 05-21-2009, 9:05 PM
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Is it true that you aren't supposed to use hoppes in a chrome lined barrel? I usually use CLP.
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Old 05-21-2009, 9:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool88 View Post
Is it true that you aren't supposed to use hoppes in a chrome lined barrel? I usually use CLP.
I've never heard that but my barrel is stainless so it doesn't matter to me. I would think that chrome should stand up to it though.
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Old 05-21-2009, 9:21 PM
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It was supposed to be something with the ammonia being harmful to the chrome.
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Old 05-21-2009, 9:44 PM
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Shoot, shoot some more, shoot even more. After many sessions and hundreds or thousands of rounds, field strip and wipe down internals and external with CLP. Run a few patches of CLP down the pipe. Run a few dry patches down the pipe. Re-assemble and start all over again.
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2009, 9:50 PM
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Bootcamp style, with all the yelling and screaming.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2009, 9:56 PM
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I have been doing a lot of reasearch on cleaning AR-15s the last few days, because I have my first upper on the way! In no way am I speaking from experience here, I am just trying to relay some of the things I have learned. I am going to buy a carbon fiber cleaning rod instead of using the three piece rods. I am going to stay away from the bore snakes because although they clean the bore good, the actual bore snake itself is hard to clean. So I am going to use a one piece cleaning rod. There are also AR-15 breech rod guide available, so that no damage is caused by the cleaning rod. Also I guess there are special AR-15 bore brushes available. Obviously push from breech to the muzzle, never vice-versa. Now there is a lot of debate over which solvent(s) are best to clean and lubricate an AR-15. Anyways I have heard that Break Free CLP, which is a cleaner/lubricant/protectant, is one of the most common solvents. However I want to use solvents that do an individual job the right way. So I am going to go with M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner. This cleaner strips the metal from all substances, and it cleans carbon, lead and some copper out of the bore. To get the rest of the copper out of the bore I am going to use Wipe-Out foaming bore cleaner, which is a solvent made specifically to tackle copper build up. Now the AR-15 should be clean at this point, but it needs lubricant. I have heard good things about Militec-1, which offers lubricant in grease and oil form. I am planning on using the Militec-1 oil as a lubricant/preservative all over the gun, except on the metal bearing parts. I will use the Militec-1 on those parts, which include the bolt and carrier. If this process sounds confusing, I understand. I am still trying to find out if this is a good method to cleaning and lubricating my new AR-15.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2009, 12:25 AM
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When it comes to cleaning guns, I am lazy. Therefore, I prefer cleaning to an extent that is "good enough" instead of spending hours getting the rifle all pretty for a white glove inspection. The first thing I do is to separate the rifle into its upper and lower halves. The lower generally doesn't get dirty, so I just wipe off the hammer with an oil soaked cloth and consider the lower done. Then once I remove the bcg and charging handle, I spray it all down with brake cleaner. This flushes out the crud without me having to try to get it off with painstaking minutes/hours with q tips and rags. I then attach the chamber brush and clean out the chamber lugs and flush the chamber with brake cleaner again to clear out any residue. Then I clean the bore using a rod and patches/brush/jags until the patch comes out light gray. I then move on to the bolt carrier group. Using a dremel, I remove whatever caked carbon is on the tail of the bolt. From there, I scrub the bolt face using a tooth brush and spray again with brake cleaner. At this point, I consider the gun to be "good enough" clean.
Relubrication is just as easy. I just hose down the BCG, charging handle, and interior of the upper with CLP and run an oily patch through the bore followed by a dry one. Finally, I put a drop of oil on the front sight detent and reassemble. The rifle is now clean and lubed. I put it away for the day and wipe off the excess lube the next morning.
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  #15  
Old 05-22-2009, 12:29 AM
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I usually clean my guns after every range trip, but for my LWRC piston gun I'm trying not to clean it until it starts to affect performance. I want to see just how dirty it can go beyond a DI setup.
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2009, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jicko View Post
KG 1, 2, 3, 4, 12....
Ha. I thought I was the only one that uses KG products.
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2009, 5:54 AM
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I clean my rifles after every trip to prevent any rust or pitting. I use the old school military cleaning kit, 3 piece rod, chamber brush, and bore brush. I dip the chamber brush in solvent and brush the chamber until its clean. I run a patch of Hoppes #9 solvent down the bore, then dip a bore brush in solvent and run it through maybe 10 times until I look through it and it looks clean. Then I run a few dry patches down it. Then I use CLP on a patch and run it through maybe 5 times. Leaving a light coat. I use Q-tips on the inside upper receiver soaked with solvent, then dry patches, then CLP patches. I use pipe cleaners to clean the end of the gas tube. I disassemble the carrier assembly, clean with solvent, dry, then a light coat of oil. I clean all the fouling off the bolt, remove and clean the extractor, reassemble bolt. I run pipe cleaners dipped in solvent through the gas key all the way into the carrier firing pin area, then dry ones. I add 1 drop of oil inside the gas key. Then reassemble the upper. The lower i do pretty much the same thing. Hoppes solvent, dry and a light coat of oil. I also do the same thing on the exterior.

Last edited by WHenderson; 05-22-2009 at 6:01 AM..
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2009, 8:39 AM
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a couple passes with a boresnake, then rags, q-tips, brush and CLP to the BCG and upper. Then grease up with Mobil-1 synthetic grease and its ready to go!
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  #19  
Old 05-22-2009, 9:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool88 View Post
It was supposed to be something with the ammonia being harmful to the chrome.
I've heard this as well. I did a lot of research on the differences between stainless steel and chrome lined barrels, and I repeatedly ran across posts that stated that you should never use ammonated (having ammonia) cleaners on chrome lined barrels as it destroys the chrome.

I don't know the exact chemistry on this, but I figure if it might save a little barrel life, I can avoid using ammonated solvents on my chrome lined barrels.
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Old 05-22-2009, 9:19 AM
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I use Otis, and their CLP, or Break-Free CLP.

-Run a wet patch,
-Dry patch
-do that a few times (3-6 times)
-run boresnake through 1-2 times
-Clean the chamber (with brush, every 2-3 outtings)
-Check BCG for too much carbon build-up. A lil is ok, and i just leave it.
-lube the BCG and bolt.
-wipe down firing pin.

i don't want it spick and span, might clean off the finish.

that's all, i leave my barrel with lil "dirt" on a dry patch. too clean ain't to good, i guess.

No issues at all.

Last edited by DDRH; 05-22-2009 at 9:21 AM..
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  #21  
Old 05-22-2009, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravenslair View Post
Shoot, shoot some more, shoot even more. After many sessions and hundreds or thousands of rounds, field strip and wipe down internals and external with CLP. Run a few patches of CLP down the pipe. Run a few dry patches down the pipe. Re-assemble and start all over again.

+1
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  #22  
Old 05-22-2009, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted View Post
Ha. I thought I was the only one that uses KG products.
Noveske and MSTN.biz both recommended KG's stuff, and I figured that they probably know a little about ARs maint.

MSTN:
http://www.mstn.biz/index.php?option...id=7&Itemid=28

Noveske:
http://www.noveskerifleworks.com/barrel_break-in.pdf
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  #23  
Old 05-22-2009, 10:26 AM
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Bore-snake and CLP.
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  #24  
Old 05-22-2009, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darklyte27 View Post
Bootcamp style, with all the yelling and screaming.
+1.... LOL
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